Red Fox

http://blogs.dogster...operty/2011/04/ Picture this – it's a lovely day, and you are relaxing at a local park, having a picnic with your family. A well-dressed lady you've never met before with a large smile on her face exits her car. She automatically lays eyes on your family and begins staring. Slowly, she moves toward you, speaking gibberish and making baby talk, googly eyes, and grabby hands. She begins touching your children, grabbing their cheeks. She grabs one by the face, moves her face to within inches of baby Tommy's, staring directly into his eyes and smiling. She grabs your husband by the ears, sits on his lap, and firmly plants her lips on his mouth. She gives you a little squeeze on the rump, hugs you tightly, and scratches your 8 year old's head. Nearby stands your 3 year old nephew, she quickly grabs his shoulders firmly and begins applying downward pressure, while saying, "SIT! SIT! SIT!" What if she then spied your lovely new Coach purse on the picnic blanket and decided to throw it over her shoulder, cavalierly? "Oh, I really like this purse!" She then removed your keys, approached your car, and drove off with your credit cards. OK, at what point during these events did you call the police? If anyone did this to you or your family, you would think they were socially defunct and may need to be removed from polite society. Would you, at any point in this interaction, have acted "aggressively" by telling her to go away? Would you have left the park? What would you have done if you asked her to go away and she continued to harass your family? This story seems absurd, like something out of a hidden camera show. Sadly, this is not science fiction but an every day way-of-life for many dogs. In the eyes of the law, dogs are considered the "private property" of the owner. Society apparently did not get the proverbial memo, so many people assume, "all dogs are for me to touch." Many have excuses like, "I LOVE dogs!" which they think gives them a free pass to wander our communities, groping any dog that comes into their contact. Yes, folks, there are serial dog gropers in your community. No other private property that I'm aware of is considered "free access" to the community. You can't just move into someone's house, take their purse or car, or abscond with a cell phone just because you like it. You can't pick up someone's kid and hug them just because the kid is cute. You can't snatch up someone's picnic basket because you happen to like organic chicken salad wraps, Petit Noir, deviled eggs and fresh fruit. Yet somehow, when it's a cute dog, it's a free-f0r-all. Dogs are approached without owners being asked, and are subjected to all kinds of things that dogs don't like (more on this in a later entry), and are expected to just deal with it. If owners ask for their dog to be left alone, they're looked at as if they are some sort of green, three-eyed monster with a serious attitude problem. For dogs, the rules seem to be: Someone steps on your tail? Deal with it. Stranger steals your favorite toy? Too bad, so sad! Have arthritis and someone pushes down on your rear, causing intense pain? Deal with it. Want to have a nice outing with your best friend without being disturbed by strangers? Tough. Don't like to be molested by strangers? Too bad, sit there and take it. I guess the question must be: are dogs ever allowed to have opinions? Do we really expect them to welcome every type of social interaction, all the time, in any circumstance? Do we expect them to tolerate pain, social pressure, and molestation? In the comments on the article I mentioned yesterday, a number of people said something to the effect of, "if a dog is out in public, I assume it is friendly and that I am welcome to touch it." Really? Where did this sense of entitlement come from? As citizens, we are allowed to protect our homes and property. We are entitled to legal protection if someone threatens the safety of our family, tries to break into our cars, homes, or bank accounts. Why are dogs, which unlike all of these other material possessions, have feelings, opinions, and comfort levels, the only "personal property" we have that is subject to being assaulted by community members without recourse? When will we realize that many actions which humans think are friendly (more on this later, too) are perceived as active acts of aggression by "man's best friend?" The moral of the story is – my dogs are MY dogs. We may be out in public, but that does not entitle you to touch them or force yourself upon them. I have the right to say, "leave my dog alone," just as much as I have the right to say, "keep your hands out of my wallet or undergarments." Mokie, my Chow mix, really doesn't like being touched by strangers. She tolerates it, but does not enjoy it, and looks at me the entire time as if to say, "I'll get something for this, right?" Sometimes, she just wants to go for a walk and NOT be touched by every stranger along the path – in the past, I've had to resort to telling people "She bites," (she never has) just so we can go on a peaceful walk. Why have I done this? Because people try to grab her without even asking or proceed to try to grab her after I ask that we be left alone. She shouldn't be forced into situations which make her uncomfortable, she's my friend and it's my job to help her feel safe. Cuba, my Saint Bernard puppy, is a teenager and does like to be touched but needs reminders on his manners frequently, so if you want to pet him, you may need to wait a few minutes while I make sure that he is standing at my side, on a loose leash, and not pulling to meet you. So if you want to greet someone's dog, ask; and whatever their answer is, respect it and don't take it personally because it's not intended in that manner. Most dog owners are not indiscriminate jerks, and if a person says, "no," there is likely a reason – the dog doesn't feel comfortable being touched by strangers, the person is in a hurry, the dog is working, the dog is in training, the dog may bite you. Dog owners are private property owners: if we treated dogs with the same respect we treated a Coach handbag, a lot fewer people would be bitten, dogs euthanized, and dog owners forced to deal with the stress of judgment for securing their dog's physical and mental well-being. Dogs Are Not Public Property. Groping a stranger's dog is like groping a stranger's wife – just NOT. COOL.

I bought my dogs for me, they are my commitment (and they are a big one!). So while the rest of the family does have some minor input they are not really 'involved'. Personally I do not agree with 'buying a dog for the kids'. Just like I would never advocate that someone have a baby to give their child a playmate. Eventually the novelty wears off. There is so much more to consider...

Flat collar usually. But the dogs aren't running full pelt to the end of it and getting flung around. Rather it's a back up used when training in case they lose focus and decide to take a detour. I do use a long line connected to a harness when I take my pup swimming though.

I just let it drag behind the dog, then if you need to block them you step on it. From previous experience, tying it around your waist is not a good idea if you have a large dog - they go, you go . With a smaller dog <10kg it might be okay? Still not great for your back though.

So . . . you say . . . a farm family with some good herding dogs (say, a lot of kelpie blood but purity questionable) should not be able to breed from their working stock? I'm all for pedigree dogs. But I think there are all sorts of measures by which a dog or bitch might be found exceptional and worth breeding from. I don't think the KC's and show rings should have a monopoly on this. I don't like having a beauty show determine what constitutes a 'good dog'. Some people, including many people with degrees in genetics, prefer cross breeds. It's a moot point, though. The force (of public opinion) would not be with the KC's if they tried to push for desexing of all non-registered dogs. A dogs working ability should be as much as measure of it's worth as a show title (and IMO it is sometimes much, much more important depending on what the dog is being bred for - no point having a pretty farm dog that can't work). However health is just as important, as is the knowledge and understanding of what you are producing and why. The vast majority of BYBs have no idea of what they are putting together and no purpose beyond producing 'nice' pups for their friends or making a few $$. Sorry, that is not a good enough reason. No one is going to be recovering anything from these dogs, they have little to offer. Farm bred dogs and unregistered working dogs are a different matter altogether. Including those of questionable purity .

They are on the website. Most dogs would be fine with the standard one (and it's much easier to on your hands), however the lighter line is good for very small dogs and transitioning to off leash work IMO. And ALWAYS wear shoes. Stupid me decided to train barefoot yesterday. Puppy line running through the toes is not nice

A standard tracking line is 33ft, shorter long line 15ft. http://www.k9pro.com.au/categories/Long-Lines/ OP, I wouldn't be allowing a dog off leash until you've proofed recall 100% under distraction. Use a long line and/or a fenced area to do that. No 4 month old pup is going to be 100% reliable..

You need a better quality pen. Try something like this: http://shop.vebopet.com.au/store/pet-dog-exercise-pen-run-kennel-enclosure.html

It really depends on why she is barking. If the pup is distressed / scared / lonely you really need to re-assure her. Try putting your mattress on the floor for a few nights and either have the crate next to you where she can see you or put her on the mattress with you then gradually back to the crate as she gains more confidence. Or, if she's like my Mal pup and just being a bitch (I have been woken up many a night at 2am because she wants to do something NOW!!), then I'd be inclined to (quietly and in a very boring way) take her out for a drink and a pee, then calmly put her back in the crate with something to chew on, throw a towel over the top and put a pillow over your head until she shuts up. Trust me - it will only get worse if you give in. Forget about what your neighbours think, your dog is inside and you are dealing with it. Though if she's not eating her pigs ear and working herself up to the point of vomiting then it sounds like she is distressed and you are going to need to work out why. Could be as simple as she is just too hot.

Is she wearing an ID tag? Is it possible that someone may have taken her in for the night? Hope she's home soon.

I'd be more worried about the carpark than the clinic floor. Mine usually stay in the car until the vet is ready to see them. Carried in for initial vet check at 8 weeks and 12 week vaccs (then on the floor once inside), after that they walk in on leash.

This is the confusing part. How do you decide when or whether to re-vaccinate the dog if the titer results come back insufficient 12 months or 3 years down the track? Your question is also what I'm confused about This is why it is best if the Titre is done at about 2 weeks after vaccination. Because during that time, bloods would still show the antibodies created in response to the vaccine introduced disease/s. This means sero-conversion has occurred - the body has developed a recognition of the diseases. If no anti-bodies were present at that time, I'd be concerned sero-conversion had not occurred (ie the body did not respond to the vaccine and that my dog's body was not as properly prepared to send anti-bodies to the rescue should contact with the disease/s occur). If you Titre test beyond two weeks, perhaps the test will show negative, but that is not proof that sero-conversion has not taken place. It's always pleasing when the titre shows anti-bodies, but that doesn't necessarily mean the anti-bodies are present just because of the vaccine - it might be that the dog has been exposed to the diseases, so the anti-bodies have revved into action as a means to fighting off the diseases before they take hold. I trust what I have read (Dr Jean Dodds articles are very helpful, along with posts by forum members Staranais and Rappie [Vets], amongst others) and been advised and that if my dog was exposed to any of the said diseases, antibodies to the diseases would be readily re-created and released into the blood stream to attack the diseases. I think that if I lived in an area where the diseases were rampant, perhaps I might re-vaccinate if the titre showed no antibodies (which would indicate my dog had not been exposed to the diseases in more recent times and consequently exist in cell-memory, not immediately in the blood stream) but that's something I would and will decide when and if the time comes (which I hope it doesn't). But when and if I need to make that decision, I will also take into account the current health status of my dog and determine the greater risk chance : (a) that my dog's system will suffer as a result of the vaccine chemicals being introduced to his body or (b) that my dog will pick up one of the 3 core diseases. I am not as concerned about canine cough - not to suggest the condition should be disregarded if it is contracted. I'm not a Vet but this is how I understand it. Thank you for the info Erny. It would be much easier if vets were all on the same page regarding this. The majority (mine included) seem to recommend yearly titers and revacc if antibody levels are 'too low' (not non-existent). But re-vaccinating may well be unnecessary, even if the dog is showing low levels?

Gribbles pathology: http://www.gribblesvets.com/info/general/Home/get/0/0/ From my (limited) understanding if the bloods go directly to Vetpath in WA (rather than through Gribbles) the cost is much lower. However the vet must have an account with Vetpath to do so. I believe that the Hepatitis test needs to be sent o/s regardless. Either UK or Jean Dodds in USA.

I have one of those, it had very little effect on the water that gets dribbled after Lexi has a drink I have one too. My Ridgeback never spills a drop out of it and it's great for travelling with him. The crazy Mali pup on the other hand takes a mouthful then runs off at lightening speed with water flying out of her mouth in all directions. Either that or she just spits it all in my lap. No time to actually swallow it! She also takes great delight in dragging it to her bed and turning it upside down. Water not coming out? No worries, you just roll it on it's side a bit, let the water pool in the corner then flip it. Awsome! :rolleyes: How one small pup can empty a 'no spill' bowl in less than 10 seconds is beyond me!

This might help you: http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/203044-cost-of-breeding/page__hl__cost probably a little late for this one: http://www.woodhavenlabs.com/breeding/breeder2.html

I paid over $260 for titers, no other choice here unfortunately, our vet sends the bloods to Gribbles. C3 at 7 weeks (breeders vet - no reaction that I am aware of), C5 at 12 & 16 weeks (reaction to both), C3 at 17 months (no reaction), titer test 18 months later. The results came back with insufficient immunity for parvo. Erny: This is the confusing part. How do you decide when or whether to re-vaccinate the dog if the titer results come back insufficient 12 months or 3 years down the track?

I recently watched a Bart Bellon vid where he explains how he uses a 3 sided box as a physical barrier to teach the dog a perfect front and finish - "Parking the dog in the garage" From there he progresses to two stakes in the ground to guide the dog in, thn eventually to an "invisible electric barrier" (the e-collar). The box/barrier idea might be worth considering.

german_shep_fan, I'm a little confused by your posts. Why would you choose a BYB GSD over a registered working line Shepherd?

Mine get IHP dairy free powder. About half a teaspoon sprinkled on their meals each night.

Try these: http://www.boomerangtags.com/collartags.php They don't scratch, last forever and are not expensive. Postage to Australia is $2 and normally takes about 10 days.

Didn't it .

Correct. But the OP is a light hearted dig at BSL, not an in depth discussion on behavioural problems. However you originally stated: Which is not true. Real aggression does have a genetic component. It's not something that you commonly see in pet dogs, nor would you want to. In the right dog it can be an asset, in the wrong dog and in the wrong hands it is a liability.

Regardless of who is at 'fault' you don't turn and walk away from someone who is obviously injured. Particularly if your dog that caused the injury... Poor woman. I hope she is okay.

There most certainly is a genetic component. Which is why temperament in breeding dogs is so important, and why some dogs are more suited to certain jobs than others. And then sometimes things just go wrong and you end up with a dog with poor nerve, fear aggression, dog aggression, etc. But that is not what this thread is about..

http://www.totaldog.co.uk/dog-articles/talking-points/most-dangerous-dogs/ Revealed: The 5 Most Dangerous Dogs In The World! Posted on 09 April 2011 by admin Email Undoubtedly it’s going to be controversial. Without fear of chicken counting, it will receive a lot of traffic. And without any element of doubt, it might cause ripples but it needs to be out there, for the public to know. We’ve decided to publicly name the five MOST dangerous dogs on the planet. The Most Dangerous Dogs in the World in reverse order: 5. Badly fed dog. Badly fed dog is the animal who’s been fuelled up with a diet fit for an Olympic weight lifter, but who only ever gets to expend about 20% of the calories he takes in. He’s got lots of energy and his mismatched diet can manifest in bouts of sudden energetic rampaging. Badly fed dog would ask you to consider; how you would feel spending your day in an office when every inch of your body is throbbing and twitching as you crave the opportunity to actually use up some of those excess calories. Badly fed dog would be happier and safer if his diet reflected his lifestyle. 4. Never had any friends dog. Otherwise known as ‘totally under socialised dog’. He was a little naughty when he was a puppy, so his owner decided he’d be better off being kept away from all other forms of animal life. He now spends his days obsessing over what it would be like to chase other dogs around and, by George, one of these days he’s gonna actually do it! Never had any friends dog is going to present his owner with a lifetime of problems, he has no social skills and has never had a chance to learn natural interaction through the teachings of his own kind. He’ll meet new dogs and will be about as socially adept as a 45-year old virgin at a Playboy mansion party. He’s going to blow it. Big time. 3. Shouty. Shouty is the dog who has spent most of his life shouting at folks or being shouted at himself. He sees people on his street, he shouts at them. In turn, his owner shouts at him. Shouty presumes being shouted at is a recognition of his excellent work. In fact, hearing his owner shouting in response to his own shouting encourages his assumption that they’re just as upset, anxious, nervous, angry as HE is about the audacity of other people/dogs/pigeons to walk past his window. Shouty is relentlessly encouraged and endorsed in his shouty behaviour and, a bit like no friends dog, shouty spends his days imaging how good it will be when he FINALLY gets his chance to get face to face with the objects of his ire. 2. House proud. House proud dog is SO touchy about people coming to his digs unannounced, he’ll happily maim you for your insolence in trying to visit his abode without obtaining the correct visitation paperwork. House proud dog does a line in dishing out injuries to posties, meter readers and delivery people. Fortunately for house proud dog, his owners absolutely REFUSE to believe he is capable of violence, so leave him completely unattended to dish out his own brand of justice to anyone brash enough to consider entering his domain. 1. Spoilt dog. “That’s mine and these are mine, those are mine, I’m entitled to that, I believe that I saw that first, I lay claim to those, I own all of these, I’m the rightful proprietor of this…” Welcome to the world of spoilt dog. Quite simply, he believes everything he wants, he can have. Woe betide anyone to tell him differently. His timid owners have never had the heart to let him know that in the human world, simply showing your teeth and growling doesn’t constitute a legal contract on the ownership of goods. They let him off and, worse, they let him keep his spoils, which he’ll gather up and place in his own corner of the world. Sadly, spoilt dog is, one day, going to meet someone who is unaware that he has previously laid claim to every possession on earth. Unfortunately, unlike spoilt dog’s owners, this person is going to have to find out the hard way just how deep spoilt dog’s sense of entitlement runs. Really hard luck if it happens to be a youngster, blissfully ignorant to the fact that the shiny ball on the floor is spoilt dog’s most prized possession (at that VERY moment). A few stitches and a spell in hospital ought to serve as a permanent reminder though. [What? You didn't think there was a such a thing as a list of 'dangerous dog breeds' did you? Pffft.] PS: End bsl. You know it makes sense.