megan_

I'd actually say a mini over the other two. Standard schnauzers are very smart but all the ones I've known are very stubborn, which can be a challenge when you're training an agility dog. I know their are giants that do agility but personally a heavy set breed wouldn't be my first choice. ETA: All the logattos I've met have been reactive/flighty. They still have small gene pool in Australia so that is something to consider. ETA ETA: I'd also consider a mini poodle - great dogs. However, if you plan on showing keeping the coat would be hard.

I hve mini schnauzers and use target sticks all the time, but not for heeling (eg I play a game where the stick-on-a stand is hidden and they have to boop it with their nose, click, treat). I've heard of people doing it but I'd stuff it up and it would become a cue.

was the good authority personally there and are they qualified to make such comments?

Is there a shop that I can buy it at in the SE Melbourne suburbs (not delivery, my gates mean that nothing can be delivered unless I'm home)?

My total was over $250, so I culled it down to $150 so I saved myself $100. Yay me.

do not go to the toy section

* owner focused, but able to keep themselves entertained while I'm at work, too tired etc * confident * intelligent - a problem solver * good with people and dogs, very slow to fight back, will do everything to avoid this. * high drive, with an off switch Fergus has most of these, except #2. He isn't a fearful dog but he isn't the most confident dog out there either. If he had this he would be my ideal dog. That said, he is my heart dog no matter what. Lucy has almost none of these (well, maybe the first one if I have food), but I love her anyway!

note to self: you only need to spend $100 to get the free shipping, not $250...

wasn't someone after the remote trainer? With free shipping it would be a steal. Maybe I need one???

Great article. I think in the past people were too quick to blame dogs ("he's stupid/viscious etc") however the pendullum has swung too far back. Even on this forum, people often say that you can take any pup, socialise and train it and it will work out well. If that's the case why do we tell people to look at the temperament of the parents? I have a dog (well, bitch, but I struggle with that term...) who was used for breeding on a puppy farm. Both her and her sisters had the same miserable upbringing. They were rescued and stayed with a foster carer in exactly the same environment. Within a few days most of Lucy's siblings were interacting with the foster carer. Not Lucy. She exhibited much more extreme fear and she holds onto it to this day (things have improved a lot, but I don't hold hope of her ever becoming a happy-go-lucky dog). Six dogs, same environment but very different outcomes.

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If there is a way for a handler to screw up I'll find it!

Are you sure they didn't just estimate? They have done that with mine because my fences are all padlocked/deadlocked when I'm not at home.

Thanks for the replies. Cosmolo - I'll gete in touch. This might become the dogs' Christmas present!

Try Karen pryor's site - her shipping tends to be a lot cheaper than cleanrun.

I'm trying to find more things to do with the dogs, especially things I can do in the confines of my property. I thought I'd start teaching them to track (just for fun, not for competition). However I have absolutely no idea what this involves. Is there anywhere I can learn how to do this in Melbourne?

10 hours in a crate is waaaaay too much on a regular basis. IF they were my dogs: i) Set some rules ii) Walk 2 x per day (even if it is a short walk, just to break things up) iii) Separate when I'm not there (because of the fighting) iv) TRaining of some sort to wear them out (2 x 5 mins clicker training) v) Do some structured activities with them (eg obedience, agility or flyball) on a weeknight. vi) Fix the fence and let them outside (or have a dog door) when out. I wouldn't leave an SBT inside for 10 hours a day - they are very active dogs.

It took six months for Lucy to walk outside!

My guess is he's still a bit wary of you. Maybe give the walking a rest, ignore him and wait until he is coming to you for attention?

re: the shyness, just ignore him and let him approach in his own time. Re: the walking, take it very slowly. Here is the method that I used for a dog that completely shut down when the lead was on: i) Tie a tiny bit of cord (say 5 - 10 cm) onto their collar. Leave it on and let them go about their business, getting used to something being on their collar. You must supervise though so that it doesn't get caught. Remove. ii) In the next day or two, tie a slighly thicker cord. Repeat as above until the dog is oblivious to the cord. iii) Try it with a very thin puppy leash. Again, just let them do their own thing. Don't try to walk them. Remember to supervise to prevent a strangled dog. iv) Now try it with their normal leash. Again, let them drag it around. Leash goes on before feeding time (leash = I get yummy things) v) Once you've done all the above and the dog now is comfortable with the leash, now you can try and walk it. Try walking in the house at first. Again, repeat until the dog is comfortable. Then try going down the driveway, back home and ending it. Then just a little bit more... All of this was done on a flat collar and leash. I certainly wouldn't be using a check chain on a dog that was frightened of walking.

I don't see anyone saying that walks on a leash are all a w/l dog needs. Rather, letting them off leash on public land with other dogs (and putting them and their owners - who could get hurt trying to save them - at risk) is the answer. If you own a DA dog you need to put in lots and lots and lots and lots of effort to find safe ways to give your dog the outlet that it needs. Putting other dogs at risk is just the lazy option.

West St Kilda has a big beach and if you go early is is very queit. Rickett's Point is also nice but doesn't have a lot of zoomie room (it looks like they do a LOT of zoomies!). Is it an exclusively whippet thing?

What about the dog's calcium requirements though? It says only to add meat (which to me means no bone)?

I'd report them to the RSPCA -trainers have a responsiblity to correct students who are abusing their dogs. I don't have an issue with corrections per say, but you need to teach your dog want you want first (in many different varieties) before it is "fair" to correct them. Even then, it needs to be applied humanely. I'd love to say I'd never seen this kind of thing, but I've been to KCC a few times on the w/end and have seen people yell "HEEL" at their dogs and before the dog had any time to respond, lift them up by the check chain (front paws off the floor) and yank the dog into place. You gives a s@%#@$ about results when you have to resort to that to get them? I often wonder why those people do obedience (or even have dogs)? I thought we were meant to do dog sports to bond with our dogs/give them something they enjoy/geet them to use their brains etc. If you have to constantly correct your dog, then you have to wonder how effectively you have actually trained the behaviour. I'm sure if I beat my dog into submission I could have a quiet, well-behaved dog. Doesn't make the abuse any less disgusting.

Dogs have very sensitive noses. Given that it is made out of spices I assume it would smell and therefore he may not use his bed?