megan_

Listing on the DOL page means they're registered and have paid for a listing - nothing more. I'd definitely look into health testing - especially hip scores.

Good post Snook. Many people don't realise that a dog can be really traumatized even if they AREN'T attacked. All it takes is subtle body language or an over-enthusiastic "don't worry, he's friendly" dog to hurt yours. I witnessed this at an off leash oval this weekend. A very enthusiastic dog came to the park so we left immediately. Another very hyper dog joined and as we were driving off all hell broke lose and there was a huge fight. Neither dog was out looking for a fight, they were just too aroused. Their owners thought they were just playing until it was too late. Unfortunately the husky owner didn't leave after the fight and I saw it showing very predatory behaviour to a small dog - the owner of which was oblivious. I love having off leash areas for dogs, but the more I've learnt about them the more I feel large packs of strange dogs are a recipe for disaster - and most dogs don't seem to really enjoy it anyway. A 1:1 play session with a dog that has an appropriate play style is far more enjoyable for them - and much safer.

I believe that PetPlan is the only one that doesn't exclude an ailment you've claimed for it. I've gotten over $8k back and my dogs are young and healthy. Sometimes bad things happen. Wouldn't be without it.

I'll PM you as I'm very interested!

If you're renting I think it is easier to find a place if you have a small, cute dog. Showdog - how do you think a mini would cope with the lifestyle described, especially the exercise? I think my two would love it.

Given you're going to have an active dog, I'd suggest googling some of Pat Hasting's stuff. She writes about structure and how it impacts a dog's ability to live a pain-free life. I'd highly recommend reading some of her articles and, regardless of what breed you choose, look at the dog with structure in mind. You will find that any ethical breeder will want to know your plans for the dog, living arrangements etc. Given that you're young and still studying, they'll want to know what you'll do when you move out of home, get a full-time job etc. This is because many dogs get dumped when someone can't find an affordable rental that allows dogs in the city if they move there for work. If the breeder doesn't ask you about these things, run a mile!

Mucus can mena very irritated bowls - my dogs get this if they have too much bone in a meal.

Mine stay at home while I work (full-time). They have some toys and I have a dog door so they are indoor/outdoor. I have a dog walker a few times a week during the day. I walk them before work and we do training after work. On the weekends we train on Saturday and Sunday and go for more interesting walks. That is it. Your dog will be fine if it is left alone for a few hours a day with nothing to do - it will sleep! I believe in giving dogs plenty of exercise and training, but also giving them time with nothing to do so they learn to settle, rather than relying on you to constantly entertain them. Dogs need to learn to be self-sufficient when it comes to entertainment too. Mine get drive satisfaction (ie use their hunting instincts) through tugging, which I use as a reward for agility. One also loves chasing bubbles in the garden. Mine aren't destructive - although one is an avid knickers thief - and have dug one or two teeny little holes. Whatever breed you get, they won't be able to cope with that much exercise for at least a year (more if they're larger) due to the impact on growing joints.

I'm looking for a contacts trainer as my garden is too small for an AFrame (the ones like a mini AFrame). Does anyone know where I could get one in SE Melbourne (preferably second hand as there are waiting lists to get stuff made)?

Mini schnauzers are generally active, smart small dogs that would LOVE the lifestyle you describe (I assume he/she would come with you when you travel)? Mine don't like the heat of the day though, so in summer you'd need to walk/jog early in the morning or late at night. I have an MS and an MS cross, they go agility and some obedience and love getting out-and-about. They do require brushing and clipping. I drop mine in at the groomers every six weeks for a good clip.

that's a good idea, especially when it heats up!

Thanks. I've seen the mince but my dogs don't generally get fed in bowls at all - I feed them while training, so having a piece of meat rather than mince is my preference. That said, I just might have to cop it.

Have you asked Steve about his distraction technique (the kiss, kiss)? This can help prevent the barking if you get in quickly, or can help b ring attention back to you if she's being a pork chop. Another alternative is "Look at That" (LAT). As long as you keep regular contact with him, you can email him updates and questions all the time. I like researching stuff on my own and then asking if it would work in my situation.

Hi Vurd2BB, You mentioned a behaviourist in your post - are you seeing one? If so, can I ask who? Personally, in a situation like this I'd go to a professional (and not just anyone called a behaviourist, as they are an unregulated industry). If you're near Steve Courtney from K9Pro I'd recommend you see them asap. I say this from experience - I have a reactive dog who was living on a puppy farm pumping out litter after litter. She missed out on her critical socialisation period and is "speshul" as a result. Her reactivity only showed up after about a year of having her - she shut down before that. I didn't address it initially and we've both paid the price for it. It has taken years of work to undo my initial errors. The reason I recommend this rather than "just carry on doing what you're doing" is because her reactivity could be based on many things (excitement, nerves, fear, nervous excitement). The plan of attack will be different depending on what is driving this behaviour. The thing is that dogs learn by conditioning so EVERY opportunity that you give her to react badly REINFORCES that reaction. This is why getting help ASAP is important - every bad experience just makes more bad experiences more likely. As for your questions, some dogs react to dogs they know well. Some dogs just don't like other dogs. Soem dogs don't like specific dogs. She most probably barked when the other dog lunged at her to let the other dog know that she wasn't going to take that lying down.

My guys are currently on a mostly VAN diet and are doing really well. I'm feeding mostly kangaroo as recommended by Dr Bruce but I buy it from Woolies and at $15/kg it is getting pretty expensive. Does anyone know where I can get human grade kangaroo at better prices? Happy to buy in bulk if that makes things cheaper. I'm in Bentleigh but I'm willing to travel for an hour or two if that means I can get a reliable kangaroo supplier that doesn't send me to the poor house.

I think it is normal for a dog to wander off given the opportunity - thank goodness she is safe. I'd be getting a padlock for that gate pronto. All my gates are either padlock or locked via a key. No one can "accidentally" let my dogs out - I like it that way!

yes. In fact I've been told it is worse to run into a snake when it is cold because they can't get away as quickly, therefore increasing the risk of direct confrontation. I've been told that the safest time to go for a walk is in the middle of the day, as opposed to early in the morning.

Mine found the Ziwipeak way too rich - but it makes for great training treats (the actual food, not their training treats which are much more expensive but seem like the same thing). I tried ToTW but mine had the worst farts ever when they went on it. Ever. I had to leave the room gagging. Never again... IF you're after Australian made then I'd use Nutro. The only reason I don't use it is the size of the kibble (I use kiddle on walks so like tiny kibble so I can give my dogs a high rate of re-inforcement).

Companies are allowed to add preservatives and not put it on the label, as long as it is below a certain %. Choice did an expose on this a while back and found a lot of the "fresh" food contained very high levels of preservatives. That said, there are some that don't.

I think they left out an 'n't". That is now the law in Victoria - you need to prove that your dog isn't a pitbull, but you're not allowed to use DNA testing to do that. In fact, you can't even use a pedigree unless the pedigree is for an Amstaff. Brookstar - it is not normal dog behaviour to kill someone, attack someone else and have to be beaten off with a chair simply because they run away and scream. If it was normal dog behaviour to do this there would be a lot more dead children and I, for one, would call for ALL dogs to be banned.

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When it becomes obsessive sometimes they do nothing else but spin. Some catch their tails and chew it raw. Were not talking about doing a few spins a day here.

Dog fights start long before the first bite is taken. Muzzles are great in controlled situations - both dogs on lead- but are dangerous when one or both are loose. One can still antagonist the other. One bites and the other has no defense. Jane Harper has a really good reputation. The dogs might grumble but they'll cope fine separated until you see her.

And remember that the dog that starts the fight from a human perspective isn't always the aggressor in the dog world. Google he just wants to say hello"

You need professional help. Where abouts are you? These digs need to be separated all the time until you see a proper professional (lots of "fake" experts out there). I can't emphasize how important it is to keep them apart - should have happened afterthe first fight and the more fights you allow the worse it will get. Eight dogs need some pretty dedicated management.