Fourjays

No food for a 24 hour period and assess how he he is going/looking after that time. Very small quantities of water, every 2 hours to ensure he stays hydrated. And I mean small quantities - take up his water bowl so he has no access, give him a couple of tablespoons of water at a time and that is it. The salt in the food will make him thirsty, so you do need to keep up his water intake. Gentle on lead exercise will help to stimulate the stomach and gut and bowels too, so keep him moving around every few hours too. No hooning around or playing games as there is too much pressure on the stomach at the moment, the exercise must just be gentle walking. The vet will no doubt tell you to bring him in to monitor him - if you dont feel experienced or comfortable enough to monitor him yourself, then I would take him in just to get him checked.

I am looking for some recommendations for Australian made, premium dog foods. Particularly need one that either has a senior range, or a sensitive stomach type range, as well as puppy. Am in Canberra though, and we don't seem to have access to a great range of foods here. I have just discovered somewhere that sells Nutro though, so would welcome some comments on this product. Thanks

My understanding of speak on command is that it is done in all 3 positions, handler in front of dogs (not sure of distance away, probably about 5 metres I am guessing). Dog must not move. My girl can do this but tends to move a bit in the stand position. I also find you need your dog pretty 'up' to get them to bark consistently.

I am going to start teaching gloves as an option too - she likes retrieving, but seemed to naturally refuse food from strangers, which is why I did food refusal. But she's been getting so excited in the ring of late (her confidence is growing I think), that she forgets herself sometimes I basically started her off with dry boring food and clicker trained the refusal and used really really high value rewards - things like sausages, chicken wings and mince balls. And just built it from there. She's also been one of those dogs that twigs to the final exercise and knows that it's the end and her reward is coming - so she doesn't seem to see the exercise as negative at all cause she knows she is about to get something extra yummy anyway She got corrected by the judge in the ring at our last trial (where the judge was offereing food from the hand) and since then, she's been spot on with food refusal - from a container though of course LOL

I had this happen to me at a trial recently - had never seen a judge offer it by hand before!! Didn't know they could!! Needless to say, my little girl just couldn't help herself with that one (and btw, refusing food from hand is not something you can train on your own, refusing from a container is quite easy to train though). Oh, and in answer to original question - I train for both in Open, nice to mix it up at times. I am doing the same with the optional exercises in UD too. Have never had a dog injured by jumping the broad jump, not if trained correctly.

Well to me, the obvious thing is that I'd just go and get that hole at the bottom of the fence fixed, so they don't ahve to worry about it, they're probably worried enough as it is right now. I'd just do it.' I don't think anyone is really at fault, it was just an accident, a very unfortunately and costly one at that. I think I'd be inclined to contribute as well cause I'd just feel so awful if that sort of thing happened to me. I wouldn't say an amount though, I'd offer to pay for the x-ray costs, or the overnight hospitalisation fees but definately no drug costs (that's where the expenses are usually). Buy a 'get well soon' card and stay in touch with them to make sure the pups recovery goes well. That way they will know you care. Nothign worse than something like this happening and you don't hear anything from the other person - that tends to get people angry and is when problems start.

I hope he has a good recovery for you - they can take a while, depending on internal damage etc. Ask your vet about his diet as well as my boy couldn't handle bones for at least 12 months after his surgery but he also had some stomach necrosis and other damage which we think contributed. So just be aware there could be some issues afterwards, so check with your vet about diet. Good luck!

If your dog makes a full recovery, there is no reason why not. My old dog had GDV and gastroplexy 5 years ago now, he carries a scar but unless the judge is going to tip your boy completely upside down, they will never see it. As to breeding - there is research out there indicating a familial link. I have since found out that both my boys parents bloated. But, my personal experience suggests it is related to depth of chest, stress and even weather related (know of several dogs, mine included, who have bloated when the weather changes suddenly from really hot to cold, or vice versa). My boy sired 2 litters himself and I am not aware of any of his progeny having suffered from bloat and they are all getting on in age now. I'd personally just be making sure you don't do any breedings to bitches with a family history or relative with bloat, just to be on the safe side really.

QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Breeder, exhibitor, trainer, trialler, having owned the breed now for 12 years, been showing and trialling for 11 years. 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? Already covered previously 3. How common is it in Australia? Not overly common but with more media exposure in recent years, the breed has gotten more popular as a pet. Has always been popular as a rough shooting dog and for field work. 4. What is the average lifespan? 12-15 years though I have met 1 that was 18 years old and several that were 16, sadly have also known a few lost young as well. 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Exuberant! This is an outgoing, energetic, dynamic breed that is not for everyone. They should be capable of running around in the field all day and then also coming home and switching off and settling down in the home with you. They do not have a 'golden retriever' temperament however, whilst they should be friendly with people and other dogs, it is not expected that they are immediate friends with all that they meet, they can be slightly reserved towards strangers and do have a protective streak as well (not aggressive!) - something the Germans wanted in a dog that was meant to be a hunters best friend. They should tolerate other dogs well as this is a breed developed to work in the field with others of their own kind or different breeds. My own experience and observations have been that males in particular will bicker with other males especially when females of the species are around! Typically, they start to mentally mature at around 3 years of age and then again. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? Minimum of an hours exercise everyday, ideally off lead, as well as some training too (I recommend a minimum of the first 12 months of obedience classes - a strong recall is a must!). This breed is extremely exuberant & energetic in their teenage years (up to 3 years of age, some a bit longer) and need lots of activity and daily mental stimulation to counter act this. They are a very fun breed to have around if you yourself are an outdoor, active type of person or family. This is a breed that is meant to work in the field up until they are 10 years of age, if not longer, so they are going to be active for most of their life, they are essentially a working breed, not a suburban backyard couch potato 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? I don't recommend them for this, no, as I have seen the results of GSPs going to first time dog owners with no clue. Of course, all situations vary and if the owner was someone who'd done a lot of research and was prepared to listen and learn from their breeder, then this would be different. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? No, this breed can and does suffer from seperation anxiety. They are a dog that needs companionship. Definately not a dog you can leave in your backyard on its own for long periods of time (or like some I've come across - all the time!). They MUST be with you, or another doggy friend - or else they will become destructive, unruly, noisy or start escaping - they are well known for their climbing feats. 9. How much grooming is required? Minimal - once a week run over with a hound glove/curry comb, toenails fortnightly, ears cleaned & checked monthly - though more regularly if the dog is swimming frequently. Teeth should be taken care of either with regular bones, a dental diet, or manual cleaning. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? If not trained, then yes. All dogs around children should be supervised anyway. Not a breed I recommend for the infirm at all they are too strong and boisterous and don't suit a slower pace of life. I don't recommend this breed being left untrained at all, they must have obedience training! 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? There's not a lot that is necessarily 'common' but like with all animals/dogs, there are some problems out there. Eye problems do exist, ranging from entropian to loose eyelids Skin allergies exist, particularly in some lines There is some incidence of hip dysplasia and OCD (though OCD isn't necessarily an inherited condition either) I have been made aware of quite a few incidences of epilepsy of late as well Temperament issues do exist as well, ranging from shyness, fearfullness through to aggression, more commonly towards other dogs, but I have seen it towards people as well - this is not necessarily an inherited issue however, temperament can, and is more often, affected by environment and early socialisation. Other minor issues: umbilical hernias, bite/dentition issues, ear infections 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) The main thing I would be asking is first of all, what activities do they do with their GSP to prove their worth to the breed? Why are they breeding this particular litter - all breeders worth their salt should have a plan and direction of where they are heading with each and every breeding that they do. Do they health test? And if so, what? The breed average for hips is around 8 or 9. Hip scores should be as low and as even as possible eg 0:0 or 2:2. Elbows shoud be 0:0. Be aware though that some imported lines the scores have been higher (have seen this in UK lines, the average there seems to be higher than we have here) Ask about health issues/temperament/credentials/titles of the parents. View as many of the relatives of the litter as possible - go and view the breeders premises if possible to see how clean it is, how their dogs are looked after etc. ASK FOR REFERENCES!! Again, a good breeder will have people happy to be references for them and let you know, or let you meet, puppies they have bought from that particular breeder. Go to shows/trials/events to see as many of the breed as you can and talk to as many people as you can. Don't believe everything that you are told (especially by some breeders, they don't all tell the truth), try to talk to owners as well and get a balanced view of the breed and of the lines that are available out there. Also ask about the longevity of their lines too. And ask about what support you get when buying one of their puppies. Some will just take your money, you want someone who is there for the life of your dog, to answer any questions you may have and to follow your journey through life together