Red Fox

One word - don't. Google them. Also do a search both here and on Specialist Canines. I'll let you come to your own conclusion..

Kei has a nice soft leather collar. I took it off last night and he was red raw under the folds of his neck I'm thinking something like this would be good for ID tags and around the house. The fleece looks soft and comfy, I'm not sure how soft the outer hemp is though?

I use a guardian light http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2141&ParentCat=119

Anyone here tried the Planet Dog fleece lined hemp collars? What do you think of them? Are they very soft? Durable? Do they stretch at all? Thank you. eta: http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/planet_dog_hemp_collar#.T98u5LXPrSh

Because 99.9% of people breeding cross breeds are not going to bother with health tests. What for? You can't register them, can't show them, can't work them (in their original purpose, ie herding)... Doubtful.. are you EXACTLY 50% like each of your parents? You're talking about 2 completely different breeds, different groups (herding vs gundogs), different personalities, bred for different purposes. What breed traits do you want in a dog? I've no issue with cross breeds, but you'll have no idea of how a pup from this cross will turn out until it's matured. Hence why people would suggest a older shelter/rescue dog, where what you see is what you get.

You could probably do it for around $250 (or less) if you could get the materials second hand. You don't need to fence the entire boundary, just a section of the yard, perhaps the area closest to your house. Basically you are creating a temporary yard within a yard. A roofed dog run would be the safer option. We have one of these, they are decent and relatively cheap:http://www.cheapaschips.com.au/showproduct.asp?sk=BA9582 If you look around you may well be able to pick up something cheaper second hand. As already mentioned, you don't need to keep Hugo in there 24/7. Only when you can't supervise - ie, if you were to leave the house for a few hours and wanted to leave him alone outside. He can still play in there, dig, roll around in the sun, etc. Make it his own little place where her can eat bones, tie a tug toy to the roof with a bungee cord, put a sandpit in there or a pool, a nice warm kennel. When you're home you can leave the gate open so he can go in and out as he pleases. He'll love it. It would also protect your dog if a bait was thrown over the fence. If the neighbours dog is still a pup you could try a hot-wire along the top of the fence to deter him. Though if the dog has any brains he'll find a way around it (unless you were to do your entire boundary which is probably not going to work for you). Can you attach some bamboo screening along that part of the fence immediately? It's cheap - $15 for 3 metres long by 6ft high from the Reject Shop. Not very strong but will add height and act as a visual deterrent.

I don't mean to sound rude, but a vet bill for a badly injured dog is going to cost more than a cheap fence (or even a decent dog run). You don't need "8-foot high fencing with concrete trenches" (though it would be preferable!). You just need a smaller house yard or run for your dog. At least until the problem can be sorted out. Report the dog based on his behaviour, not his breed. It's not his fault that he is what he is.

It WILL be your problem if the dog decides to jump a few fences and maul your dog. Put up internal fencing or build a dog run. It doesn't have to be expensive, just get some star droppers and strong wire. You can also cover the wire with shade cloth, tarp or bamboo screening to add height and/or reduce visibility. If it were me I wouldn't be letting my dog outside unsupervised at all. If the dog gets in your yard report it and if at all possible film it - EVERY time.

http://www.dogstarda...lled-these-dogs

Is he a very sensitive dog? My Ridgeback can behave like this towards me if I'm stressed out or anxious (regardless of how well I think I can hide it). I wouldn't rule out pain either. When he's playing it may not be apparent. Check his ears too.

We had some issues with her barking back at the neighbours dog (that runs and barks all friggin day at our fence line). Nasty neighbour on the other side was screeching over the fence at my dog. Crap situation all round but the other neighbour is a bitch and I don't want my dog baited. Problem solved within a couple of weeks and she no longer needs it. Not my first preference but it was something I had to get on top of very quickly before the situation escalated.

There's nothing wrong with Earthborn Holistic, providing it agrees with your dog. What type of roll are you feeding? Most of them are crap - and expensive. You're better off finishing it and either feeding her dry or chucking her a chicken drumstick for breakfast instead. It'll probably work out cheaper. That said I believe there are a few decent rolls around. Don't a some people on here use Scotties? Bullshit. If she's hungry she'll eat what you give her.

1. What brand was it? Dogtra YS300 2. How effective was it? And did it correct the problem in the long-term. My sister probably doesn't want her dog to wear one for the rest of it's life. Very. Stopped the nuisance barking within a week. 3. What type of collar was it, e.g. electric, citronella, etc. Vibration/electric stim 4. Also wondering if there is a type that you can set to a particular level, so that it stops nuisance barking, but the dog will still through it for stranger alert? My Mali still alert barks through the lowest stim setting, if she has reason to bark she doesn't even notice it. The collar gives a vibration warning then if the dog barks again it will give a stim. The collar will only give one stim per 15 seconds regardless of how much the dog barks. However if it's on the right setting the first one should be enough to interrupt any nuisance barking. I'm asking for my sister. She owns a Jack Russel x Shit tzu, and she is quite tiny, so she'll need a brand suitable for small dogs, not a big clunky thing that hangs off her neck. The one I have is quite small, plenty of length in the strap but lots of room to adjust for a smaller dog. I think it would be fine for a smaller dog. Hope that helps.

There isn't a 'better' way in these situations and there is no point beating yourself up over it. Any information given to those people would have gone in one ear and out the other, worse case scenario it would have started an argument. You could still speak the staff who bought the pups in a neutral way if you wanted to. Why not put some information together for them to give next time you visit? Probably worth mentioning to management as well, an aged care facility is not the right place for random dogs. Isn't it against health regulations?

I was thinking of it a 5kg bag wouldn't last 2 golden retrievers,a whippet and a chihuahua long. plus 1 cup of the vets all natural mixed to a cup of raw meat seemed like alot of vets all natural mix to me, eg feeding more of the mix then meat. Given a 5kg bag lasts my 60kg dog around 40 days I am guessing it would last you as long if not longer. I've also found that the dogs need a lot less than the suggested amount on the packet too..

An alternative to flaxseed http://www.melrosehealth.com.au/health_products/Healthy_Pet_Care/Melrose-Omegapet.aspx You can buy it at healthfood stores

I was thinking of it a 5kg bag wouldn't last 2 golden retrievers,a whippet and a chihuahua long. plus 1 cup of the vets all natural mixed to a cup of raw meat seemed like alot of vets all natural mix to me, eg feeding more of the mix then meat. Probably not. A 5kg bag would make around 25kg of food. It's not half/half either, you'd soak 1kg of VAN mix with 1L of water then mix with 3kg of meat = 5kg of made up food. Why not buy a 1kg bag to try? If they like it you can buy in 15kg bags which works out cheaper in the long run (at around $3-4 per kilo made up) and should last you for quite some time.

I remember that Rotti on the Show. It said he was specially good at police work, because his father had been an outstanding police dog. Silly burglar! No wonder he's nursing some wounds. And he's being charged with aggravated cruelty to a dog! Among other things. Yes, the name is the same I remember, he was impressive to see in action. Nice one Nat, stand up for yourself and your master! Liz why do you say he'll be the last Rotty? In the TV series the Policeman/Handler metioned that the Police are no longer using Rottweilers as Police dogs and that Nat is the last. I believe there is also a move in some Countries (such as the UK) to use Malinois rather than German Shepherds now. Germany are also switching to Malinois. http://www.thelocal.de/society/20110822-37117.html

If you email a few different companies they will likely send you out samples to try. Ordering online is very easy and it should take less than a week to reach you. Provided you know what you want and don't leave it until the last minute that should not be a problem. If you have to wait a few days then give them raw in between. Given that Missy is still a growing pup you really need to be careful with what and how you feed her. I popped the link to the Billinghurst books in an earlier post, they will give you the correct ratios and amounts if you wish to make your own raw and also explains about supplements, oils, veggies, etc. I have a copy of "The BARF diet" right here. I'm happy to lend it to you if you'd like? PM me if you're interested. If your finding raw too difficult, expensive or time consuming commercial is going to be a better option for your pup.

That was my point. The pup may not have showed any signs of SA at the breeders .

Reading your other thread on raw feeding I tend to agree - you are (IMO) making it overly complicated and expensive. Seriously, consider feeding VAN. Cheap, easy and balanced for a young dog. All you need to do it soak it and mix with the appropriate amount of raw meat (which it sounds like you have access to). Easy to make up a weeks worth or more and freeze too. You can request get a free sample here: http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71&Itemid=85 Have you read the Ian Billinghurst books? http://www.barfaustralia.com/products.php?pid=2 These will also point you in the right direction for raw feeding.

Is it possible that the puppy didn't display those behaviours whist still in the company of it's littermates?

I'm guessing a 'cup' is about 300g or so? Therefore you would be feeding her over half a kilo of food per day? My 37kg dog only needs 600-700g of meat/bones + a couple of tablespoons of minced veg per night. Obviously all dogs are different but I can't imagine a whippet would need all that much? Try feeding her less and keep it simple. If she doesn't eat then she goes hungry, proving she's healthy it wont hurt her. Sounds like your overfeeding and creating a fussy dog. If you're prepared to drive and buy in bulk Rosedales (in Berri) sell roo and chicken at $3 per kilo. PM me if you want more details.

That sounds about right. At 500g per frame that would work out to $3 per kilo which is the standard price at butchers and supermarkets. If you buy by the box you'll probably get them cheaper again. How much are you feeding her? Don't you have a Leonards there? They're usually cheaper.

You'd probably throw up too if someone shovelled a meal down your throat then asked you to run around too ;-) Feed your dog after training, not before. Hope she's okay anyway.