Bullbreedlover

You havent named the breed but there are about 30 odd which can develop JRD. Prognosis doesnt look good but early diagnosis can help. Despite the fact that several articles on Juvenile Renal Disease and Familial Renal Disease were published in veterinary journals in the 1970s, and many others have been published since that time, on JRD in Dobermans Pinschers, Alaskan Malamutes, Norwegian Elkhounds, Samoyeds, Standard Poodles, and Golden Retrievers, most individual cases of JRD are treated by owners and veterinarians as isolated occurrences rather than as the manifestation of a genetic disease. The type of renal disease, also called Renal Dysplasia, from which my puppy died, is also seen in Airedale Terriers, Alaskan Malamutes, Bedlington Terriers, Boxers, Bulldogs, Chow Chows, Great Danes, Great Pyrenees, Irish Wolfhounds, Keeshonds, King Charles Spaniels, Miniature Schnauzers, Old English Sheepdogs, Swedish Foxhounds, Shiz Tzus, Lhasa Apsos, Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers, Portuguese Water Dogs, and Yorkshire Terriers. It is just recently being seen in Golden Retrievers, a breed in which it had not before been recognized as a familial disease. Other types of genetic renal disease are also well known in Rottweilers, Shar Peis, Miniature Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Welsh Corgis,Pekingese, Shetland Sheep Dogs, Collies, Beagles, Basenjis, Bull Terriers and Cocker Spaniels, among others. Similar forms of genetic renal diseases may have different modes of inheritance in different breeds. Other forms of familial and congenital renal diseases seen in the breeds listed above include Glomerulopathy, Amyloidosis, Polycystic kidneys, and Fanconi-like syndrome. Symptoms Early symptoms of Juvenile Renal Disease include drinking copious amounts of water, something that might not be readily apparent in a house with more than one dog, frequent urination, and dilute urine which has little color or odor. Some affected puppies leak urine, many do not. Often a puppy owner's earliest complaint is about the difficulty of housebreaking a puppy later discovered to have JRD. The volume of water consumed, and, in some puppies,leakage of urine can make housebreaking a formidable task. As the disease progresses, vomiting, weight loss, anorexia, lethargy, and muscle weakness are seen. There is sometimes a chemical odor to the breath as a result of metabolic waste not being excreted by the kidneys. In breeds in which juvenile renal diseases are seen, symptoms may be noted as early as a few weeks after birth; and affected puppies are almost without exception symptomatic before two years of age. Some puppies fail to thrive: most grow normally until symptoms appear. Puppies with renal dysplasia may appear clinically normal for extended periods of time before developing signs of chronic renal failure. The rate at which renal dysplasia progresses to overt renal failure depends on the severity of the initial renal lesions. Dogs commonly do not exhibit clinical signs of renal failure until less than 25% of renal function remains. A dog with renal dysplasia affecting only one kidney may be symptom free, and the dog may live a normal lifetime. If a dog under two years of age is found to have an elevated BUN (blood urea nitrogen) and creatinine, and significant protein in the urine, as indicated by an increased urine protein:creatinine ratio, JRD should be strongly suspected. Abdominal palpation by a veterinarian may reveal small irregularly shaped kidneys. An ultrasound can be a useful diagnostic tool, since the kidneys are often atrophied and underdeveloped. It must be kept in mind, however, that kidneys from affected dogs may be normal size. The most accurate method for diagnosing JRD is a wedge biopsy from one kidney taken any time after the second month of life, or a histopathologic exam after death. A biopsy or autopsy of a puppy less than two months of age would not be fruitful, since the normally immature kidneys cannot be distinguished from those affected by JRD. The slides should be examined by an experienced pathologist. There are a number of pathologists who have a considerable interest in this disease. It is not reasonable to expect most puppy owners who are not breeders, to agree to a wedge biopsy, since a more accurate diagnosis will not affect the treatment or prognosis, and since the necessary anesthesia is not without risk. If the reduction in renal function is identified early, when only increased water consumption and urination are evident, medical management can be instituted immediately. Although the renal damage is not reversible, the quality and length of the puppy's life may be improved by early treatment. Treatment Treatments for the symptoms of JRD include a low protein and low phosphorus prescription diet, such as Hill's K/D. The predominant effect of the low protein diet is to minimize production of uremic toxins so that the patient feels better. Low protein diets may help extend life in dogs. Phosphorus is more important in this regard, since high phosphorus accelerates renal failure, and restricted phosphorus slows it down. K/D is low in phosphorus, so it remains a good food for dogs in this condition. In addition to diet, IV fluids can be administered to correct disturbances created by the retention of uremic toxins. Epogen can be prescribed to treat the anemia of chronic renal failure, resulting in improving the quality, and probably the length of life. Kidney dialysis for dogs is offered at several veterinary medical sites. The University of California, Davis, Veterinary Medical School is performing kidney transplants, but transplanted kidneys in dogs are commonly rejected, and involve an extraordinary expense and commitment. UC Davis will only do a renal transplant if the red cell cross matching and blood type is a perfect match. and if the tissue typing is also a perfect match. One of four healthy littermates of an affected puppy may offer such a match.

I am skipping Minor puppy class cause I cant really see the point in it. Its OK if you have a couple of pups the same age so you can split them. My baby(soon to be 6 months) while animated in the ring, is enjoying himself, but it is time to play with the big boys. I try to train my show dogs to enjoy what I would like them to do, but still have some animation. I guess it all depends on how committed you are to their career in the show ring. And how you want them to learn. Small, Medium and Large breeds all mature at a different age. Physically and mentally. What I would like to see in a 6 month old Bulldog, is totally different in a 6 month old Bullmastiff.

OK First of all How much are they drinking? What quantity of fluid on a normal daily basis. What breed are they and what food are they on and how is it prepared?

If she is not receptive to opening her mouth for the syringe, place it as far back as you can between her lips but I would not advise placing the syringe right at the back of her throat. She will probably gag on the food which would be very uncomfortable. If she will eat from the syringe willingly then steady the flow. And grab a BIG syringe from the vet. Hopefully the suggestions will help and good luck.

Chewing feet and scratching ears is not really "normal" as such but could indicate an underlying problem. It is fungal spore season(wet excema) at the moment which could mean that her feet are becoming irritated. I apply curash powder to my dogs feet if they are showing signs of irritation. Are they red or maybe a bit moist? Also if an ear infection is present this will be uncomfortable for them. Are his ears nice and clean and smell clean. If there is a discharge then ear mites could be the culprit. If you know of anyone close who can also advice then ask them. For these ailments MAY not need to go to the vet unless of course maybe his ears are really bad and may need flushing out.

I use Proheart for the Bullmastiffs and Bulldog. Monthly tablet. They all get theirs on exactly the same day every month at the beginning of the month. I also dose with Drontal(All when required as the Bulldog is a puppy. If and when they get their Drontal they get it in the middle of the month so the meds arent all given at the same time

I googled and came up with this easy receipe to follow... It wasnt hard to find I get a LOT of calls and email's asking about color breeding. People want to know what color puppies they will get if they breed this color to that color. What people do not seem to understand is that when dealing with colors in poodles and poodle genetics NOTHING is certain. All you can do is make a guess. With some research and knowing the background of your lines, one can make a more educated guess, but once again its just a guess. I have spent a lot of time and effort to study pedigrees and colors but even I am still learning. Especially when it comes to the multi colors its all still a guess. Vet gen does have a DNA test that will supposedly tell you the color genes that your dog carries. I will warn people that you should never bank all your money on that test. I have known of quite a few people that have tested their dogs and gotten strange colors in their litters that were not even talked about in the test. I am also unsure if this test takes into account the multi colors. I am going to take this page and talk about what I have learned and what I have had personal experience with colors. As I said before, nothing is certain, HOWEVER...there are some important DOS and do NOTS to color breeding. First off what you personally are breeding for in color, is what you have to take into account. Just throwing 2 poodles together and hoping for the best is NOT good breeding practices. Once you have established that two dogs are proper breeding material and that they offset each others faults, then you have to take into account, color compatability and what you are working towards in color. Most reputable breeders you will find will specialize in certain colors. Trying to work on too many colors at once can become frustrating and confusing, even though the temptation is great! Just throwing 2 colors together can seriously destroy the colors and their points (pigment of the nose, lips, eye liner, and pads are considered the points). Remember when talking about points that, Browns, Cafe Au Lait, and Silver beige should ALWAYS have liver color points. Where the breed standard states that liver is ACCEPTABLE in reds it is NOT preferred and really and truly should be looked upon as a fault in my opinion. All other colors should have black or self colored points. ANOTHER POINT TO CONSIDER Many colors are considered to be fading colors and will carry with them the fading gene automatically. These should be remembered before thinking about your breeding program Colors that are considered fading colors are: EVERY COLOR BUT BLACK! That means BLUE, SILVER, BROWN, CAFE AU LAIT, SILVER BEIGE, RED, APRICOT, CREAM, and WHITE. This also comes into play when talking about Multicolors and mixes of the above colors. You can pretty much count on a Sable ALWAYS carrying the fading gene and that the puppy will not stay the color that it is when it is born. THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT COLORS IN POODLES *Please do remember (and sometimes I even forget this rule), BLACK IS DOMINATE TO EVERYTHING!!!!!! *When thinking breeding in your program and what color is best to mate with your dog, you must remember when studying your dogs pedigree for colors that you also have to take into consideration the colors of the siblings of each dog. There may be a color hidden there that you did not know about and need to consider. Its a good way to tell the recessive color genes in your dog. *Most people are noticing that blues seem to carry the gene for ALL COLORS. This includes the parti colors. This is why many breeders think blues are a great basis for a breeding program, depending of course upon what colors you are breeding for. *The dogs being bred must carry the gene for that specific color in order for the puppies to be that color. For example, you will NOT get a parti colored puppy out of a dog that does NOT carry the gene for parti. *A color bred dog refers to a dog that has predominately only THAT color in their background. *A hybrid color bred dog refers to a dog that has predominately only 2 colors in their background. Such as a black/red hybrid or a black/brown hybrid. DO NOTS Here are some serious DO NOT's that you should think about when breeding poodles. DO NOT breed BROWN, CAFE AU LAIT, or SILVER BIEGE (Brown shades) to the following colors: RED, APRICOT, CREAM, or WHITE. Mixing of these colors will cause incorrect pigment on the points since the brown shades have liver colored points and Red, Apricot, Cream, and White should all have jet black points. DO NOT breed REDS or APRICOTS to the following colors: SILVER or BLUE. Breeding red or apricot to silver causes the color to fade even more than they already do as the silver and blue colors carries the fading gene. True I have bred blue to red before due to the fact that was what I had to work with at the time. But if you are truly working to deepen and darken reds and apricots and produce beautiful dogs that hold their color, you do not want to introduce any more of the fading gene into these already fading colors than you have to. When breeding BROWNS, to keep them dark and reduce fading and taking the above rules into account, DO NOT breed to the following colors: BLUE, SILVER, CAFE AU LAIT, SILVER BEIGE. These colors once again will introduce the fading gene into your browns that you are trying to keep dark. When breeding for icy whites DO NOT breed to the following colors: APRICOT and CREAM. These colors will ad a yellowish tone to your whites. However, there are some breeders out there that do breed for creams and off whites by using these color combinations. DOS Here are some very important DOS that you should think about when breeding poodles. Other than the absolute DO NOT's listed above, how you combine colors totally depends upon what your end goal color is in your breeding program. When breeding REDS, to keep them dark, to reduce fading, and keeping the points nice and jet black, DO breed to the following colors: RED and BLACK. When using a black every few generations in a red breeding program you will hopefully help to keep dark points on the puppies and also to darken their color. HOWEVER, be very careful what colors are in the background of said black that you do not inadvertently introduce more of the fading gene. I would pick a black that has an all black only background or even better a black that has an all red and black only background (black/red hybrid). Many people consider a color bred red to have apricot in the background. This is because apricot is a dilute of red so still in the same color family. HOWEVER, do not forget that this apricot causes more fading gene to be present in your reds, so the fewer apricots used the better to keep the color. When breeding BROWNS, to keep them dark and to reduce fading, DO breed to the following colors: BROWNS and BLACK. Breeding true blacks to a brown is a great way to help reduce the fading that we see in most browns. HOWEVER, once again be very careful what colors are in the background of said black that you do not inadvertently introduce more of the fading gene. When breeding WHITE, to keep the color icy white and keep the points jet black DO breed to the following colors: WHITE, SILVER, BLUE and BLACK. Remember white is already a fading color so breeding it to another fading color will not hurt the color. You really do have to be careful when breeding whites as it is easy to loose the pigment in the points. Putting a Silver, Blue, or Black in the background will help to keep these points nice and dark. When breeding for SILVER you will want to breed to the following colors: SILVER, SILVER BEIGE, WHITE, and BLUE. Your best chances exist when one parent being bred to these colors is a silver. When breeding for SILVER BEIGE (which is a VERY difficult color to reproduce unless breeding like color to like color) you will want to breed to the following colors: SILVER BEIGE, SILVER, CAFE AU LAIT, and BLUE. I would stay away from using whites, as I have said above, or you will have to worry about pigment on resulting white offspring.

In the eyes of an ethical breeder breeding to the standard it is important as cream poodles should have a black nose, lips and eye rims. It is one part of the standard sure. But it is still important As per my previous post, I would never breed from a dog, no matter how near to perfect it may be if it is of the wrong colour or if that colour may compromise my breeding programme to a particular dog.

In your opinion a good horse is never a bad colour but in my opinion a dogs colour as per the Standard is there for a reason. Genetic issues can arise from bad colour genes. Just as I wouldnt breed from a dog that had less than desireable health issues, I would also never breed from a dog whose colour was considered a fault within a breed. This in my opinion is just as unethical. I cant understand your post. You seem to contradict yourself. Preserving coat or point colour is called breeding to the Standard on that particular issue. Whilst no one will ever breed the perfect dog according to that Standard if you discount colour then dont breed. If a dogs Standard has no specific colour stipulations(ie, all colours permissible) then that is fine)

Oh yes Morgys all good. Thanks Back to the demanding old trout that she is. The battle is not over yet though. Stitches out next week. The only downfall now with having part of her jowl gone is that she does have some excess slobber The price you pay for a "nip and tuck". I think some aged Hollywood starlets have the same problem post plastic surgery/jowl lifts...bit of drooling. ;) Glad she's on the mend. Yes, you will have your work cut out for you taking those stiches out. :D oohh I have the "special tool" for that. Suture removal blade. Quick as. Concidering she is such a fidgit arse. She is healing really well and to be honest I think she is feeling like a box of fluffies. She is happy.

Here you go http://www.wkc.org.au/Characteristics.php Thanks I was obviously looking in the wrong place.

So the WKC doesnt actually have a written "standard" as such. Interesting.

All I can say is....Dont believe everything you hear, especially by farmers out west ;)

Yep he certainly is. Although he is not the sharpest tool in the shed. We have a house on piles. The dogs can fit underneath it but us mere humans cant so when Mojo is out and it has been or is raining he has to go out on a lead. No ifs or buts about it. We are on black soil and we have learnt our lesson with trying to un black a white dog As well as having 10 foot tall Bullmastiffs whenever they run on the bare black soil. We also have a couple of contours out the back and we get the water run off from lots of neighbours around the place when it rains. Well....Mr Mojo loves the rain and he loves the huge puddles and run off we have. Wanting to go for a paddle all the time. OH had Mojo out this morning but instead of having the lead on him, OH was holding the choke cain part and Mojo had the lead part in his mouth. So they wander over to the back and Mojo wants to play in the big puddles. But he cant because he is on the lead, except he was only holding the lead If he had a brain all he would of had to do was let go of the lead and he would be in I growled OH when he told me cause I would have to be the one to bath a dirty dog in this cold horrible nasty weather

Oh yes Morgys all good. Thanks Back to the demanding old trout that she is. The battle is not over yet though. Stitches out next week. The only downfall now with having part of her jowl gone is that she does have some excess slobber

Not in all breeds. In SOME breeds the entries at UK shows are consistently lower than the same breeds in other places in the world... And in the UK at some shows there are breeds which do not have challenges on offer. edited to make sense

I mean...lets face it If a judge wants to put up a baby Best of Sex, or even God forbid Best of Breed chances are they(judge) wouldnt be looking at the adults she also had in the line up for anything further in group anyway. So they cant get points...so what. Isnt it all about judging dogs and finding the Best Specimen on the day in the Breed/Group/show.

Bet you accepted that challenge with a grin??? Two days out of baby I am not saying challenge points should be available to babies. But that they should be able to enter the ring for Best Dog.Bitch and compete for Best of Breed. But they are just deemed NOT ELIGIBLE as such. Bet a few people out there would be gutted that their dog or bitch got beaten by a baby on the day. But the system does work. People just have to see past the "OMG its a baby" thing The thing is that judges are judging them on the day as they are in the flesh. No one can predict what a baby is going to be like 6 months down the track, just like a 6 month old puppy can go off track by the time it turns 12 months old.

Much to Morgans disgust she had a small soft dinner. Then I took a couple of pics. I am glad I didnt post a pic of her before the op cause I am sure not everyone wanted to see a very yukky lump But here she is now. Left side of her face and op side. I will take the stitches out in about 10 days but the vet said she should heal good and she didnt require any pain relief. She is still just a little wobbly on her legs so has taken refuge on the couch :D

Morgan is great She is sitting here at my feet wanting her dinner LOL That girl has food as her best friend. She was devastated this morning when she didnt have breakfast. All went good. Good chuck of her lip missing. We didnt get it sent away. There was no point. She is an old girl. But the vet said he thought it was definitely cancerous looking. Barking for her dinner now

Off to pick up Morgy baby now

Thanks It has been worrying her now the last couple of days as she is pawing at it. Her daddy is taking her to the vet early in the morning. And I will pick her up in the avo.

Mr Mojos new toy. He loves it. The Bullmastiffs arent allowed it. They would destroy it within minutes

Am just going out to let the girls out. Will give her your hugs as well. She is one spoilt girl

Thanks so much. Morgan is our beautiful brindle girl. If you enlarge the photo you can see the lack of pigmentation on her jowls. And you can just see the development of her lump on the bottom peice. It is this that has developed into something very nasty. I will take a pic tomorrow and post another one of what it is like now. She is not worried by it, but it does hurt her when I touch it. She doesnt like it one bit.