megan_

I'd class this as "accidents happen". If the owner was happy to have her dog play then sometimes these things are unavoidable. If the black lab was mine and was limping, I'd take him home and rest the leg for the day. Dogs can be very stoic and can be in pain but still play.

My dogs go in harnesses. They have from day 1 so are used to it and never try to escape. They look at the outside world for a minute of two then lie down for a nap.

There is a big difference between a JRT and a lab. Many labs would end up crippled if they ran 5 - 7km as pups - their joints wouldn't handle it.

I agree with deelee - in fact the warning about the tissue made me think it was a heart warming story? Please put a note in the title at least. FWIW, I know many dogs living in chaotic households with nerves of steel that have never done anything like that. Supervision can only do so much - people with kids need to get dogs with nerves of steel.

I don't knOw about this case, but it is pretty standard to recommend a blood test for sudden behavior changes. I know that erny recommended I get one for my girl when she started to lash out In certain situations (when she didnt before). Once thyroid issues were ruled out we knew the issue was 100% behavioural

Bear inkling that some pre-prepared "nAtural" diets can contain this too. Unless you're buying direct, Hunan grade food from a butcher you don't always know what you're getting

I couldn't agree more, I can't understand why this place gets so much In donations, when there are so many others who do a hell of a lot more for their animals on less money and are so much more deserving of funds More money for that green stuff you like to use so much Dr Smith! How about actually using It for the animals In your care and their desperate need of new facilities just for starters! They are good at PR and raising money. They have a very good reputation with people who aren't "in the know". Maybe rescue could learn some things from LDH - how to fund raise being one of them.

sorry - I was sure when I read the book (a bit of an old copy?) there was no clicker? Anyhoo, my dogs have learned the game all the same

okay - I think you're mixing two games up. Typically, for "look at that" you don't use the clicker (if you follow Leslie's stuff to the tee). To keep it really simple, the order is: i) Dog looks at something ii) At that instant, before they get roused, you say "Look at that" (ie it is a marker, not a cue - the difference is important, you aren't actually telling your dog to look at something, just marking that it has). Now if you want, you can use the clicker instead of saying "look at that", but you only use one or the other. I personally don't use the clicker for this because I don't always have it on me and I like to have my other hand free if something goes wrong. I also use the clicker for free shaping so I don't want the clicker to mark calm. iii) Whjen you're starting out, as soon as you've said "look at that", shove a treat in their mouth. You don't have to wait for them to do anything (eg look at you), just give them the treat. Repeat the game again each time they look at something. Don't be stingy - you want to build up a conditioned response, so you need to repeat it many times. iv) After you've played the game a few times, add a micro-second pause between steps ii) and iii). If your dog has the hang of it, he will look at you after you say "look at that". Then treat (ie the dog is being treated for looking at you and remaining calm). If your dog gets very excited, say "look at that" in a low, calm voice.

I wouldn't call your breed domestic dogs lilli. They are working dogs, no?

the difference is subtle... "Look at me" means 'dont' look at the person/dog that scares/excites you, look at me instead'. The dog might still think that the other thing is scary/exciting and it is working against its natural instinct to look. "Look at that" means 'look at the scarey person/dog that excites you, then I'll give you a treat. See? The scary thing isn't that bad etc'. The dog gets rewarded for looking and staying calm and doesn't work against its natural instinct to look.

Just a point of fact, the hendra virus has never been identified in Victoria, according to the Department of Primary Industries: http://new.dpi.vic.gov.au/agriculture/pests-diseases-and-weeds/animal-diseases/horses/hendra-virus I'm pretty sure it was confirmed in a bat colony a few months ago in Kew. It was on the news.

I think a few terms are being mixed up? My understanding is that, in Australia: * An assistance dog is a certified dog that helps someone with some sort of disability/need. This may be sight, may be daibetes detection, help with anxiety etc. The dogs is properly trained and certified and they have the same entry rights as humans. I don't think anyone in their right mind has a problem with this? * A therapy dog visits people (eg elderly, sick children etc) and provides them with companionship. They undergo a behavioural assessment and the handler undergoes training. They have no special entry rights, other than the facility that they are assigned to (eg a specific hospital, at a speficic time). The issue with people claiming that their dogs are assistance dogs (ie I need this dog with me to help me with XXX) is that, if something ever happens, all assistance dogs get tarnished. For example, at the moment people are allowed to train their own dogs to be assistance dogs and this is preferred by some. If other people claim that their own dog (who is not needed for medical reasons) is an assistance dog and it causes trouble, I would imagine that there would be a clamp down on owner-trained dogs, limiting the rights of the disabled to source and train their own dogs. If people want dog laws changed, then the best avenue is to raise well behaved dogs and obey the laws. The quickest path to more restrictions is to break the law. We see this all the time now. For example, my council has just opened a new park where dogs are not allowed AT ALL - even on a leash. Why? Because idiots walk their dogs off leash at on leash parks, so banning dogs all together was easier for the council. There was also growing resentment in the community about not being able to take the kids to the park without being harrassed by off leash dogs (and when you don't like dogs, having a dog approach you is harrassment).

Sorry to hijack Kavik, but is there anywhere that does this in Melbourne?

This thread has been great free advertising for you 4 paws! Now I want one of these great quality leather leads...

I agree that exercise isn't the be all and end all, but young, healthy dogs need exercise every single day. Trick training isn't a subsitute for a walk in the park, seeing different things, smelling new smells etc. As PF suggested, are you able to walk her in a quiet park? I have a dog with issues so I need to be careful where I take her. Smaller parks tend to be best as people gravitate to the big ones. Two walks a day with a few 5 mins training sessions at home could do the trick. You could train her to "go to your mat" etc which will help with managing a your, large, powerful dog with small children. ETA: I live in Melbourne, if my dogs didn't get walked when it was a "wet week" they wouldn't get walked for 6 months in the year. I don a rain jacket, they don theirs and out we go. I now enjoy walking in the rain - we have the streets to ourselves and they love to sniff all of the new smells that come about when it rains.

I have a dog who was terrified of the crate, she now loves "crate time". This is the condensed version of what I did: i) I put the crate up, out of the way. I didn't make a fuss at all. I left it there for a week or so, just so that it blended in and became nothing (she used to be scared of anything signigicant being introduced into the house. I got them a new bed and she wouldn't come into the room....). ii) I then started putting yummy food into the crate and letting her get it. I didn't make a fuss at all (disn't call her etc) and didn't force her to stay in there. iii) I also put one of her beds in there and found her having a little nap there. iv) I then started feeding her in the crate and closing the door. I kept close by to release her before she become distressed. Eventually I started leaving her in there for 1 second after she had finished, 3 seconds, 1 minute etc. I then added the cue "crate time". v) Now I say "crate time" and she rushes to her crate. If your dog is very fearful I think the key is to take things veeery slowly. Often we see progress and want to get tot he end goal to quickly and then things unravel.

That's a pretty powerful dog. Trying to justify it with stating the size of the dog doesn't make sense to me.It's not your concern why they had their Police Dog with them....a Police Dog is a Police Officer. I don't think this is correct. My understanding is that a service dog is normally considered to be equipment, same as a gun, taser, pepper spray etc. Disabled persons' assistance dogs are legally medical appliances, not humans. Dogs are territorial by nature and it would be normal for many dogs to challenge another dog coming onto their territory. They do not have the wit to discern the difference between a police dog and an agressive stray. Nope - you will get charged if you attack a police dog. The officers did what they had to do to defend their dog. People are obliged to provide safe passage to their front door.

Mini schnauzers make very cute puppies. Apparently the black ones are extra feisty!

Confession: I walk my dogs in the rain and....tehy don't like the rain. Once we get going they're happy though and need to get out and about for mental and physical exercise. Most raincoats on sale are cosmetic and don't "breathe".

Not any more. AVA recommendation is annual vacs every three years

I think we agree with eachother woofen?

I tend to agree with Greytmate. I think you need to focus on a dog that you want to live with, and then look at a dog that is suited to how YOU do at dog sports. Certain breeds do very well at dog sports when they have very experienced and measured owners. I have a dog who is good at agility given my complete lack of handling skills. He seems to be able to figure out what I really want from him, has good but measured drive and is very forgiving. If I had a dog that was a lot more drivey and not as forgiving (no offence border people, but most BC's I've met fit into this category) we'd fail miserably (not due to the dog's lack of skill, but mine). I suggest giving agility with one of your current dogs a go. Not to necessarily compete with them, but to learn how YOU operate. Also, it will give you time to improve your skills. A total newbie trying to handle a dog with a lot of drive, nouse etc (all good things in an agility dog) can be very hard on both dog and owner.

I know a dog that lived until 20. Ate possum poo every day. Therefore possum poo makes you live long. But seriously, to the OP. There is nothing wrong with not vaccinating every year (or every three years as is now the protocol) IF you titre test and check that your dogs are covered. People who have seen dogs die of parvo know that it is a terrible, terrible death for a dog.

I don't consider myself a dog lover. I LOVE my dogs and some other dogs (because they're "friends" with mine or have some special qualities). I don't wish ill on other dogs, but I don't feel "love" towards them.