megan_

Lucy while still at the puppy farm (at least I think it is Lucy, the dogs had no names but this one looks most like her): Lucy in quarantine once saved by the good people of the Schnauzer Club of Victoria (she is the little one on the bed, too scared to come up to the foster carer): Lucy now, chillin with her brother: And coming from a scratch behind the ear:

Can't he come inside first, put Maya in a crate/pen/room and close the door, then come in, lock the gates behind him (I assume they get locked so no one can just let her out) and then let her out? I wouldn't have OH give her a treat because she might anticipate it and run in front of the car to get it. Sounds laborious but it really is the only option. Pup could get run over or get on the loose. She's a LGD breed no? What might happen when she matures and someone walks past as the gate is still open?

Never heard of a w/l Australian Sheppard! Most of the ones that I've seen in agility are low - medium drive *dons flame suit because they seem to be the popular choice for agility these days*. Are there any in Australia? It would be a w/l mal or ESS for me. However, with two young, active dogs and full-time work (so away for 12 hours a day) it isn't on the cards in the near future. They would be an only dog, or the second dog would be older. My two don't compete but with training 3 times a week and 10 hours training travel time a week I just couldn't fit another dog into my life at the moment!

I don't know why it deemed unfair. Many dogs are territorial creatures and they don't know how to read titles down at the council - for many dogs, if they got out and someone was 1m away from their fence line they would deem the person person to be in their territory.

I'm on a corner block with the house in the back corner - so my front and backyards both face the road. The front is secure (gate is padlocked) and the fences are 6ft. I'm sure Lucy has scared some people and I always apologize but the only other alternative is locking her up 24/7. We are on a quiet street and the regulars know that she's there. Not ideal, but being on the corner I don't have much choice.

Why is everyone focusing on titles? I don't think that was the intention of the OP? Rather, there are do many dogs getting no mental stimulation because they were bought because it's the thing to do. I am a terrible handler and give my dogs lots of bum steers. We have so much fun though and they really have TP work extra hard to cope with ol' dumbo. However, they're getting plenty of mental and physical exercise and we're having a ball so I don't think Lollipup would classify us as wasted potential.

I assume that the OP means that she doesn't want the dog to be in a crate every time he/she is in the house. She wants the dog to be able to walk around and be with the family without the tree being destroyed.

He also has some free presentations on his website: michaelellisschool.com, including his foundation lecture. There are also some great videos of him on You Tube.

I have them - for the pup that I don't even have!

crate training just means that your dog goes to the crate when you ask it to, and is comfortable there. It doesn't mean that you need to lock your dog there when you go out of the house. I don't - I'm away at work for 12 hours a day and there is no way I'd lock up a dog for that long. Leaving your dog outside with shelter is a good way to go. That said, I have a dog door so that they don't need to be out in harsh weather. In terms of books, I'd get: * Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program (free shipping at the moment from cleanrun.com - you won't get a better deal anywhere). The focus is on avoiding problems and raising a well adjusted dog who can also compete in sports. * The Focused Puppy (at cleanrun too, but no free shipping. A few places in Oz sell it so it might be worth doing a price comparison on booko.com.au). * If you have the spare $ to spare, I'd buy the Michael Ellis range too. He is all about building a relationship with your dog, focus and motivation. Those are the things I'd focus on first, rather than worrying about "formal" training.

I should report you to the RSPCA Snook. My dogs must recognise the packaging because they went nuts when they saw me with the box. Not my first order, won't be my last either. Does anyone know if the cool coats are thick?

Fergus entered Movember last year, but he grew his mohawk instead. Raised over $400 too! Lucy is growing her Mo this year. Back OT, they are great to train. Because Lucy was kept in a puppy farm for the first few years of her life she didn't "learn to learn". However, what she doesn't have in problem solving skills, she makes up in raw enthusiasm. She throws herself into training and tries soooo hard to earn the nomz, she really is fun to watch.

It is normal to be sore for a few days after physio though. When my boy goes to the physio she tells me to keep him quiet but moving for a few days (ie not crate rest, but walks on leash, no training, no wild zoomies etc). The muscles are still responding to treatment and take a few days to settle.

I'm sorry but I don't see a problem with what he said . It sounds to me like he was just trying to make conversation? It is like the Dane people getting upset when someone says similar things - people are just trying to connect with other people. Does every comment need to be original? Should we all just mindlessly shuffle past one another?

A negative thing for the dog (ie a punishment, whether you intend it to be or not). I don't like head collars for that very reason. If pulling is a problem I'd train my dog on a flat collar, but while still in training walk my dog with a sensible harness (available with free shipping from cleanrun.com, really these people should give me commission!). m-sass - this thread is about whether using a sporn harness is allowed in class. I don't see what that has to do with prong collars or check chains. All training aids - be they ecollars, haltis, prongs or even a flat collar - are just band aids unless used properly and unless the trainer learns to engage their dog so they aren't walking off as soon as they're not physically attached to their owner. to the OP - good clubs should allow harnesses, especially if dogs train in drive (eg tug) as there is less chance of you accidentally correcting a dog that has a flat collar on.

O assume this was at agility and that was why the dog was off leash? Yes, she was in the wrong however at training you really need to assume that every dog is reactive and give them space (I'd if every dog is st the end of their leash the shouldn't touch. I don't let my dogs greet Amy dogs st agility- we're there to play with eachother, not other dogs. We have one person at one of the clubs with a highly reactive BC who stands around at tunnel exits while her dog attacks others. I don't participate in that particular class due to the risks. Bandanas don't get used in agility as they can get caught and the dog can die as a result. That said, she really should undergo s program like control unleashed before she starts agility.

They work fibe

Pretty sure the DVD is free shipping too - there is the seminar and the game demos

If you get the dinosaur one you should be okay - fewer little bits to chew off.

Do you find you need them both at all (not at the same time)? I have cool champions and got the chilly buddys from cleanrun. I'm thinking about selling the cool champions but I'm worried that there will be "scenarios" where the cool champion will be a better bet.

Shopping for club prizes - that is a good idea! Our club has a trial on the 17th, but they most probably won't arrive on time. Might have to keep them for myself then... My second order is ready to be picked up from the parcel locker. I know from the status that customs has searched the box. Fingers crossed that the bunny tug made it through, although I'm not hopeful. Might need to place another order... ETA: the dogs aren't that keen on the foam balls, but they do give great foot massages (the balls, not the dogs)

The rabbit squeaker is by far the biggest hit here - I wish I had ordered more! It caused a teeny "tiff" yesterday. They each took turn to run around the house like wild things with the prized squeaky rabbit in their mouth. The other one would then steal it and do the same. All was good, then Lucy got it and gave Fergus "the look". No snapping. No growling. Just "the look". Game over Fergs. So he started barking at her and crying. She did not relent.

Who did that? Em? Send her to me then.... (you already have the box from cleanrun, just tape it up)

oh please, let's not turn this into a big dog vs small dog debate. All dog owners need to be responsible. Big dogs can cause more harm than little dogs (you can kick a little dog more easily). These are simple facts and yet people seem to harp on about them...

I wouldn't get a large dog just for protection. I believe in getting a dog because you want a dog - along with the extra exercise and large bills! The cops actually said to me that I'm lucky that I have small dogs that didn't try to stop someone entering - easy to bait a large dog. If they had wanted to come in they would have. Obviously they were surprised to see 10 small dogs that made one hell of a racket. I'm sure they'll just target someone easier next time and you won't be seeing them again.