Red Fox

Pffffft, over it. If you feed your dogs dry then you are poisoning them with rubbish. If you feed your dogs raw then they will surely choke and die, or end up with salmonella and infect your children or better yet get a taste for blood and eat you in your sleep. Better not feed your dogs at all, very dangerous that.... Personally dry food does my head in and it's easier for me to feed raw. Works for the dogs, works for me. Others would be the complete opposite and that's fine by me.

Most butchers will mince up wings (or whatever else you like), bones and all for no extra cost. Just order what you would normally feed but have it minced up.

It's so Elka http://www.petcentric.com/Find-A-Pet/Dog-Breed-Library/Belgian-Malinois.aspx

Yes. Harness for C work/drive building, collar for obedience and tracking. There are times I want my dog to pull into the harness At the end of the day it depends on what you are training for and what you want out of the dog. The OP was asking about loose lease walking though, not SchH training. The solution for her dog will be different again... If all a person wants is to be able to walk their pet dog down the street comfortably and doesn't care for off leash control then a front attach harness may be the solution for them? But this is not training a dog to walk on a loose leash either.

Out of curiosity LMSW, how long was your leash and why was the pup hitting the end of it so hard? He was hitting it so hard because thats how he does everything in life. When he wanted to go somewhere, to someone, or a dog, or a leaf that happened to be on the ground he just ran for it. I would clip a leash on to take him out of his crate at 3am, he would wake up, try to sprint off, hit the end of the leash and spin in the air. Then land and try and do it again. If I held him on a short leash or by the collar he would just strain against it, coughing and choking. Enthusiasm, he has it. Lol. I didn't think of the consequences of it until I noticed his throat was tender and he was coughing. This was varying leashes so not set length. Never a long line though. Okay, I understand where you are coming from. However is that not a training problem as opposed to a training tool problem? ie the pup does not yet understand the limits of the leash and how to direct his energy. I realise this was not directed at me but relates to the above. My Malinois pup reacted in a similar way first time on a leash and collar at 8 weeks - like a fish thrashing about on the end of a line LOL. So yes, I know where you are coming from. My solution to that was to put her on a harness initially to move her about, but to do her obedience work using a flat collar and leash. She has fast learnt, in a reasonably gentle way, that the leash has a limit and how to channel all that enthusiasm back into something useful. At four months old she'll still pull like mad when she becomes overstimulated, but I can easily redirect that energy straight back into focus on me and/or heel-work on command.

Oh okay. I didn't realise that they would ship to Australia.

Out of curiosity LMSW, how long was your leash and why was the pup hitting the end of it so hard?

Looks great, but that link is a US website

Yes. I have met the breeder and several dogs from Kovacs. Very nice.

I wouldn't...

Bobby, I've no experience personally but do know of a breeder in SA with some nice Czech line dogs. http://www.izilop.com/

Nuh uh, my dog is clearly the most awesomesauceness. Forget your working dogs, throw a donut in those rocks and my beagle would fetch the shit out of it :laugh: :laugh: Huski, I think fetching entails actually returning the object uneaten

Jacqui, are you still training at ASC? I'm guessing you're referring to Kian? Awesome dog, very similar lines to my pup (actually he's a litter brother to her mother, Kastra). In answer to your question I do think crating can help with training. You can use it to socially isolate the dog from you for a period before and after training (ie making it very black and white for the dog). You can use it to allow the dog to ramp up before training -without eating your car!- and to process thought after a training session. (Which IMO speeds up the learning process). If you plan on competing later down the track you will find a crate useful as there is a lot of waiting around for the dog.

How wide is that doorway LizT and where did you get our gate from? I'm looking for something similar (but perhaps a little taller) to fit a space 150cm wide

Toothmarks in the wall add character.... Honest And I am sure no one would notice bits of skirting board missing lmao Less to paint later. True...

I'd challenge anyone to survive a day with my Mal pup without a crate/pen/run. If I was to leave her to her in the bathroom whist I went out for an hour or so she'd probably renovate it with her mouth.

I would never give my dog the heartworm injection. Interceptor (monthly chew) is cheap, covers heartworm and all intestinal worms. http://www.pets.novartis.com.au/dogs/interceptorSpectrum.html Mosquito repellent for dogs: http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/BUZZO75 http://shop.rufusandcoco.com.au/p-28-bug-off.aspx Advantix also does mozzies http://www.bayeranimal.com.au/default.aspx?Page=50&ItemId=14

1. Check chains used properly work well. Always have, always will. They are not and never have been a 'fad'. 2. Some dogs do well on RC, some dogs don't. No different to any other food really? 3. You do not need to use "50 million supplements" if you feed raw. Like vitamins for humans, they are an optional extra... 4. Crate training may have gained more popularity in recent years (in Australia) but it is not new, nor is it a fad. If you want to talk fads, how about puppy pre-schools, head collars and "purely positive" training?

For sure! I don't really worry too much about training lots of commands with pups, I would personally put more priority on having a pup that engages well with me, that has fun with me and the rewards I offer, that has good durable focus etc. I don't really care about having a pup that can do lots of things if I don't have the relationship and engagement I want with them. Basic manners in the house, crate training, toilet training, how to be calm and 'off' and up 'on' when I want are the other things I'd also have at the top of my list. This Once you have good engagement everything else is easy.

http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/#

Plastic bottles and milk cartons, toilet rolls, newspapers, bones and branches ripped off the rosemary bush top the list here. Along with the Kongs and the wobbler. Kyjen toys are also pretty good. The dogs seem to like those best, something about the shape I think. Be wary of cheap imported dog toys or soft toys designed for kids. I was warned by a friend that some can contain materials that are toxic for dogs.

Thank you for the responses. I have passed on the info. Hence the reason for asking about average price. Puppies advertised here at $2000+ has them looking at BYBs instead.

Could anyone please tell me what the average cost for a well bred Stafford pup on limited register is? And any recommendations for a breeder within SA. Asking on behalf of a family member. Thank you

OT but I noticed that Cheap as Chips has also reduced the price on their large plastic airline style crates to $50 if anyone was looking for one PET CARRIER X-LARGE 82X57X66CM http://www.cheapaschips.com.au/showproduct.asp?sk=BA9520

Agree with dancinbcs. I took my oldest dog to puppy pre-school and would never EVER do it again. It ruined him. Pull your pup out and continue on with what you were doing beforehand, which sounds like a much more sensible approach to socialisation. Dogs no not 'need' to play with other dogs. The vet nurse sounds like an idiot.