megan_

I think it depends on: i) the dog ii) how much effort the owner is willing to put in. There are some dogs that I know who wouldn't be happy in an apartment no matter how many times they went for a walk. After all, the dog can't decide when to do zoomies etc in this environment. An active dog (eg a "normal" English Pointer, GSP, BC etc) wouldn't be suited IMO. Most apartments - especially newer ones - are actually very small. My dogs live in an apartment-like situation. Due to the dog door being used in a robbery, they are inside only dogs 12+ hours a day. I'd leave them in the garden but it is teeny and is only a small bit of decking. My dogs are walked at least twice a day and do lots of activities (obedience, agility, free shaping, games). They are well behaved and I believe they're happy. However, I have been looking for a house with a garden so that they can do zoomies when they feel like it - I think that is one of the pleasures of being a dog! I think they'd cope in an apartment situation but it isn't one I'd subject them to by choice. If I didn't have them and lived in an apartment I'd hold off buying a dog (as I like more active dogs).

was the dog at a 24/7 facility with a vet always present though? Did the dog stay overnight? By your prices, they charged $100/day, including all treatment. I have never heard of a hospital charging that little these days (not questioning the truth, just saying I don't think a place could operate these days and charge so little). When my boy went to hospital, it was over $300 per night before ANY treatment. That was covering his boarding and staffing fees.

I must say I'm pretty gobsmacked at that price and variation as well. What's the breakdown of costs out of curiosity? All the best for your little pup. If it is a 24/7 hospital (the only type I'd let my dog stay at overnight) then that price is very reasonable. When my boy was sick with extreme gastro I landed up paying just shy of $4000. Running a 24/7 facility with the right equipment and vets present all the time is very expensice.

this from facebook: Sorry to bug you guys with causes but does anyone have a free back yard? Im an Animal Rescue Qld foster member and we received a list of puppies and dogs who will be killed by the pound COB TODAY! Temporary (average 4wks) or even better permanent homes needed. If you can help please jump over to their page and get in contact with Mel ASAP. You will literally be a lifesaver ♥ Um, being a foster carer or permanent owner requires a LOT more than a free back yard.

I never call them treats - I give my dogs food and it is part of their diet (I don't give schmakos etc). I know people who feel that I spoil my dogs because they're getting food for working. I tell them that my dogs work for everything, I don't just plonk a bowl of food on the floor for them to eat it on 2 mins flat. Your friend would think I'm a monster. I say it makes for happy, balanced dogs. If they were working all day it would be different but as pets, unless an owner makes a real effort their lives can be very boring.

If you live in the burbs you'll hear noise- including dogs. If people want total quiet they should live on an acreage

males are a lot more affectionate IMO. They are also a lot less bitchy! Given that I have a dominant bitch and a happy-go-lucky boy, I'd be getting a boy if I added to this household.

this sign would be inviting idiots to let the dog out IMO. Locks are the best defence. The water meter guy can arrange a meeting time to read the meter, you don't need to provide unfetted access to your yard.

the real issue is that they don't quarantine dogs

do the backseat buddies allow you to click the dogs into the seatbelt?

tollersowned, my boy is crate trained and loves the crate. It took him all of 5 ins to break out to join us on the agility field. That is why I suggested a wire crate to the OP. The only reason I posted was because other posts implied that soft crates can withstand scratching and dogs trying to get out.

My boy (a mini schnauzer cross, so not a strong dog) ripped through the mesh of my k9 Royale crate. I was doing agility with this sister for the first time and he was crated - little bugger wouldn't have a bar of it and ate his way out!

I am. But I'm getting both of them collars

so it is okay for an unvacc'd pup to be taken to the park if they're taken by a rescue, but if the general public do and their dog gets parvo it is their own fault? They will keep this pup alive come hell or high water just so they can say they are no kill. I'd love to know who they are because I donate a bit to rescue and I wouldn't want to give these people 1c.

My dOgs know how to unzip them so I noe use metal crates

If the council seized the dog, I'm not sure it's up to the owners? ETA: I read your post wrong and I see what you are saying. Only time will tell I guess, I would be very disappointed in the council if the offer of assessment and rehabilitation was not taken up. And then what? Rehome a dog that attacked 4 adults? To who? If it attacked again the council and possibly the brlehaviourist would be legally liable. No reputable rescue would rehome an ha dog from the pound, why is this different? Personally, I'd like the dog to see a vet and have an MRI before anything else. Either way though, unless the owner wants the dog back or the behaviourist wants to adopt the dog I don't see many options for it.

OMG he is cuuuuute

Want.

Great. What are your qualifications?

mini schnauzers. I have done some lure coursing and racing with them and they love it. When we pull up in the car there is much crying!

kelpiechick - we aren't on equipment yet. We're on a little board. He knows his release command and follows it really well - I don't use the clicker for anything but free shaping (up until now) so it hasn't been a problem. The thing is he hears the click then bounces up for a treat. I could shovel food in this mouth to hold the position, but how will he know that that is the desired behaviour? I was trying to use the clicker because he really gets it and looooves working with it. It makes him think and he knows he has to think to earn a click. Maybe I need to look at his targeting behavoiur - he only touches it for a second. It is a clear, strong touch but he doesn't hold it for long. He'll only get a click if he holds the position for a few seconds, and I can use "good boy" - he understands that as a bridging word. When this is working I can then throw in the release word before the behaviour ends, fading out the clicker then and there. I hope I'm making sense!

thanks. When/how did you introduce your release word? Sorry for asking the dumb questions, I just like to know the entire exercise and break it down before I start.

I'll give that a go. I would like to keep "click means the end of the behaviour" so that I don't muddy the waters. The instructor looked at me like I was crazy when I said that the click is the end of the exercise.

yes - a ground target that he targets with his paw

How would you teach it?