ozjen

You might want to check out this site for a natural safer alternative if you are worried that the flea treatment is causing the problem. http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/diatomac...arth_fleas.html

What about an Australian Shepherd I like Borders, Cattledogs and Kelpies but an Aussie is top of the list for me. Hoping my girl will give me a new show prospect sometime in the not too distant future so that I can get back to showing.

Don't be nervous about it Valleywa its just like all the other shows just a little bigger with more international judges just the place to showcase your new pup and a new breed for WA. The country shows usually get quiet a reasonable turnout and you can camp on the grounds at Geraldton and Albany. I'm not showing at the moment as my girl is semi retired and may be on maternal duties for the Western classic but if you need some moral support let me know I'm sure I'll end up down there anyway. I remember how scary it can be when you first start. Feel free to email me if I can help, I don't live far from the Canine centre and you can always do some practice with my girl if you want to.

No You have clearly failed to notice that these are extemely rare and expensive new breeds that shall make my fortune. [evil cackle] Before Troy newks me, I have the affidavits of not less than ten employees independent veterinary geneticists from the Ponds Institute to support my claim that they are pure bread. They are OZKC recognised. This is the launch of my marketting campaign. Now to perfect the coat colours that shall make me the most $$$$ Oh, and if anyone wants to join the OZKC, PM me. I am President. Clearly they are the very, very rare Lampit and Pooderrier. Do you have a puppy waiting list I want to get rich too. PS If I join the OZKC can I breed them EVERY season and NOT health test I need to make a PROFIT.

I believe that one of the biggest problem with the yearly injections is that if you have a dog that reacts badly to it, there is no getting it out of their system its there for 12 months if the dog survives. With the daily treatment if the dog reacts it has a chance of being treated while it is active in their system until it has run its course within the 24 hours. With the annual injections for parvo,distemper ect I do think we over inoculate and while vets here are just starting to do it 3 yearly it has been happening in America for many years. This is only my opinion though and some of the vets or vet nurses on this forum could probabaly advise you bettter.

So reading that it IS actually safe. Now why couldn't I find that before I posted? And why so many cautions if it is safe? Only safe at the recommended dose, sometimes when they are used for other treatments where the dose is higher they would not be safe for a dog with MDR1 mutation. Welcome to owning an Aussie, they are great dogs. Do you know the parents MDR1 status? this may save you having to DNA test for MDR1.

A couple of years ago they did try to start a flyball demo team in Perth, training at the Canine centre on a Tuesday night with plans to have demos at the Royal show a couple of months down the track. Unfortunately it all fell through, possiably because of lack of substained interest. I went for some sessions but it conflicted with our Agility training and I didn't feel it was very structured for training although it was only starting so may have got better given more time. I think Dogswest had invested in some of the equipment so don't know if they would still have it and whether it would be available for use by interested clubs.

I would stop using it, I know with some breeds including my own we can only use certain products as some of the dogs are Invermectin sensitive. I have heard of dogs being killed because of well meaning owners and VETS. I don't know what Advantix is made up from but Frontline is one of the safer ones for our breed. There are a number of breeds that are Invermectin sensitive and it may be worth researching this, even vets are still not all familiar with this. Basically anything with -ectin should not be used for these dogs. Good luck and I hope your dog is OK.

I once saw an episoide of Dr Harry where a JRT was getting the squirts after being at the beach and he put it down to the fact that as the dog bounced through the water it was forcing water up into its rectum effectivly giving itself an enemma. He didn't see it as a big problem, but then I guess he's not the dog or the owner who has to clean up.

As long as a dog is well exercised and mentally stimulated the yard size in not really relavent as most dogs sleep for a large percentage of their day and most will only run around in the yard if they are playing with you or another dog. I have a working breed (Australian Shepherd) but she only goes in the yard when I'm there or to toilet the rest of the time she is indoors. She is however exercised regularly and mentally stimulated training in obedience, tricks, agiliy and playing with me, my smaller dog or hassling the cat who always comes back for more. She also has plenty of toys which she loves to play with. My previous working breed Border/Kelpie X went from a large yard to the small yard I have now with no issues at all. A small enviorment can also be made more mentally stimulating for your dog with a little planning and there are also interactive toys on the market to make the job easier, but most importantly I think is the human interaction they get each day.

Does anyone know the winners for each event? Would have loved to have been there to watch it all, I can't wait to see it on TV.

Hi Rubystar, The rings were from one of the discount variety shops like King Kongs or $2 shop in the pet section and the pole was made from scraps, just a square base and a piece of broompole. Was always going to paint it, but like so many other things never got around to it. :D Its an easy trick to teach but the finished product looks impressive, I'm sure you would have no problems teaching Ruby or Millie it.

No worries Gamby, it was actually Leopuppy04 that I learn't this trick from, so the credit goes to her. I agree tricks are great fun and a fantastic way to enhance the bonding with your dog. Youtube is a great source of ideas for tricks and tutorials on teaching some of them.

Another method which can be used for a different style of NO using the clicker is to gently place a cottonwool ball just inside the ear just enough to tickle the ear. As soon as the dog shakes its head to dislodge the irratation you click and reward. After a few times of doing this try without the cottonwool and if your dog is familiar with how the clicker works and has picked up on the idea it will give you a shake of the head to get a click and reward. After a few successful tries without the cotton ball you can then add a command. A discrete hand signal is also handy as then you can cue your dog when you ask a question and people won't notice the signal. Just watch with your signals though I found that my dog was mistaking the way I was holding the camera for one of her signals. ;) in this clip, but it will show you the other type of NO. By the way, if you say YES when the dog says NO what are you going to use when you teach YES. That's the fun of training dogs lots of tricks you have to be careful what words you use in case you need those words for something else. Have fun.

I taught my Aussie this by backchaining. You start by getting the dog to lift the ring of the pole rather than the other way round. I use a clicker and C/R as soon as the dog starts to lift the ring, as the dog gets the idea it has to lift the ring abit higher each time to get the C/R, when I click the first thing the dog does is drop the ring to get the reward. As we proceed I hold of on the C/R and the dog will drop the ring back before I C/R and then I only C/R when the dog drops it back on the pole. Once the dog has got the idea I start to add distance in small increments. While this sounds like a slow way of doing it my dog got the idea in one short lesson so it does work quicker than one would expect. Look for the outline of the trick rather than perfect results at the begining, perfection can come later with practice right now you just want the understanding. Good luck and have fun, this is a video of my girl doing the trick.

Thankyou MrsD

All states have the same rules, you can find them here 3rd link down, under Dances with Dogs Are you a member of the DWD Yahoo email group? No, but I'll like to be could you post the link? Thanks.

There are two options with canine dancing: Cannie Freestyle- dog can work away from the handler more heelwork is often only used as a linking of tricks. Heelwork to Music- More work closer to handler in the heel position on left or right side with dog in front facing handler or dog alongside walking forward/ backwards/sideways. Can do tricks but a certain percentage has to be in a heel position. With each they have different levels, For someone who has never had a title in this field before (handler, not dog) they start of in Starters (2 quallies needed to advance to next stage) then there is Novice(3 quallies) and it goes on from there. The dog needs to title at one stage to advance to the next and as they go up in stages the time in the ring is longer and more quallies are needed to advance to the next stage. Routines also get more advanced as you reach the higher levels although having watched some of the WA competitors at the first couple of comps they are already doing some higher level work in the starters and are very good. Handler provides their own music, and get extra points for dressing in theme (dogs do not dressup although they can wear something like a bandana or bowtie) In starters they only need a routine of about 1 to 1.5minutes duration. You have to send details of your music with entryform along with length of running time. It pays to burn to CD the section of music you will do your routine to so that organisers job is easier. Depending on which disipline you do you have to work through all stages of that disipline but you can compete in both disiplines if you want to and aim towards titles in each. Each state probabaly has some of its own requirements but in WA you are not allowed to take things like weapons or simulated weapons into the ring as props. Other things as pros can be used as long as they form part of the routine in some way and these can be used to enhance the routine. Points are awarded for things like, timing, difficulty/variety of actions/tricks, costume, interpertation of the music, how handler and dog work as a team including level of enjoyment for both and also the audience etc. Also have to cover a fair amount of the ring so routine has to be a mobile one not restricted to one spot or area of the ring. We have one leg(quallie) in starters from our first routine in Canine Freestyle but on the second comp. the dog decided she did not want to do the routine except for the very last part and her handler (ME) had a meltdown as the nerves were already shot. Haven't had another go yet but we aren't giving up just working on a new routine eventually I'll get the nerves under control. for both myself and the dog. Keep teaching your pup as many tricks as possiable and also work on distance with the tricks, look at possiable music choices and start planning possiable routines and before you know it you guys will be in the ring competing. Sorry that is about all I can think of right now as we have only been doing it a short time, I find nerves are the biggest killer especially as my dog feeds of my nerves and then she looses the plot too. Feel free to email me if I can be of any help with tricks we have learn' t quiet a few now.

If you are interested in giving it a go next tracking season we could always go together and share the cost of the petrol. Can't say I like the early mornings but as its a seasonal dog activity I think I would survive it. Like you I would prefer to have other beginers to start with.

If you can't find one you can learn alot of the moves by watching Youtube, that is how I first taught my girl the moves before Doggy dancing became a recognised sport here. Our biggest trouble is not learning the moves but handling the nerves in competition, unfortunatley my nerves flow on to the dog causing her to go into shutdown.

They look great TLC, I did some of my dog a few years ago and they where a real hit with family and friends, these are a couple of the images I used. I'm hoping with my new camera I'll be able to improve on these this year.

How come the dog was dead for 5 weeks without the owner knowing? Surely if the dog had been confiscated the owner would have attempted to visit the dog in this time not just waited for the court case.......... I feel for the dog but wonder if the owner is more concerned about compensation that the dog itself. I agree though that it should never have happened.

In my puppy pack I start with a file containing the puppies eye test, copies of parents health tests, microchip change of owners details, copy of spay/neuter contract signed by all parties plus copies of any other Canine association papers, vaccination certificaite, copy of health issues associated with the breed and some details on these. An outline of the puppies upbringing, worming and feeding, some websites pertaining to the breed or dogs that might be of interest. Also a puppy pack supplied by our canine body which includes info on the canine clubs etc. Membership form for the breed club in our state. DVD of puppy pictures from birth until rehoming. A bag of dog food, 1ltr of lactose free milk, a ball and a teddy bear(with familiar scent) and I think the last couple of pups to go went with collars and worming treatments (usually out of date before I need them again anyway) as well. I also ensure they have my details in the file so that they can stay in touch or contact if they have any problems. Also if families are visiting their pup before it is ready to go home with them I usually give updated pictures to each of the children to take home. While I do discuss everything with the new owners I find the file gives them the chance to absorb the information at a latter date . The food gives the pup time to adjust to a new diet and the toys hopefully help the pup to settle in its new home. I am looking forward to reading this thread and finding out what people would prefer to have in their puppy packs.

Fishpond Bookstore NZ sends to Aust and have it, see my other post for the link.

This is a more local source for the book, if you spend $50 you get free postage and they have plenty of dog books at good prices. The tracking one is under $40 Aust. and no long waits for delivery. http://www.fishpond.com.au/Books/Home_Gard.../10720850/?cf=3