megan_

I got order # 3 this morning, which included my new shoes. They are a tad snug, but with light socks they should be okay. I'm very impressed with the quality of them, given that I paid $99. The udder tug will get a work-out tonight, fingers crossed they love it.

thanks

I'm seeing someone who is considered to be one of the best behaviorists in Australia, so I have no doubt as to the value they add ;). In addition to obedience exercises inlike to give my dogs fun, mentally stimulating things to do. In addition to this, many people have to save up to see a behaviorist. What are they meant to do in the meantime. Personally I am confused as to how someone could find "offense" (for want of a better term) a thread about ideas on how to give reactive dogs a bit of save exercise?

As my post said, these are ideas to help exercise your dog while it is being rehabilitated. Dogs with issues still need mental and physical stimulation. Some (a lot) of dogs with issues will NEVER be able to go to an offleas park and run with other (often uncontrolled) dogs. I started this thread to help share ideas for exercising dogs in a safe manner, as there have been a fair few posts over recent months where peoPle feel they must give their dogs off leash exercise. FWIW, I have consulted more than one behaviourist and continue to do so. My dog gets regular obedience and agility training. She will never be safe to run off leash with strange fogs and people in an uncontrolled environment. Years of constant abuse means that she can go from being happy and relaxed into full-on attack mode in the blink of an eye.

Due to the closeup of the hand in that photo Katey looks like a wee pup!

Thanks - I've never driven on Sydney roads but I think getting accomodation near the event where Fergs will be allowed to sleep inside would be pretty hard at this stage. Now to ask the sister....

As per the title, I need to buy a small dumbell and have it by the end of the month. Is there anywhere that I can get one in Melbourne (SE 'burbs preferred)?

Thanks. So does the dog need the bone offering for it to be getting a balanced meal, or if there was no bone ever fed would the diet be balanced? I ask because the instructions on the packet only ever refer to meat.

When I got my pupu I had time off work (it just happened that way). I left him alone for a period every single day and he got used to it very quickly. I even gave him free reign of the house and access to the tiny "garden" via a dog door. Of course I kept dangeous things out of his reach. Maybe I was lucky but no furniture was ever chewed and he never got up to mischief. I started as I intended to live with him throughout his life. He is crate trained but I wouldn't leave a dog in a crate for the 12+ hours that I'm at work. He is comfortable being left at home either alone or with my other dog (who I got after him). ETA: I think DOL contributes to the problem too . Too many "DON'T do this, don't do that, if you aren't crate training you'll ruin your puppy" sentiments sometimes. I've even read threads where most posers say you shouldn't leave your grown dog outdoors, and the dog is better off locked inside the house...

Where is the calcium? Why no meaty bones?

Stupid question....my sister lives in Balmain. How feasible would it be to stay there and drive every morning to get to the arena (given I have never driven in Sydney before...)?

I've been meaning to start this thread for ages. I often read posts about people exercising their DA/reactive dogs in off leash areas to give them exercise. I wanted to start a thread that would list alternatives and give those of us with reactive dogs ideas on how we can keep our dogs mentally and physically sound. Of course this doesn't replace seeing a behaviourist to help deal with the issue, but often this takes time to resolve and, even with the best help, you may land up having to manage the issue for the dog's lifetime. I'll start off with a few ideas, but please feel free to add any. A few ground rules though: * Safety of the community and other dogs is the # 1 priority, so all suggestions need to keep that in mind * Ideas need to be in keeping with the law IDEA 1: A muzzle is your friend For a long time I was very resistant to use one. People would assume my dog was aggressive etc. It would be a pain to put on before a walk. She'd look like something from a horror film. I bit the bullet a few months ago and now I love her muzzle. Does it do much for her? I don't know, but is helps ME relax. When I'm relaxed, she is more relaxed. It also means I can work her in areas that I used to avoid because I was afraid of the risk of her lashing out. She is ALWAYS on lead when off my propery though. Please don't put a muzzle on your dog and then take them off leash. Dog fights start well before the first bite and your dog can send all sorts of messages to other dogs (I'm going to get you!) even with the muzzle on. Chances are the other dogs won't realise that your dog can't bite them and they will (very understandably) often fight back. So treat your dog just like you would if they weren't using a muzzle (give them space, on lead etc). I use a plastic Jafco muzzle so she can still breath and I cut a tiny hole in it so that she can recieve treats as it is very important to reward good behaviour. I got my muzzle from k9pro, along with a free muzzle desensitisation explanation. IDEA#2: Exercising the mind with the clicker/marker word and free shapping I'm not going to do a whole post on this, rather take a look at Shirley Chong's stuff. There is so much you can teach your dog with a clicker or marker word, a box and an emply toilet roll. Total cost: a few dollars. IDEA#3: Targetting This is really a subset of idea 2, but it provides my dogs with a lot of fun. There are many different types of targetting that you can teach (nose to object, pawy to object, bottom to object) but one of our favourites is nose to a standing target. I got mine from cleanrun but anything that you can stick in the ground will suffice. The game: I put them in their crates, hide the target in the house (now I can get complicated by hiding it behind doors etc) and then release them one-at-a-time to "find it". They race out and search each room to find it, touch it with their nose and get a click then treat. This is a great game to play ona rainy day and it only takes a few minutes (each gets two goes). How I taught it: i) I taught them to target the object (they already understood the clicker. ii) I put them in their crates and pu the target directly in front of them. I opened the create door, said "find it", they ran to it (it was right there), nose touch, click treat. iii) Repeated step ii) making it more further away each time, then hid it simply from view etc. I'll try to find a video of them playing this too. IDEA#4: Bubble machine. Speaks for itself. Great for dogs with a decent prey drive. Mine cost me about $20.

In these situations (basically, any agro bogan/know-it-all) it is best to walk away without saying anything. By arking up you can put your dog in danger (you never know the mental soundness of these people). Dogs pick up on our emotions too and we don't need them to start stressing out and becoming reactive. It is very hard to ignore the morons but I now try to block them out and not over-think the situation - I don't want to let other people ruin my day any more. This morning I got screamed at by someone because I crossed the street as she jogged towards me with her off leash dog. My dog is reactive and was on leash (but of course, I'd be blamed for having an aggressive dog) so I took evasive action. Her reply? Not a thank you, but a "You're sh*tting yourself!".

Just check that they can do x-rays, otherwise it might be best to go direct to a vet that can.

I love seeing the Pics of your dogs working

I love seeing the Pics of your dogs working

That really sucks WA - pregnant women train at my club, well into their pregnancies.

I got a card in the mail but I won't be able to pick it up until I work from home next week as our post office is closed on saturdays.

Reewal - what is she like out in the big wide world? Is she fearful then? If so, I'd focus on addressing this rather than a specific problem (ie see a behaviourist). I have a fearful dog (she was abused) who used to be really timid and now has fear aggression. I forced her to do too many things when she was giving me the "I'm scared" signals and I would never do that again. If it is just the doors that are a problem, then I'd: * teach her a marker (either "yes" or a clicker). To teach this just say "yes" and shove a treat in her mouth. Repeat many times in many different places. To test if she understands say "yes", hold back on the treat and she if she looks at you. * then I'd start marking looking at the door. She'll soon get the idea that door = treats. If she goes closer, mark and treat. Basically mark anything to do with the door. * if she's struggling, stand closer (but not next to) the door, call her and if she comes "yes" then treat. Don't use the treats as bribes, use them as rewards. This method takes longer to teach but you'll establish a marker which can be used throughout her lifetime and she'll associate the door with good things.

*don't look at pictures of giant puppies*, *don't look at pictures of giant puppies*, *don't look at pictures of giant puppies*...

Hence the reason for asking about average price. Puppies advertised here at $2000+ has them looking at BYBs instead. Those would be the "rare" blues though. Tell them to get a brindle - they'll be the only one around .

Beware that they don't actually need to declare that something contains ingredients from China. Anything that says "Packed in Australia" or "Made in Australia from local and imported ingredients" often contains ingredients from China. I always ask and get told " the supplier is Australian". That means nothing. An Australian company could be importing Chinese ingredients. I always check the origin of the ingredients and if it isn't 100% clear I give it a miss. The only commercial treats they get these days are the odd pigs ear anyway.

I'm going to Mia Forgot-how-to-spell-her-surname in late Jan and then the Derrett's in February (I go to 2 different clubs with 2 different handling systems so I've settled on this one so as not to confuse the dawg even more). All this means is no Dunbar for me, as I would have already spend over $800 on these two alone . I also like how these are hands-on - I learn a lot better this way.

He modified the post so now it isn't an advetorial

And we have a year to save!