Red Fox

Dean and Tyler make one: http://www.dtdogcollars.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DTHUNV

I would think that a vaccinated adult dog is no more likely to bring home parvo than a person is on their shoes. Sure, you need to exercise some common sense, but I'd never keep an adult dog home for weeks on end just because there was a puppy in the house... Personally I believe that early socialisation is critical (you can't wind back the clock) and would be much more concerned with getting the pup out and about than keeping it home and "protected" until 12 weeks. eta: just to clarify, by 'out and about' I don't mean the dog park. But rather exposing (and neutralising) the pup to that which it will encounter in everyday life - kids, traffic, loud noises, strangers, different surfaces, steps, bikes/scooters/skateboards, new/strange/scary objects, birds, cats, etc..

I agree with that, in principle. But I found as I kept walking briskly, not looking back.....suddenly the brake would go on because Angel had sat. However, dogs are individuals & something like keeping up the momentum might work with another dog. I also think our other suggestion about looking into collar settings & types is worthwhile, too. In one of the Cesar Milan programs, he showed how putting the collar up high on a dog's neck made a difference with one uncooperative walker. Yes, I agree with you. Though I do think a no-nonsense, black and white approach is the most effective way of teaching any dog what you want, regardless of the technique used. As with everything consistancy is the key.

You don't stop, you don't slow down and you don't look back. It's much easier to keep a dog 'moving' than it is to budge him once he has glued his butt to the floor. Do you walk your dog using a harness? If so try changing to a collar. If you are not achieving results with a flat collar then a martingale. Personally I'd use a prong collar, but appreciate that not everyone shares the same opinion.

I'd take him to a chiro first just to be sure. If it is purely behavioural (ie, he simply doesn't want to go home) then don't tollerate it. No stopping, no slowing down. If he plonks his butt down you pop the leash and tell him "come on" in a confident, upbeat voice - and continue walking. Every time you slow down, look back, or stop and plead with him you're just re-inforcing the behaviour.

Socialising is only good if it achieves what you want for the dog. A dog that needs to work in any level of distraction is not a dog you want to build a lot of value for other dogs with. A timid dog that will be intimidated by play is not a dog that you would socialise except under very controlled conditions. Some breeds of dogs do not have the temperament to deal well with high levels of socialisation with strange dogs. There are a lot of variables and there is no one size fits all answer to the question of how much and what kind of socialisaition is best. Furthermore the peak socialisation periods (first and second fear period) once, gone cannot be repeated. You're not "socialising" adult dogs when you allow them to play IMO. You're merely reinforcing early socialisation lessons (or not as the case may be). Yes, yes, YES!

A large breed dog grows a lot between 6 and 9 months. Personally I'd be waiting until he is at least 12-18 months before desexing.

It's never too late to start ANY type of training

Yes he could, but if a female on heat is around there is just as much chance of him getting out to her as her getting in to him.;) LOL no, you don't sound like a fruitcake. But if you can fix the fences to prevent dogs getting in it would be a very good thing. For a multitude of reasons, not just bitches on heat. Nope, boy dogs can knock up girl dogs well before they are 12 months.

Thanks Allerzeit I will look into that one.

Can anyone recommend any reasonably priced, dog friendly accomodation in Adelaide? I'm looking for a place close-ish to Wingfield (within a 30 min drive), for 2-3 nights in August or September, that allows dogs inside. So far I'm not having much luck .

What does desexing have to do with it Genuine question... If stray dogs are getting in your yard I wouldn't be allowing your dog out there unsupervised at all - whether he is desexed or not.

She's only a baby and doesn't understand the house rules yet, so it's your job to prevent her from making these mistakes Keep a leash on her in the house, teach her an "off" command (ie, get off the couch, get off the bed, etc) use the leash if you need to. Always re-inforce the behaviour you want. Don't chase her or grab at her as this will only turn it into one big, FUN, game. Crate her when there are strangers in the house and do not let them interact with her until she is calm. Also work on teaching her a "mat" command. Basically a long, relaxed down on her mat/bed. Make the mat the best, most rewarding place to be. Start with very short sessions - getting her to go to the mat, then down on the mat, then add duration, then distraction. It will take some time.

Yep, I'd be doing that. As well well as some very short restrained recalls (only a few metres so he's not running) Recalls on 15ft long line - let him wander to the end of the line, then call him back to you. The long line will prevent him from running riot and you can slowly add distraction to the mix. Recalls around the house - call him from a seperate room, etc

.double post

The link worked for me? But here is one directly to the website http://www.whelpings...iewCat&catId=40 ETA Oh, just realised that you don't have enough posts to access OT which is why the linky wont work for you.

We have the same and just extended ours from 4.5ft to 6ft. My BIL who is a builder by trade did it for us but it was pretty simple - pre-cut panels bolted onto the existing fence. Took them a few hours and cost just over $200. I can take a pic for you if you like? ETA pics: The bottom line of bolts are where the top rail of the fence is, the ones above are to secure it I think? It's very sturdy anyway. Oh and capping the top of fence will prevent the dog cutting itself.

Yes. Large crates are a major PITA to lug from room to room on a daily basis. They don't fit through doorways to well either. Personally I don't think $70 is much to spend at all considering the grief it will save you. Actually, $70 is damn cheap! I won't tell you what my c-crates cost me. A spare crate can always be resold or donated if you find you don't need it later on. A puppy pen is another option.

Deer antler chews may be suitable? http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/206202-deer-antler-bone/ Sounds like she needs more of an outlet for her energy though...

Vebopet sell plastic flooring for runs http://shop.vebopet.com.au/store/plastic-floor-boards-for-dog-run-play-pen.html No idea what it's like though?

I'm going to try this with the next Pug I meet (...just to make absolutely sure).

^^This LLW and formal heeling are two completely different exercises. Both need to be taught seperately and (IMO) in very different ways. Dragging your pup around on a correction collar yelling "heel, heel, HEEL" is only going to poison the command and if you decide you want to teach a nice competition heel later on down the track then you may have to re-train it. What do you want out of your dog? Do you plan on trialling later on or do you just want a well behaved pet? You could always try discussing your aims with the instructor and/or working your dog on the outside of the class until you are ready to join. (Though sadly plenty of clubs take the my way or the highway approach unfortuantely). It sounds like what you are doing (at home) is working out nicely for you though? If so keep at it, working on slowly adding higher and higher levels of distraction and duration before taking it back to class?

errrrr.... one in the loungeroom, one in the kitchen, one beside the bed and one in the car. I have a few! When we only had one it was kept beside the bed. Mine are 36" and 42" sized.

Packing tape. Nothing else compares

Some dogs are more challenging than others, some kids are more challenging than others. And as with everything some stages in life are more challenging than others. Right now it's school holidays and I'm starting to think I've failed miserably at both. 12 year old son is getting an hours walk in the morning, another hour and a half in the evening and time to scooter around in between while I train the dog, a good 2 hours a day at the skate park with friends, plus a bizzillion other things to keep him busy and he's STILL 'bored' with attitude to spare. Add to that my 10 year old niece who talks/sings/jumps around non stop - even in her sleep and spends a good part of her holidays hanging out here too! ...meanwhile, the dog is absolutely exhausted. I say 'walkies' and he hides under the doona Some people struggle with high drive dogs. Try having high drive kids!!! As to which is easier? As far as I'm aware it's still not legal to crate your children.;)