SilverHaze

You could always ask if the breeder program will be available for WA - can't hurt to ask! The reps contact details are on the website.

The rep we spoke to at a show gave us a card to fill out and return to them to sign up to the breeders program. Conditions of the program were that the food was to be ordered directly through the reps, and they would organise delivery. I don't believe this program is available through regular retailers. The puppy packs she told us about sounded fabulous!!! Oh and i believe you had to buy a minimum of 2 bags (the largest size) each time you purchased to get the breeder price. We've sent the card off, so waiting on a reply from them now.

SilverHaze - I've found Artemis Osopure Power to be outstanding for conditioning dogs. Very palatable and of course without the fillers. Alternately, might be worth trying the Maximal which is grain free as it does tend to add condition both via muscle and toning. Sags :nahnah: Thanks Sags! I think the Osopure Power may be the way to go - i want something which I can keep him on through race season, so the more power the better lol I love the results of the eagle pack power, and the dogs perform well and look great on it, but it's just not helping me with this boy, and the output isn't crash hot either, quite sinewy at times.

Rysup, can you let me know how you go with the Artemis? I have a young male here who i'm having trouble getting a bit of condition on - i know he's young and growing etc, but i'm sick of looking at his ribs! He's on eagle pack power, and i'm trying to keep his diet pretty bland (no wheat, just chicken & beef raw). Just wondering if the Artemis might give him that extra boost. I've got a card to fill in to go on the breeders program for it, and the price will be equal to eagle, just wondering if i should do the swap.

Well personally i'd lift the dogs too, but i guess for people who complain that they are too heavy, there are those special tables. Perhaps the OP might want to teach his to put his front feet on the grooming table, and then lift the back end up - best way for everyone involved! Personally i just call table and my dogs leap up! The hard bit comes when you have to explain to 2 of the 3 up on the table that they then have to get down!

Labradors are big dogs and I wouldn't have thought that groomers would be lifting them up on tables to groom them ;) - correct me if I am wrong groomers Also in re-reading the OP post, I am shocked that the groomer clipped this dog's whiskers Why on earth would they do that , I would be very upset if any of my Lab's whiskers were clipped during a grooming session . I believe thats what hydraulic tables are for ;) No way in hell i'd be grooming dogs all day on the ground!!!

Teach your dog to stand up on a table - this is where you should do all your grooming. This also indicates to the dog that it is "grooming time" and will help let the dog know what behaviour is expected of it. Most dogs are less inclined to want to play when they are up high (as mentioned by previous posters). Use two people if needs be, and reward and brush. Reinforce with the stand command. If the dog wants to play, a firm no, then stand, should be used. Once the dog settles - rewards! The dog will enventually get used to being up on the table and being groomed up there. And it's also much better for you your back, and will help when you need to put a bit of elbow grease into getting all that coat out!!!

PM me the details you have ros and i should be able to track down most of his pedigree for you

Never heard of it before, but he sure is a cutie!!! Where has he come from?

We've had a few issues there in the past months as well. IMO they have lost the personal touch - nothing is followed through by the same vet - and communication has gone by the wayside. And no - not as cheap as they used to be either. A consultation and some rimdayl tablets cost me $98 They understand breeders - it's a bonus, but it's not enough to keep us there anymore.

Ok cool - so i can't really go wrong, except my friend will kill me for getting rid of her soft lovely puppy coat

So do you strip out all that can come out as a pup? Or do you start shaping them right from the start? I enjoy grooming but have never had anything to do with terriers or terrier coats before - total newbie as you can guess lol I'm seeing her this weekend, so i'll have a play around with her, see what her coat is doing.

OK a friend has a new westie pup, and is thinking about showing it (well i told her she comes to the shows with us anyways so she may as well show it!). Breeder is happy for the pup to be shown, but breeder is in another state so can't help us out here. At what age should you start preparing the coat for showing? I have siberians which are pretty much a wash, dry and fluff breed, so stripping etc are all new to me! I've got a few groomer friends i can catch up with at shows, but since we aren't showing for the next few weeks, just want to make sure there isn't anything else that needs to be done to the coat in the meantime. Pup is approx 12 weeks.

We supply a collar that will last the pup from puppy right through to adulthood - and of course give our puppy people the choice of colour! We like to supply these collars as then we know they pups have got a good strong collar that they can't break or slip out of. Such a small thing to do to ensure the continued safety of our pups. We have done rescue in the past and the kinds of collars i've seen dogs come through on make me shudder. As the pups are growing i send a friendly reminder to puppy owners to adjust the pups collar now and then (just in case!).

Do many people ask the breeders of their pups what the dogs are being fed on before they pick the pup up? With our last litter each pup went with a big bag of puppy food, however all puppy buyers already knew what they were eating anyways! And they certainly weren't expecting the big bag of food went sent home with them!

Animal Eye Care is the cheapest i know of. Andrew Turner is almost double the cost. And from what friends in NSW have told me the prices up there are even higher We always get our dogs done with Robin Stanley, however have used Andrew in the past and he is excellent as well!

Not known in the breed. Sounds like either an injury, or as you say, an unfortuante "genetic hiccup" I recommend seeing a vet who specialises in these types of problems. If my dog had something like this my first port of call would be my dogs chrio who specialises in sports medicine.

lol - my guys don't ever get a chance to decide if they like tablets or not. They are just shoved down their throat quick and easy!

I import all my sledding harnesses from the US. It works out the same as buying them here. Try the Manmat distance harness from Howling Dog in Alaska - http://www.howlingdogalaska.com/supplies.html They also sell a Pulka harness. These harness are very nicely put together. I have bought harnesses from them before - very nice people to deal with. ETA - Sandy from Windchill will make any you ask Just give her a call and ask.

An easy way to enforce your leadership, especially with a dominant dog who likes "push the boundaries" every now and then is to do short obedience exercises. Simple things like heeling, sit stays, recall etc, all require the dog to obey you. This in turn enforces your leadership of the dog in a manner that is not threatening, and does not force a "stand off" where if you do things wrong, the dog may actually get the upper paw for a while. I have to do this with my old girl, who is still the most dominant dog when it comes to people i have met to date. Other dogs she couldn't give a shit about - power is with the people, and she knows it!

Rules rules and rules... These are not dogs that you can allow to run wild and do whatever they want. They thrive on rules and structure. They need their boundaries. If you have these in place, you should be right with them. The more dominant they are the more rules in place

With new owners - never ever! Especially if they aren't willing to commit to regular obedience training. I do recommend finding fenced in off lead areas to satisfy the Sibe's need for exercise. I hate that the majority of Obedience schools don't hold their classes in safe, fenced in areas. They then push Sibe owners into doing off lead exercises (once they are at that level) thinking that they have reached sufficient obedience to be trusted off lead. It only takes one time - and if they don't want to be caught you will NEVER catch a siberian. I do have an off lead Siberian. I don't walk him down the street off lead, however in "relatively" safe areas, that aren't fenced in he's allowed off lead. I have another Sibe who grew up with him, and is pretty good off lead, however her prey drive is amazing and i would never trust her if she saw a rabbit or other small prey. She would be gone. These two Sibes can chill off lead in our marquee at shows, or at races, without the desire to wander off, will respond to commands while off lead etc. The others we have with us (anywhere from 2 - 10) are never even given the opportunity!

I think it's the lamb and rice that i had.

Used the bag i was given on my old desexed girl. She's dropping lots of coat and feels quite dry in coat as well. Will be putting her back on eagle pack once i've run out (which is soon thank god)!

Dr Barry Haywood, in Cranbourne Sth (approx 7 mins from KCC park). I believe he's going on 2 weeks holiday shortly though (maybe even starting this week?) so there would be a bit of a wait.