Red Fox

http://www.boomerangtags.com/ Boomerang tags. The plastic ones will last a lifetime, otherwise the s/s collar tags.

Can't access the full article but; http://www.murray-pi...99s-16000-gift/ The shelter was be-quested $16,000 in late 2011.

A test of speed and accuracy through an obstacle course - including.... ? Follow that up with a brief description of what they actually do, ie; the dogs are directed a a high speed by their handlers over jumps, through tunnels, weaves ... etc... top dogs competing from all over the state ...(or country).. People don't want to read an essay, they just want to know what the hell it is

A little brag for me. We had out first IPO trial this weekend. My little Elka is now Nordenstamm Unita BH (and after a last minute entry) TD1!! I'm so proud of her (and myself) for getting out there and giving it a go. Not a bad result either given it was her first go and my first trial ever.

This may be suitable: http://www.topbuy.com.au/tbcart/pc/4-in-1-Dog-Agility-Training-Equipment-Starter-Kit-p186843.htm

Elka, indicating an article This is IPO tracking though..

The dogs must have been extremely close for this to happen? Too close. You need to create more space between your dog and others. Your dog should not be put in the above situation in the first place, expecting a dog to just 'walk away' is unrealistic. Either way, I don't think your dogs behaviour is in any way abnormal given the above situation. I agree with the first part of your response but not the second part. In conjunction with our behaviourist/trainer I've spent the past 6 months teaching my reactive dog to turn or walk away when he's uncomfortable, instead of barking and carrying on. My job is to try and prevent him from being put in situations that are stressful for him in the first place (such as a dog rearing up and pawing at his face) but it's also my job to teach him that barking and lunging isn't an appropriate response and to walk away whenever he is able to. Training your reactive dog to respond appropriately whilst keeping him under threshold is certainly not unrealistic. But expecting a dog to ignore constant badgering (straining on the leash, threatening posture, inappropriate contact - paws on the head and so on as described by the OP) is IMO. In this situation the dog was pushed over threshold and snapped. It happens. Doesn't make the dog a bad dog, or mean that there is anything 'wrong' with him. Just because the dogs behaviour is not desirable (from a human perspective), doesn't make it abnormal.

The dogs must have been extremely close for this to happen? Too close. You need to create more space between your dog and others. Your dog should not be put in the above situation in the first place, expecting a dog to just 'walk away' is unrealistic. Either way, I don't think your dogs behaviour is in any way abnormal given the above situation.

I have watched the news report and listened to the radio interview. One thing I can't fathom though is that why, in a situation that dangerous, with a dog so aggressive that (in her own words 'threw itself against the fence with no warning' and maimed her dog) why would the woman bring her other dog back and stand outside the same fence for a TV interview?

Can you please post a link to this info and chart? I'd like to pass it on to someone. Thanks.

The dog was owner trained. It couldn't have been re-allocated to another blind person. I didn't see that in the article. Where is it? I also wonder whether a 5 year old guide dog would be safe with a new owner, and the previous owner may have known - from experience with the dog - that it would not settle elsewhere. A guide dog would have more connection with its owner than most ordinary dogs. It was in one of the US news reports I saw linked to a facebook page. I can't find the link now but if I do I will post here.

The dog was owner trained. It couldn't have been re-allocated to another blind person.

That is correct. The dog must search each footstep carefully and follow the track accurately to pass. They also must indicate each article cleanly by dropping with the article between the front paws and remaining in position until released be the handler to follow the track again. To give you some further information: Sch1/IPO1/TR1 is a handler laid track, minimum 300 paces, 3 legs, 2 x 90 degree turns and 2 handler scented articles. The track is a minimum of 20 minutes old and the dog has 15 minutes to complete it Sch2/IPO2/TR2 is laid by a stranger, minimum 400 paces, 3 legs, 2 x 90 degree turns and 2 articles scented by the track layer. The track is a minimum of 30 mins old and the dog has 15 minutes to complete it Sch3/IPO3/TR3 is laid by a stranger, minimum 600 paces, 5 legs, 4 x 90 degree turns and 3 articles scented by the track layer. The track is a minimum of 1 hour old and the dog has 20 minutes to complete it. FH1 and FH2 are longer, more complicated and include cross tracks. There are no people to find, only articles and each track always finishes with an article. Scoring is out of 100 points - 79 for maintaining the track, 11 + 10 points for each article (SCH1 and SCH2) A dog can still pass if it tracks well but fails to indicate articles but can only score a 'satisfactory' rating (the lowest passable rating) For SCH and IPO titles the dog also needs to complete and pass their tracking, obedience and protection routine - all within the same trial. It's not hard to teach, it just takes time and patience.

To be honest I didn't think to ask why as I just wanted to get out of there, and didn't look at the meds properly until we were on our way home. Yes, the Ulcyte is for stomach ulcers (which I am doubtful that the dog has - she's 18 months old and has no real symptoms). I am unsure of why the reflux Somac was prescribed though? Does it work in conjuction with the Ulcyte perhaps? To make it more confusing the vet has written 'anti ulcer' on the label of the Somac and told my husband that the Ulcyte is a 'stomach liner'?? However I have now spoken to another vet who has given me some more conservative advice which we will be following.

Are Ulcyte and/or Somac usually prescribed as a precautionary measure for a dog that has had one small bloody vomit and mild lethargy over a period of 24 hours - but no other symptoms of stomach ulcers? Are these medications safe to give in these circumstances? Some background info; she had a few small vomits yesterday afternoon but still bright and alert, gum colour fine, appetite fine and no diarrhoea. No dinner last night. Stood up and vomited what appeared to be blood at 1:30am this morning but still bright and alert, another very small pinkish frothy vomit at an hour later. No vomiting since. She is reasonably bright and active this morning (actually seems pretty much normal), clear eyes, no vomiting, some mild diarrhoea which was a normal colour (no blood), contained grass and was solid toward the end. She has been vet checked, temp is fine, no signs of pancreatitis, appetite is fine and has definitely NOT had access to poisons, medications, chemicals or baits. She has also been given an anti nausea shot along with an antibiotic shot and prescribed with a weeks worth of Amoxyclav. She will be fed a bland diet for the next week also. I am fine with the AB's, bland diet and close observation (I will take her back for blood tests if she doesn't improve within the next day or so), but am not entirely comfortable with giving the Ulcyte and Somac without good reason. This is not my regular vet and I was not overly happy with the consult. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

IPObservations 4 The Helper and Purposes of Protection Dog Training:

100% normal. Same as an overtired toddler throwing a tantrum before bedtime. If 11pm is the time he goes stupid try putting him to bed at 10:30. I bet he'll crash out cold. ;)

Handler Help:

The German Shepherd Curriculum:

An interesting and easy to watch series for anyone who may be interested in IPO (Schutzhund) and the working GSD The Elegance of IPO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugI4P7sS8f4

http://www.flexiusa.com/operation/safety-advice.php CUTS AND BURNS If the cord runs across your skin, it can cause abrasions (like a rope burn) or severe cuts. Cuts and burns are more likely if the cord/tape/belt wraps around any part of the body. Avoid contact with the cord/tape/belt and never let it wrap around any part of your body. Avoid contact with the cord/tape/belt and never let it wrap around any part of your body. Do not allow slack to build up in the cord/tape/belt– you might get tangled in the slack. Do not touch the cord/tape/belt if the cord/tape/belt wraps around you. Turn around or pass the handle from one hand to the other to unwrap yourself. (See “Finger Amputation and Fractures”) If you want to further reduce the risk of cuts and burns, you can wear long sleeves and pants to protect your arms and legs. FINGER AMPUTATION AND FRACTURES If the cord/tape/belt wraps around fingers or catches on a ring, a hard pull on the leash can amputate fingers or break bones. Avoid touching the cord/tape/belt when the leash is attached to your dog and never let the cord/tape/belt wrap around hands or fingers. Do not hold the cord/tape/belt. Do not grab the cord/tape/belt to control your dog. If the cord/tape/belt gets entangled in a bush or other object, gain control of your dog before disentangling it. Do not touch the cord/tape/belt if your dog can pull on it. If you want to further reduce the risk of finger amputation and fractures, you can take off any rings and wear sturdy gloves. EYE AND FACE INJURIES If the leash or your dog’s collar breaks, or if the leash disconnects from your dog’s collar, the cord/tape/belt and hook can snap back with enough force to cause serious eye damage, broken teeth, cuts, and bruises. If the cord/tape/belt is under enough tension, this can happen even when the leash is locked. Follow instructions for inspecting, attaching and detaching the leash in the “Directions” portion of this pamphlet. Tighten the safety collar around your dog’s neck and attach the hook to your dog’s regular collar. The safety collar prevents snap-back if the dog’s collar or the hook breaks, or if the leash disconnects from your dog’s collar. FALLS Because the flexi™ leash is longer than regular leashes, your dog can build up more speed and pull on it harder, possibly pulling you to the ground. If your dog starts running away from you, immediately press the brake button to keep your dog from building up too much speed. If your dog has already built up speed, you will be pulled when you hit the brake or if the dog reaches the end of the leash. Do not allow slack to build up in the cord/tape/belt – your dog may run and build up speed until the slack runs out, suddenly pulling you. Have secure footing. Do not use the leash while on wheels (for example, a bike, skateboard or roller blades). INJURIES TO BYSTANDERS Bystanders are at risk of all of the injuries described in this pamphlet. In particular, they can be cut by the cord/tape/belt if they contact it or if it wraps around them. They might also trip on the leash. Be aware of bystanders. They might not notice the cord/tape/belt. Control your dog and keep the cord/tape/belt away from them. When around other people or animals, shorten the leash and keep your dog at your side with the leash locked. Avoid using the flexi™ leash near small children, including children in strollers. If the cord/tape/belt gets wrapped around someone, tell them not to touch the cord/tape/belt. Gain control of your dog and do not touch the cord/tape/belt if your dog can pull on it. Well that's enough to put me off....

Yep! This. Your dogs diet sounds very similar to mine. We feed VAN mixed with roo along with raw meat on the bone (chicken, lamb, roo or rabbit) as the main diet, plus occasional eggs, fish (sardines or mackerel), left over veg/rice/pasta or offal (hearts/liver). Occasionally they get some lactose free milk as well. Dogs do well on this. VAN mix already contains all the extras that a commercial diet would so no real need to add supplements. No harm adding a bit of omega oil or probiotics if you wish though. There's a big difference in feeding a pup VAN vs your own home-made raw diet. Provided you mix it up according to the directions you can't really stuff it up.

http://www.dogstardaily.com/free-downloads Download these books and read the sections on house training and crate training. It's normal for the pup to scream in the crate if she's not used to it. As long as she has been fed and been taken out to toilet in the past hour ignore it. If she wakes in the night (she will and probably more than once), take her out to toilet on leash, wait until she does (could take 5 seconds or could take half an hour), then put her back in the crate. No fuss, no play and if she squawks (she will) ignore her. During the day you can play crate games with her, feed her in the crate and so in to get her used to it if you wish. At night keep the crate next to your bed. Expect to get woken up a few times a night for the first few weeks. Expect that your pup will decide that 2am is the best time for a play, or that 5am is wake up time. It's normal, it gets better. Something like this may help settle her too http://www.nightcomforter.com.au/puppy-series.php

Lucie Kalocova