Red Fox

I tend to agree with this. Particularly in regards to Delta training. Strong minded breeds need strong minded owners, plus firm and consistent handling, which is something to seriously consider before going down that path. However I don't think you can rule out a breed entirely due to lack of experience either.

Have you considered an adult dog? http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/153726

But, a good percentage of the general public doesn't understand this. Plenty are convinced they have purchased a 'pure bred, health checked, papered' pup from a pet store when what they have actually got is a vacc card from the vet (possibly with the 'breed' stated on it) and a receipt. Most pet stores will happily tell you that their pups come from 'breeders', (of course they do!), have 'papers', are wormed, healthy, vet checked and vaccinated. And they are not necessarily lying... Nor is the BYB who tells you their adult dogs are 'registered'. Doesn't have to mean the dogs are ANKC registered - it could well mean they are registered with the local council of the buyer doesn't ask. If a buyer is aware of correct (breed specific) health testing, appropriate paperwork and registration, and where pet shop puppies actually come from then there is a lot less confusion. The questions are only 'irrelevant' to those who already understand the difference.

At the very least: *Breed specific health tests (and results). The buyer needs to research the breed to find out exactly what these are. In cross breeds this includes relevant tests for BOTH parent breeds. Cross breeding will not cancel out genetic health problems. A 'vet check' does not screen for possible genetic issues! *Worming and vaccination schedules (again, buyer needs to be aware of how often pups need to be wormed and vacc protocols) *Socialisation of pups *What type of dogs the breeder expects this litter to produce and what kind of homes they will be suited to. *Temperament of parents - good with kids, good with other animals, confident and outgoing or reserved with strangers, laid back and easy going or high drive and energetic. *Papers - will the pups be registered? If so, with whom? - buyer needs to make sure that the pup will be registered with a legitimate body (ie ANKC) and appropriate papers provided. Followed by: *Meet the parents (at the very minimum meet the mother) *Assess the environment - is it clean? Do the dogs appear to be well kept? *Assess temperament of parents - Stable, friendly, approachable? Skittish, aggressive, etc? *Assess the pups - are they alert, playful and friendly? Or are the fearful, snappy or lethargic? *Discuss contracts and/or restrictions the breeder may place on their pups *Health guarantees? What is covered, will the breeder refund or replace if the pup suffers from a genetic condition.

But if it's what you really want then it will be worth the wait and the expense.

If you want large(ish), protective, easy to train and unusual then what about a Belgian? The Lakenois are quite rare and the Tervs and Groens are just beautiful to look at too (Mali's are awesome!! but many don't make suitable pets). Or if you like the Retriever temperament but want something a little bit different you could also consider a flat coat or a curly coat. Rhodesian Ridgeback - large, protective, unusual, easy to care for, great companions, can be good with kids. Very smart, easy to train - but not always easy to motivate which can be frustrating. But if you really want a TM then get one. Do your research, know what you are in for and you will make it work.

I get most of mine from Dogwise I did get one via fishpond a few months back. Took about 3 weeks to arrive and was less than half the price of anywhere else. They don't seem to have very good reviews though..

Roo tails have next to no fat on them.

Nice pic OT, but where did you get those S/S pails from?

Some days I am living the dream ....other days I'm living the nightmare

And plenty are HUGE, shedding, stupid, hyper or aggressive.... but anyhow.... An F1 cross is no guarantee of any of the things she wants. The chances of the pups inheriting all of the most 'desirable' traits from both parents are slim to none.

I'd try the the visual block + internal fence first. If that doesn't work then add the bark collar also. The bark collar should discourage the yapping but not sure that it would have any affect on the fence running? Might mellow her out enough to break the cycle though if she can't see through or access the fence line.. I've just bought the Dogtra for a slightly different problem. I'll let you know how it goes.

If the collar was faulty, it would be covered by the warranty you get from Dogtra. But there isn't a trial period where you can use the collar then return it after using it :) Thanks for answering that Huski. I wasn't meaning a trial period but more along the line of either a satisfaction guarantee if the collar doesn't perform as described. Sorry, I didn't word it very well! My only concern is that the neighbours dogs could set it off by being so close to the fence-line. I'm really uncomfortable with that thought! However if we can get a bit of a noise blocker up also that solves that one too.

As this neighbours dog are somewhat DA and they don't walk the bloody things (well sometimes they allow the 8 year old kid to walk them) there will be no introducing. Does anyone have any ideas for sound proofing between the run and fence? Not totally, just enough to avoid any chance of the dogs next door triggering of the no bark collar. I was thinking about perhaps running some large wood sheets (not sure what they are called but you can buy them from the hardware store relatively cheaply) along the bottom of the dog run... not sure if that would do the job? Plants are another option but they will take a while.

I don't think you can make a dog alert bark. They are either territorial or they're not... You could teach her to bark on cue as suggested but whether or not it would carry through to a complete stranger opening the gate is debatable. Either way it won't happen overnight and you need a solution now. I'd be investing in one of those cheap novelty sensor alarms (like the rooster statues that crow when a person walks past) and placing between the gate and the door. You can get all kinds of LOUD annoying sounds, get a few of them -it'll certainly alert you that someone is there! I know of a few people who have placed them just inside their front door to see what time their kids are actually coming home on a night too. You can pick them up from Cheap as Chips or Reject Store type places.

Okay, thanks for the info. It's possible that the technology may have improved since the reviews I read were posted too? I'll go back and check the dates.. Just out of curiosity, do you have a returns policy if the collar turns out not to be suitable? (ie doesn't work for the dog for whatever reason?)

Thanks Huski, that's the one Steve recommended too. I have read a few negative reviews saying that particular collar can be set off by other dogs barking and/or loud noises though due to the sensor? If that's the case it probably wouldn't be ideal in my situation as she may end up copping the stim for the neighbours dogs barking instead! Hence I was also looking at the tritronics which (from my limited understanding) works on vibration sensors?

That spray sounds interesting... We're putting in an internal barrier tomorrow and I've decided to also buy an electric bark collar. My dog is not entirely innocent either. Since she discovered how much fun this new barking game is she's also instigating it. We a need fast and effective solution before it gets out of hand. Currently looking at either the Dogtra Y300 or the Tri-tronics bark limiter G3. Read both positive and negative reviews on both though. Does anyone have any direct experience with either of these models?

Retriever x Kelpie/BC would be my guess.

They bark at me putting out the garbage and picking up the shit on a morning so a radio may send them bonkers LOL. A hedge would be a nice idea though. If nothing else it would look pretty. Nope! These neighbours aren't going anywhere though. If only I could electrify the entire fence, but somehow I don't think that's legal Do you mean the ones that emit a high pitched sound when the dogs bark? I'm curious, I wonder how easily they go off though? Plus I'm also not convinced that they wouldn't have the opposite effect and send every dog within range off the deep end... The noise would be aversive for sure but the dog may very well not connect it to it's own barking?

Sigh- why is it the people that own loud dogs go to all the effort to keep their dogs contained and quiet who have irresponsible neighbours with quiet (little) dogs who make the big dogs bark!! My neighbour can be out the back when her dog does it and she makes no effort to move it away or reprimand it and her kids goad it on!! I don't want a noise complaint but its sucks that my dogs have to be locked in the house unless I can supervise them- well its really only one that needs supervising but its still a pain. Its really impossible to fix easily without both sides doing something about the problem. I have neighbours with rotties and they are great- we both go out and tell the dogs off if they start fence running so the problem on that side is just about solved!! Yes it's frustrating. And these dogs aren't small OR quiet. Unfortunately if/when my dog decides to bark back she is much MUCH louder! She'll only bark for a few minutes max, it's definitely not constant, but you can hear her from a block over. I'll speak to the neighbours but honestly don't think they'll do much about it. It would be easier to fix the problem from my side if I can. I don't care too much if their dogs bark, provided mine doesn't join in. Plus the neighbour on the other side of me is a cow and I've no doubt she will be screeching over the fence the second mine makes a sound which won't help.

Only in large amounts. A small amount won't hurt them, actually supposed to be a natural flea repellent if I remember correctly? I do give my dogs a small amount of garlic, never hurt them at all. Onions on the other hand (including spring onions, shallots, leeks) should be avoided completely. I do think vitamins can be beneficial. However the dog would be getting that from his dry food anyway so no big deal. There are a few multivitamin type products on the market. VAN make a good one, as do PetArk. Sorry, no help with the original question though

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Yep, that's pretty much my problem! I'll have a think about this. There may be some way I can make it work. Don't really have time to 'train' the neighbours dogs if I don't absolutely have to though..

Yes. I'll be doing that too.