Starkehre

Just to clarify above info more... to have a dog registered as a Neuter, it still has to go on Mains Register first, there is only one Mains Register, not a separate Mains for Neuter. So still via the breeder. The adjustment to Mains Neuter comes once mains has been achieved, via additional application, but perhaps they can be done at the same time?? However, if Bjelkier means that the breeder may be more likely to allow the dog to be shown as a neuter than an entire and if so she may allow the upgrade to Mains, then yes that is possible. That said, the criteria/Breed Standard for showing a dog is the same for a neuter as it is for an entire, except for the testicles on the males.

Very easy tip, walk your dog and the bike at the same time. as your dog becomes more and more familiar with the bike, weave the front wheel a bit, so he gets used to keeping out of the way. It will not affect his joints if you ride 2-3 house lengths at a time once a week. We do a fun exercise where one of us stands on the road/path holding the learning youngster, the other very slowly rides by and takes the leash as they go. ride a couple of house lengths, practising a slow 180 turn, then back again, passing the dog back to the person standing. Ride past them, turn around and do it again. The person standing can initially start off with doing a slow walk in the same direction and build up to static starts. Just some good drills for getting the youngsters used to the whole concept, whilst utilising an additional person to help calling etc to make it more fun and encouraging for the dog. With our breed, we usually slowly work up to around 2kms with a 14-16 months old. And do around 6kms by 20 months depending on gender and individual dog. Would prefer not to do an ET until close to 3, if not 3-4 years with our breed. Their endurance stamina seems to peak around 3-4 with bitches and 4-5 with dogs, so a bit tough on them expecting it any earlier. Smaller or lighter framed breeds develop stamina and endurance earlier.

I have had several BTs over the years juice and would love another one, but public perceptions are one of the reasons I don't go there. Not saying BT owners have it worse than Rotti owners, but I figure if I change breeds again I might save all the heartache and go to a breed that the public love... shame though

I'll vouch for that - I know some beautiful, versatile rotties. And have had the pleasure of judging the beautiful Seven in herding and witnessing her versatility first hand :) :D

Always exciting getting another dog :) Another rotti is a great choice. Please keep in mind that even a puppy Rotti should not be run unattended with an adult Rotti until at least 7 months of age either. It would be strongly recommended you segregate them within your yard or keep Abby inside when you are out. Rottis play rough and youngsters can get injured very easily. They injure themselves playing alone, let alone when running with an adult, even if the adult has all the very best intentions and is very gentle. And even if Abby is well past playing, the baby will endeavour to instigate play and annoy the crap out of her til she ticks him off... which is probably fine and all par for the course, but you need to be there to supervise these moments. Ears can get pierced easily, shoulders jarred, elbows knocked, tails broken, eyes ulcerated, toes sprung, all sorts of things can go wrong. We slowly introduce running together supervised from day 1. We slowly integrate running together unsupervised from around 7 months and wouldn't leave for more than 2 hrs at a time until around 9-12 months of age depending upon the carefully studied dynamics. Best wishes with your new puppy.

I'm not a Rottie owner, but I'd back you all the way on these. Thanks Mita Sometimes it feels like we Rotti enthusiasts walk a long and lonely road. If it helps the rotti's that come into the shelter I vollie at usually become staff and vollies favourites due to being such good all rounders :) They are amazing all rounders, you are so right TT. There are few breeds that can excel in so many different disciplines, sports, services and therapies as the Rottweiler and also be an absolutely amazing pet. Sure not suited to every owner, but there is very little that you cannot do with a Rotti.

I'm not a Rottie owner, but I'd back you all the way on these. Thanks Mita Sometimes it feels like we Rotti enthusiasts walk a long and lonely road.

If I could edit my breed in some way, it would be the stigma attached and the attraction for some types of owners. The breed itself is just awesome

Very welcome :)

Hi snifferhound. We had a similar criteria to you and have bought a 5 acre block in Heyfield. It is a beautiful area, quiet, dog friendly and only 2.5 hrs from KCC Park or less. We don't plan to build for another few years though. There are quite a few 5 acre blocks being developed and some lovely properties of similar size also. I have spoken with the ranger out there and they are quite easy going. Getting additional dog permits does not seem challenging. Can't quite recall the amount of dogs you could get permits for on 5 acres as we only inquired about 4, you would have to chat with Wellington Shire. Good luck with your search. :)

Hi CNB. Sorry I can't suggest a dog transport company, however I am on the peninsula and will be travelling down Bairnsdale way one day next week. I am incredibly reliable, very dog savvy and would be happy to assist if we could mesh our days/times... if that is of any assistance to you, please contact me.

Hi Sonic, sorry I can't help with advice on Peninsula Pets, however I am down this way and may be able to help you out. Make contact if you wish to discuss it further :)

Leema, for my casual recalls, I have no exact expectation for it to be correct. If I want the dog to keep coming closer and closer until they are within reach I will use a beconing finger, thumbs up or "yes, yes, yep" marker or tap my leg, just whatever works... and they all work. as soon as the dog is as close as I want it, I mark, reward, grab, release if appropriate or whatever suits at the time. so for me the informal recall is keep moving towards me until I say otherwise, but does not have to finish a certain way to be correct. :)

I have the formal recall which is "come" with all the "wait" set up and body cues etc. Then for informal I will usually just call "here". Occasionally I will throw something else in but I give my dogs the credit they deserve. I know I will not destroy a formal recall by tossing in the odd "come" informally as they can easily see it is a completely different scenario. My dogs always have 18-20 point formal obedience test recalls. I think we often get caught up in worrying unnecessarily about things like this when dogs can deal with this sort of thing very easily as long as we are aware of what we are doing and how it is affecting our dog and it's performance and responses to us. I find it frustrating when I hear people say things like they can't track their dog because it does herding. Or you shouldn't teach a show dog to sit. Absolute rubbish. My dogs all understand the "sometimes" situations and don't get confused. If it isn't working then it is more likely to be the handler having a control issue rather than the dog not being clever enough to work out the difference. Edited... my apologies Leema if I missed your OP point :)

Yes. One of the best & kindest vets I've known, said about his own dogs... That he'd never regretted putting one to sleep too soon. But he'd suffered agonies from putting one to sleep too late. And he meant even just a day or two. My rule of thumb is not to wait until the pet 'has to be put out of its misery'. But to pick the time before the slide into 'misery'. It's so, so hard, tho', even when you know this is the 'time'. +1 This is the rule I live by also. A very personal decision and we are all different. Best wishes Trisven.

I never ever use flat collars. Too easy for a startled puppy to suddenly back out of one. I always use a martingale collar that can never slip over their head. Teaching them to walk without pulling has nothing to do with the collar, it is about training. YES YES YES!!! :) Agreed 100% If you are having difficulty getting your puppy to walk alongside you without pulling, YOU need some training that you can then practise on your puppy. Good luck with it. It's not about the tool.

Flat collars up to around 3 months. Then martingales for training and outings. Once over around 7-8 months correction chains if needed, otherwise still martingales. Harnesses for tracking, retractables for emptying when away. Always nude at home over 3 months. I don't like flat collars. dogs slip out of them unless they are done up tight up behind the ears, then they slip down and get too tight on the neck. Martingales alleviate this issue.

I hate hate hate running with them My JRT is pretty lazy, I'm sure she has worked the pattern out and poops as far from the bin as she can. LOL, I have been known to put full poo bags in my pocket whilst taking the dog out on the bike... mmm, warm and squooshy... just not enough hands to hold it and I hate it slapping my hand as I pedal. :laugh:

I am another with allergies to dog saliva. I didn't put two and two together til I was in my 40s, LOL. Mine is not overly severe, just a nasty eczema break out, but it is extremely itchy and I can rip myself apart in my sleep if I am not careful. My most sensitive areas are where the dogs always seem to lick easily when you cuddle... neck and inside of lower arms. My dogs are taught to not lick and if they get me, I rinse within 30 seconds under running water and it is usually fine. If I have no water on hand, I use my own saliva to dilute it, all good. But yes, a real PITA at times, but much better now I know and can manage it. :) Added, I am not allergic to puppies til they reach about 4-5 months. And much more allergic to older dogs. I am convinced it is acidic levels in the saliva that get me going.

As always, so well put Steve. Posh, sorry for your situation, very sad and unfortunate.

How exciting. I love long term plans like yours. Sounds like the breeder likes and respects you and sounds you are going about it all a good way. Well done and good luck

KC, all breeders are different, even within the same breed. Some breeders charge more for show prospects, some don't. Some will only allow show prospects to terms homes with or without a cheaper price. Some will give away show prospects. Some will give away show prospects to show/breeding homes if they have previously had dog from that breeder, proven home. There is no general rule of thumb. I would say that the breeders I have known that sell puppies as show/breeding prospects for more than pet homes usually go between $300-$1000 more, occasionally more. Price difference if any from pet - show/breeding prospect will depend largely on the breed and usual breed price. Best wishes with your venture :)

LOL, I find the easiest way to get my head around the hair in the car... is to call it the "kennel" instead of the car and expect it... along with nose and tongue juice all over the windows. I have pretty much given up cleaning it and just say to myself that I will do so before I sell it :D

Personally I wouldn't be desexing any male unless I really had to. Particularly in larger dogs, the testosterone based muscle atrophy negatively impacts their body way too much for my liking, and this happens when desexed at any age, right through adulthood. You cannot stop it. Though I don't have any links to research, there is evidence to support higher incidence of ACL injuries in desexed larger breed dogs . There is also evidence to support that desexed males are more likely to get prostate cancer than entires are to get testicular cancer. All food for thought, but at the end of the day owners need to do what suits them and their lifestyle. If you must desex I would strongly recommend waiting until at least 18 months. If you are not expecting testosterone based temperament issues (and you can experiment with Suprelorin for this) and you still feel so strongly about altering your dog's reproductive system, then vasectomizing is a good idea.

Just about to say the same thing. Desexing a non sexually and physically mature dog that you intend to do extreme sports with is not a good idea IMO.