Red Fox

If they won't remove the dog from the chew-able items or the items from the dog they aren't going to solve the problem. Suggest a smaller fenced off section (with beds/kennels and toys) inside of the back yard for sleeping instead of a dog run and see if that is less 'cruel'.

Uncle Albers or Great Barko http://www.lauckemills.com.au/dogfood.html Failing that Bonnie or Supercoat. Raw may work out just as cheap though.

Congratulations Dyzney!!

I'd not want to be seated next to a baby on an international flight either. It's a long trip, babies cry, they crap in their nappies, sometimes they throw up... sorry.... And if the woman had specifically requested not to be seated next to a child she should expect that the request be honoured. JMO. Personally, I have 2 dogs one kid and 10 nieces and nephews. I don't particularly like kids nor do I don't hate them, they just have no real appeal to me and having to deal with other peoples children (particularly babies / toddlers) is a hassle that I could do without.. I don't view / treat my dogs as 'kids' either. They are dogs.

Raw food can be very good if you know what you are doing. With a large, fast growing breed and particularly if you are new to raw feeding then yes, I would definitely be feeding some good quality dry food during their first year. You can then supplement the dry with raw bones, meat, fish, yogurt, etc. Ridgebacks need a balanced diet whilst growing, dry food will assure they get it. You could try Nutrience, Nutro, Royal Canin, etc (large breed puppy varieties). If you really want to continue with the raw I would suggest you use a pre-prepared commercial variety for now - either BARF or VAN and get your hands on the Ian Billinghurst books and read up. http://www.barfaustralia.com/products.php?pid=2 At 8 weeks old my boy was being fed 4 x per day, about 2/3 - 3/4 of a cup of dry food per meal. At a minimum separate for feeding, training, walking, and sleeping. You want the dogs to have a high value for you rather than becoming dependant on each other which can cause all kinds of problems later down the track. Another thing, I'm guessing that given the age of the pups they did not come from a registered breeder? I'd be having them checked for dermoid sinus by an experienced vet asap if it hasn't been done already.

Grooming wise I disagree. Neither of my dogs need much. Nails when the need it (every 1-2 months), same with ears, a brush over with the Zoom Groom when they're shedding (once a month if they're lucky, usually less), the Ridgie gets a bath when he smells or is having a decent hair shed, the Mali gets bathed only when she coats herself in mud. Wouldn't call either of them 'low maintenance' though. :p OP, I think what you are looking for is a medium - short coated, low drive, companion dog.

Nope, don't find that upsetting. Much prefer that to the mutts for sale puppy ads....

I've never had a problem with either..

You don't want your new pup to pick up bad habits from the older dogs. If one is very nervy then personally I'd keep them separated for the first few months - if not indefinitely. You can use crates, gates, separate yards and/or a dog run to do this.

I can't believe this thread is STILL going!! If a building was on fire then 99% of people would save only one person - THEMSELVES.. Either way, what is a hypothetical strangers child doing in your hypothetical burning down house? Odd.... but anyhow.... Re the OP, the mother could have at least apologised for the little shits behaviour. Her behaviour and lack of responsibility is worse than the kid! And we all know who would have been "at fault" if the dog retaliated. My dog? I would have roared at the bloody kid and high-tailed it out of there. Perhaps I would have made him cry, or angry? Who cares it's better than having part of his face removed by a terrified dog.

Mia Skogster or perhaps Uta Bindles?

There is a story to go with that pic..

She didn't need to go to the toilet - she had just been outside and had a wee and a poo, this was on the return to the crate. The crate is in our bedroom, she never has an issue at any other time and happily sleeps in there from 10pm until 4ish, we always take her out and down for a wee when it's required. There was no issue or distress, she wasn't upset, simply had decided that 4:15am was time to start the day and was objecting to being put back to bed. What I'm after is suggestions to help her figure out that sometimes she has to go back in the crate whether she likes it or not. She is not put in the crate at any stage during the day, could this be contributing? That she thinks it's strictly for night time? When we are out (the longest has been about 3 hours) she is left on the back deck. Would I be better to crate her for these periods? The other option is that was just bring her back to our bedroom, but leave the crate door open. Is this just going to create a bad habit? Put her back in the crate with a Kong or a pigs ear, shove a pillow over your head and IGNORE her. During the day you can build a positive association with the crate by feeding all meals in there.

I do know of parents who worm their kids at the start of every term. Teela, I'm pretty sure Advocate and Advantage don't cover hydatids. Sentinel and Interceptor do though.

Thanks Erny. Not sure about the shelf life but a big bag only set me back about $4.

Thanks for the reassurance. This one is like a bloody garbage disposal! Ah well, I'll keep a close eye on her this week just in case, sure she'll be fine.

Yeah I would have too!

tlc, just an average sized peach stone. Megan, found out the reason the crystals were powdery was that they were the end of the bag. I've bought some fresh ones and yes, they are crystals. We've been back to the clinic. Consensus is that the soda is not going to make her puke. Given her size and the likelihood that the stone will pass through I've decided to wait it out and keep a close eye on her in case of blockage. The last stone she swallowed (at 3 months old) came up again after 3 days, was swallowed again before I could blink, then back up again after a week. This dog is FAST

Hmmmm.... I might go back to the vet and see what they suggest. They are only a block away so that's easy enough. Being that a peach stone isn't toxic I'm not jumping up and down about it just yet but don't want it to get stuck either!

She swallowed a peach stone. I put her in the car and went straight to the vets, they were the ones that gave me the soda which is what they use in the clinic. It's like a white powder?

How long does it generally take to induce vomiting? I've given 2 x 1/2 teaspoon doses over a 45 min period and nothing?? Not sure whether to give another dose, wait it out a little longer or vet trip?

Nice dog. Try having your dog drop from a stand (as opposed to a sit). You'll find it will help a lot with your positions. Some rear end awareness work along with teaching a clear front and heel position should help too.

LOL Ness, yes I was trying to understand but just getting more confused.

I was reading up on that over the weekend too and found the ANKC rules/info confusing. Schutzhund tracking is very precise. The dog needs to footstep track, calm, deep nose. There is no time limit but the dog needs to show commitment to the track. The articles are different - (not personal articles like I think ANKC have?) and the dog needs to indicate them very clearly (usually by dropping on the article). There is no person at the end of the track either. ANKC sounds to have a lot of diversions in the track / cross tracks too?

If people only let their dogs off leash in appropriate leash free areas and had effective control there would not be a problem. If I take my reactive dog for a walk down the street where the law is to keep your dog ON LEASH, then I expect that other dogs will be ON LEASH. I don't care how friendly your dog is or how good you think your control is... No one is trying to "legislate' it - it's already the law. Designated off leash areas, ovals, parks, beaches are another matter. If you want to let your dogs off for a run and have decent control over them fine.