megan_

Why did the dogs take a year off trialling? Was it because the rules are different?

Where does he get fed? Try putting his food bowl in the crate, he should be interested then. Lots of "good boy". There is a DVD with crate games, but no matter what approach you take make using the crate a bit of a game. Smile, use a nice happy voice, lots of praise and rewards (every second for 20 seconds) when they go in the crate. All dogs need to eat. When a dog isn't interested in food rewards it is often (not always) because they get too much "free" food. My dogs don't get any free food - they work for everything. This way I don't need to use treats - just their standard food. Saves me a fortune and keeps them healthy and happy to "work". My dogs only sleep in the crates and use them when needed (eg I'm at a training ground and working with one of them, the other is in the crate). I personally would never leave a pup in a crate for more than a few hours max. There are some people who say that a pup should be in a crate unless you are actively supervising and interacting with the pup (ie not cooking dinner, talking to partner etc), but I don't see how the pup wouldn't land up being crated for 22+ hours a day, even in a household that does lots of training. I can understand why some working dogs/crazy destructo dogs might need it, but if your dog is a pet it is best that they learn how to live nicely in your house. If you are home and your dog isn't going on a rampage, why the need to crate them?

This is where time witha trainer 1:1 can help. The thing with positive re-inforcement is that you need to get in BEFORE he jumps on anyone, which is where the lead and taking teeny tiny steps helps. This is where "Look at That" is really powerful. I have a fear aggressive dog that can be around people and not react if we play "Look at that". Once a dog is beyond the threshold (eg jumping) it is too late to then try and contain things (of course you must correct him, but he's still getting the fun of jumping on someone and it sounds like that is outweighing the correction). I'm teaching my two an alternative behaviour, My boy is great and doesn't jump on people but my girl is fear aggressive and territorial - she goes in her crate when people visit. She takes queues from him so I'm teaching them both to go to their crates when visitors come over. To give you an idea of what I'm doing with my two: Desired outcome: Doorbell rings, dogs run to crates straight away, they don't come out until I release them. What my dogs already know: When I say "crate time" they run to their crates straight away. They also know their release word ("play). If your dog doesn't know these things then you teach these first. What happens when people come over and we haven't got the training 100% yet? I say "crate time" they go to their crates and I lock the naughty one in! This way, they aren't getting rewarded for naughty behavious when people come over (at the moment, your boy is being rewarded by jumping on people. It is a lot of fun!). How I'm training it: i) I got a doorbell from bunnings and removed my current one (so that people have to knock for the moment). I have the doorbell inside. I ring it, say crate time, they run to their crates, reward, reward, reward, release. Yay! They think this is the best game ever. I keep it light and fun. When we've got this down pat I'll move to step 2. ii) I'll try ringing the doorbell and not saying "crate time". If they run to their crates, they have got the connection that door bell = run to crate. If they do this there will be lots and lots of rewards, good dogs, omg-you're-so-smart, big party time. If not, we go back to step 1. We'll play this game lots of times. iii) Then I'll get someone who is very neutral and listens to my instructions. I'll get them to ring the doorbell, but not come in. If they run to their crates, rewards etc. If not, we go back to Step 2, no big deal. Repeat playing this lots of times, remember it is a game and must be fun for your dog. This game will be better than jumping on people. iv) Then we'll have someone enter the house! If they run to their crates I'll reward them with an entire meal. I'll release them once the person has left (I think). Then only release them when the person is there. This might seem like a lot of work but we're really talking about 1-2 mins per day over a few weeks/maybe months. It also teaches your dog self control and helps wear him out.

Dangerous dogs are different that restricted breeds. A dog can only be declared dangerous after it has done something.

When he does focus on you - even for a second - what do you do? How do you reward him to let him know that focus = good? Have you tried the Triangle of Temptation (ToT) posted on the top of training? I also hold out a treat with my arm extended out to my side. Dog looks at treat. You say and do nothing. Dog gets frustrated and looks at you with WTF? expression. The instant the dog looks at you "yes" and then give a treat from your other hand (treats in pocket/on counter etc). The dog will quickly learn that looking at you earns the treat, not looking at other things. I'm in the process of training my two to run to their crates when the door bells go (they do this on command with "crate time!" but I want it to be automatic). They know once they're in, they have to wait to be released. Maybe try training something similar (using baby, baby steps)? In the meantime, keeping on a leash or in a crate is a good idea. With respect to the school, a lot of schools around are very old fashioed and don't train with motivation in mind. Find somewhere that sees your dog's enthusiasm and outgoing nature as a bonus and harnesses it! ETA: LAT is fantastic too! I have a reactive dog that was in a park full of kids yesterday and she remained calm and focused on me (before anyone jumps, she was a safe distance away from the kidlets at all times). I trained it without a clicker - just "who's that" and shoved a treat in her mouth.

the SAfeway homebrand ones are good (they have handles) and are cheap

What is she allowed to chew? How much mental stimulation does she get? She has learnt that you being home = you not bring as cautious with your things = more things to chew.

No one is saying they'd select a dog on looks alone! It is a hypothetical and is really about which breeds are the best looking

Is it normal for a healthy dogs eyes to go red in the heat? Genuine question: I've never heard of that before

As statement and kirty have pointed out a vet certificate from a specialist doesn't mean the dogs eyes are okay.

I'm sure there are a lot of rumours on a lot of forums - I wouldn't place much value on a rumor like that

I dint have a problem with overnight and taking to the vets, but if no chip is found I'd rather my dogs go to the pound and not kept by someone (which I know the Op wasn't trying to do, but it is what saxonsmum seemed to be implying).

Saxons pup - this dog is at NO risk of PTS. someone can put their name on him so when his time is up he can be sprung from the pound. There would be plenty Of people wanting to adopt him if his owners couldn't be found. Any smart rescue group would snap him up quickly. Your intentions are good but if you hold onto a dog you reduce it's chances of being reunited with it's owner. Things get lost in translation eg Aussie becomes BC. Good owners go to the pound and eyeball the dogs so that nothing gets missed. These threads make my stomach churn because i imagine someone holding onto my dogs if they get lost, all while I frantically search pounds and streets for them.

Giant schnauzer

The message to me is that some purebreds are unhealthy and the KC is finally going to do something about it. Most dogs passed the vet inspection. While I think it could have been executed better (more than one vet for example) I'm glad they didn't go down the American route and hit the ignore button.

I think there should be 2- 3 vets, who are specialists (ie know a lot about physiology). Due to privacy, we won't know why the dogs were disqualified unless the owner wants to let the world know - which I doubt they would. While it is ham fisted, the purebred world has had a long time to fix these issues, and there hasn't been significant progress. They had a choice to do this or have it done to them via government regulation. As for vetting afterwards, I think it sends a much more powerful message to both competitors and judges. If it was all behind closed doors, breeders left without notice etc then the message would not have been as powerful. People could just say "we felt unwell so we left". It is wrong to breed dogs that have problems breathing. Full stop.

The title of that blog is "Crufts Campaign Against the Purebred Dog". TAlk about hyperbole!

Why would that concern you? IF the quick vet check says "all is okay" this doesn't mean your dog is in 100% health. I'm glad they're doing this. Yes - it is very public and could damage some reputations but they needed to do something very public. Also, I would imagine that if you are breeding extreme dogs (or awarding them) you'll be thinking twice now.

Thanks!

Does anyone know the date and time of this? The Club website just says it is in Bulla in March...

IS it appropriate for slightly reactive dogs (just doesn't like dogs coming up to her uninvited)?

She needs to be taken to a vet that understands physiology well - most vets don't. She may have pain but playing, running after the other dog is worth it and so she breaks through the pain barrier. A few months ago my boy started avoiding jumps at agility - just the odd one here and there. I took him to the regular vet and he was given the all clear. My boy still ran and jumped at home chased the ball etc but the problem became worse at agility. I thought it was motivational so I did more motivational stuff and the problem just got worse. It got to the point that, when we arrived on ground, he would give calming signals immediately and would run off when let off leash. I then saw a vet that races greyhounds who is well known for his trigger point therapy. Fergus' entire left side was completely stiff! He would still chase a ball, jump when playing etc because his prey/play drive would override the pain. So...just because a dog plays and the vet says everything is okay, doesn't mean everything is okay.

I don't think it has been announced yet RubyStar. Do you get the Agility Click emails from Cathy Slot? That is where she has given us a heads up.

Yes - around about the same time as the derret's foundation course :-(

Methinks a fair few of the "want entire, have 7 acres etc" would be puppy farmers in disguise anyway. Great profit margins to be had from breeding free dogs