missmoo

Missmoo.. it's basically a setting which has x amount of dogs that all have problems socialising. The one that I go too at the moment have angry dogs everywhere - In front, next to you, behind, etc. I think this puts him more on edge so am looking for one that is a bit leaner.

You basically walk around in big circles, so the dogs pass each other and train them to not jump/bark/growl/other bad things.

that technique can work but IMO it works much better when you have other dogs that are well socialised, confident and self controlled to help with the process...if all dogs are on edge it makes for a melting pot rerady to explode IMO...

anyway look for a obedience training club that will take dogs with issues...you may have to hunt around...sorry I dont live over your way so i dont know of anyone buti'm sure someone will come along to help

good luck

Hi All,

I have a German Shepherd (17 months old) who has been going to anti social training on and off for the past 10 months. Unfortunately it isn't helping and I am looking for something new. The place I have been going to was recommended by my vet and is run my an animal behaviourist.

Does anyone know of any training in Perth, WA that might be able to assist with this?

what sort of things do they do at the anti social training? ;)

deleted

all dogs have drive......different breeds have different levels of drive...

look for a dog that is suited physically for agility eg: agile, fast, sound temperament and skeletal structure (ie: no hip or elbow displaysia etc), go for dogs that have kelpie, border collie, aussie shepherd or something similar...not to say other breeds cant do agility but some are "built" for agility better than others

you can certainly take a tug toy but remember where the dog has been lately and that it may not be in a conducive environment to "play" with a tug....you can increase this drive with time and training....my labrador is more food motivated but we do agility and his drive for tugging has increased immensely with training....ppl tend to give up too easily with tug play thinking "oh the dog isnt interested"...the dog is interested we as handlers just need to work harder in most cases...

also look for a dog that is not too "clingy", it will be hard for you to train the dog to go/look ahead, a dog that is semi confident at least on surfaces, this will improve with training but it would help you a lot if this confidence is somewhat there already

have fun :p

put your dog onto natural anti inflammatories if you can.......seaweed, garlic and rosehip is good as well celery, joint guard, glucosamine & chondroitin, seaflex etc.....

My mastiff x rottis x lab was put onto Metacam at 15 months of age and went in to Chronis Renal Failure at the age of 4years......she was then put onto tramal beacuse sh could no longer take Non Steroidal Anti Inflammatories because they caused her kidney failure.....tramal and numerous other pain drugs did not help her joints at all....she had arthritis in every major joint and hip & elbow displaysia.....

She was PTS 5 months after her CRF was diagnosed (which almost killed her) because there was nothing that I could find that would ease her pain....

Regardless whether you use Metacam or the human equiv. of Mobic they all carry a risk of causing kidney failure.....regular vet checks for kidney function need to be done and long term use is not healthy

i agree with peresphone.....retrain the toilet training again...keep an eye him and if the small weeing continues take him to a vet....sometimes hormonal changes can cause incontinence

because your pup passed some worms, worm them again in 4 weeks just in case there are still some larvae in the intestines......all people in the house and any other animals should be wormed as well and again in 4 weeks....

You should PM Kelpie-I,

She is an avid Kelpie lover as well as a trainer, she may be able to give you some solid advice and help

When Iwork my labrador for obedience, agility or trick training his cue is "ready"...I say it in an excited voice to get his attention and to also rev him up a little bit. With repetition he understood that this means we are going to do some work...he loves it

Training is always ended on a high.....even we have only been training for a minute....he is given his release word which is "party", this is his cue that he is allowed to "break" from his commanded possie

I did the ndtf course and loved all of it bar ADT. I thought ADT were an embarrassment and a disgrace ! The majority, NOT ALL, but the majority of Instructors were so puffed up , strutting around too full of their own importance to know anything on how to help dogs or their owners........and very few knew anything about dogs and how to train them. In the time I had to attend I saw situations that were borderline to downright cruelty....ignorant instructors telling ignorant owners what to do with their dogs. So, on this alone I am glad they have gone belly up !

I think your comments are harsh and uninformed. Dog training is all about keeping an open mind and not just using one particular method over another. I have never seen cruelty at ADT and believe me I would be the first to say something. I have had nothing but good experiences with the trainers and clients at ADT. The so called "ignorant" trainers you speak of have all done the NDTF course and where employed by ADT because of their enthusiasm, passion, skill and integrity for dog training. The "ignorant" clients are their because they see the value and need to train their dogs. IMO if you are to be a great dog trainer then you need an open mind...something you appear to be lacking judging by your comments

I did the NDTF course and highly recommend it. You get a lot of information of different techniques from a lot of different lecturers ans instructors.

Hi all

I'm meant to enrol in the NDTF course by tomorrow (to get the pay in full discount).. I'm really interested in seeing what their certificate and statement of completed modules looks like (preferably first.. before enrolling tomorrow!)..

Has anyone got a scanned copy of theirs that they wouldnt mind showing me?

Hi Midnightmint,

In answer to your original question before your thread got side tracked. Copy of the cert, not great copies but you can still see what it looks like.

sometimes dogs will rub there mouths on the ground, chew sticks et. if you are feeding your dog bones on concrete or he is having a bad tim teething which is causing him to rub his mouth this can cause little bumps on the inside of the lips which can turn to ulcers. best to keep an eye them and if you are concerned see a vet.

There could a number of reasons why your pup is lethargic. Some minor some major. You need to take him to a vet asap to get him checked out. His teeth may be an issue but it is not unusual for the puppy teeth to still be there when the adult teeth are pushing thru. As long as the puppy teeth are loosening they will eventually fall out. If they arent then they will need to be removed, but get a vet to have a look.

Your pup lethargy could be due to a skeletal problem such as hip displaysia which is painful and makes the pup not want to do anything and can put them off there food or your pup may have a "doggy bug". Either way take him t the vet. Puppies are not something you wait and see with IMO.

in addition to spraying the ground, try your dogs on garlic and brewers yeast. my 2 are on this and they have no fleas at all. about 1 teaspoon of each for an adult dog once per week. mix in with food.

Melo,

You will know. You will look at your girl one day and know the time is right. Trust in your dog to give you signs when she has had enough and you know your decision will be the right one. It is the hardest thing to do to let your beloved pups go to puppy heaven.

You need to see a Behaviourist. This behaviour will only get worse over time and has the potential to cause you or someone else serious injury. There could be several reasons why the behaviour has started but you really need to think and come up with some possibilities as to why, what may sem insignificant to you or anyone who has been around your pup can have an impact on the dog. What appears to be puppy play behaviour, and it is hard to really say without actually seeing the behaviour, can in fact be an aggressive response. Either way this type of behaviour isnt acceptable IMO.

Is there any in Melbourne in the south eastern suburbs?

Would love to take my two dogs (1.5yrs & 4 months) to one, mainly just to socialize and get a bit of exercise.

There is K9 Agility (KCC park) and Action Dogs (Doveton) but they have a 2 year waiting list. I take my Lab to Croydon Dog Obediecne Club or you could try Hastings Dog Obedience Club.

cheers,

MissMoo

Any agility/obedience club worth their weight will not put such a young pup through jumps or weave poles or even a A frame. These types of exercises place too much pressure on young joints and ligaments. When looking for agility for young dogs go with a club that will allow you to do exercises on lead and will also put you the handler through a prep class so you know what you are doing.

Most of the clubs I rang would not even look at my labrador until he was at least 12 mths of age.

Dogs under the age of 18 mths?? cant compete due to their immaturity, lack of obedience training (generally) and handler control (everything is done off leash) as well as due to problems that can occur with still growing joints.

Join a club that does puppy agility, one that is respectable and will most definately put the dogs safety first; that is a club that will not put too much pressure on a young dog nor will they allow your pup to do exercises that can compromise his safety and well being. Basically this type of class is for fun and just prepping your pup for agility for when he will be old enough for the next phase.

This is going to sound really dumb, and admittedly I should know better owning gundogs!.....

Why is there such a hugely distinct difference in type between what we know as 'show' type labs and those which come from the guide-dog breeding kennels?

My impression is that those from successful winning kennels seem very heavy, thick-set 'bulky' dogs that move accordingly.

Others I've seen (usually from guide-dog kennels or 'pet trade breeders') appear much more refined, a little finer in bone, less heavy and less 'robust'. They often (to me anyway!) seem to move more soundly too (Flame Suit!!!).

Why the distinct types? How did this happen and was it for a purpose?

OR have I just got it all wrong?

I got my lab from a breeder that breeds the 'show' type labradors and 2 of his siblings from the same litter went to be guide dogs.

The "type" and size of Labradors depends on the origins and what the breeder is looking for. My black Lab is from English origins, so his head is bigger and squarer, he is slightly shorter than the "typical' lab you see around these days but he is more broader in body size and his temperament is a little quieter, he still goes a little nuts but as much as your "typical' lab you see walking down the street. The American and Australian Labradors are more refined, smaller head and slender bodies. From what I have heard the American labradors are more excitable than their English and Australian counterparts.

if you go to the tracking victoria website they will be able to give you pretty much all the information you need....

cheers

Hi all,

My boy is starting agility this weekend (just basics at this stage) and i was wondering if anyone knows where I can get my hands on some wobble boards, tunnels, weave poles, jumps etc that wont cost me the earth or where i can find decent instructions on how to go about making them for the backyard.....i want to do some foundation work before we get too involved and to help build his confidence.

having 2 entire males running together MAY cause all sorts of headaches for you......male entire dogs generally don't tolerate other male entire dogs often or very well even from the same litter....if you have no intention of breeding from them i would recommend neutering them...

as for when one will become the dominant one over the other, you should be seeing signs of that now.......they are about to have a hit of testerone (1st hormone boost usually happens around 8 mths of age)...it's not about taking extra special care it is about respecting the order of the pack (hopefully you and OH etc are the pack leaders) and not favouring the lower ranked dog over the other.

Hi,

Anything is possible but I wouldnt be too concerned with your friend playing with your pup unless she is around very ill dogs all day. I would advise your friend to get her dog vaccinated then both your pup and her dog can play together (providing her dog is well socialised).

I crate trained my pup within a few days of bringing him home at 8 weeks of age. He cried a little to begin with, but within 3 - 4 nights he stopped crying altogether. He is happy to go into his crate at bed time or any other time of the day; he loves his "house".

he gets toys to play with sometimes and the odd meal in there to keep the "positive" association with the crate going.

:p