megan_

Agree. Socialisation doesn't mean out of control playing with 20 dogs way bigger than a pup. That is what happens at most doggy day care places I have seen. Staffed by young girls who love dogs, but aren't qualified trainers who understand dog interactions. Add that this is a large breed dog that needs lots of rest - I shudder to think what would happen to its hips and elbows at a day care place. There is now way on earth I would EVER put a pup in one. Most people here have worked and had a puppy. You can arrange a visitor during the day/pop home yourself and the pup should be sleeping most of the time anyway. No way I'd take any pup of mine to a doggie day care centre. I'd rather crate it all day! The OP is reading all this and thinking it all through and hopefully comes up with a solution that suits them andthe puppy's best interests.

My dogs stay in my very secure yard - padlocks on gates etc. I have no back garden. I regularly ask my neighbours about my dogs- one didn't realise I had any and the other was glad the give a warning bark when someone walks down her driveway. Should I lock them in the house for 12+ hours a day when I'm at work lest someone walks down the street? There are some cronic barkers in ourstreet - and theyre all in their backyards.

Whenever you are ready :) I dont believe there is a time frame. It could be 24 hours or two years just so long as you are aware that it is a different dog and dont compare (which you realise). Do whichever feels right to you, not other people. The OP's other dog is still a puppy. Personally, I wouldn't want to raise two puppies together - so much extra work. I'd wait until my first dog was well trained, around the 18 month mark. Then the first dog can teach the second dog how to behave, rather than the two getting up to mischief.

I wouldn't think anyone would use it at agility or OB comps - they are there to focus on the competition and if you're running a few times there isn't really time anyway. It might be used at shows although I assume that most show people have their own stuff and wouldn't want to be bathing the dog then and there.

What? I have never met Amy however given the amazing results snook has had with justice she would be my first port of call if I was in SA. Ps - all trainers, include positive ones, use negstive punishment (ie don't give the dog something that they want when their behaviour is unacceptable). It is a myth that positive trainers just give dogs treats. One of the most hardass trainers out there is Susan Garrett and her dogs don't get physically punished. If the owner doesn't want to use a check chain that is there choice. No point a trainer suggesting something that the owner won't do. Please lets not turn this into yet another tiring prong collar/check collar debate.

Whippets are still around.... I don't mind racing, but it is the large amounts of money that corrupts the process. We shouldn't treat dogs like this just to keep the breed around

It may or may not be - some dogs are sensitive to change and need it introduced slowly. I'd not feed for 24 hours, then put him/her on boiled chicken breast and rice for a few days. If the tummy is then okay and very slowly add the VAN. That said, I'd take the dog for a check-up just in case.

My cousin bought a dog for her dad's birthday from a reputable breeder. It wasn't a surprise though and the breeder spoke to my aunt a few times before selling a pup. It is all about the telling - the dog is your mums but you're the one just paying for it. How active is your mum? My aunt and uncle are in their early 70's and got a STD schaunzer puppy - a very active breed. He is walked 3 times a day, goes most places with my aunt and is visited by their 20+ grand kids often - he lives a very charmed life. Early sixties really isn't that old these days.

So no vet visit? Wpretty brave to diagnose via the Internet. Let's hope the OP sees Kathy and doesn't just follow msass' advice and land up with a dog redirecting their aggression on the OP. (has happened to at least one person I know).

Yes - vet check first then reputable behaviourist (lots of charlatans out there)

PA - sorry to hear about scooter. Staffyluv - great insight! I think most people with over excited dogs are still stuck on "let them play more" and the dog never improves!

Squeeee! Big little brag for Lucy. Today we had a little club tracking competition judged by Uta bindel (world champ, here for seminars). I entered fergus and then decided to enter Lucy too as it would be good practice. SHE WON THE NOVICE DIVISION! She didn't even flinch when a dog started barking. We normally track alone but she did it with a crowd watching and a judge nearby. She never beats fergs at anything but now she has a trophy showing she is #1!

Msass' post implied not just no socialization until 8 weeks, but a prolonged period of non socialization (isolation) until adulthood to assess why the dog truly turns out to be.

Every working dog I've ever met has always been given rewards - even the military dogs!

Every working dog I've ever met has always been given rewards - even the military figs

Mine are fine but they do say they don't suit excessive chewers. How hard are your guys on them? I had the games DVDs but landed up selling them. Good to watch once but they give absolutely no context so you really need to brush up on the book first.

In the pack of pitbulls scenario, the training would have stopped them from breaching the fence line, not the physical fence. By your standard, the dog needs to have gotten out in order for the fencing to be deemed inadequate - too late for the poor person who bears the consequence of this (dogs often behave differently on their own territory when the owner isn't there). I was rushed by a staffy cross who slept out of the front of a house with 2 ft fence and no gate. The dog never crossed the boundary but I wasn't waiting around to find that out and ran into the road with my two dogs. Adequate?

you're spot on!

There's a yard full of hunting dog crosses on a route I used to take into the town, I had to change my route as the fence just didn't seem adequate and I was a bit scared. But technically they're not doing anything wrong but I think fence height needs to be a consideration and fence type for that matter. Chicken wire is hardly adequate for a lot of those heavier set and determined breeds. My council specifically says that fencing needs to be adequate (ie can't jump over the fence or fit under it). Sure, there are times when things are a close call, but star picket fencing or a low fence isn't enough to contain a large dog. Common sense really.

So if there is a pack of pitbulls behind a 1ft fence Luke GSP, they rush you and your dog but if they don't cross the fence line then it's all roses?

yep - I saw them at the petshop the other day. My they're huge.

I would never have believed that those homes existed Vickie until I went to watch my first trial. I was shocked to see a dog that, to my novice eyes at least, was clearly lame. The poor thing was so unenthusiastic and lumbered along a Masters agility course. I don't understand why someone would do that. My boy hurt his back a while ago (muscle strain, x rays all clear). I didn't realise until we saw a specialist. We've been to the physio and he gets a bit of stiffness after about a month of no physio or massage. We have a plan of attack and, while I would be heartbroken if we no longer did agility because we both love it so much, if the physio advised us to stop, we would stop immediately. We have a plan to build his core strength which is going along nicely and he gets a nightly massage. He is participating in agility, having what looks like a ball, and is hooning around. I still sometimes doubt my decision to carry on though - wish they could just tell us how they felt.

It's a bit of a balance. There are some reactive dogs that are triggered by movement or a dog being 5m away - they shouldn't be doing agility until this is worked on. Lucy does agility and works off leash. She would react to a dog getting in her face, however she works beautifully off leash, is totally focused on training and doesn't react to dogs walking past, running past etc. In the scenario described by the OP, the other person was in the wrong. However, if I was having to walk past someone within greeting distance I'd ask them to move. I never, ever let my dogs get within coo-ee of another dog at training, unless I have their permission (even then, we're not at training to play with other dogs, so my dogs focus on me and don't do the whole "hello" thing). As the owner of a reactive dog it is my responsibility to inform others of their reactivity and not to inject myself into the middle of a group. However, it is the responsibility of other owners to respect my wishes and not approach my dog either. That goes for all dogs, reactive or not. My girl wears a vest that says "PLEASE GIVE ME SPACE" in bright, bold print and I always stay on the fringes but I can't tell you the number of times I've had to physically block other dogs or people from approaching her. Most of the owners just walk past without a clue as to what their dogs are doing.

aaawww, look at little Ollie with that huge bowl! Ziggy looks very serious in that second pic.

Squeee! I already have my foundation plan for my next pup - who I'll only be getting in 5+ years unless I win the lotto and can give up work. I think if you focus on engagement, a communication system and having fun then the rest just falls into place.