louloud

Its fine to split them it works out alot cheaper too. The only thing that isn't ok with Advocate is to split up the dog one and apply it to cats as well as dogs. They have different ingredients and can be harmful to cats.

I am a vet nurse and own a pom as well. I got her desexed at 6.5months old and she still had four remaining decidious teeth (all canines) and these were removed. Usually if they are still there at that age they are not going to fall out by themselves. A good client of ours is a pom breeder and dental issues are a big problem in poms and most of her pups need decidious teeth removed under GA as no matter how much they chew they will not fall out by themselves.

Royal canin has allergin diets too RC skin support, hypoallergenic and sensitvity control maybe try one of them? With any skin allergy it can be a process of elimination to find out exactly whats causing it. Could be a contact allergy if the itching redness is on the belly, "armpits" or feet caused by kikuyu, wandering dew, wool, carpet etc..?

I offered her Royal Canin for breakfast and dinner (lifting it up after 20mins if she didnt eat it) for nearly a week- she hardly touched it and lost a fair bit of weight. so from a health perspective I wasnt going to persevere much longer than that. and brushing she doesnt enjoy it (whinges a bit) but she still gets brushed whether she likes it or not. I agree she likes to try and control the situation though. Thats why she's in for tough love!

I've already emailed him just waiting for a reply..sorry to confuse you I meant when other family members or vistiors leave we hold the lead and she watches them go out the door. When everyone goes out she is confined to the downstairs area and will follow me if I have a bone, treat, filled kong in my hand while still barking and carrying on into the area i throw the object and she runs in and then I close the door and then takes less than 5 in to settle down once we have gone.

I wouldnt be surprise if the stress I feel before someone leaves rubs off onto her. Generally speaking she is a hyper intense dog alway has been, likes to get into everything would go on a walk for hours and hours if she could (she does get walked every day for at least 20-30 min sometimes twice) she is a pomeranian so should be adequate. She is very healthy (im a vet nurse so make sure of this) she was on Royal Canin mini adult but then decided she was sick of it and refused it so is now on eukanuba small breed Coat condition is good (but doesn't like to be brushed either) I cope. she is lean to slightly chubby which I am monitoring. She is from a litter of only 2 pups the other was half her size, so she was always bossing it around. Purchased from a NZKC breeder at 9 weeks of age, viewed parents both lovely dogs. Has been to pup school and basic obeidence which she is fine at (beautifully behaved outside the house on walks, at park, good with other dogs etc. I will def try to get him to come back, the reason i chose him as he gives a lifetime guarantee. he recommended keeping her on the lead and her watching us leave as to see she cant control us. or do you think putting her away is better? and letting her out when she is quiet and settled?

She triggers earlier with visitors than family members she will start barking, guarding etc as soon as they get up and move in the direction of the door, it's worse if they're carrying a bag or rattling keys. She will let me get to the front door but as soon as a touch the door handle she will go crazy. I havent tried walking her outside first on the lead so will try it next time someone is leaving. Yes it was a qualified behaviourist and have heard good things about him from other people. With settling down it prob takes at least one minute for her to stop barkning, trying to follow and I let her lead go once she is settled.

She usually is very good at commands sit, drop, stay etc even without treats but there is no way a could get her in a drop postion when she thinks someone is leaving. Her body language she is showing is a very stressed,anxious dog barking insanely, wide eyed, increased resperation so this stress rubs off on to me. Its was over a month ago we saw the behaviourist he just said continue with the recommendations he had made, it would take time. He did admit he has never seen a behaviour problem like this before though, but would research into it...so that kind of what im doing too..

She is crate trained she sleeps happily in a crate by herself at night, making no noise till the morning. We have been keeping her on a leash 24/7 in the house (makes it easier when people want to leave, besides having to hear the insane barking). We are using the bathroom as the time out area and will only let her out once she is quiet if she performs again she goes back in (this was suggested as well by the behaviourist). We were making her sit and wait for her food and using a release word 'ok' at meal times, but the behaviourist suggest we 'gesture eat' for example pretend to eat some of her food then put the bowl down and walk away with no sit and stay? Most of your advise sounds similar as to what the behaviourist said i guess i just have to make sure every family member is sticking to these methods 100% and hope to see some improvement.

Hi there, I posted a while ago about my dog and a very difficult problem behaviour she has. From a very young age she has gone nuts (barking frantically, circling, guarding people) if she thinks they are going to leave the house wether it be a family member or visitor. She is just over a year old now with no improvement. We have had a dog behaviourist come in for a home consultation previously and he advised that it could be a pack order problem with her thinking she was above us, (she is quite a dominant bitch). He told/showed us techniques of how to show our leadership. e.g only giving her affection even eye contact on our terms not when she is demanding/seeking it (which she does alot), walk her twice a day, feed her after ourselves, everybody ignores her for 5-10 mins when we first enter the house and only praise when she is calm, relaxed. We have been keeping to all this advise, but the "leaving" behaviour hasnt seemed to improve at all. Does anyone have any ideas?

I work in a vet clinic in NZ and usually we only vaccinate pups for KC at their 9 or 12 week vacc and then they dont need a booster till they're approx 15 months (a year after their last vacc). We vaccinate dogs quite often while they're under anaesthetic with no side effects- we just can't give a KC vacc if the dog is on antibiotics

Dentals are a very routine procedure and the animal only needs to be deep enough under general anaesthesia so that they stay still (as long as they just need a scale and polish no extractions), we dont do humans under general anaesthetics for a basic scale and polish do we? If you are worried about how she will handle the anaesthetic, quiz the vet on what pre meds, induction agent and anaesthetic gas they use and possibly think about pre anaesthetic bloods to look at renal and hepatic function?

Royal Canin does a Canine Hepatic (liver) diet, so you could swap or alternate between hills l/d and RC hepatic?

Could be diet related? or a skin problem?

I would also suggest crate training him. I have a 7 month old pomeranian puppy and when I first got her she was terrible at settling down for the night (would carry on barking and whimpering). When my pup was nine weeks (when I first got her) she would be put in her crate at 10pm, then I would wake at least once during the night to toliet her then she would sleep through till at least 6am, just ignore any barking or whinging in between. She was sleeping in her crate from 10pm till 6am with no toliet breaks or whingying by 14 weeks old.

Yes Royal canin dental food is in their "vet only" prescription range of food. You can get a dog dental formula for under 10 kg dogs and another for large dogs. Advance has the same sort of deal, one for small dogs then one for dogs 25kg+. I work in a vet clinic and would say palatabilty wise royal canin far outshines advance.

I would agree with asking the breeder as well. If they are anything like my pups breeder. They love hearing about your pup losing it's first tooth and how everything is going. My breeder was also able to tell me how its littermate was going with teething and also what my pups parents were like with teething. I dont think it hurts to ask others on the forum as well though, you shouldn't be penalised for it

They lose their decidious (baby)teeth in between 4-6 months of age. Get her chewing on lots of thing to help loosen them.

I've noticed people are looking for a treatment that does fleas and ticks. I've had feedback here in NZ that frontline plus isn't working as well as it used to. There is a new flea and tick treatment called Practic which as i know was tested in Aussie so must be available over there. It's a once a month topical treatment like Frontline but they have studies to prove it is more effective than frontline

Tapeworms are transmitted through fleas. Advantage multi as it's known in NZ or advocate covers fleas, ear mites and most worms except tapeworm as it goes with the theory if the animal doesn't have fleas it shouldn't have tapeworm. So even if you use advocate on a puppy I would still probably worm the dog using drontal or endoguard etc. every 2 weeks till 12 weeks then every month till 6 months etc