sheena

I don't have pet insurance...I think it is just a big rip-off. Instead, I try to choose healthy pups from healthy parents. It's not always a guarantee, but I am sure it helps. I would just draw on my savings if my dogs needed medical treatment. If I didn't have those savings, then for starters I would factor this in BEFORE I committed to another animal.

I have been using paw paw ointment on my lips for years & they just seemed to be getting dryer.....one day, I decided to rub a bit of coconut oil into them & whammo.... That's the only thing I will use now :)

Ditch the paw paw ointment & rub in a little cold pressed organic coconut oil :)

I am trying to attach the PDF info about it, but not really sure what I am doing :laugh: Ohhhhh...it sort of worked. If you can't open it & are interested, then I will try Copy & Paste WAC fundraiser workshop.pdf

My girl is 65 & I bought her a "small" but there is no adjustment left. She could have got into a Medium.

No problems buying Ivermectin over here in Oz, but you would need to have a lot of dogs to make it worth while or have another use for it (cattle)

These look like a good idea, but not sure if they are available in Australia & no good if you have more than one dog Auto Reward Anti-Bark Training system From Clean Run. http://www.cleanrun.com/images/productvideos/PetSafeAutoTrainer.mp4

Loyalty Pet Treats in Queensland have dried tripe for $40 per kilo Dried Tripe

At $13.50 a tablet (for my dogs)...I guess that works out about the same as applying Advantix fortnightly. Proban used to cost about $7 a week for each of my dogs.

Don't know, but Comfortis works the best for fleas on my dogs (lasts a month). I have to use Advantix fortnightly for fleas otherwise. & Proban was the best for preventing ticks & that was internal.

Thanks everyone...I have passed the info on to her. I believe he has done a normal poo this afternoon. I have also suggested she give him a bit of yogurt on his meal & maybe a sardine or two.

Oh that is so close to home...my daughter lost her lovely SWF about six months ago & she recently fell in love with a pup, even though she wasn't looking for one. This one is all black with white paws & she believed that her past dog was telling her that this was the one. It reminded her so much of her old boy except the colour was opposite. All the other pups sold but this one still remained un-spoken for at 7 weeks...so it had to be :)

Thanks guys...I think she has the powdered form. I wonder how you would get the pup to take it, as I imagine it wouldn't taste too good on its own.

Can you give slippery elm to a 9 week old puppy My daughters small x breed puppy seems to be straining. He will do a little poo, but then takes 5 to 10 minutes to do the rest. The first bit is firm but as he gets more out it becomes softer, which I think is normal, but not sure if it should be taking this long to complete the task & then she has to clean his bottom. She wormed him a couple of days ago with something the vet gave her. He is also skooting on his bum, which I thought may be to do with not fully defecating. Would slippery elm help him do you think & if so how much would you give a tiny pup.??

Home » Dogs » Fleas & Ticks » NexGard NexGard NexGard Description: NEXGARD™ (afoxolaner) is available in four sizes of beef-flavoured, soft chewables for oral administration to dogs and puppies according to their weight. Each chewable is formulated to provide a minimum afoxolaner dosage of 2.5 mg/kg. Indications: NEXGARD kills adult fleas and is indicated for the treatment and prevention of flea infestations (Ctenocephalides felis), and the treatment and control of paralysis tick infestations in dogs and puppies 8 weeks of age and older, weighing 2kg of body weight or greater, for one month. Dosage and Administration: NEXGARD is given orally once a month, at the minimum dosage of 2.5 mg/kg. Dosing Schedule: NEXGARD can be administered with or without food. Care should be taken that the dog consumes the complete dose, and treated animals should be observed for a few minutes to ensure that part of the dose is not lost or refused. If it is suspected that any of the dose has been lost or if vomiting occurs within two hours of administration, re-dose with another full dose. If a dose is missed, administer NEXGARD and resume a monthly dosing schedule. Efficacy: Paralysis tick, a unique Australian parasite. Ixodes holocyclus is present along the east coast of Australia and poses a serious health risk to dogs. Each year thousands of dogs present to veterinary hospitals with signs of tick paralysis caused by this parasite. Two Australian studies were performed to assess the efficacy of NEXGARD® against this potentially deadly parasite. In each study, 50 ticks were infested onto each dog on day – 1, 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35. NEXGARD® was administered on day 0. Tick counts were conducted on Days 1,2,3 (24, 48 and 72 hours after administration of NEXGARD®) and thereafter at 24, 48 and 72 hours post each subsequent tick infestation. In both studies, there was significant mortality of ticks within 24 hours at all time-points and >98.5% of ticks were killed within 48 hours after NEXGARD® administration and weekly infestations.

That warning that they have there when you open the link...is a bit scary. But I certainly like the idea. There was some company in America a while back with a product for ticks made of the same product as Comfortis.

I was going to suggest you get an account with Fastways...but I see you are not happy with them. We use them to transport the Black Hawk Dog Food & have never had a problem. It certainly is a cheaper option to Australia Post. :)

Are the dog treats & edible Christmas tree Australian I wouldn't feed any treats to my dogs that wern't Australian. I can see why you would be very very disappointed

Yeah me too...I usually mute my videos..pity I can't blank my image out also :laugh:

Are you doing it as an Auditor too...is that a photo of your Luka...if so lovely photo & lovely dog :)

I thought she might be sable, but then I thought it may be just the light shining on her coat bringing out the red. She is lovely...looking forward to seeing how she goes with the course. I am just doing it as auditor cause I don't have enough download allowance to post videos I am also doing one of Stacy Richards on-line courses in Foundation. Trying to get ready for when I take my first class of "beginners" at the beginning of next year. I just love foundation work, but I have been warned not to bore the pants off my new class. It makes it hard when I know that to do reasonably well at agility, the dogs & handlers need the foundation BEFORE they ever see an obstacle. I even introduce it back into my Advanced class every now & then. Maybe someone on here who teaches raw beginners, might be able to give me an idea as to what obstacles I can bring out on the first night. I thought a short tunnel & maybe get them running to a target through a couple of jumps. Oh...& lesson number one will be Park Your Dog :laugh:

I didn't know you had Bc's....what colour is the dog laying down at the front ???

I saw one in Bunnings the other day, but it was more of a square shape...not sure if you could convert it to rectangle...maybe google Bunnings :)

Aww, Cricket that's so cute. We would use the stand on the lead method to teach boisterous shelter dogs to be calm around people. Often these dogs would have spent a lot of time alone in the back yard with the only interaction with their people being to do "active" things like walk, play, be fed etc so they never learnt to be calm and self-settle when people are around. Because any training cues, rewards or corrections you give are attention in themselves you defeat the purpose of what you're trying to teach them by using those whereas by standing on the lead and ignoring them you leave it up to them to realise that their best option is being calm (the desired behaviour). I'm fairly sure this technique is actually using negative reinforcement - so the unpleasant consequence of the lead being tight and jerking them if they are jumping around or pulling is removed when they are calm. I agree with you that the video is teaching a different thing to a wait until released, it's for unexpected stimulating situations where not complying with a cue will be self-rewarding for the dog. This method gives a clear physical cue (standing on the lead) and doesn't allow the dog to disregard the cue for a self-reward. ETA - it isn't the only way you could teach it though. As many of you have done, you can train a well rehearsed, well proofed stay or wait using positive reinforcement that would do the same thing but for dogs that find human attention highly rewarding that would be hard work! Yes - that's the kind of thing I was meaning. :) I think this will be a good thing to introduce to my beginners class when we start at the beginning of the year, as it can be a very stimulating experience coming to agility class for the first time for most dogs. Then they can lead onto really nice "stays" as we get further into it & the dogs learn to relax a bit better. I've never taken a Beginners Class before, so I am a bit nervous about what should be taught first, without boring the pants off anyone so they don't come back :laugh:

It would be a good idea, as Pers said, to get him slowly conditioned to having his feet handled. Maybe someone has been rough with him in the past. Lots of yummy treats (I would use a clicker) & a little bit at a time. How are you going to trim his nails if you can't handle his feet I would be putting a soft muzzle on him if he gets that aggressive & it is absolutely necessary to handle his feet. Again introduce it slowly & in a positive manner :)