Red Fox

Totally agree on getting professional help. Sounds like some kind of transferred aggression.. from barrier frustration (ie being kept on leash when he wanted to be elsewhere) or from his primary reaction. All pure guess work SK - you need to talk to a professional, even if only by phone. However, as you've learned, applying any kind of aversive to an aggressive reaction is fraught with danger. Totally agree on getting professional help. Sounds like some kind of transferred aggression.. from barrier frustration (ie being kept on leash when he wanted to be elsewhere) or from his primary reaction. All pure guess work SK - you need to talk to a professional, even if only by phone. However, as you've learned, applying any kind of aversive to an aggressive reaction is fraught with danger. I will definately speak to someone a professional about this and will be keeping a good eye on him as the behaviour was just so out of character. Yes, thats exactly how I would describe it -A BIG FAT TANTRUM!- Ignoring him was what got him across the road and back home as the growling had the complete opposite effect of what I wanted. Issue for me is that I can hold on to that leash now during a tantrum now at 26kg but I couldn't restrain a 40kg dog

He went a bit nutty chasing leaves in the wind earlier.. could that have spooked him somehow?? We have a cat and he normally barks at them in the street but thats it. I cant work out what the trigger was either but lowering my voice and growling definately made the bahviour worse

I doubt that. he would have perhaps had that posture due to your body language- or pain, or confusion... Is his behaviour other than that absolutely normal??? Is there any way the collar could have hurt him? Was there any other dog activity nearby? Just long shots, I know.... but without being there- it's always a guessing game. There were no other dogs around and as far as I can tell he was not/is not in any pain. (I checked him out as I was worried that the thrashing around on the lead might have hurt him) Unlikely that the collar would have been causing pain under normal circumstances -we are using a martingale but it only tightens to that of a normal (tight fitting) flat collar when he pulls and sits losely around his neck when walking to heel. Yes, apart from the pulling on the leash issue we have had lately his behaviour is absolutly normal. Thats why I'm at such a loss to understand it *edited for spelling

Last night my 5 month old Ridgegack boy decided to go silly during a quick walk around the block. When I told him off and asked him to sit he tuned and faced me and barked then jumped and pulled on the lead. As we were half way around the block I decided to march him back home the way we came so that he would understand that this behaviour would not be tollerated. We were almost home and he had calmed down a bit so a thought I would walk him up to the corner and back (about 20m) before going home. When we were half way to the corner he started to go absolutely mental on the leash, Pulling and jumping then running back at me. I couldn't calm him down and tried growling at him but this made the situation worse. He turned to face me again and started jumping towards me barking and snapping. I was scared that I was going to lose hold of the leash so I just held on and stood my ground until it ended. He did take hold of my arm but didn't apply and pressure. I was so upset that when I got him home I put him straight out in the backyard, shut the door and went to have a shower. Hubby let Kei in 10 mins later and said that when he came inside he put his head down and went straight to the bathroom door. He obviously knew that he has done something wrong but I just dont understand what happened I waited for another 10 mins after I got out of the shower before I called Kei to me and had him sit and drop before patting him. We have socialised Kei since we brought him home with adults, children and other dogs, he has been taught bite inhabition, taken to puppy class and now obedience. I assert myself as the 'alpha' of the pack and have taught my son to do the same. Although Kei sometimes gets silly during play he is normally easy to settle and has NEVER been aggressive before. I dont know what to do. The whole street would have heard the commotion and now probably thinks we own an uncontrollable dog He is normally so kind and gentle but last night I was actually scared. Is this just a phase or have we got a bigger problem?

Kei wont swallow the capsules either so I pierce them with one of those splinter picker needle things and squeeze the oil out into the food (dont try to cut them with the scissors though cos you get squirted in the face ) I have seen the fish oil in liquid form at the chemist too which might be easier. From memory it's about $22 for a 250ml bottle. I also get the Melrose brand flax seed oil from the chemist costing $10 for 250ml.

Yep, I think that I'm gonna end up the black sheep of the class Oh well... Hopefully I can find a way to make the training a bit more *flexible* If nothing else at least our classes are great socialisation and I seriously doubt that everyone goes home and does everything *exactly* the way they are supposed to do anyway. We never set out to buy an obedience dog - just want him to learn a few manners... Yes- the dog comes first

Yes Tony, I believe you're right At the end of the day we had probably both made our decision that the halti wasn't suitable before the question was even asked. Being a first time owner and having an obedience instructor who was so pro-halti and insistant on us using it made me wonder if I was just being overly paranoid about it, but after the responses and advice I have recieved here though I realise that my concerns are probably warranted. A flat collar or martingale is a much better option for us and training and patience is probably the key to ending our pulling issues. Now.... how do I go about changing the whole obedience program so we dont have to do the circle??

Hi Mystiqview, thanks for the training tips Yes we do train most nights outside the house. I try and go to different places when I can whether it's the park, football oval, walking trails etc. Last night we went down to the local hockey oval which Kei found to be incredibly distracting - nose to the ground 99% of the time when on the grass :D I would like to train at the kennel club grounds but unfortunately the site is a 30 min drive away and locked up when it's not in use so not really possible. I usually train for around 15 - 30 mins but this is broken up with walks, exploring and play so not too full on for him and doesn't get boring. I also train intermitedly throughout the day ie. sit before opening the crate/door, heeling up and down the corridor, stays, drops and the look command. I agree about leaving the class when Kei starts to get tired and lose focus. The hour is really too long and he needs the break at this age. I think that the instructor might get a bit funny about it though - one of those ones that thinks you should MAKE the dog co-opperate no matter what and 'that would be giving in to him' The Vicks under the nose could be a good suggestion but does this not burn the skin? I have a kids Tixilix formula which is a bit gentler so might try that. I am also wondering if he is going through a bit of a fear period and if this could be contributing to the training probs? He is barking at kids (adults not so much) and if someone new comes to the house he will bark at them and hide behind me He has been well socialised with other dogs, kids and adults since we brought him home and this behaviour has only started in the past few weeks. He will bark at kids if we are out walking (an attention seeking thing maybe?? Tail is always wagging when he does this) If he is approached by another adult when out on a walk he is happy to go to them but if aproached at home he hides

Martingales are allowed at our club, actually they are encouraged. I came to our first class with Kei in a flat collar and was told that it was not suitable. The club sold me the martingale before we started. To be honest I dont mind it though as Kei seems to work better in it and I never have it on too tight. I will try and have a talk to the instructor about the halti next week. I am putting it off (and I know it) to avoid confrontation

I agree, I had a hard time getting Daisy's focus as a pup when she was at obedience club for that long too. Are there any other obedience clubs near you? Maybe you can start a new thread for some recommendations? If it makes you feel any better, the first time I took Daisy to obedience club I left in tears (literally) because she was SO badly behaved!! We were getting stares from everyone else, it was clear I was the worst owner there and Daisy was the devil dog But with perseverance, patience and time you get there in the end, I think it's important to recognise your breed and how different dogs learn things differently. Thanks Huski, makes me feel better and no, there are no other obedience classes in our area JulesP, It's not a nightmare for most, just us As far as the training before class it's not full on training, I just let Kei walk around mostly and then practice changing directions when he pulls and praising him when he doesn't. We were told that that we had to be there 30 mins before class so I use this time to let him explore, but teach him while he's doing it. Much better than trying to get him to sit still and wait. With the stands, I find that the instructor will stand there talking for a good few mins and this is where he gets tired and sits. I think I would have less probs if he was to be released from the stand a bit quicker and building up slowly as you said. I wish our classes could be run with each dog walking one by one or in their own space, I think it is a much better method. I get the point that the instuctor cant ignore the whole class for 1 person but it would be good if they could SHOW me the correct way to do things rather than tell me when I get it wrong. As far as the halti, it was sold to me, I was shown how to put it on but I was not shown the right or wrong way to correct him on it or what to do when he suddenly pulls. The instructor had plenty of time to show me how to use it correctly in our first lesson and I feel they didn't. I was not warned of any dangers, I was not told never to jerk him around with it. (common sense I know but there are some dumb owners out there) IMO there should be detailed instruction and a demonstration on how to use it correctly before being allowed to leave with it. If the instructor doesn't have the time to do this than they shouldn't be selling it. I am not saying that halti's are a bad device when used correctly and on the right dog. I just don't think it's suitable for us and am uncomfortable using it. I just hope that our instructor and I can agree to disagree on this one ETA. I actually did bring the halti with me just in case I felt that we really needed it. Just couldn't bring myself to bring it out of the car

Update on our obedience class: Kei went for his second lesson last night. I used the martingale (much to the distaste of the instructor ) I tried explaining that Kei just hates the halti and I cant even get him to walk 2 metres in it. Response is that I should have brought it anyway. Couldn't be bothered explaining that I'd only spent the past week researching it and that I wasn't comfortable with it and I wasn't going to use it on him.. instead I just said 'we'll keep working on it until I feel that he's ready to wear it, until then I'll use the martingale' I got a *look* and a 'bring it next week'... I think I'll just have to forget I spent about 30 mins before the lesson using the change direction technique around the oval. I was happy with the way Kei responded as there were lots of other dogs around, even had some of the other owners comment on how much calmer and better behaved he was this week Class was another matter though First 5-10 mins very responsive, rest of the hour nose to the ground pulling madly. Got told off for treating him too much when he wasn't doing anything right (no point trying to explain that I had a closed fist and was trying to get his attention and focus with the food) Got told off because he was laying down when the other dogs were in a sit (he's the youngest one there and only a puppy. I find it perfectly acceptable that he was tired towards the end of the hour as I know my dog) I am starting to feel that the class set-up is what makes it impossible. The trainer stays in the middle of a circle of cones and we go round the outside. Typical class is heel, sit heel, stand, going around the circle with some occasional right turns. There is also breaks for socialisation, recall on lead and a basic sit/stay. The problem is that by going around the circle there is always going to be the distraction of a dog in front and a dog behind, plus there is no way of continuing with the change of direction work that we have been doing. The other issue I have is that I have taught Kei an automatic sit when we stop so this is what he does. This makes stands difficult as he will stand for a few seconds with the stand command and then sit down and look at me. This is what I WANT but apparently its not right. I feel that there is a lot of instruction but a lack of support and one on one where needed. I wonder if I should just persevere with this nightmare or if I should say something. Maybe taking him out of class after 30 mins would help? I think an hour is too long at his age. Bad thing for me is that the trainer that runs class 1 also runs the who club so if I have a tantrum I'll be dealing with it for a long time If I didn't like the other dog owners so much I think I'd wait until Kei was older, but they are all very nice and willing to offer their own advice which makes it worth it in that regard. The socialisation part of it is important to us to. .

Yep :cool: Royal Canin is a good one, you could try him on Medium Junior as this is recommended for Beagles. We use Nutrience (meduim Breed Puppy) and find it very good. (I am also planning on trying Artemis next bag as I really like the sound of it.) Other good choices are brands like Eagle Pack, Eukanuba, Purina Proplan, Advance, Innova, etc. Personally I wouldn't recommend Science Diet (very high in grain)

I often find that I feed a lot less than what is stated on the pack but that will vary from dog to dog. Generally that guide is for if you are feeding dry food alone, if you are adding in other foods you will need to reduce anyway. I would steer away from Lucky Dog (sorry) as it's highly grain based as far as I know. Try and get something a bit better (premium if possible) if you are going to make it a main part of his diet. Feeding a premium food will also mean that you feed less so smaller poops :cool: In general you would need to feed more volume with raw than with dry. Dry is very concerntrated and has a low moisture content so you need less, fresh has a higher water content so will always weigh more. (Hope that makes sense) This sounds okay to me (but I'm not an expert on diet and still learning too so make sure you get lots of oppinions on this!) If you are giving raw brisket for tea I would probably give it a couple of times per week instead of the dry, not with it. Mince and veg or fish are fine to mix in with the dry though. I'm not sure how much food a Beagle would need but based on their size and weight I would think that 1 cup per serve might be a bit too much. My guy weighs about 24kg at the moment and I only feed about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2cups per serve when I give dry. Really consider a premium dry food though. They may be a bit more expensive but they will last longer and will be far better for your dog. Cheaper (supermarket brand) foods are often very high in grains so not a good protein source. They also tend to have a lot more artificial preservatives in them and low quality ingredients. ETA: Maybe when you go in for your next Puppy Class you could ask for some advice on suitable dry foods? They should be able to point you in right the direction and will probably have samples availble so that you can make sure your dog likes the food before spending up.

I get the same thing with Kei. After I brought him home I always had this itchy red rash on my chest and the side of my face where he would put his little nose. Took me about a week to work out that it was whisker rash

You could add dairy (natural yogurt or cottage cheese) to the dry every day if you wanted to, mince meat with the dry most nights and vegies every 2nd night and substitute one meal every now and then with raw meaty bones. Fish is usually once a week and you can also add raw eggs aswell. When we first started Kei's diet went something like this; breakfast- dry mixed with natural yogurt or an egg, lunch- dry or a chicken wing or lamb flap, dinner- dry with 1/2 cup lean beef mince yogurt and occasionally veg and a small tin of sardines once per week. If you are feeding at least 50% dry you shouldn't have to worry too much about your dog missing out on any major nutrients. If you want to feed raw you can add it in and build on it slowly but make sure you do your research first. Good luck

If you're going to give him bones try chicken necks and wings to start with. At 14 weeks old he should be able to handle this fine. Ribs might be a bit big but lamb flaps and beef brisket are a bit softer once he can handle it. When we first started giving Kei his chicken necks he wouild swallow them whole so I broke them up into smaller pieces until he learnt to chew them (a couple of weeks) I also gave him frozen wings so that he would chew them. Now I have no problems with getting him to chew because he actually finds it more enjoyable I'm not an expert on diets but I have looked into the different dry foods as there are quite a few around. We use Nutrience (large breed puppy) and find it is quite good. Royal Canin, Eagle Pack and Artemis are all good choices too. These are all Super Premium so fairly expensive, but you will use less than you would of a cheaper food and the ingredients are much better so worth it IMO. If you are feeding mainly dry food you can add things like mince meat, yogurt, minced veg and fish to it and then substitute it with bones here and there. That way you know that your dog will be getting a good variety of foods and you dont have to worry about the ratios too much. If you want to feed raw (BARF) do a lot of research before you start. I've got the Ian Billinghurst books (available from Barfaustralia.com) which have a lot of info in them on what to feed and how to do it. The ratios for raw according to the book are 60% Raw meaty bones, 15% veg, 10% offal, 10% dairy and 5% fruit but if you are feeding mainly dry then you dont really have to worry about that too much. What was your dogs breeder using? They are probably the best person to contact for advice on feeding. Hope this helps

The way I do it is to look at Kei when he is out playing in the garden but not right after his meals. If I can see the shadow of his last 2 ribs in the sunlight then he is at correct weight. If I can't he's getting to fat I dont tend to look at his tummy before or after his meals, only in-between times. Kei is a ridgeback and their ALWAYS hungry so I cant trust him either Plus being a large breed it is important to keep him lean. Not sure about Beagles though...

It's a good idea to give him a good quality dry food at least once a day or as part of his meals while he is growing so that you can provide him with all the proper nutrients that a puppy needs. If you are going to feed raw he will need lots of bones as well as the raw meat and vegies, fish, dairy etc.

The way I work out how much to feed is by using the dog as my guide. If he is looking a little too lean or is having a bit of a growing spurt and seems extra hungry I increase the amount that I'm feeding (slightly) and if he starts to look a little too tubby I reduce it. This is how his breeder suggested to do it and it seems to be the best way for us. If I try to do it any other way, ie. % of body weight or the amount of dry food suggested on the pack it never seems to work out right. And if I was to feed him all he could eat in 15mins I might as well give him the whole bag Maybe you could try increasing his meals by 10-15% every week until you get to the right level? I think every dog is different though and you need to find what works for you.

Yep, using the look command. It works well if I can get his attention. Our distraction tonight was sticks and bark... Kei would pull on the leash to pick something up and I would change directions only to find that he'd slammed his paw over the top of the stick he wanted and dragged it around with him Once we got onto the footpath and he realised that I had the 'good' treats he was pretty responsive though

Thanks for all the tips and info. We are going to keep training the way we have been as it seems to be working and I will also keep practicing the changing direction technique when walking him on my own. Trained at the park again last night and this time there were LOTS of distractions (other dogs/kids/joggers) so found it quite hard to keep Kei's attention. He wanted the treats but there were so many other interesting things around However I was able to use a treat to have him sit and wait calmly while a lady walked back past us (he had barked at her madly -in a playful way, not aggressive- and pulled on the leash when she had walked past the first time) so to be able to get this focus from him was promising We have obedience class tomorrow night so it will be interesting to see how he goes. Not looking forward to explaining to the trainer that I wont be using the halti though.. especially as I still have to pay for the thing!!

I just brought out the halti to do the usual -put it on, walk to the kitchen in it, feed some treats- and Kei saw it coming and hid under the table :rolleyes: I had to coax him out with some cheese. He normally runs to me and sits waiting when the lead comes out but now he hides :rolleyes: I think we are going to invest in some private training sessions and just use the martingale (I have the Black Dog one too Huski) It's so awful to see him scared of the leash..

Ever since we brought our puppy home at 9 weeks he has been intent on chewing up the bark-chips in the garden. He would take a mouthful, chew tham into bits and spit them out. This behaviour came to a halt at about 12-16 weeks but over the last two weeks (he is now 20 weeks old) he has started again and now he is actually eating them! He will go directly to the garden and seek out the biggest bark chip he can find and chew it up. If I ask him to "give" he will swallow most of it first This has co-incided with him cutting his larger molars so I am wondering if this is a teething issue or if he is eating them for other reasons We have plenty of chew toys and Kongs and give RMB's daily, I have even tried trading him his bark chip for a pig ear but the bark was just more interesting! Could it be a diet issue? (Bark-chips are not treated so no risk of poisoning)

I think that's what we should have done too Thanks for the tip I think we will keep going with the martingale and then eventually switch back to the flat. I put the halti on again last night and we couldn't even walk from my gate to the neighbours! Kei just hates it. Switched back to the martingale and he was more than happy to wear it, but still pulled for the first half of his walk :D Could it just be a stage that he's going through? I often train in the backyard with no leash too and he will co-opperate there... just not out of the house where there are so many distractions