Red Fox

I really like these but they're not cheap I wonder if some pvc pipe on a string above the fence would work in a similar way though?

Have you read 'triangle of temptation' posted at the top of the training thread? That will solve your problem. As far as taking treats gently you need to learn to hold the treat and present it to the dog with a flat hand. If you plan on using food as a reward you want the dog to dive in and grab it with energy - not take it gingerly from your hand. You also want to avoid getting bitten! The trick is to pin the food in the groove between your index and middle finger and hold in place with your thumb. The dog can press against your hand but cant snatch it. Then you simply remove your thumb and open your hand up flat when you reward the dog. It does take practice though. Another option is to toss the treat and have the dog catch it.

I wouldn't be panicking just yet. You've only paid $100. Give it another week and see what happens, there could be many reasons why a breeder with a litter of puppies on the ground may be too busy to get back to you within the week.

When I am talking about getting the best out of your dog, I am not saying the dog needs to remain in drive or something for that to be the 'best'. IMO it is about the attitude we take to training anything with our dogs, in my mind it doesn't matter what you are training, you should be trying to use the methods that suit your dog the best and get the best out of them. Having a dog that can remain calm and well behaved in every day situations is still part of getting the best out of your dog, IMO. And you don't think you can get the best out of your dog with Koehler LLW techniques? (or perhaps a slightly modified version there-of)? I'm not having a dig Huski, just curious.

How old is your pup? 'The focussed puppy' is a good starting point for a young dog http://www.agilityclick.com/prod53.htm 'Training in Drive' Dildei and Booth http://dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=DGT151 for an older dog. Also have a look at Leerburg on demand. Heaps of free vids http://leerburg.com/flix/category.php?categoryid=30 The Ellis stuff is well worth a watch http://leerburg.com/flix/category.php?categoryid=10 There are free eBooks too http://leerburg.com/dogtrainingebooks.htm I still think Koehler is worth a read for the leash walking. You can take what you need and disregard the rest. Hope that helps

What makes you assume that my training goal is specifically or solely aimed at competition? If you want to train specifically to win competition then fine. The dog in that video was not trained specifically or solely for competition. It doens't matter what you are aiming for, shouldn't you always want to get the best out of your dog? Yes it does. You're talking about two different things ;) With LLW you're aiming for a calm, almost indifferent dog. One that is paying attention to the handler but not 'engaging' or animated so to speak. With comp heelwork you want animated, focussed ALIVE! Can't get that with Koehler but you can train a LLW reliably with his method. JMO.

Crate train your dog, when she's out of the crate keep her on leash. If she has a bit of prey drive she is going to chase the cat. Manage it. Dog run, or fence off a section of the yard. Add her toys / bones / sand-pit / pool, whatever you need to keep her busy. Puppies chew. Puppies pull washing off the line. It's normal. Again - manage it. Puppies listen about as well as toddlers ;) Time and patience With the jumping you need to teach her a default behaviour. Sitting or all four feet on the ground. Reward the behaviour you want and ignore and/or punish/correct that which you don't want. 'Punishment' can be as simple as withdrawing a treat or attention, it doesn't need to be physical. And be consistant. When visitors come crate her and ask that they follow you routine. If they can't she stays in her crate. The chewing is a management issue. Your problem, not the dogs. If you don't want he to chew it don't allow her access to it. That's your problem right there ;) Command - compliance - reward OR command - non-compliance - correction - compliance - reward. NOT command - command - command - compliance. A puppy cannot focus for long periods of time and needs to be frequetly rewarded. So you tell her to go to her bed, she goes, you reward. She stays on her bed for 3 seconds, you reward. She gets off, you put her back and reward. You can't send her there and expect her to understand she has to stay there indefinitely at that age.

In my experience most children do ask. It's the adults that seem to think they can do what they like ;) .

My dog was under two coaches and one behaviorist. I think it is a decent effort. Your last sentence basically summarises it. That's why I am doing my own research so I can filter out incompetent trainers for whom being politically correct is more important than getting results. And so you should. These threads do my head in. My advice to you Ursus is to read up as much as you can on different methods and pick the one that suits your dog. Choose a trainer whom you trust and are 100% comfortable with - regardless of what method they use. Every dog is different, just like every child is different. Some dogs need to be motivated, some need to be calmed, some can cope with harsh training methods, others will react by either shutting down or comming up the leash at you. Hard, soft, low drive, high drive... it's all relative. If you're in NSW Steve Courtney would be your best bet. Very experienced trainer, very balanced in his approach and lovely guy. http://www.k9pro.com.au/pages/How-to-Contact-Us.html Shoot him an email, he would be better placed to answer your questions than anyone here. And best of luck with your new pup. Everyone else, get your knickers out of a knot. No one is forcing the OP to use Koehler, or Michael Ellis or Susan Garrett for that matter. They are only suggestions. Each to their own, grow up...

And who's choice was that? Could you not have taken the dog to see someone else? Chasing and biting is prey drive - normal. Pulling on leash (unless the dog has been taught otherwise) is also normal. Playing rough with other dogs is normal too for some dogs and pretty easily fixed - you just don't allow it. I'm not sure which behaviourist you saw but they sound pretty damn useless to me.

If you don't want people to pat your pup don't let them, walk away and forget about it. If they insist or attemp it anyway "Sorry, he's a working pup and isn't allowed to interact with strangers/dogs/whatever at this point in his training". Scoop him up, turn you back and go. Works fine for me

What if you ran a ping string around the bottom of the fence to stop him getting close enough to climb it?

Mine will get the wrapping paper ...and maybe a nice big bone each to keep them busy for the afternoon. Every day is Christmas for them!

We'd probably be healthier if we did..;) I feed my 3 year old dog once per day and if not training (we use food) he gets a small biscuit in the morning too. He tends to throw up on an empty stomach, always has, so I don't fast him. Up until about a year ago he was fed smaller meals twice per day. My 12 week old pup gets fed twice per day plus 2-3 training sessions using food and a Kong at bed time. Most days she gets a roo bone to chew on in her run too. She's a little fatty and seems to do better if kept slightly hungry so I probably will fast her for a day here and there when she's older.

Yep. Just as annoying are those people who feel it's okay to stick their hands in your dogs face because he/she 'looks friendly' and so must want attention. And I see nothing wrong with picking a pup or smaller dog up when a 'friendly' dog approaches. Provided you're not running around with fluffy above your head squealing what's the problem?

Kei Six weeks three years

I needed a few things but not a lot; crate, pen, puppy food, extra food/water bowls, collar, harness, collar tag, pavers for the dog run (which we already had), 11-22kg Interceptor. Leashes, toys, tugs, blankets/bedding, grooming gear, etc we already had plenty of.

But I couldn't find "Midget" listed in any of the groups..;)

Toys; Miniature Pinscher Terriers; JRT, SBT Gundogs; GSP, Irish Setter, Curly Coated Retriever Hound; Rhodesian Ridgeback, Greyhound, Deerhound Working; Malinois, Dutch Shepherd, Kelpie, GSD ** and Midget BC's :p Utility; Dobermann, Rottweiler Non Sporting; Dalmation, Mini Poodle

Yep, have to agree with that. I always thought I'd bring home a second pup six months after the first. It ended up being three years and even that is a bit close. All I can say is thank God for a toilet trained, crate trained, mature dog with manners. One nutty pup is enough! ...but then I bought a Malinois so must delight in self torture.

Hilarious... but disturbing Personally I don't think an add like that would pursuade many pet owners to desex their animals. However I do think it will raise a lot of money towards desexing animals in shelters (based on the novelty factor alone), which is not a bad thing at all.

I recently bought a couple of crates from Vebopet too (42" and 36"). Decent quality and the price is pretty good. ETA link http://shop.vebopet.com.au/store/xlarge-42-collapsible-metal-pet-dog-cage-crate.html

The focussed puppy is a good book I've read the Dunbar books and there is a lot in there that I (personally) disagree with, particularly allowing random people and dogs interact with your puppy. My 12 week old pup would easily have 'met' 100 people. Have 100 people touched her, fed her and come to my house? No bloody way! I'm with Huski on neutralisation. Have a look here http://leerburg.com/flix/player.php?id=727

Vaccines are usually given at 6-8 weeks (C3), 12-14 weeks (C3 or C5) and 16-18 weeks (C3 or C5). There is also the option of the Nobivac vacc that is given at 6 and 10 weeks of age instead. Worming, usually every 2 weeks until 8 weeks of age (breeder should have done this), then again at 12 weeks, then every 3 months (or as necessary) - unless you are giving an all in one heartworm/intestinal worming combo, then it is given monthly (or every 6 weeks). Heartworm treatment begins at around 12 weeks and is given either monthly (chews or spot-ons) or daily (tablets). Don't treat for fleas unless you have them. Interceptor is a good 'all in one' product. It does all intestinal worms and heartworm, Sentinal does all of the above plus fleas. If you're in a paralysis tick area you will need a something for this too (frontline plus or advantix), if not don't worry about it. I personally disagree with keeping a pup home until all vaccs are complete, however you wouldn't want to take it into an area frequented by other dogs (ie a dog park) prior to a couple of weeks after the second vacc. Your vet will probably tell you to keep the dog home until 10 days after the last vacc.. Hope that helps

Give her things she can destroy and chew up, Cardboard boxes are good, bones, a motorbike tyre, even a small-ish tree branch. If you don't want to contain her to a run you could always section off a large area of the yard for her so that she cannot get to your BBQ or outdoor furniture. Does she like food? If so there are multitudes of options to keep her busy besides Kongs - treats inside a box / cardboard roll / bottle / home alone toy..