Red Fox

Well you wouldn't think so. Makes me think that the cold is rising up through the ground... The tarp/space blanket is this http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=218&ParentCat=254&string=space Thanks Gretel / VJB, might grab a snuggle safe and try it out. If the dog doesn't like it I'll keep it for myself instead.

He doesn't chew at all so that helps. Not sure if he'd stay in/under a sleeping bag or not. I tucked him under a blanket last night and he managed to kick it off at some point.

I can't do the shredded paper but will put a thick wad of newspaper between the tray of the crate and the mattress tonight to insulate it from the floor. The blanket I have over the top is large but not as thick as a doona so might swap it for something heavier. The space blanket is wrapped tightly around and zip tied down to the ground like a crate cover though. eta, the minky is pretty big too and pushed up enough around the sides to snuggle into. He's just really feeling the cold this year! The Mali on the other hand pushes her big pink minky to the side and sleeps on the canvas mat on her back.

Not really. It's in my (carpeted) bedroom next to the bed. I don't use a heater so the house is cold - but certainly not freezing. It's been getting down to 0 degrees overnight and will get a bit colder as we move in to winter.

What's best to use in a crate to keep a dog warm at night? My poor Ridgie has a space blanket over his crate (reflective tarp thing to retain heat), normal blanket over that, padding between the tray and mattress, polar fleece blanket, full size minky blanket and a chilly dog sweater on and he's still waking up cold at 4am! I'm not keen on the heated pet beds that will take up the entire crate, but thinking either a small heat pad http://www.whelpingsupplies.com.au/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=274. Are these suitable for inside crates? What kind of heat do they put out? Or perhaps a snuggle safe?

Ruffwear Webmaster harnesses are very good.

Scent

https://www.petcareshop.com.au/ I've found this place to be the most reliable and cheapest on postage. Good prices too

I'm much the same - so you could imagine the horror on my OH face when I came home from a show stating I AM getting a Rough Griff!!! The new pup met my 38kg male over the weekend, one lick and Yoda was soaking, but it was the sweetest interaction. FYI stripping is not hard, just time consuming - a great couch activity One day

Thanks for the link DD, they look great!

While I agree with a lot of the factual information I found that particular link to be rather disturbing and overly opinionated. There are valid reasons for desexing an animal beyond 'sexual mutilation' and turning your dog into a 'servile plaything' for Gods sake! The other links are much more balanced though and well worth the read. In regards to the OP; Personally, I wouldn't be desexing the dog before he is physically mature - if at all. If the breeder has a problem with this or is unwilling to negotiate consider about going elsewhere.

Keep the leashes out of the dogs reach and don't leave her unattended whilst wearing one. A good leather leash is going to be the strongest and nicest to hold, not sure what you mean by "easy to guide around" though? Good quality leather is pretty easy to manipulate... Failing that try Gripper leashes (K9 Pro sell them). I think Sprenger also make one that is chain at the bottom with a leather top and handle. I'll see if I can find you a link. eta here: http://www.fordogtra...roducts_id=2283 http://www.fordogtra...roducts_id=2671 http://www.fordogtra...roducts_id=4503 http://www.fordogtra...roducts_id=4504

Choose based on the temperament. They are very different breeds. A smaller, lighter, (perhaps female) working line GSD might be more suitable for agility than a larger show line too, so that's worth considering. It all comes down to what you can live with I guess. As far as taking the dog everywhere with you? As long as it is well behaved and under control it shouldn't matter what breed it is. People who are wary of large dogs will be wary of either breed IMO. Good luck with your decision

Have a look here, second one down http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/mature/cavalier-king-charles-spaniel.asp She sounds like what you are looking for

I don't particularly like small dogs. or grooming, or non-working breeds... BUT.... I really want a rough coated Griffon Bruxellois

By 16 months a child is becoming a lot more mobile, more alert and wanting to interact with the world more than when she was younger. Kids start to experiment with touching, poking, pulling, using their voice too. Their movements are jerky and uncoordinated (unlike an adult) and they are usually on eye level with the dog. You can't reason with a 16 month old child either... Management is the key. (IMO)

Rogue Royaltyhttp://store.rogueroyalty.com.au/

There's also the convenience factor. When you walk in the door with 3 bags full of shopping to unpack the last thing you want is to have to be putting a dog back on his mat repeatedly. It's extremely difficult to enforce calm in a dog when the owner is frustrated. ;-) JMO

I've tried both and found the crate to work best. In my dogs case having him hold position (on a mat or otherwise) only served to ramp him up like a coiled spring when released. But in that instance the crate was already associated with relaxation.

You need to shut the door ;-) Does he go to his crate on command? Each time you walk in the door give him the command to go to his crate along with a treat (or a Kong if he's not too stressed to eat it). Lead him there if you have to. You can practice randomly through-out the day starting with very short periods in the crate (just long enough to eat his treat) and slowly increase. The dog will come to associate you opening the door with him going to his crate and receiving a reward. efs

Not sure what they are but I'll look into it

Hi Kate You need to keep the dog and child separate. Dogs need space from children and vice versa. Personally I'd be crating the dog and teaching your child not to go near him when he is in his 'space'. This may mean putting the crate in a separate room or behind a baby gate. This: "In recent weeks he has bitten her on the hand twice. Unfortunately my daughter doesn't understand his warning growls and I sometimes don't get to them in time." should never happen. Only have them both out and interacting when both dog and child are within arms reach, preferably with the dog on a leash to be safe. Other than that give the dog his space by having him outside, crated in a quiet area or confined to another part of the house (for example a kitchen or family room) when your little girl is inside. You can spend time with him when she's sleeping, and (as already suggested) lots long walks alongside the pram to tire him out. Which should be fairly easy given his size. I'd look at careful management before considering anything drastic.

Can anyone suggest some good gloves for tracking? It was 4 degrees the other morning and my hands nearly fell off! I expect we'll be down to the minuses soon!! I need something with decent grip but still be able to remain sensitive to the leash (and be able to handle food rewards).

I'd take a guess that when you are 'ignoring' him you are not completely calm and oblivious to him? It's easy to get stressed out and irritated by the bouncing and wining!! Is your dog crate trained? If so try teaching him to go to the crate when you arrive home and leave him there until he calms down (crate him in another room if it helps), when you let him out make sure it is very calm and low key, no attention until he is completely relaxed. Teaching him to go to a mat would work in a similar way but is harder to enforce.

I don't think you need to go to that extent, some onus needs to be on the buyer. *Explain the difference between pet shops, BYBs and registered breeders *Discuss the what 'registered' actually means (there are working registries also, but to keep it simple and relevant for pet owners you are best to stick to ANKC) *Explain what 'papers' are (both limited and main), why they are important and who can issue them. *Encourage the buyer to research temperament, breed standard and possible health issues within their chosen breed. This will help them to understand whether the breed is a suitable fit for them, what they should look like (structure, colour, faults, etc) and which questions to ask in regards to breed specific health testing. A little research can easily tell someone what (if any) tests are required and acceptable results. *Point the buyer towards breed clubs for further info.