megan_

You should tell that to Uta, 5 times Obedeince World Champion! And you should tell my pup that he doesn't know how to clean the floor with a rag, becasue I taught him taht free shaping too :D (apologies if that comes across sounding really smug, I don't mean it to be). Using your example below. you want to teach your dog to drop (I've esplained it it one session here, but it can be as many as it takes). i) He offers up behaviour, you click for getting close to drop first (eg bowing). Eventually he drops. Click. Big reward. I then play, go for a little walk. ii) He offers drop pretty quickly. As he's about to drop, add the word. Click. Treat. Little break iii) Repeat step ii) a few times. Now you can stop free shaping and he knows drop. iv) End of session. Go home Now you want to teach sit. i) Chances are, he'll drop first. He will look at you when he doesn't get a click. My boy then does the move again in a very exaggerated manner to show me he did DROP. As soon as he starts to get up, click and treat. ii) Repeat as necessary. Soon he cottons on that this has nothing to do with drop, he offers up different behaviours. Repeat as per the drop sequence. Not every dog responds to every method. But it makes sense to me that many dogs, especially the smarties, would thrive on this once they understand it? I can't see how it would work with a trick like begging, but then I've never tried that.

But the fact that this is done under the name of "research" implies (to me, at least) that we can (or should be able to) use that information for ....... something. But unless outside factors that influence how many times chickens peck are taken into account, isn't the fact that they peck 100 times or 10 times fairly useless, save that it scientifically proves that chickens peck? I've only been skimming this thread, so I could be way off, but my understanding of it is this: they are trying to determine whether you can measure behaviour. At this stage, what causes it is irrelevant. Once you know you can measure behaviour, you can then add the other factors. A study that was trying to measure behaviour and causes (many of which are complicated and poorly defined) would be too complex and the information would most likely be useless. One of the hardest things to measure is causation - did factor X cause the chicken to peck more, or is it just a co-incidence? In order to have any hope of ascertaining that, factors need to be isolated and measured consistently. If we want to answer the question of what factors influence behaviour and how do they impact behaviour we need to: i) Determine if we can measure behaviour (Tammy's study), then ii) Test what factors influence that behaviour Erny - the information can be used for something....in the future. It should provide baseline of measuring behaviour. Then differnt scientists can test their causation hyphotheses against the baseline behaviour.

The aim is to get your dog thinking and problem solving. He offers up a behaviour. No reward. Try something else etc. I don't use it for obedience (I don't compete) but for getting my dogs to use their brains and get some mental exercise. At the Uta Bindel seminar, she said to start on really easy things, no corrections (just a NRM) and give them time to try things out. The seminar was really useful in getting the theory and practice right - I wouldn't have like dto try it without getting that grounding first. I believe that many obedience dogs struggle at first because they are waiting to be told what to do. This was certainly true at the seminar. The BC's sat and waited for instructions, my low-level trained mutt worked it out pretty quickly. She said that it defintely worked better with puppies, which makes sense. JulesP - I think it depends on the dog. Uta recommended not to lure as the dog isn't thinking, it is just following its nose. I don't lure with my boy but I have to keep sessions very short (a few minutes max) because if he isn't getting rewarded he get frustrated too easily.

I agree with this statemetn but not with your solution. Surely the solution is to educate people more on what sibes are really like. They aren't suited to the family taht want to take their dog to the park for a play and run-around. I would imagine that a lot of the poundie sibes were bought because of their looks.

when I last looked at the ingredients it didn't look promising.

I walk them in the early morning and after 7.30pm on days like today. It is still 30+ at that time, but you don't get direct sunlight. I keep the afternoon walk to a slow pace, and let them go crazy in the morning.

I'd go along for sure

thanks. I've had a few PM's and the price beats this a little but it is good to know you don't have to pay full retail

On an unrelated note, I have two terriorists FTGH. They are perfectly well behaved. Investment in training has paid divedends! On a serious note, does anyone know where the cheapest place is to get one? Thanks, Megan

I agree with her. I was at a training workshop and someone just let their dog off lead. I know if my dog had reacted they would have thought I had the problem.

YEs. But if your dog is diagnosed when it is 10 and it lives to be 15 (possible in the small breed that I have) you will only be covered for the one year of treatment? With PetPlan, you'll be covered for life (at 65% - which would land up paying out a lot more). PetPlan have an issue at the mometn due to a new systems implementation. Once they catch up they should be right (I hope!).

I don't think separating them would be off much help. So many times I've heard people suggest company for the lone dog who barks?? I had a similar problem many years ago. Our elderly neighbour complained that one of my dogs barked insecently when I was at work. Turned out it barked at him while he stood one the decking of his two story home overlooking our yard. What did he expect? Of course my dog would bark at what she considered an intrusion into our property. I had to keep them indoors during the day, fortunately they were small dogs and they preferred to be indoors anyway. Hmmm perhaps the dogs had set this up with the neighbour?? It is worth a try though. To the OP - make sure they can't see eachother.

The issue with medical records is that lay people can read them and panic. I'd just ask them to forward them to specific specialist(s) when you know who you want to go to.

I must be broken - I only feed my dogs meat on the bone (chicken wings, chicken necks and lamb necks are the staples). I am way too worried about them not getting enough calcium. Someone (maybe Nekhbet) said that the finer cuts have less nutritional value than cheaper cuts - less blood and grissle. Mine definitely prefer a lamb neck with the bone, meet, marrow and blood over a prime steak. Much cheaper ($2 per neck) and keeps them entertained for a while.

The big issue for me is kennels. Don't they legally have to require annual vaccinations or titre tests?

I think a mini schnauzer would be suitable, but the standard is a whole lot more of dog!

Awesome, take a person that has a phobia of dogs and BARK at them... that's terrific... you are such a compassionate being! Just because she is afraid of dogs that does not make her a 'crazy lady' Aussie3, why is it "out of hand" for your neighbours to be afraid of dogs? Because you are not? Huski, as for trying to speak with her and trying to convince her that your dog is friendly/well behaved/non-aggressive etc... that is just a waste of breath and time, even if she spoke English - if you have a dog phobia you don't care how nice the dog is, who the owner is, if they are trained, if the sit, if they drop, even if they are on a leash - I know, I had a serious phobia until about 6 years ago- every time I saw a dog I had to cross the street, hhide behind furniture, even run the other way - and yes, I was fully aware that running away would potentially send a dog running after me, but that did not enter the equation whenn I was face to face with a dog - it's irrational, but that is what a phobia is... Agree - when I was about 15 I actually ran into on-coming traffic on a busy road to avoid a dog. The lack of compassion of some people is a real eye opener. Huski - If things continue and you have to go past this woman to get to the park, why not just drive there instead, thereby reducing the risk to both you and Daisy? That is what I do with my two (no crazy lady, just a dog that roams on teh way to the park). I feel silly for doing it, but it is my job to protect my dgos and it is a minor inconvenience in the scheme of things.

very cute dog and very cute hat - import those things and you could make a foprtune from DOLers alone

ignore him. If he's been to the toilet he is testing you. Never get him out when he's barking - he will think that barking = he'll be getting out.

The way I read this post is that the "pop" wasn't being used as a correction - but rather as a way to physically pull the dog around to teach it where to go. My understanding of correction collars is that you train the dog first and then correct them if they do something wrong once they understand what is required of them. You don't use punishment to actually train the maneouver (sp, but too darn lazy this morning).

RIP Rocco. Know that you brought so many people joy with your gorgeous pictures. You cheered up many people on their dark days.

I taught my boy to stay away from the front door when I left. I didn't give him any treats to do this. Then introducing my girl was easy as she just followed his lead. I left them alone from day 1 with no problems. I do say "Bye Fergus and Lucy. I love you until the end of time" each time I leave. My boy used to get anxious every time I got up as he didn't know whether I was leaving or not. As soon as I introduced by "goodbye" line - he relaxed. He knows I won't just sneak out so there is no reason to get up every time I do. Daggy and unconventional but it works for me. Agree with Bindii that hey should get alone time every day. I walk mine separately at least once a day to bond with them but also build up independence.

Totally normal - and it is VERY important that you let him rest when he needs it. Play for 15 - 20 mins, then make sure he has a sleep.

Kepala!

Able to be let off lead Don't think they are known for that particular trait. Why not it's just another breed of dog. The ones I've had would all run if let off and come back. In Vic they are required to be on lead when off your property. Also, they aren't really known as a fetch/running with the kids/camping etc type of dog? Aren't they more couch potatoes with one or two sprints a day?