Starkehre

Awesome award to gain Smoothiegirl, well done. and best of luck for sunday.

Well, I have no idea how far I will get through this list next year, but here goes... JAG - CCD + CD + ET titles + maybe get to a Tracking trial or 2, time permitting, so perhaps a pass or 2 on the way to TD. To have him over all reactivity would be an absolute blast. I think we are on our way there DYZNEY - HSBs + HSAd + maybe CDX (big maybe on the CDX, will depend on time plus her ability to stay fit for the jumping side) + hopefully TD title. Also for Dyzney and actually most importantly, keep her fit and healthy and alive. If she does not achieve any passes or titles next year, I will not be disappointed. I am happy to have her alive and well and that is all that matters. I also would like us to gain her Neuter Ch Title, but ot is a matter of how many affiliates will run neuter classes here in Vic. Going interstate takes a lot of time and organisarion. FAME - min 1 V rating + any points towards Champ title + CCD. She is only 5 months now, so we keep her list to baby steps ME - lose weight and get fit so I have the energy and passion to do all the training required to achieve the above :D

We use the Bunnings panels for everything They are very light weight, temporary, easy to affix into just about any situation, enough to deter most dogs. My rottis would not even both trying to go through, around or over it. You can use it the taller way if you wish. Cheap as chips.

Agreed, depends whom it comes from. To elaborate, if it is constructive and is coming from someone I respect, admire and I know has at least the same or more knowledge in the area that they are commenting on than I do, then I take it on board appreciatively and openly. Added, it also depends on the intent. To expain this, if the criticism does not come from a person fitting the above description, but it is clear that the person has no ill intent, perhaps they are just trying to helpful, then I listen, may take it on board if the comments have merit, but will certainly not be upset or insulted. Then on the other side of the coin, if this person is just trying to be horrible, I will try my best to give a friendly response.... then run away crying when no one is looking

Superbly explained espinay2 :birthday:

Along these lines that Bully is suggesting, I feel the same, but would add that I think it would be a great idea for the councils to also offer more tiered discounts off reg if the dog has titles (perhaps a further discount for every title) either ANKC or otherwise. I know that many pet people would not even know what a title on a dog is, but discounts for any training certificate or similar, anything to encourage people to do some training and even go that step further and get really involved in their dogs. Yes, set the base council reg higher, then offer a miriad of discounts for all sorts of dog involved things that owners can get into. Anything owners are proactively doing with their dogs has got to be on the way to the dog being more socially acceptable. and the more that owners are involved in their dogs the more likely they are to be responsible... we would hope.

Good luck.

How is Csan today Boke? Thinking of you and your poor boy.

Yeh, that would work too. Good one I have not got around to changing my brakes, but I know others that have. I am used to my bike and my dogs and I are very confident with the whole braking thing, but I can definitely see how rear brake use is far more ideal when dogging it on the bike. DaisyDog, no right or wrong way to do it. Whatever works for you is all good. As long as you and your dog are safe and everyone is having a great time, then go for it I say.

I would recommend leash in hand also. I would never attach the leash to the bike. Too dangerous for rider and dog IMO. 10 kms p/hr is average endurance (ET) speed. I have a wrist GPS that I have mounted on the centee of the handle bars of my bike, so I can check my pace, distance etc. I always train at an average of 12kms p/hr, but with a smaller dog it would be fair to train slower, maybe 8-10kms p/hr. Having said that, pretty much most breeds of dog can easily do 10kms p/hr over a distance once fitness and stamina is built up. There was a Schipp in my last ET, that passed with flying colors. For a JS, I personally would wait til the dog was at least 12 months of age before doing bike work. For larger breeds like mine, (I introduce them to the bike at a youngish age), but do not do serious bike work until they are closer to 18 months of age. Introduction to bike includes walking dog whilst walking bike, walking dog around bike, ringing bell and so forth. I also let the dog watch me lead another dog on the bike, passing them several times, so they get the idea and see how fun it is. I will even allow them to do a house length or two at a slow trot when they are 6-8 months of age, just to get the idea. A tip for serious dog/bike exercisers... swap your hand brakes over, so that you are using your rear brake with your right hand, instead of either trying to use your rear brake with your leash hand or using your front brake with your right hand. The bike slows way more smoothly using the rear brake and less chance the rear wheel lifting and the brakes squealing which can scare a dog when first learning. Also, for optimum strength and muscle building and creation of lovely top line, the dog should be gaiting. Enjoy, it is heaps of fun, I love it.

The grooming powder must be particularly annoying for owners of black dogs. Absolutely pf.

You've stolen 2 of mine PF ... People that let their dogs pee on your dog's crate whilst it is in it, even worse than gazebo Me and my dog getting covered in other's grooming powder.

That's great news Boke. Crossing fingers he is OK.

IMO all the "light" foods on the market are there purely for the owner's sake. Owners feed their dogs these foods so they feel they are still giving their dog as much food as the owner feels they need to give without feeling guilty that their dog is not getting enough food. The dog will be fine on 1 cup per day, but you may not need to be that drastic. If I need to strip weight I stick with the better food and just cut it back. As long as the dog is getting at least 1 cup per day of good quality food, then he will be fine. So, that said, just remove 1 cup of your dry to start with and see how you go. Don't give in to those pleading eyes. You and only you are in full control of your dog's weight. You will be onto it before you know it. Good luck.

Hope you get some more news on your little man soon Boke. Must have been such a shock For what it is worth it does not sound like an FCE to me. One of my GHs had and FCE several years ago. I do hope it is nothing serious. Take care and best of luck with him. Will be thinking of you.

Jag in his upside down crazy man position

Jag having his first bath.... not supposed to eat the bubbles

Could be Pia's urinating in the house coincides with wet weather? I have a "precious" bitch that is 7.5 years old, and still she gets all precious about walking on the wet grass to urinate and poo. Sure, she does not eliminate inside the house, so different to your problem, but instead chooses to go on the concrete. She has done this all of her life and I do not believe this will ever change. To avoid this as much as possible I ensure I keep the back lawn as low as possible all the time and particularly when the weather and ground is wet. Just a thought. Good luck. Yes, I would also suggest back to basics. I would pop her on lead to eliminate every few hrs and make a big fuss once she does. And ensure you clean all mistakes with a non-ammonia based product, maybe white vinegar.

IMO a "good" breeder will not allow an inexperienced puppy selector to choose their own puppy. Going by your previous posts, if I was you I would be disappointed in a breeder allowing me to choose my own puppy, unless you had spent many many hrs with the breeder and puppy on ,any occasiona prior to puppy selection... and this is probably unlikely. I would be going to a different breeder that could tell I did not know what to look for in a baby puppy and hence would do the selecting for me based on what I wanted to do with the pup/dog, my experience and my life style. All that said, I would choose a puppy that was outgoing, friendly, affectionate, recovering well to surprisea and fear and yet also showed some independance and not the roughest little bruiser in the litter, but that is what I personally like in a pup. Everyone's requirements are different. So, it really comes down to being mostly about you and getting the right pup for you. Best of luck.

Just got off the phone to Vic Dog, and yes breeders can alter any restrictions on pedigree forms ie Limited to Main plus the restrictions ticked on the back. I was ringing them about something else and though I would ask whilst on the phone.... but yes, all very doable. :rolleyes:

Awful situation for your friend. I hope she recovers without too much emotional distress. When I am out riding my bike with my dog in hand (I do this on a footpath as it is a shared bike/walking path) I do appreciate what a fright pedestrians and dogs being walked can get when you pass them. When I get within a range where I feel confident they can hea me, I say in a loud but very friendly and a smiley voice "friendly dog and bike coming up on your right" They always appreciate it and I follow it up with a greeting etc as i go by. Admittedly, not as easy for a jogger who is likely to be more out of breath and talking is slightly more difficult. But perhaps your friend might consider warning walkers in the future for her own safety. Of course she absolutely should not have been bitten and there is no excuse for that, but a reason and a possibly an avoidable reason for the future.

I'd be ditching the cup of beef casserole with cooked vegies. Not much nutrition in there plus beef can be quite drying. Everything else you are giving him sounds fine, but it won't be that casserole that is making his coat gleam. Then I'd be monitoring how his weight goes. if you required further trimming, I'd cut down on the dry a bit. My dogs get less than your boy and they weight up to 51kg. Let us know how you go with him. :D

GAH!! I don't even particularly have a soft spot for poodles but that would infuriate me! I used to get the same thing quite often.... when people would see my Black Standard Poodle Rose, they would often say, "I like your Labradoodle". She was clearly a nicely bred pedigreed SP bitch. Granted you don't see heaps of Standards around the streets, so I forgive these people, but it can be annoying can't it?!

This is really sad Sway, I feel for all involved including you of course. Obviously you are thrilled with these people as owners. I totally understand you not wanting to upset or insult them, but the only thing that concerns me about waiting a while before you let them know you are wishing to offer them another pup (and I think this is truly commendable BTW) is that what is they decide to get one elsewhere? Of course this is their perogative and no skin of your nose, but they may do this if they feel guilty and do not want to approach you again for fear that you may be upset with them, which I know is far from the truth. If they go elsewhere for a pup I know this doesn't really matter, but if you are so happy with them and would really love them have another pup (if they want to), then personally I would be inclined to give it a week or 2 and just gently mention it. I doubt they would be offended or upset. It may drag up emotions, but they could surely only be overwhelmed by your generosity and then take time to think it over. That's my thoughts anyway. If I was in their boots, I would be so taken with your gesture. I may not want the pup soon, but at least I would know what to do when I was ready. Whatever you decide, I am sure it will all work out. Best of luck with the situation and hugs to you.

My own fault Dyz for not reading the PDS thoroughly. They do state :- We reserve our rights to change the terms and conditions of the policy upon renewal. Their PDS also states:- The maximum we will pay for a single condition, a recurring condition or a chronic condition suffered by your pet is the maximum amount that was current in the policy period when the condition first manifested. Once this maximum amount has been paid we will not pay for any further treatment of that condition during the remainder of of the policy period or any other future policy period. Bronson's pneumonia is 90% resolved. Thanks for asking. Yes, these policies can be frustrating and sometimes confusing. Glad Bron is nearly all better now. take care.