alpha bet

Our pups are born and raised till 8 weeks or so with the tv, cd player, kitchen noises, other dogs and teenagers. One of the advantages or living in an open plan house. Hasn't seemed to cause any harm physically or mentally. (am prepared to take the risk of infections by getting them out and about as well). Pups always seem to be very outgoing and new homes are always telling me how easy the pups adapt to new things. So good to hear that more and more breeders are raising pups at home. Question to Corvus - do you know how many litters/pups were involved in the study?

Your instructor should take charge.... thats their job..... Assuming as you are at the vet puppy class - then your pup must be around 10 weeks. This is definately an age you need to take care with you pup. If you don't have faith in the instructor you are better to find another class. The social aspect is very important. It doesnt have to mean social classes with pups, perhaps you know some people with calm steady adult dogs. Perhaps if you go to the park and see people with lovely calm dogs who play well, ask if its possible to interact your pup with their dogs.

I have a boarding kennel so I get used to knowing which dogs I have to watch as far as barking as well as many other issues. One smaller breed that never seems to be a problem - the little corgi - had quite a few stay with me over the years and they always seem to be quiet dogs who relax into the system and get on very well with other dogs. Seems they have a bad name because of being at the Queens castle, but i love having them stay.

Work on the heeling - as with your drop - perhaps you are trying too hard or expecting too much - Develop a good loose lead walk as a priority make sure your pup understands to give to pressure. It is quite normal for the pup to forget when there are distractions. Be persistant and quiet and you can succeed. Sounds like you are using a good method and just need more time to develop. Your pup is only 5 months which is very young there is plenty of time. Once a dog has built confidence in the walking you will notice that distractions mean less and pup will start watching you more and more. If you do decide to do obedience competition later on you can always tidy up any excercises but as you said the priority is to have a well mannered dog. Good luck. p.s. I like to start pups off with a drop from a sit because it tends to be easier for most breeds - Oncer they are used to the excercise and know the command they will drop from a stand. However, as an extra fun thing, I use a version of the fold back drop to teach pups to bow - the difference is I stand in front of the dog with the dog in a stand and lure the head down to between their front legs - then quickly release the dog forward - this is the first step to achieving a Bow - great fun and good trick to show off to your friends.

Sounds like you don't really have all the facts.. You think he said she was chained.... but perhaps was she in a shed.... your not sure.... The pups are gone..... and he is sad..... but then you don't have more details than that.... I think you have to make up your own mind about the situation.... it is not something people online should judge as we don't have the facts..... just a smattering of details from one side......

You may be trying too hard. Break it down for the dog so that you can make it easy steps. Remember the drop is easy to teach provided the dog is relaxed. Technique to try. First reward the dog in a sit position, then get her to focus on your hand and slowly lower your hand with the treat. When you are halfway down stop and give her a chance to adjust her body slightly if she is hesitant then even reward her just lowering her head. If she seems relaxed and focused on your hand then lower to the floor and she may well break at the elbow and lower into the drop and then reward that. If she brings her bottom up just stop and ask her to sit again - keep your energy very low and calm. Repeat the above every time until dog seems really comfortable before you speed things up. Remember it is more important to build her confidence in the excercise than trying to move on too soon.

One girl bought a pup from me 25 years ago when she was still in Teachers College, we kept in touch initially but then life moved on - 12 years ago she moved near me and started bringing her new rescue dog to classes - she ended up by helping me out about 6 years ago and tutoring my kids thru Primary School, She now has another one of my dogs. In the last two litters I've had friends wanting to buy pups - this is even better as I already know how they are with the dogs and they know what the pups are going to be like. Plus a big bonus I get to watch them growing up because i tend to see them every couple of weeks.

You don't need to wait for the new pup. Start trying with the older dog so you can teach yourself. Often harder to teach the older dog but you will develop better techniques.

Horses are great - they teach you to become really sensitive. The hardest thing to train - try working with emus...... now thats really hard.... tiny little brain and almost no memory..... good thing is that if you make any mistakes they dont remember.

I run a small kennel and we have anything from 6 to 36 dogs here at any time all the dog poo is composted and used on the property and has been over the last 15 years. I expected to have to keep starting new garden beds over the years but instead have found that the four beds that are about 1m wide and 3 m long have been able to just be rotated. Each bed starts with a light layer of either hay straw or shavings then we pick up all the poo in a scooper and lay it on top of the bed in the open and let the sun dry in out, the next days poo is placed next to the previous etc.... by the time we get to the end of the bed the poo at the start of the bed has dried and i sprinkle a bit of either hay straw or shavings again. In hot weather the poo is dried easy in two days and then no smell. The hay keeps everything airey which helps to dry again keeping smell down. I dont put grass clippings on as it tends to compact and then everything gets to hot, moist and smelly also the worms get overheated. If you have the composting on the surface of the garden and not in a tub then don't have to worry about killing the worms - the worms will move out of the compost area if there is stuff they don;t like and will move back once it is more to their liking - Ive never added worms but it is amazing how many worms appear. If you want to quicken the process just throw on a dusting of dolomite lime. Ive grown lots of different things with the broken down compost - including tomatoes, native plants etc, but I probably wouldnt grow root vegies....

Friends of mine had a pack of foxhounds (often about 30) back in the day when fox hunting was still allowed. It was an amazing experience to walk in amongst them - big bold dogs but it was amazing how well all the dogs got along. The ones they had were of a heavier build than the photo you show but most of them were from old english lines. I had a few occassions to ride out with the pups when they took them for training runs. We didnt hunt for fox just a rider would travel out dragging a scent lure and then we would ride out about 15 minutes after. They called them pups when they were about 10-14 months and it was so much fun watching the pups mill around but once the couple of experienced dogs took the scent then the pups were ready for action. I don't think there are any packs of foxhounds around any more - if you get the chance to get one I'm sure you will be delighted with them.

Many many many dogs are left home alone while people go to work, dinner, bed whatever. Yes even people on DOL leave their dogs home alone. Some might even put their dog in a pen and leave them there for 8-10 hours - but they are still without human company or supervision thus quite capabable of developing bad habits such as barking constantly or chewing themselves. Some people make the effort to set things up for the dog - others don't. The thing is you cant be expected to raise your dog to please other people - if you do then just go get a hammer and hit yourself on the head a few times. Raise your dog the way you feel best.

Kavik, Really you might find it easier just to write a short little introduction yourself. You know the people you are dealing with and can highlight just the basic principles and objectives. Many of the articles end up getting to involved and complicated for someone starting out. Also you don't have to worry about any copyrite issues

Have often seen this is old dogs staying in the kennels - just standing and looking at the wall perhaps - I have always felt it was a form of dementia as it is not dissimilar to what you sometimes see with old people. A girlfriends old pom/chi cross has been showing this for about 2 years and she is about 15 or 16. They certainly don't seem to be stressed by it - although they will appear a little startled when they first step out of it. I have a little garden area where the oldies can go out for some activity - they seem to be happy out there and will just follow the fence along to the doorway if they get a little confused. I wouldnt worry about it too much, except be careful if she is anywhere new that she is not out in the open to much.

The Aust Vet Association has sent out a letter to recommend the vaccination program of 1st injection at 8 weeks 2nd injection at 16 weeks 3rd injection at 14 months Then every three years This is for the C3 injection - covers parvo, distemper They still recommend that the Kennel Cough vaccinations are held annually if required. The research is indicating that the vaccinations are lasting much longer than first thought and that in fact over vaccinating might cause problems down the line. This is the in the same line as with humans having tetnus injections, initially it was recommended every three years and then it was changed to 5 or 10 years and now the doctor tells me as I have had a few in my life I don't need to have any more. However, Many vets are unwilling to offer this to people due to the worry that people will not bring their dog in for an annual checkup if they dont need a vaccination. Hope this clears things up for you.

Mine come to work - however I kinda cheat because I work next door to home - so suppose I could fall into category of working from home....lol. Although I do get to choose whether to take them with me when I also work away. Kylie works with me and she brings her dog to work - she loves it.

I know the problem Cosmolo, We got sick of going on holidays and leaving the four legged family at home. So we actually decided to save money on holidays and buy ourselves a place where the dogs can go with us. We thought we might make this house available to rent for others to use for holidays. Its not really ready yet to rent out as we are planning on some renovations to make it a little nicer as it is currently pretty ordinary 60's look right down to the shagpile burnt orange carpet. Also plan on putting in a secure dog pen for when we go out. It is in Bonnie Doon - lots of dog friendly areas - near Mansfield and the snow fields. Although not ready for this year then perhaps it would suit you for the future.

The drop can be a difficult one for older dogs that I deal with - If they have any particular issues then a touch on the wither can be a real problem to some dogs. Puppies are pretty easy - they tend to just follow the food down also if you do want to use a touch on the wither to guide a happy pup to the down position this is usually ok, however a nervy pup is best to just lure and if you touch they will turn there head and worry. I prefer to use the food to let the dog follow my hand down into the drop - It is always difficult if the dog is not relaxed - the shoulders tend to tighten and the front legs wont fold and drop. If this is the case I reward a head down position. Amazing how then after a fairly short period of time even the most restrictive dog will start to accept the head down and then suddenly break at the elbow of one front leg - reward that and pretty soon you will get the drop just from the lure alone. It is definately better to get the drop from just the lure than by touch - but like with everything you have to consider each dog to his own.

Don't discount an Aussie - Although they have a long coat it is extremely easy to look after and is kinda self cleaning. Does have a very low smell compared to many other breeds and is quite a soft silky coat to the touch. I have friends with Asthma and they have found the aussies easy to cope with when they stay at my place. They also love having lots of cuddles. (oh! the dogs like the cuddles not my friends...... but then perhaps they would like a cuddle now and then)

Firstly check to make sure that they will have registration with the state body so that you can show - also ensure that they will have Main Registration and not Limit Registration. Dont even consider these pups until you have checked and looked at some other litters - Perhaps review this litter when they are 8 weeks old or so then check their teeth again. And try to take someone with you who has some experience. Perhaps even a vet check would be a good idea as the vet can give you a professional opinion of the bites. Personally I would be very cautious with the litter as incorrect bites can be such a problem for the future.

No no no, you miss my point! Since when is the average weekly wage $1200 - $1500???? Governtment Stats - 2010 - Average weekly wage is approx $62,000 Just goes to show some people must earn a hell of a lot of money......

You have really got a diverse range of preferences at this stage..... good luck deciding .... I'll give you my opinion and no doubt you will be inundated with replies.. German Shepherds - I have had and bred GSD's for nearly 30 years - great dogs but they can be a lot (and I mean a lot) of work...... and it doesnt matter what color you go for. It can be difficult to socialise with others more because others tend to be a bit worried about GSD's because they can be such big powerful dogs. Staffys - Heaps of staffy people here to tell you how they love their staffs and they will hate me being critical - however as a Professional Trainer and in our boarding kennels I find them a dog who stresses when not actually by your side. They are also a dog who can tend to run into you and its like someone has thrown a house brick at you. They are good for older kids but very pushy around smaller kids and I have found you have to be very careful with a staff around other dogs as they can have a short temper and can strike out at strange dog if they dont like them. Therefore they need lots of supervision before they are good with new dogs. Aussies - 6 years ago i got my first Australian Shepherd and now have three plus just had my third litter - wow - so much fun to work with and so easy to raise, play and train - one of their biggest asset is that they seem to have a real softness towards little kids and we have just started working with some Aussie to train for Service Dogs for people in wheelchairs - they have great natural Agility and health and their coat is easy maintenance and they seem to self clean after running around the paddocks or going for a swim. Their coat doesnt seem to have a strong scent even when wet - unlike the GSD who used to really pong out the car. - The main thing with an Aussie is to get them out and give them some good excercise then they are happy to relax around the house. Every active family should experience an Aussie in their life at some stage - but then I've been totally won over by this great breed.

Love getting contact with pups and their families..... As a breeder I am also careful that I dont want to intrude or nag for photos or updates. I make sure I send a xmas card each year with a note about how things are happening here and how i would love to see a new photo. Also this is the opportunity for the owners to let me know if there is anyt change of address etc. I actually mail the card out in November so they get it well before the xmas rush and it is common to get a card and photo back.

Perth Girl - Sorry but I never really thought about putting the price on the website - I suppose the thing is I would have to remember to go on and change the prices if need be. Also until the stud dog is selected, I may not know the price of the stud fee - and the stud fee is an indication of the puppy price. One of the things I was always told by experienced breeders when i first started out - price of a pup should be at minimum whatever the average weekly wage is at the time - This is enough to really mean the people have had to think about spending that money and perhaps they will value this decision. It may also indicate that they can afford the costs involved especially in the first year with their dog. But it is not too much that makes it seem like you are out to get a profit. Using that as a guide then you could consider a fair price for a pure bred dog as somewhere between $1200-$1500 at present. I always thought this sounded reasonable.

You should check with the association about whether they advise the pup to be crate trained. Have you considered whether they will have any information sheets to you on techniques.