alpha bet

Does sound like bullants or even the jumping jacks - I have had dogs bitten by bull ants but not around the face - more on legs.... Have also had a horse that developed lots of large lumps over various parts of his body that the vet felt were bullants or jumping jacks he had a bit of a reaction to them and any of the bites near his lymph glands ended up turning into sores while others disappeared. With the dog we hosed the affected area as the cold water helps to reduce the heat.... this seemed to help and did seem to reduce the swelling... Perhaps the dog found an old bone to chew and the bullants were there..... Cold water is a good short term help including giving the dog some ice to chew, even icecream might have helped to reduce swelling in the throat.

Corvus - My comments have nothing to do with your actually postings just an observation in general on forums. I have only been posting here recently.... Generally find that there are lots of problems with forums..... horse forums can be just the same. Just read any of the crap people write that follows some of the youtube entries. Personally, I find I browse the forum..... see a topic I think I might have something to offer...... and make my post..... If someone then comes on and disagrees with my posting I dont go back and post.... I feel I have made my contribution and leave it for others to make theirs. Doesn't mean I am not disappointed someone hasnt understood and at times have felt a bit upset that someone would make cutting or sarcastic remarks about one of my posts - but i try to move on and not take it personal. From some of the reading I have done on this forum there is often the danger of falling into an online arguement.... of which no one can win because there is no option of sitting there with someone and clarify points as you go.... it is too complicated to try this on a back and forward forum where responses take too long and hence ends up going off topic and pointless. Another problem is that often people can missinterprete what is written, perhaps because they havent understood the reasoning or what is written is ambiguous. Sometimes the hardest thing to do is to stop and not respond. Everyone should consider these points when you post online - take care in what you post. Hope you find this posting in support of your frustration....

Crating a pup is not an essential part of training. It is just an option. I haven't ever bothered with crating a pup in the house but in saying that when i put any of the dogs on the back of the ute I put them in a crate and they seem happy to sit and wait. I find it easier as they have an area to lie down and if the weather is hot I can place a cover to protect the dog from the sun. I do however find that a pen outside is very convenient. It is not a training tool just somewhere that becomes the dogs space. Dogs generally are happy to have pen time especially if they can still see what is going on. It can be a great idea to invest in a pen for the long term. If you are renting you can purchase a temporary pen (available thru many of the stock/farm suppliers) that you can take with you when you move. A pen will always come in handy, a decent size is best (2m x 4m minimum I would recommend). for example: 1. Loads of people coming around for bbq and pup gets in the way 2. Sometimes you have visitors who are bad mannered to the dog. 3. Tradesman working at your property going in and out - may leave gates open 4. Dog is now at the teenage stage and you have the washing on the line 5. You are going out and want to ensure dog is contained. 6. You have a bitch in season. The good thing about Crating and Pens is that the dog learns patience. He learns that he must stay where you put him without complaining.

It takes about three months for a dog to get comfortable in a new home. During this time you allow him some leeway however you still block behaviour that you dont want. One very good sign is that he gets on well with your other dogs..... this shows that he has great potential to improve. Dont get over worried if he does develop a few little spats with your other dogs that will just be part of his settling in. Working with a trainer will make all the difference. You will have a sounding board for your frustrations and someone to help guide and encourage you.

I tend to carry any treats in my pocket most of the time.... and like you I use sausages...... One way round this is.... I slice the sausages and then leave them on a paper towel on a plate in the fridge for the day.... this tends to dry the sausage out slightly on the outside of the piece.... thus it is not oily in my pocket but still gives the dog a nice fresh treat that he can swallow quickly. I find the dried liver treats (and similar) take too long for the dog to eat and they also seem to get thirsty.

Sounds like your dog has kinda worked out what your want.... She appears to 'give to pressure'. In other words understands that you want her on a soft lead. You say she is in a tight lead when out in front.... does this mean that she is pulling or does she just have a light hold against your lead .... in other words can you hold the lead comfortably with a thumb and two fingers.... if so then all is fine..... You dont need to have a dog at heel to be walking correctly..... you can shorten the lead when walking thru busy spots and sounds like she will just walk beside you on a soft lead. As a test --- if you alter the speed of the walk does she adjust.... if you break into a run does she adjust.... if you stop sudden does she stop and adjust. If you ever decide to compete at obedience she will adjust to you creating excercises that require her to walk at heel. My dogs have all learnt to walk on a soft lead (usually out in front) the important thing is they give to pressure, hence they are aware of where I am so I dont even need to use any voice commands. this allows me to walk 3,4 or even more without any real problem as they just walk soft and none of them are competing for the heel position. Hope this helps....

Matthew, I have done similar to yourself with many different dogs over the years..... havent really had any issues..... I start with a large area covered in paper and reduce it each night..... After a time (varies for different dogs) you will notice that the paper remains dry for a few nights and then usually by then the pup is able to last the night. Always get up early (perhaps an hour or so before you normally rise) and take him out for a wee etc, then back into the laundry/ensuite and go back to bed yourself. Seems to give the dog a clear picture of going outside to toilet and then back to bed again. Havent had any particular issues with any of the pups with regard to house training even using paper. I just had to be vigilant that as soon as pup whinges and goes to the door would head over and let them out. On a few occassions they have wet on a newspaper... big deal.... I was too slow letting them out. There are now also paper trays from pet shops for toilet mats.... people say they work well havent used them for my pups yet. Sounds like you have a fair understanding of what you are happy with..... You've had him home a few days now.... so how are things going.... is he still crying.

I assume you dog knows how to drop.... therefore it is easy to work the bow...... the dog just needs to see a difference with the way you work the bow One method to try: Start with the dog in a stand position (usually I stand in front of the dog) with a reward in hand bring the dog forward with his nose on the food, perhaps two steps and then angle you hand down slowly back inbetween his front paws. By angling his head down and inbetween his front feet helps to push his bottom back and up in the air - it helps to keep his back legs straight..... Dont worry if he doesnt bend at the elbows straight away but once his head is down ask him to hold for a split second and then bring your hand up and foward to release the dog. then treat. Releasing forward will stop the hindquarter from dropping. Can be a little complicated trying to explain without diagrams. Hope this helps

If you happen to be in the outer north suburbs then I run introduction to agility in our social classes. You are welcome to contact me if that is convenient for you.

At 9 months she is in that teenage phase where she can be baby one monent and trying to be grown up the next.... so remember her confidence is not yet fully established and you dont want to shatter her. You really should avoid bad situations for the time being, or at least to walk wider to the fences where dogs are an issue. Also keep walking and don't dawdle. Ideally if Oscar is having trouble you should avoid walking them together where there are these types of issues. If you have any friends with older and really neutral type dogs who dont react, this would be great to walk with. Your young dog will build confidence with a mature and stable dog.

Agree with poodlefan - you need to work on getting both dogs working to a loose lead. Both dogs must understand to refer to you when walking and become accepting and patient, then they will easily respond and give to any pressure no matter from the nose the neck or the chest. There are many trainers who can offer techniques to help you. Then you will be able to walk 2 or even 3 dogs without playing macrame with the leads, or, being dragged off down the road. Ring up and talk to trainers in your area and really question what they can offer to suit you before you outlay any cash. Good trainers are happy to chat and then give you a good feeling as to who you think can work best for you. Just remember sometimes trainers might be busy and you might need to call back when they have some time to chat. All the obedience in the world is usless if you loose control when the dog is distracted. Best of luck.

Not all kennels are $25 per day.... I charge $18/d and there are others around who are similar. For the cost of $126 per week - sounds like money well spent to provide a safe short term solution. If dog gets out and caught by ranger you are up for perhaps $150 if the dog is injured you could be up for vet bills of $350, worse case senario - Dog lost or dead in car accident. Shop around and save yourself and your parents the worry.

There is an old timer who lives north of melbourne (retired sheep farmer) he has some different people come up now and then to work with some sheep. I have watched him quite a few times and often recommend people to take their fanatic b/c to have some fun. He is a pretty quiet old bloke and just has a small herd of sheep but he likes helping people learn to work their herding crazed dogs. He shows you how to start off in a yard with about 5 sheep with dog on a line and then off line.... once the dog gets consistent (might take a few sessions) then you can work a small mob in the paddock.

Big dogs can easily learn to bow..... looks soooo cute and people who are nervous of big dogs tend to relax when they see the bow. Other tricks to try. Walking backwards - when really established you can walk in heel and then walk backwards and dog stays in heel and backs up. Spin - start slow as big dogs take a bit longer. Once dog is comfortable you can walk the dog at heel and have him spin as you walk along. Say Your Prayers - I had a big GSD who would place his front feet on a table then drop his head between his feet, maintain the position until i say Amen! Real crowd pleaser. Dead Dog

This is a very interesting question posed here..... I am a horserider and it is common for an instructor to ride a students horse to have a feel of what is happening.... There are often situations where a rider/handler is working with an animal and an instructor is giving directions that dont seem to be working... so for the instructor to put themselves in the students position may offer an insight into the technique required also allowing the instructor an opportunity to broaden their teaching skills. Again as a rider when you are learning a new technique it can be amazing to work with an experienced horse who has the mental and physical softness to respond easily with the correct aids. In the social classes when working on relaxed lead walking (including some fun agility grids) it is common for someone to swap dogs and they can learn to how to handle different personalities. We only swap if people are comfortable with this and I always ask if I can handle someone elses dog first. It doesnt matter whether it is for showing, agility, obedience or pet work it can be great for the dogs and the handlers to develop their confidence and skills.

I agree with Cramet.... I get leads made by a a local lady who makes horse gear. A lovely 6 foot lead costs me about $35 but will last and last.... Harness leather is much better quality than anything used for commercial dog leads and the brass clips from horse suppliers are also great quality. I have one that is about 14 years old and still going strong. the good thing with harness leather is that it softens with use.. a light soak in warm pure oil for 10 minutes, wipe clean and let sit.... within a couple of weeks you will find it as smooth as a babys bum on your hands....

There are pros and cons for both..... I'm assuming from your post that perhaps you havent got your pup home yet.... Nothing wrong with asking if you can attend without a dog and watch the vet classes and also go down to the dog club and follow the class around. You will probably get a good feeling about one... and there is nothing stopping you from doing both... Have fun

Perhaps you should make a choice..... who will share the bed with you?..... Mr Fluffy or OH? Who will sit at the table with you? ....... Mr Fluffy or OH? It is up to you to make the decision and then make it happen. A word of warning tho remember it is likely that OH has earned the right to have these privileges, Mr Fluffy hasnt... well not yet anyway....

Fish oil is very good for dogs. In fact for older dogs it is a big bonus.

Now before any of you jump down my throat - this is an old fashioned cure that I have used many times, works well for most cases and certainly won't cause any your dog any problems or discomfort. Any hot spots, including heat rash between the toes, just dab with mentholated spirits. No don't worry it wont hurt them, even if there is a slight break in the skin it would only be a very slight sting. No different than when your skin touches it. Mentholated spirits is a drying agent, what it does is dry out the affected area and reduces the dogs need to itch and rub. Cheap easy and repeat morn and night you will probably find within 48 hours a vast improvement. sometimes the old wives tales are a good thing. After all the concept of using fish oil or codliver oil came from the same source and now it is being packaged and sold at the vets.

Must say I do agree with you Nekhbet, it is the same in the horseworld.... many trainers/riders love trying out all the new fandangled gimicks or latest fancy bits... but the underlying problems are still there.... I often find that the horse/dog will operate within the guidelines but there is a stiffness in their work. True softness comes when the human and animal develop an understanding of the mind. It is even more obvious with riding, as horses are not as forgiving as dogs and as soon as a distraction presents itself often horses jump at the chance for an excuse to resist. Often with scary consequences. I always tell my pupils that "95% of my training is for the 5% of time when things might go wrong". As a teacher tho I do consider that if the handler/rider needs help then these items might be a useful tool in the short term. The objective is however to go back to the basic equipment and not become dependent on the tool. Oopppsss sorry I'm getting on to my soapbox again....

Was just asking if Brad was involved with Neville because they both seemed to be involved with loads of different things involving dogs, including all the security work. Yep it was Security Kennels and Von Kaiserhoff Kennels, although he wasnt registering thru VCA (at least not for a very very long time). He is back in outer north suburbs - broadford i think - has been for a few years now, I believe he is still breeding but dont know what. He started a boarding kennels there and also a local obedience club for a short time. Interesting how often his name comes up in so many different places but you never quite know where he actually is or what he is actually doing....

Brad, you seem to have a very wide range of experience. Have you ever worked with Neville Williams?

petertb I run a boarding kennel and do find both the GSD and the Labrador are two of the more time consuming breeds to look after in the kennels. Nothing against either breed and I have owned GSD's for 30 years and love them for their intelligence. Both breeds shed..... a lot..... especially the labs. Every time I have a labrador in the kennel i find these huge hair bunnies blowing around the kennels every morning. Both breeds are also very active and require more than the average excercise every day. We have big paddocks for the dogs to run for most of the day and after a few days of charging around they tend to settle in to the routine and become easier to look after. I have many families who tell me they have trouble keeping up with these dogs, physically and mentally. Either are great dogs provided you are prepared to put in the work and put up with any problems along the way. Best of luck in your choice.....

Corvus, shame you live so far away, would love to take up the challenge and see if you would be happy in my class. Don't give up, there is always hope the next trainer you meet might be the one....