megan_

I'm still going to the club, but not to the classes. I'm working Lucy around the club house with LAT and getting her to do some training there. It is more useful for her and I don't get annoyed at having to do extensive heeling after 2 classes. I then get fergus to do agility at 11. Lucy is enrolled at agility at franktson starting in 2 weeks rime. She works really well off leash and doesn't ever go looking for trouble. I'll let them know that I don't want other dogs in her face though. I'm really looking forward to it. I've also looked at southern which has a training philosophy that is much closer to mine (you need focus before you can actually train). Id also like to go back to cosmolo's classes - the problem is fitting it all in!

X-rays don't pick up all obstructions. They only way to really know is to open them up.

I started their foundation course 3 weeks ago. 5 people got in but only 2 of us actually turn up, so a lack of instructors doesn't seem to be an issue.

Greg derret says put some raw chicken in a sock and get them to tug that. If they don't, then don't feed them for a day and try again. Ine of the reasons that dogs don't tug is because we've always let them know biting and resisting is bad, being placid is good. It takes time to relearn those lessons.

If my dog was being attacked I would want people to step in and help, not to just walk away. I understand the OP is upset, but it might be worthwhile always having an eye on the dogs and to call them away from the gates when someone enters. Good manners and the while situation could have been avoided.

People who obviously gave an agenda (pedigree dogs are superior and breeders should just be left alone to do what they want) having a go at someone for allegedly having an alternative agenda. I don't know why you even bother coming on DOL Corvus, some people just want to stick the knife in no matter what you say - but I'm glad you do.

Sorry if I've given the wrong impression - I too am a newbie and have never trialled. I put myself on every waiting list I could find when my boy was 1 - he's now 4 - and trained at erny's before I got into a club. I'm now redrafting my girl. I sent an email to frankston 2 weeks ago and they said we're in - no tests, no waiting lists. I also zoned my boy up to croydon. He showed one sit-stay and walked on my left for a few paces and he was in. We went on a waiting list but started the next week! There are only 4 people in this class. There was room for more but no one else had signed up. It is hard to get into the elite clubs (my girl didn't get into action dogs - 10 spots and 35 dogs tried out), but there are places out. With respect to a handling system - ie how youre going to use your body to tell your dog what to do - my suggestion is to pick one (or just adopt the one the club uses) and go with it. I didn't do this at first and I'm paying for it now.

Where abouts are you? Is there a vet that does chiro near by? A slipped disk or similar can cause these issues

None of the specialist clubs require advanced obedience. Action dogs is the only one that even requires an assessment. All the dogs Vic clubs are run by volunteers who also train their own dogs. I've been to action dogs and now go to k9 and a lot of the volunteers are the same people. K9 didn't take in a second foundation course this year due to the grounds being resurfaced. Were training somewhere else at the moment which is much smaller so we can only train every second month. For my next dog I'm going to use the club to practice on equipment, but I'll do my own training. There are so many great resources out there at the moment. Be aware that action dogs uses a different handling system to croydon (ie the way you tell your dog what to do), so I suggest picking a system and always using that one.

I'd call it "working with other fogs around". Most peoPle think socialization is playing. When does the new course start?

Re passing classes, the criteria need to be simple - some clubs want people to pass complex heeling with auto sits in beginners - that is very demotivating, especially if you want to teach it properly.

I like feedback from instructors on how were going and what we should work on, rather than a formal assessment. I like the sheets you prepare cos, even though I sometimes think licy did better than her score!! I think compared to most places your classes are interesting and have small groups. My 2c is that I'd prefer a course to be 6 weeks, because often people just seem to be getting it and the class is over. The first class I did with you way back when was our most enjoyable. The group I was in had basic sits etc, so we did exercises like walking past your dogs, LAT with other dogs. It kept things moving and these are things that people often struggle with. Personally, I'd drop the heeling all together and teach something like "check in". I use this with fergs when he's off leash and I want him to stay close but I don't want him to do a formal recall. I think "go to your mat" or crate would be very useful for pet owners too. Some control games like "it's yer choice" could help with impulse control too and they're fun to play with your dog. I also think prt owners could use a hand target to help with NILIF - teach them to ask for it before a pat or treat. This helps develop manners. I'd love a little take home sheet with a summary of what we've learnt - it is so easy to forget. I agree that most people wouldn't enroll in a focus class, but I think it could be snuck in - starting off with bar open, bar closed, playing a game as a warm up etc. Most people are still old school and need to be told that their dog is self rewarding for focusing on other dogs so their reward rate needs to be very high and actually practice giving 10 treats in a row very fast. Things like marker words could be snuck in too - they make life so much easier.

Tillers I'll take it if it is still there. I can pick it up at frankston when I start agility with my MS there

The southern program include a compulsory socialization class where you learn to get your dogs focus before you commence the other training levels. Sounds promising

No test at frankston

For many clubs and training events they don't let you tether your dog. Leaving them in the car isn't always an option either.

Yip - it is against the law fr anyone to keep an animal that is injured in pain.

Doh! Thanks

On a Saturday, but frankston is about to start a foundation course next week. I believe it is run by some of the action dogs volunteers. Croydon also has agility on Sunday. You can get in if your dog does some basic obedience. Fergs just had to sit/stay and do a little bit of heeling (I haven't really taught heel) and he was in.

The only attack stories I've seen in the paper ate ones when humans get attacked going about their own business walking their dogs down the steer - very newsworthy.

Petplan is under allianz so has different - and much better - terms. For example, if you dog has an ongoing illness, the others either exclude that illness from future claims or only let you claim to a total of the annual amount over the life of the dog. Petplan let's you claim the annual limit every year. They are more expensive but worth it IMO. Remember with pet insurance you need to pay upfront and then claim it back.

Can you dig a little trench and fill it with concrete? Allternativle, place pavers around the inside of the fence line - she digs, they fall.

Boston terriers are very, very active dogs. They're also very rare - much more so than franchise. How much exercise are you willing to give the dog every day? I used ho live in a house with no garden and the thing to remember is that you need to exercise them rain, hail or shine because this is the only outside time they get. I also believe they need morning and evening sessions every day to break things up. Dogs also need vitamin D which can be hard in winter when thru can't sun in the yard while you're at work.

yip. Not quit the same but I read Susan's blog the other day and she had a really good article about being weary of increasing the criteria for any type of game/stay etc so that the dog doesn't become disengaged or distracted. Of course looking at you doesn't mean they're distracted, but it is easy to land up rewarding the dog for relaxing when you push the criteria more and more. You don't want a relaxed dog, you want them to be focusing on that treat, body stiff, ready to go for it but just holding themselves back. I realised I have pushed to far with my boy's sit/stay. I practice it and push and push and I land up rewarding himfor being relaxed, rather than rearing to go/just teetering on the edge. Greg Derret said something very similar: get into position and go go go, don't paff around adjusting your hair etc.

The way I do it - and this could be wrong! - is to hold my hand out at their eye level with my hand open. As soon as they try to grab the food my hand closes so they can't get to it. I don't reprimand them or say anything at all. When I first did this they sniffed and pawed a bit. Then as soon as they move back, I open up my hand. Repeat. Then once they sit back and wait for a millisecond I mark and they get the treat. It is all about self control.