lappiemum

Oh, there has to be lappies in it!! Some entries!

I think it depends on the type of spitz - I know for some types it can be difficult to keep them knot free in places. I just have allpies, so I usually use a slicker brusk on their finer coated areas (good pin brus and metal comb in others), but that's because as a breed they have a great 'wash n wear n brush out' coat. My girl's feet and legs were all muddy from her walk the other day (she found puddles!) - 15mins later it had dried and the mud had all fallen out and she was clean as a whistle; mind you, my floor needed sweeping!

Depending on the breeder and if you wanted pet or show, you're looking at between $1200 and $1500 for pet, up to $2000 for show.

Tasha had a major de-nudeing last Feb, and is still growing back her coat; Boof's coat has thickened up but is still coming in. Both my lappies have just hit 18months; they are a slow maturing breed. I should note that although I love him to death, Boof's brains are still growing.....I'm told that with the boys it can take up to 3 years for them to 'grow up'. Tasha is already a lot more mature, although they are infact litter mates. Some pics of Boof in coat taken in June this year; he's moulting at the moment (ofcourse - the royal is just around the corner!) but he'll probably be a big boy when he matures.

The warning about lappies being addictive is definately true - I think its the combination of lappie cuddles and their easygoing personality. I know I look forward to getting home and having pack cuddles on the couch - some pics below of my babies....LOL! Also, some one asked how they change- here's a pic of my girl at 4 weeks: and now: And just to show how cute they are, here's some puppy shots....! And ofcourse, some couch shots...! with my daughter as well... and my favourite of Tasha to date!

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) I own, show and will soon be breeding our first litter of Finnish Lapphunds. Our kennel is Taigakoira, a very small family kennel, where our dogs are important family members! 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? Although a very old breed, the Finnish Lapphund was only officially recognised in 1945, when the first breed standard was created. Originally bred to guard and herd, the Finnish Lapphund has been an invaluble dog for farmers and reindeer herders in its native Finnish homeland. These dogs proved themselves to be loyal, intelligent and dedicated workers, to the point where they were so important that they were elevated to a family member status. Today, the Finnish Lapphund is one of the most popular dog breeds in Finland, having made the transition from working dog to family pet very successfully. However, they still retain their herding ability, and Finnish Lapphunds, or lappies, as they are affectionately known, are still used for their original purpose in Finland, as working dogs. Lappies are a well balanced breed, medium size with an athletic build and excellent temprament. According to Kennel Club Breed Guide (Toni Jackson 2003), lappies "should not develop into a showy, heavy-coated spitz, standing with its tail up all the time, but should be a more primitive animal that should bear similarities to the rough and tough wolverine." 3. How common is it in Australia? Lappies are not a common breed in Australia; although they are growing in popularity. In April 2009 there were 218 individuals, although since this time there have been several litters and the numbers are probably closer to 250. To own a lappie is very special - its not uncommon for perfect strangers to stop you and ask about your 'gorgeous dog' - although they may have difficulty in guessing the breed, and you may have to give a short history on where they came from! 4. What is the average lifespan? Lappies have a life span of aproximately 12 to 14 years, but dogs of 16 - 17 are not uncommon in Finland. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Lappies have the best temperament! Known for their laid back and relaxed demeanor, the breed standard of Keen, courageous, calm and willing to learn. Friendly and Faithful is definately spot on. They should be friendly, easy going dogs, bold and inquisitive, but unobtrusive in their nature - they are curious about their surroundings but should always be in harmony with their environment. Lappies are generally a submissive breed, loyal to their family and eager to please and receive praise for their actions. Some personalities, particularly bitches, may be a little bit distant or shy with strangers at first, but should never be overlly timid. Lappie owners who work with their dogs will attest to the fact that they train with a minimum of effort, with many claiming that their dogs seem to have an inbuilt intuition of what is acceptable or desirable behaviour, and what is not. It is true that many Breeders have observed that lappies seem to have an emotional empathy that allows them to fit in with their new family pack almost immediately. In general, their laid back nature allows them to naturally be followers, looking to their human owners to be the 'pack leaders'. However, like with any dogs, it is important for the owner to be the 'pack leader', and to establish rules and boundries. It should be noted that while lappies are readily trained, they do have an independent streak; in some more than in others. Although most lappies are fine to be let off lead, it may be some time before your lappie returns, especially if there are more interesting things around to chase and play with. As this independence is more obvious in dogs that are not trained from an early age, it is important to install a sense of working as a team with your lappie. However, even well trained lappies may occassionally turn 'deaf' in a recall; deciding eventually to return but only after they have said their greetings to others on the way back! 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? Lappies are a working breed, and while they don't have the same drive as a border collie or kelpie, they do need regular exercise and mental stimulation. As long as they get this, however, you'll find that in their 'down time' they are quite happy to be couch potatos - with you, of course! 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? In terms of spitz breeds, lappies are definately more suited to first time owners - but you should speak to your breeder so that they can assist in selecting a puppy that would be suitable to your home and lifestyle. They *love* kids, and like nothing better than hanging out with the pack! 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? It depends on the individual of course, but I would never recommend that any dog be left alone for extended periods. I would also emphasis that lappies should not be an outside only dog - they are definately happiest when with their family! 9. How much grooming is required? Surprisingly, not a great deal. Like other long coated spitz breeds, lappies have a double coat - the outer coat is quite harsh while the undercoat soft. The outercoat keeps dirt, snow and damp away from the undercoat (thus the dog has natural insulation) and doesn't normally matt or tangle. Pet lappies should be brushed for about 20mins once a week (show dogs more so), and their coat should never be cut or trimmed (other than their feet and nails). Your breeder will be able to advise on that. One note on lappie colours - they come in all colours of the canine rainbow! All colours are acceptable in the breed standard, as long as there is a basic main colour that dominates, with colours other than the main colour occuring on the head, neck, chest, underside of the body, legs and tail. This means that solid colours are permitted within the breed standard as well as the more common bicolours (which are the most common colour seen in Australia). Colours include cream, black, red, tan, brown, black and tan or brown and tan, with or without white, as well as sables (eg wolf/game sable and blue sable). Many lappies have the distinctive 'four eyes' - which appear as contasting colour patches just above the eyes. Less common in Australia is the "spectacle" marking, which appear as circles of lighter hair around the eyes. One of the most interesting aspects of lappie colouring is just how much it can change over time as they develop from a puppy to an adult. Some lappies will darken as they get older, others will lighten. Face markings often become far more distinct, in some, tan points will fade to cream, in others sable colour may appear. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? Puppies can be boisterous, but if properly socialised more mature dogs should be fine. As always, you should never leave children and dogs unsupervised - but having said that, every lappie I've met thinks children are wonderful! 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Yes. There are two conditions that are seen in the breed and should be noted - Generalised Progressive Retinal Atrophy (GPRA, also known as PRA) and Canine Hip Dysplasia (see below). Breeders also test for Hereditary Cataracts (see below). It should be noted that these conditions are not unique to Finnish Lapphunds but can occur in a number of other breeds, and in cross breeds. All registered, ethical Lapphund breeders in Australia screen for these conditions, and will only breed from Lappies that pass the necessary health checks and are free from genetic problems. It is therefore very important that you only buy from a registered breeder, who can guarantee the health and genetic background of your new pup. Generalised Progressive Retinal Atrophy (GPRA, also known as PRA) This is a progressive hereditary eye disease that affects a number of breeds, in which eyesight of the affected animal will deteriorate over a relatively short period of time, culminating in total blindness (usually by the age of five, although the age of onset can vary from one to eight years of age). It is often first noticed as a loss of night vision, then a loss of vision in all types of lighting. The disease is inherited via a simple autosomal recessive gene. As such, the parents and offspring of any affected animal will be carriers, even if not affected themselves. Thankfully, genetic testing can now determine if a dog is clear of GPRA or a carrier. In Australia to date there have been no cases of GPRA in Finnish Lapphunds, and while breeding from a carrier to a clear dog is permitted, the breeding of a carrier to another carrier is not recommended under Victorian Code of Practice (under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986). It is important to note that the legislation is designed to cover all recognised dog breeds that carry PRA (and hereditary cataracts), and so while the legislation states that carrier to carrier breeding may only be permitted as part of an approved breeding program, it should be noted that the Finnish Lapphund Club of Victoria (FLCV) prohibits the breeding of carrier status to carrier status animals. The legislation states that progeny that has come from a pairing that includes a parent who is a carrier of the GPRA gene must also be tested, as it is likely that a number of the offspring a carrier will also be carriers. However, progeny from two clear parents will also be clear. When buying a Lappie puppy, you should always ask your breeder as to the GPRA status of your puppy's parents; if one is a carrier your pup should also be screened. It is important to note that carrier status does not mean that the puppy will be affected by PRA; it is in the offspring of two carriers that the disease is likely to emerge. Hereditary Cataracts There are many types of cataracts, which essentially is the lend or the lens capsule becoming opaque. Causes may be due to a congenital abnormality, an infection in utero, trauma or injury to the eye, a metabolic disorder, the result of nutritional disorders or as a result of the influence of certain drugs. Cataracts may also be hereditary; although the number of instances of this occurring outside of Finland are small. However, your breeder should have ensure that both parents of the litter have been tested. As some cataract conditions can develop over time, breeding dogs should be tested in the 6 - 12 months prior to mating. Canine Hip Dysplasia Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD) occurs in most breeds of dogs, including mixed breeds, and can result in debilitating 0rthopedic disease of the hip. A dog that has hip dysplasia is said to be dysplastic and has hip joints that are not formed perfectly (caused when the femoral headdoes not fit properly in the hip socket), which causes instability of the joint. Over time, this malformation can cause degenerative joint disease, resulting in increased pain and immobility. CHD is a common canine inherited condition that is not apparent at birth, the imperfection can be slight or severe. A dysplastic dog may experience no pain or problems from its condition or it may experience mild to severe discomfort when moving. Breeders in Australia should test for hips prior to their dog being involved in any breeding program; at Taigakoira Kennels we test for hips and elbows, and publish this information freely. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Other than what is outlined above, you should expect your breeder to want to keep in touch with you and your lappie! There is a strong lappie community emerging in Australia, with regular picnics, events and internet chat groups - which has links to international groups. And be warned - you will find that one lappie is never enough!

obviously a case of too much testosterone, not enough brains....

Hi Puppy people- For a really good booklet on how to survive puppyhood, read Ian Dunbars "After You get Your Puppy" - you can download it from http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/AFTER%20...our%20Puppy.pdf (they also have one called "Before You get Your Puppy" - but I guess that's a bit late now!!LOL)

The AVA has just released their new vaccination guidelines - they've been in the works for quite some time. It recommends a 3 yearly protocol for core vaccination (parvo, distemper, hepatitis) then annual vaccination for additional vaccinations if they are required (parainfluenza / bordatella / leptospirosis etc). It has prompted a review of our protocols even though we are already on a 3 year protocol. Feline vaccination is a bit tricky - the recommendations are for a 3 year protocol but no one has tested a 3 year DOI. Do we (the profession) take the leap of faith, or reluctantly stick with the registered protocol, or go halfway and do 3 year with patients who are 'low risk'? I can confirm that this message has gone through - was down at my vets 2 days ago and was talking to the vet nurse about vaccinations - I have had my reminder notice come through but was reluctant to go down the yearly routine and wanted to sound them out on 3 yearly - the nurse said 'Oh yeah, we got something on that today from the Vet Association, they recommend 3 yrs too." So there is hope out there..... (they still want me to come in for a yearly check up though....LOL)

I like this one my OH took it, and the doglets had just been doing zoomies all morning so they were looking happy (and a bit buggered)!

Definately the day before - otherwise I'd have to start at 2am!!LOL A lot depends on your breed, size, condition etc. Lappie coats are really easy to maintain and because they are a natural dog (no trimming) with a double coat (so you don't use a conditioner etc) they don't take much in terms of prep - except for drying out and boofing up - my boy in particular does take some time to dry out - even with the new whizz bang super duper dryer I've just bought!

If you are using a good quality shampoo etc you shouldn't have any problems - at least I don't. I use the plush puppy range. If I have a show one weekend after the next, I don't do the full wash and dry each week - just keep my boy clean (and yes, he is cream!) and boof him up before we go on. Has worked fine for us thus far.

Lappiemum, this is NSW and if you opt to a BA and TT, there is no avenue of appeal. You can opt to challenge an NOI in court but not the findings of the BA or the TT And I thought Vic was backwards....!

oh, I see holes in the court case already. Recently had the head of local laws at our council complain to me that it was unbelievably difficult to get a restricted breed declaration approved if challenged in court - appratnely they had lost another case that week (YAY!)

Hi LC- There's a groomer in my area (Seddon) who is very good. PM if you want details

I've been to both as an absolute beginner, and both were very good to work with. Peter did more about canine behaviour and psychology (a bit like the ceaser thing really), while I did a lot more running with Ashley! Either way i recommend that you see both and decide what suits your learning style.

Hi Blithespirit- I know of two conformation trainers - one is Ashley Reid (who works near KCC) and the other is Peter Frost (not the VCA President, another Peter FrostLOL) who works out of Bulla. I have been to both and they are both very good, although different in their approaches! Peter runs a group session (wed night) as well as personal training, Ashley I know does the one on one but I'm not sure when he does groups. If you contact the VCA you can get info from them, or else PM and I'll dig up the details. Oh, just to check you need to be a member of the VCA to show, and your pup needs to be on the main register. As for anything else, make sure you enjoy yourself and have fun!

Hi Nickojoy- Is HC and L2HGA recessive or dominant? Regardless, clear to carrier carries a statistical chance of a proportion of the offspring being carriers , but not affected by the condition (50% Clear, 50%Carrier) - in reality, however, such stats will vary considerably - you may get only a few carriers (or none) - or you may hit the jackpot and have all come up as carriers! Breeding carrier to carrier statistically has 25% Clear, 50% Carrier, 25% Affected (may develop disease) - although again this is not hard or fast! We test our breed for PRA and advise prospective buyers of the status of their potential pup; my philospophy is to only breed from clear lines (for reasons I go into on my website) but others in my breed do breed from carriers, and do so responsibly (my concern is more about what could happen should any bybers manage to get into my breed - sad, but I think as time goes on, probably inevitable). When we go to import (as we hope to do in a few years) one of the criteria will be that the import is PRA clear. I'd check the situation with your breed club, who should also be aware of the legislation in your state.

Hi Nickojoy- First, it depends somewhat on what the dog is a carrier of, and secondly, what state you are in! IMO (and speaking generally) if you have a dog that is a carrier (of whatever genetic problem) and you are just showing or have as a pet, that's one thing, but should you wish to breed from that animal, that's another. In Victoria, they have just released the Code of Practice for Responsible Breeding of Animals with Hertitable Defects that casue Disease (under the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act 1986) (see http://www.dpi.vic.gov.au/dpi/nrenfa.nsf/L...%20Disease.pdf) This Code legally binds all VCA registered breeders, and is aimed at giving the consumer some legal protection in relation to known genetically heritable diseases. Limitations on breeding and requirements of breeders depends on what kind of hertitable disease- the Code names a number of diseases, but there is always possiblity for that to be expanded at a later date. In terms of breeding, much depends on what kind of gene is defective - for heritable disease caused by a simple dominant defective gene the Code is much more restrictive that for disease caused by a recessive defective gene. In the first instance, breeding carrier to carrier is prohibited (unless as part of an authorised breeding program), and even breeding carrier to clear has requirements: progeny must be tested for the heritable defect; the severity of the disease in the Carrier progeny must be assessed by a veterinary practitioner and the animal managed in accordance with the instructions of a veterinary practitioner; a diseased (Carrier) animal’s must not be disposed of to another person without advice of the animals heritable disease status; a diseased (Carrier) animal must be de-sexed unless they are to be used in an approved breeding program and must not be permitted by their owner to suffer from their condition and must be under the supervision and monitoring of a veterinary practitioner. So in terms of carriers, you need to understand what the problems are with the breed and what any legal requirement may relate to these diseases. In my breed, we have PRA and heritable cataracts; PRA can be tested for and everything knows (at the moment) who has what, but testing for the cataracts is still being worked on.

Who says she has all problems? but i plan on buying a puppy i think save me all the hassles Hi Tinkerbell - From what you have said about just wanting another puppy, I think that's the smartest decision. I know you are very attached to your dog (baby! ), and things can - and do- go wrong in pregnancy and in whelping. Its a calculated risk that breeders take, hoping for the best and planning for the worst - but at the end of the day, you must also be prepared for the unthinkable to happen, and lose the entire litter and bitch too. No one thinks it will happen to them, but it does, esp if there are complications during the whelping (eg dead pup stuck inside, infections etc). good luck with looking for a puppy - its always lots of fun! - talk to lots of breeders before you decide (& you know what questions to ask!!)

Tinkerbell - breeding is something that is actually quite risky, and very very expensive, From your comments I assume that you didn't originally bought your girl with that in mind - which makes breeding even more problematic, as you don't know what the genetic history is, what the health issue are (esp in your girl's line) etc. Also, from my limited understanding of smaller breeds, there are often complications in either the pregnancy or the whelping in many of these that often require vet intervention (such as a ceaser, just to start with). So while I understand that you feel that its no-one business, all the people here are doing is trying to let you know that breeding is actually a very involved and difficult process. If your heart is set on being a breeder, the correct and ethical thing to do is be registered with your local state canine authority, and adhere to the ethics and guidelines set as part of this registration. The only reason for breeding is to improve the standard of your breed, so you will need to become very familar with that (btw - if you do everything that is actually required in terms of vet checks, health testing, stud fees, other vet fees, buying equipment, taking time off work etc etc, having puppies DOES NOT make you rich!!LOL). This is only the start though - you will need to do a lot of reading and research, and talk to other breeders - educate yourself, and others in your family. Its advisable to have an older (also registered and ethical!) breeder mentor you, and the whole process is very stressful - for all concerned. Once you have decided that you really, really want to do this, then you have to decide if your girl is best served by being your 'foundation bitch". Can you confirm her lines? Is she registered? Unless you can do these (just to start with) then I would look for another girl to breed with. Finally, please, please - do not ignore the advice on this forum and decide to 'just breed' anyway. There are thousands of puppies in pounds that are the end result of back yard breeding, with all kinds of health problems, and no-one who wants them. It is very important that you decide to be responsible and do what is right - not what is easy.

Please don't leave your puppy in the shed. There is a reason he is happier with you - you are his pack (family!) and he won't understand why you are making him stay away - in the dog world, that is a sign of pack rejection (never a good thing for the individual concerned!). Crate train your puppy inside - he will feel a lot more secure in the home environment with you around. There is lots of really good information on puppy training here on DOL and elsewhere online - any problems just ask!

Try fnding something that will be more of a mental stimulation; zoomies are good fun but physical exercise is only part of it - have you looked at some of the interactive toys? Play with other pups (med - large!) is also good; it also teaches puppy socialisation and is mentally stimulating. Let us know how you go!

I've always said that a new pup is good training to see if you're ready for kids.......LOL