missmoo

The reason I suggested the Proplan, is that if she previously had no issues on it, then it might be a good choice to stabilise her on , before moving onto something else. will buy a small bag and see how she goes...my husband is a Butcher and will get her some chicken necks etc as well. She has had these before without an issue. thanks again

Ive had a dog on Pro Plan before and his coat was dull so we switched to another brand (i think it was Eagle Pack) and his coat condition improved but as i saod i will take another look. Thanks

@peresphone no faecal test but that would be my next thing if she does not improve..she did lose weight last week before we took her to the Vets..aprox.300 grams but has now put that back on. @ReadySetGo thanks for that..im not a fan of Pro Plan but will take another look at it. Any other suggestions for dry food that is mainly meat based?

She is 7 1/2 months....her breeder was feeding pups on pro plan puppy...we had her on this initially and gradually switched her to Supercoat puppy and a mixture of fresh chicken mince with apple and vegetables and Phuds by the age of 12weeks. She is lethargic as well. Her symptoms present on and off. She rarely has diarrheoa. She started showing these signs and vomiting about 2 months ago.

Hello We have a stafford pup with a sensitive tummy. She vomits bile in the afternoon if we forget to feed her before around 3pm which isnt always possible as we both work. We recently had her at the Vets as she was off her food on and off for the past week. Vets did full blood workup and xrays to make sure no infection or foreign body was present - her temp was 39.5c and her red blood cells were just above the normal range other than that vet didnt find anything. She is on a 5 day course of antibiotics just in case but she is still not "right". I am wondering if a change of diet to sensitive stomach formula or type foods would work. Does anyome have any suggestions on what foods would be best. Thanks MM

that's awesome

what about dried sinew? most pet stores sell this

Hello, Has anyone done the National College Ttraditional Medicine Small Animal Nutrition course? I am interested but was looking for opinions on the content before I spend $1700... Or do you know of anywhere else that does such a course? cheers, MM

rotti x lab x pointer gorgeous dog

that's awesome...good job... wish i could take her but sadly already have a house full

not all dogs bark to announce arrivals. we have 3 dogs and they rarely bark...they almost never bark when someone comes to the door or on our property but they do let us know by other behaviours.... just because your dog is a GSDx doesn't automatically mean she will guard for you... dogs don't just "grow" into guard dogs... if you want your dog to guard or I think in your case what you are talking about is a watch dog, you need to train a dog to do so properly

the link on page one of this thread from K9 Pro is still active...is this the link you used? MM

yep, that sums it up for me too

I learned Socialisation from the NDTF course and also from other instructers/trainers I have worked with over the last 4 years.....

I am not sure where you got the idea that anyone here is saying that dogs should only have 'restrained leash greetings' IMO, the kind of people who would want to 'neutralise' their dogs are not Joe Public who get a puppy from a pet store and then stuff it up by failing to socialise and neutralise their dog properly. Neutralised dogs are not dogs that never interact with other dogs. They are dogs that have been taught that other dogs are of a low or 'neutral' value and aren't anything overally exciting. Missmoo: As an obedience instructor I can tell you that if I started to explain the concept of neutralisation I'd lose the majority of people in my class in the first few seconds. What I do explain to them is that socialisation is not just about letting your dogs play with other dogs but it is about giving your dog a new experience, teaching them how to deal with new experiences, and assigning that experience with a value. A lot of people in my classes have a lightbulb moment when I explain how we often set out to do the right thing by socialising our puppies but often teach them that other dogs have a higher value than us and the rewards that we control. I'd also suggest that a fair chunk of people who come to the club I instruct at are there because they struggle to walk their dog down the street without it pulling their arm out of it's socket to try and get to another dog. These are majority of the time dogs that were socialised extensively with other dogs from a young age, but whose owners missed the other crucial points of socialisation. I would never tell anyone in my class to never let their puppy be around other dogs because that is not what neutralisation or socialisation is about. I first read about neutralisation on DOL and I admit the first time I read about it I thought it was too extreme and not for me. But the more I have become involved in dogs and dog training the more I can see the benefit and the more converted to the concept I became. Since then I've talked to trainers and behaviourists about it quite a lot. neither do we were I work....socialisation is taught and continued thru all levels of obedience we instruct.... we also instruct the handler should be the most important and exciting thing in the dogs life, owners cant expect to get their dogs focus/attention under distraction if they aren't