Paws4Thought

Ah its good to hear I'm not alone! I didn't know about the carbs thing, I've only heard comments about overall energy value of the food and amount of protein. I understand what you are saying about growth rates - we spent a lot of time ensuring my youngest wasn't growing too fast. Donny (my RR with ED) has been on Joint Guard for ages and its been good, I think. There is a newer product on the market allegedly a bit better called Glyde, though I've not tried it myself and am only basing that on what my vet has told me. Did you do the whole Cartrophen injections thing? It seems we will both be waiting to see if anybody can offer specific nutritional advice! Here's hoping!

Hello - just wondering where people hear about different seminars and conferences that might be coming up?? I often find myself missing out because I don't know where to check! Any suggestions would be great.

I've become increasingly aware of the option to put my dogs on a raw diet. I'm starting to hunt down books, web sites etc to get as much information as I can before I start down this road. I have two Rhodesian Ridgeback x's, one of which is 2 and a half years old and healthy, the other who has just turned one and has mild elbow dysplasia. I'm wondering if anybody has had to tailor the raw diet to meet the specific requirements of a dog with ED? I understand that the energy levels and amount of protein and calcium need to be carefully managed in dogs with ED, and am wondering how you go about monitoring and controlling that with raw diets? I want to make sure I am very precise and gather as much information as possible. If anybody has had related experience I would love to hear it. Also, any suggestions for beginning in the world of raw would be much appreciated. I plan to get Dr Billinghurst's books and start there. I am also curious about how people find the pre-packaged BARF foods - are they as good as DIY? Thank you in advance

I agree, not too late at all. I crate trained a 2 year old. I just took it more carefully with him, offering a lot of positive reinforcement, motivation, and praise until now he WANTS to be in his crate. You can help the dogs along by increasing their desire to be in the crate, along the lines of what has been mentioned above. This is particularly easy if he is food driven. You can fill a kong or something similar with the dogs favourite treats while he is watching, and then put it in the crate (again, with him watching) and close the door. He will see it in there and it will increase his desire to get in there too! You let his desire build, and then let him in. The stuffed kong (or whatever you choose to use) is then rewarding him :D Similarly, toys work well too. Depends on what motivates your particular dog. I liked the stuffed kong because he was naturally inclined to lay down with it straight way, extending the time he was in the create (my dog would grab a toy and dash off again, but for some reason not so with a stuffed kong). I hope that helps!

Thank you very much, guys, appreciated :D I've also done the usual thing and sent an e-mail to my network of trusted trainers, behaviourists and experienced dog friends alike, so hopefully we can make some progress. Any particular details that anybody would like to share would be most welcome. Its often good to hear the stories of people in a similar boat.

Hello All, I have two RR x's, the oldest is two and a half and has, over time, developed a problem interacting with other dogs. He essentially has dog aggression problems (based on excitement and a lack of knowledge of the correct way to interact I think, not anger per se) which means I can't take him near other dogs. There have been exceptions to this rule, but basically when we are out and about, he must be kept away from dogs on the pathway (or any which are often off lead). He has been through obedience training his whole life. At obedience training, he is kept at a distance but is relatively well controlled. Obviously the plan here has been to gradually densensitise him. This has gone reasonably well, but has plateaued and its still really difficult to get his excitement under control. I've no idea how he lacks these core dog interaction skills. As a youngster, he was fine, and was well socialised. His obedience training is sound. If he could be trusted to not dash off from a trialling ring, eventually I could trial him. He's smart, and some trainers have said he has pro drive. He hangs out all day every day with my younger (1 year old) RR x. No problems. At Christmas, he spent a week with GSD x and a Maltese, after only a short 'burst' of stupidity that he got out of his system through the closed gate, and then no problems. My question to you is - does anybody have some suggestions for more specifically focused training to help desensitise him and help him learn how to interact with dogs more appropriately? I'm thinking some kind of one-on-one work with highly experienced individuals who can help expose him to other dogs over time in an appropriate situtation, but also who can keep good control of things. Does such a person exist, or am I wishful thinking? I realise a lot of people eventually decide that they just don't let their dogs near other dogs. I want to do as much as I possibly can before I get that far, while he's still young enough to be relatively malleable. Its my responsibility to him, and to other dogs, and at least should any off lead dogs approach him, I wouldn't have to worry as much about the outcome. I welcome your suggestions, and thank you in advance :rolleyes:

Absolutely not.

Ah well, the details were all confirmed at the vet this morning. Mild ED in both forelegs. Poor little guy. Got some info on hydro options too which is great. Still interested to hear anybody else's tips if they've had dogs with ED. Maybe soon I'll have some of my own to share, the vet will be posting me some information on proposed life long treatment plans etc Wish I could wrap him in cotton wool and keep him safe forever!

Uh, no hooning should be an interesting one to enforce at his age. Fortunatley I find my RRs are inherently lazy so that should work in his favour. While on the topic of swimming, can anybody recommend a suitable place in SEQ (I'm in S/W suburbs but will travel a bit) for me to take him swimming? Be it a dedicated "therapy" thing for our best friends or somewhere I can wade with him? BTW Tapferhund, nice signature

Hi everybody, My 11 month old RR x apparently has mild ED in one of his legs. This is the first time I've encountered this in my own dog. His diet is sound and he is on JointGuard as well, doesn't overdo it etc. I've covered all the usual discussion items with the vet but I'm just wondering how anybody else out there manages this condition? At this stage I'm just trying to become as widely informed as possible so that I can help him as much as possible. Any suggestions or further reading would be most welcome.

I completely agree with what has already been said, particularly by missmoo. This is a common response from pups so never fear. I had a golden with the same kind of behaviour, and two weeks of perserverence got the message across. I found mine quite accepting of training of all kinds, so don't give up. As suggested previously, just be aware of certain things you might to do exacerbate the problem. Ideally it's about nipping it in the bud, not making it worse. Positive association seemed to work best for me (and a growl back to tell my boy it wasn't acceptable). Mind you, I can't talk - I may have had success with my GR from a previous 'life' of mine, but not so much with one of my two RR X's! Good luck.

Neither my mother's 12 year old dog, nor my two boys lift their leg! Ever! (what a bunch of social misfits )

Pardon my ignorance, but when is tick season? And is permoxin a brand name or an active constituent in the treatment used?

Another one that is highly regarded by many obedience clubs is Val Bonney's "Who's the Boss?". It's a thin book so it doesn't take much to read it, and it's all sensible stuff. http://bonnies.com.au/content/view/18/47/ Val and Bruce Bonney have also created a puppy related DVD entitled "Puppy - Pet or Pest". You could enquire with Bonnies about it via their website. There is also another training DVD they have relating to general obedience training, which can be a good place to start. Good luck!

I've recently moved to Brisbane from Perth, and we never had to really worry about ticks there. I'm now aware ticks are an issue here in QLD. I've not had a chance to speak to my vet yet, but does anybody have any suggestions for routine care required to prevent ticks? And how do I deal with them if I find one? I know there is more than one type of tick so I expect the approach might be different for each. Also, are there places and/or environmental conditions under which they are more prevalent? Any suggestions, or recommended reading, would be great! Thanks in advance.

I personally found Joint Guard to be more effective than Sasha's Blend. And in a shorter period of time. I also find myself feeling more confident about the ingredients in Joint Guard. Cartrophen is working well for my dog as well.

Ok it's been five weeks since I took my pup to the vet, and he's had four Cartrophen injections. He's been pretty good. He spent two weeks locked in the laundry during the day, with energy building! It didn't seem to make much difference, he still limped from time to time (only to have him stop limping within an hour at most). But generally he was doing well. No real exercise or training, but definitely some improvement. His diet was reduced, too. Last Friday we let him out and he is now allowed to spend all day with our other dog. He is much happier for it (as is the other dog!), has much less pent up energy, and most importantly has not limped in the last five days! Now, the vet has suggested we should do another four injections at a rate of one per week, since he seems to have responded best since the last injection. I've still not had x-rays, but she believes the changes of it not being bone related are minimal. Also, she says x-rays at this point in time might not show much. But she's still happy to have them done, and is encouraging it. What are your thoughts, DOL-ers? Would you x-ray now? It will cost me around $400 - $450. Would you wait longer, or would you x-ray now and run the chance of having to x-ray again later? I'll also be reviewing diet and exercise with the vet this week, but at the moment we're planning to do 5-10 minutes just wandering around the pathways near the house to keep him stimulated. Your advice would be most welcome! BTW - he is having boisterious play with the other dog and seems fine. I keep it very short and keep an eye on them when I'm home, and if it flares up he'll be back on a restricted accommodation plan!!

Uhh you need to read the other thread.. she lost Charlotte I noticed after I posted here.... such terrible news

Ohh I hope she is better today. I'm sorry it hasn't gone as smoothly as you'd have liked, but excellent job that you got her back to the vet. Regarding other comments about the c5 - I agree, if it *is* an issue from the c5, it will be interesting to see if the vet says that's the case. Keep us posted, I will keep my fingers crossed for you both.

That's excellent! Keep at it!

pappylove, I'm so pleased you took her to the vet. Everybody's advice here is good solid advice, I agree that she should be allowed to sleep etc. Did the vet say the injection should settle her stomach immediately? Or indicate if it might take some time to take effect? I'm sorry she's been sick again At this stage, I suggest keeping her fluids up as has been suggested before, and follow the vet's advice. If she doesn't eat tonight, whisk her off to the vet again tomorrow. Good luck. BTW - did you get your nap as well?

I'm only inclined to disagree on one point above, and that is that ridgy's are great companion dogs IMHO. But yes, they are hunting dogs and do well when given jobs and work to do. I think the best thing here is that you realise you need a change in your own approach. With my guy, he is a bit sooky cuddly bear, but I try to make sure he is capable of being independant (i.e. not whining when he knows I'm near, not trying to manipulate me etc) but being aloof with him sometimes. Have you tried showing her that you are not interested in her behaviour when she is whining and carrying on? As mentioned before, only allow her to come in or interact with her once she is exhibiting the behaviour you want from her. Also, I suggest always keeping in mind which stage of mental development she is in when you're training her. It will help you keep in mind how dogs at different ages behave and relate to them a bit easier during those stages. Keep up your work with her, your commitment will show soon enough!

I agree, I'd have her at the vet immediately. If your 'gut' reaction is that something's not right, then it probably isn't. The vet can keep her under observation, take her temp, etc as persephone said. Not to scare you but I have seen some really nasty reactions to vaccinations. I am lead to believe they are extremely rare, so don't worry too much, but if she's sick, a vet trip is in order. As you noted, there are so many reasons why she might be feeling out of sorts, so don't worry yet! They're so senstiive as bubbas!! Good luck, let us know how you get along.

Thanks guys! I'll keep at it.

If this is indeed a case of separation anxiety, the only suggestion I can offer is that you seek experienced advice and assistance to help your dog work through it. You sound like a dedicated owner and an observant one at that. Just wondering, do you take your dog to any kind of obedience classes or something similar? Often I find the other people in these places can offer a wealth of information and support if you get an opportunity to talk to them. It can also help if they see the dog and know the dog from regular attendance/visits. From my reading about separation anxiety, it can be a bit complex but people who are experienced in this area should be able to help you. It sounds like you have the patience and drive required to achieve this, so don't give up. :rolleyes: