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Everything posted by sheena
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Hi Sheena, just want to jump in and say hi, I'm in Coffs and was reading all about BH and wondering how on earth I was going to try it when I ran into either your son or son-in-law (he mentioned his mother bred BC's) at the markets. I bought a small bag but it might be a while before I buy more coz I have like 20kg+ of pro plan and Eagle Pack Holistic Select sitting around (work in a pet store). I'm happy on Holistic but Aussie made BH is winning me over - just can't tell the boss. Sorry, just wanted to say how happy I was to see BH being sold "out there" where I happened to be walking. I'm hoping to get the weekend of the coffs trial off, if I do I'll come say hi! Glad you liked the food...it has certainly won my two border collies over...you can't miss us, we will have the two darkest chocolate BC at the trial (ones just a big pup) see you there ;) ETA..In regards to your other dog foods, do what I did when I changed over to Black Hawk....I gave all my other stuff (almost full bags) to the local RSPCA Animal Shelter. They gladly accepted it
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I feel it a bit unfair that my post has been removed from this. I was answering the OP's original question & it has been removed, I can't see that I have broken any rules.
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We started handing out free puppy packs to local breeders to hand out to their puppy buyers, & thought it would be a good idea to extend this offer to all ANKC registered Breeders who currently buy their kibble from us. So if you are interested there are more details on http://www.grevilleacottagebordercollies.com/free-puppy-packs.asp At this rate, we are heading for bankruptcy It is not a general Black Hawk offer. ;)
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Hang on...am I missing something here You are going to put in a bulk order to get it at a discount, but then you have to fiddle around & pay postage to get it out to each & everyone of you. Wouldn't it be quicker & cheaper just to order it individualy, seeing it is on free postage ETA...I guess 20 % would probably make it worthwhile, depending on what it would cost you to then post it out interstate. Pity I don't have an agressive dog.
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Been raising my BC pup on Adult Kibble plus RMB since I got him at 11 weeks & he's never looked back. I did this on the advice of a lot of people on this forum including breeders.
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I have just emailed that off to you too, so between the two, one might work Cheers
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Go to the first thread & click on the link for Australia Wide contacts...there are a few places in VIC.
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For the very first time at training last night I gave my girl "time out". For most of the session she was doing great, then as it got dark, out came all the little dogs & people for the next class, out of the darkness. One lady in particular has a little dog on a very long rope & she takes it to an area under the lights in direct line of sight to where we are training & sort of "lunges" it. To top it off last night, she also had some big furry toy on another string to get her little "squealer" excited. Our instructor, finally went & told her to "go somewhere else". But after that I couldn't get my girl to focus on me no matter what I tried, so in utter frustration I stuck her back in the car & shut the door. After 5 minutes I took her back out & she was "all Mine" again. I have never tried "time out" before & I wonder if it might have really been effective. Anyone else done this
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Coffs Harbour trial is on 17th & 18th Sept, if anybody wants me to bring in Black Hawk Adult Dog/Puppy/Feline either in 1kg, 2kg, 3kg, 5kg, 10kg or 20kg bags please "message" me. If you want the smaller bags, please give me a few days to bag them down for you. You can find the details on my website. I will have free samples to give out too, so feel free to come & ask for one. The club is also giving away 30 smaller bags as first prizes & there will be some bags on the raffle table. So good luck & see you on the day ;) PS. the ADAA Grand Prix is on at the end of this month, & we probably don't have room for any more 20 kilo bags, but could fit in some smaller quantities
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I started the day I got my pup home at 11 weeks old & the breeder had already introduced him to things as well. He is now nearly 6 months & is soaking his learning up like a sponge. If you would like to get a really good book on foundation training for puppies, click on this link...it is on free postage from Clean run in America....good luck with your new pup & enjoy the journey http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2502&ParentCat=449 If you click on my web site below, you will find a link to lots of other books & DVD's which I have found really useful.
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;) and they won't while you continue to carry them. Yeah, they are getting there. The little one actually walked all the way down on her own a couple of times on the weekend. To be fair they are both quite small and the steps are large in comparison. They have a problem with taking that first step, if I put them on the first step they will walk the rest of the way down (very slowly). But no matter what treats I use or how long I wait they just can't bring themselves to take that first step. Talked to the trainer at puppy school about it and he said it was common with little dogs and large steps. But yeah, we usually make them walk down the stairs on their own but are still helping them with the first step, however we do training with them a couple of times a week on the stairs. They will get there eventually. Maybe try back-chaining it. ie start by putting them half way down, if they are comfortable with this, & click & treat when they go down, then move up one more step & repeat...keep repeating this until they are on the top step. Having said that, it is not real good for young dogs to go up & down steps too much until they have matured, can be bad for their hips. I wish someone would tell that to my young boy There is no stopping him, so all I can do is cross my fingers & hope for the best.
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The whippet we had many years ago, had no odour at all, that is one of the reasons why we got a whippet. My BC's smell when they are wet, but I can't smell them when they are normal (dry) unless they have been rolling in a dead goanna or something
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Trailer or better still get yourself a bigger backyard so you can stay home & train.
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This video on the news is disgusting...the poor dog, raising a litter of pigs as well as it's own big pups http://www.abc.net.au/news/2011-09-04/farm-dog-rears-piglets-in-cuba/2869828
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Just to note here - I personally don't see it as 'taking away the food' if you raise the food back up BEFORE you present it (i.e it hits the floor), you are simply giving the dog a choice. It behaves = it gets to eat dinner. It's like when you are training a trick ect, the dog does not associate not being able to get the treats in your treat bag with you, they learn to behave in a way you find desirable to earn those treats. (I know that is worded really poorly but hopefully you get my meaning Mas) Thankyou RallyVally, at last someone that agrees with me. You put it very nicely. I have found this method has created a very well mannered puppy & he has the most fabulous stay, during all distractions, not just at dinner time. His startline stays for agility, are fantastic & he is not quite 6 months old. To him, it's a game, & he loves it
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I should have added there, that I have seperate areas to feed them both, but will often put their food up close to the barrier. The other dog doesn't need to wait for her dinner until I put her dish down, then she has to wait too.
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How Do You Start Training Distance Work?
sheena replied to krustie22's topic in Training / Obedience / Dog Sports
I have an excellent DVD from Clean Run, called "Dial up The Distance" by Kristy Netzer. Not sure if there is any real "quick fix", but I have taught my girl that "out over" using a thrusting of the arm, hand signal, means take the far jump & "here Over" & dropping arm to my side, means take the closer one to me. But it is an excellent DVD for distance training. -
I would say that TOT is what I practice with my pup, but I have taught it in a way where he has never needed to be tied up then released to his food. If you can shape your pup to learn the behaviour by "offering" then he will learn quicker & it will stay in his mind better than if you physically restrain him.
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At around $85 - $ 90 for 20 kilos you can feed him Black Hawk, but if that's still out of your budget, then maybe look in to something like Bonnie Puppy available at Produce stores.
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Does your new puppy really know what you mean, when you say "sit"? When I got my new puppy, there was to be no interaction with him at while ever he was jumping around. I taught him to sit & wait for his meal in tiny gradual steps...& it didn't take long for him to work it out, now he will sit & wait forever till I release him even if he thinks the other dog might get his meal...he will just not move, & I never have to tell him to sit, he just offers the behaviour. I started off by holding his dish up close to my chest & made eye contact with him & waited till he calmed down & he "offered" sit. Then I would gradually lower the dish & as soon as he moved, up the dish went again to my chest. At first I would only lower it a bit & if he staid still, I would quickly put it on the ground & say "get it". After probably half dozen meals I could then get it right down onto the ground before releasing him. But make sure you always release him before he moves, otherwise you are rewarding him for moving. Then extend the time he has to stay still before he gets released to his dish...don't make it too hard at first & don't test his boundaries. Try to always let him succeed by only increasing it a second at a time. Now at the age of 6 months, I never have to tell my pup to "sit" or "stay", he just knows that when I put my hands up to my chest (don't have to have anything in them), he plonks his bum on the floor & just will not move till I release him. I can dance around him, throw balls, talk to the fairies & he will not move a paw till I say "Ok". You are making it too hard for your pup to stay still, if you have him around while you are dishing up his food & really, really way too hard if he thinks the other dog might get it first. Don't set him up to fail. ;)
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Wow....what a great run...a well deserved win. Congratulations Vickie & Trim
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You may find this question irrelevant...but where did you get the puppy from ? If she was a pet shop pup then it will be much, much harder to toilet train, then one that has come from a breeder who has already introduced the pups to using grass from a young age.
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Sounds like it ;)
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Plasticoat in Victoria, also trading as Plascorp. Chambers Rd Altona North 03 9391 4011 What do you actually ask for?? I had a look at their website, but got a bit confused.
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Keen To Start Competing In Agility
sheena replied to krustie22's topic in Training / Obedience / Dog Sports
Maybe they can continue to do the rest of the weaves, but for someone after just time, they can just keep running past them...no further penalties. At the last trial I went to, I noticed one judge ordering handlers to keep running when they missed...she wasn't very happy with people who re-entered the weaves, saying that they were training in the ring. Lucky we didn't miss any, otherwise I would have taken my dog back & that would have upset the judge. So be it...I would rather be disqualified anyway, than let my dog get away with it, when she knows better. It's as stupid a rule as the wee saw I think the only new rule, I can see any sense in, is the max height of the table being 400, as some tables can get a bit wobbly when they get higher & it's only meant to be a place to pause.