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Roger Lavelle in Romsey Victoria has been at the forefront of the Hip Scheme going back to the 70's where he (and others) were the mainstay behind the GSD scheme when it was based thru (I think, although perhaps straining the memory here) Melbourne University. My last lot was done by Robert Rawlinson in Mt Barker SA - only because thats where the vet usually sends them.... All seemed above board.

Remember that each time a person emails you with an enquiry - it is their first contact with you. They are unaware that you might have had a dozen emails just the same in the last couple of days.... so be patient and remember each one could potentially be a great home for one of your dogs. As suggested it is a good idea to have a stock email for initial response - cut paste and return. This email should also clarify how you handle your selection process. For example: Basic info on the activity level etc of your breed and also what information you would like about them to help you choose appropriate homes. After this any further emails from the same person are treated in the way that they come..... if they send one or two lines about themselves.... that is all they get back..... just enough to be polite but then ask that they respond to the information required in the first email.... Personally, I find this a good way to sort out the serious from the tyre kickers..... only the ones who can follow the simple directions get placed in the Puppy address book where I can sort thru and work out which ones are worth talking to further and then I invite them to ring for a chat. Hope these ideas help.....

Very interesting discussion - also very confusing.... Just goes to show - I believe that Dogs Victoria - is not doing enough to deal with some of the issues raised. For a start if the Pedigree showed results of any certified health results - Hip/Elbow, DNA tests. then at least we have an official document showing the history of some of these health issues. Thus showing the "powers that be" that the breeders are making serious attempts to reduce known health risks. Surely this bit of paper would then hold weight when it comes to mediation - Instead of having to come to court armed with wads of papers showing the health testing for various dogs, that one piece of paper has all the information officially recognised..... plus it should be that breeders should be educating their puppy buyers about the health testing and the lengths they have gone...... Breeders should NOT be offering guarantees to any puppy purchaser (neither main nor limited) just that they have done the best possible (at the time) to greatly REDUCE THE RISK of hereditary problems.

Regulations on pet mince varies greatly from human. They can call it roo as long as there is some roo, but it may also have horse meat or other.... sometimes if you buy roo meet thru the pet market it can seem very stringy and strong smelling, this is likely to have a high percentage of horse.... or old cow... or mutton.... I buy roo from a retired butcher who hunts himself.... it has minimal smell and fine grain, low fat. I just add other fat to the dogs who need it via fatty lamb flaps etc.

One who has been doing xrays for hip/elbows etc for years is Craigieburn Vet - Michael Bell - he has been working with the greyhound breeders for years and really knows his stuff. Cost is about $360 and pretty sure that included the scores being done - Michael can check the xray and give a description - matched the official readings down pat. Had the official results emailed in a couple of days and paperwork back probably within a week. You should advise them to get official reading done... doesnt really cost extra and good for your breeding to know the official results. I used to travel down to Werribee but in future will use Craigieburn.

As pups cannot be registered with the ANKC without the microchip - then often breeders wait until the microchip at 6-8 weeks, then send the papers off.... perhaps a month would be about the most the ANKC would take to get papers back to breeders, allow another month for the breeder to get organised to mail to you...if being slow... Certainly the papers should be available within at least a two month period. Also know whether you paid for a full or limited registered pup...... Do you know if the breeder is a member of the State Breed Club.... it may be worth contacting the secretary of this club so that they can forward an email to the member - this might embarrass the breeder to get organised.... otherwise send a letter to your state ANKC Do not leave any long... 12 months is an embarrasment - if you have attempted to contact them and no contact or papers sent..... the breeder should be ashamed of themselves.

The German Shepherd have their Breed Survey Scheme, which has the detention details, hip/elbow etc as well as breed and temperament assessment by a panel.... then its all written up and available for public access.... they started this scheme back in the 70's and are obviously the leaders when it comes to being open and above board about what happens.... at least thru the specialist system where they also have judges critiques from first to last on each class and again printed up for public access.... Must admit I was so used to the breeders of GSD being so open and helpful.... find it totally different now..... being disullusioned by the all breed shows has put me off the show world.

We had a lovely xmas eve, very civilised actually, she started about 9.30pm - just after I had organised the xmas dinner for the next day - finished at 1.30am xmas morning..... time for me to go to bed and wake up in time for Santa. What a clever girl, especially for first time mum.

Sounds fairly normal... big dogs often have growth spurts.

Good that the MDBA offers this on their registry, but seems to be a bit useless to have two different registration systems.... After all the costs of raising and registering puppies, can't see the benefit of paying a further joining fee, annual fee, registering another prefix, secondary registration of the litter etc..... as well as having to handle the double load of paperwork..... We already have an existing system... perhaps somewhat still living in the stone ages..... but surely it would be better to attempt to implement change within the existing..... Parkeye - it would be great to have DNA shown... Perhaps it would encourage breeders to conduct more testing and get the info out there, Plus it would give the ANKC something to really show the public they are being forward thinking in the health of pedigree dogs. Yes information is power..... although some may not like that.....

How can we fight the arguments of the welfare lobby and the media who like to sensationalise - just look at the potential damage of shows such as Pedigree Dogs Exposed.... CONSIDER THIS : With some breeds we have to send in certified certificates of health scores to our State body but they are just filed away and ignored. Why not have the hip/elbow scores proudly placed on the pedigree as well as relevant DNA results. This would mean the information is now official and easily accessible. If a breeders want to use a stud dog all I need see is the Pedigree, same for the owner of the stud dog to ensure the bitch meets a health criteria. Often I have to ask for further documentation to check this and often to be told that "oh he is clear by parentage" - Really! ....not good enough.....sorry then I need to see the parents paperwork.....! Personally I believe it is crucial for the long term well being of our Pedigree Dogs for Official Registration Certificate to identify certified health details - even more so than Show or Competition titles as these health checks directly affect the breeding aspect for members and public. I make my own pedigrees to accompany the ANKC one, showing hip/elbow scores and DNA results.... starting to look pretty impressive with these details back 3-4 generations now and I am very proud to explain what they all mean to new puppy homes. I have written to Dogs Vic and plan to continue my own campaign of pushing this forward.... Perhaps you might think about joining in.....

I don't show.... I find it boring..... does that make me better or worse than other breeders? ..... I don't compete.... I haven't the time.... does that make my dogs any better or worse than the successful show/performance kennels? I have been breeding and training dogs since 1982.... does this experience make me a better breeder than someone who has just had 2 or 3 litters? I run a training school for families.... does this give me greater knowledge to what type of temperament suits our modern human world? When it comes down to it I don't give a hoot how other breeders judge me after all I have my own breeding plan.... I call this plan the three T's...... I breed for Type, Temperament and Testing ...... after all I consider it is my role to produce a pup that is as a 'quality product'. The public who seek a pedigree dog as a pet/companion are just as entitled as any show home to receive a healthy, good looking dog with a balanced temperament, a dog who will live a long time and bring joy to their human family..... and hopefully not end up costing families thousands of dollars for operations to fix hereditary health conditions - that is what I call a quality product. Who cares where you advertise.... get the name of pedigree dogs out there.... that way the public have the chance to learn more about their options for getting a pup.... Not everyone wants to get a rescue.... nor do they want to go to pet shops ... conduct a google search and many breeders websites may be well down the listings and not get viewed.... The public often need help - back in the 70-80's the German Shep Club used to take a large ad in Saturday Age... and only litters from breed surveyed stock were issued....and mostly these breeders sold all their pups thru the club. Unfortunately many breed clubs don't have large committees, perhaps don't have well maintained websites or even a criteria for puppy listings.... so the public cannot rely on these groups. One of the big advantages of having Dogzonline is that this website is a great research tool, here provides a great deal of information to the average family about the different breeds available. It also supplies an easy guide to contact information for the breeders via websites or emails.....and at a very affordable price.... We are lucky to have this website after all much of what is available here is not available thru our Kennel Control Associations.....

You have two dogs of similar ages.... both are now teenagers and starting to think they are the superior dog.... It is not wise to have two dogs of similar age. Ideally there should be at least two years between dogs.... It is not uncommon for people to get a second dog to keep the first one company because they think he is lonely or perhaps the dog is getting destructive. Hence you get a playmate to make things easier. What happens is you can end up with double trouble. You should take one back to the Rescue, they should not have rehomed a young dog with you when you already have a pup (but perhaps you did not tell them). This may not solve your problem.... you need to learn more about how to handle the dog you keep. You have to provide the right environment and ensure the right exercise and supervision.... otherwise you will find that perhaps your dog can start to become dog aggressive whenever you walk the dog on lead.

Your pups needs more space and much more time outdoors. Even tho he is a whippet he is still a dog.... needs to have the chance to be dog. You live in Queensland and its December... certainly not cold that is a problem for pup outdoors. Nothing stopping you fencing off a section of the backyard to create a large pen (go to a local rural fencing store and purchase prefab panels), big enough so pup can charge around and have fun.... Ensure there is plenty of shade, ideally access to grass and perhaps a shallow wading pool and a sandpit...... he will enjoy being outdoors and having a chance to frolic, dig and roll .... basically learning to be a dog! If he has plenty of toys and activities he won't even worry about playing with his own poo. Diet is certainly worth looking at.... possibly he doesnt have enough fibre in his diet.... try a raw food option rather than processed dry food (boring).... lots of information on the internet and also some of the raw options are now available packaged commercially. One thing many have done to prevent them eating the poo is to mash some pineapple into his food... this usually stops them eating their poo immediately. good luck

The dog has to learn that the human is in charge of the food. There are two techniques I use for dogs like this. FIRST : You want to really activate her nose..... after all that is the conduit to her brain. You are doing the right thing offering the food in a closed fist.... just being careful not to pull your hand back at all even if she does try to grab with her teeth. Unfortunately you will get a some teeth scrapings until she learns. Keep fist closed until she starts to sniff and push with her nose or tongue to try find the food, then just open your fist slightly so she has to use her tongue to slide the food out of the opening fist. She will quickly realise that teeth don't open the hand but tongue or nose will. SECOND : You need to improve her co-ordination which helps her understand where her mouth/teeth are .... Stand in front of her and hold a treat at about your head height, Stay really quiet and calm regardless of her behaviour... Wait... Ignore her trying to jump up... quietly push her back if she jumps against you... wait until she sits and watches the treat and then drop the treat for her to catch.... Repeat this over and over.... in no time she will realise she needs to stop and wait before you drop treats.... she also learns how to be precise in catching the food and how she uses her mouth.... Then you start to make a game of asking her to wait, wait and then she concentrates on your hand and you can toss in different directions and she catches. FURTHER HELP. You can also make a bit of a trick with it for her... Offer both fists together, just one has the food, she ends up sniffing both hands trying to work out where the food is. When she focuses on the correct hand, open hand and praise. She can quickly get the idea of the game, then you make her wait..... present both fists and give a command ( perhaps CHOOSE ) she then selects a hand and you say YES and give the food. FOLLOW UP Once you have the above things happening, then you teach her to LEAVE IT.... you can place the food on a stool tell her to LEAVE, use your hand to capture the food if she tries to get it and keep repeating until she stops and waits.... then use a release word to let her have it.... Continue with this exercise and eventually you can place food on her foot and have her LEAVE...... Good luck and have fun

Thanks for posting those videos.... good to get the point of view from some of the originals. This subject is one of my pet peeves Like many here I get very frustrated with how many vets insist on the annual vaccination - and now some talk about having brought in a tri-annual injection as an alternative (mind you also more expensive!). My understanding is that the normal vaccination is sufficient for at least 3 years and the tri-annual is just the drug company using a marketing ploy. Many of the trainers/vets I've spoken with in USA and parts of Europe follow the same recommendations as Jean Dodds and it is annoying how the public is being given incorrect info by the 'vet practice' - unfortunately it would appear that most boarding kennels and many dog clubs still insist on the annual certificate.... frustrating that they can't adapt and update.... personally think they want the easy dollars on the annual vaccination - $76 for sticking a themometer in one end and an injection in the other..... plus selling loads of extras such as worming, flea and flood at inflated prices. Even know a vet who is offering a health package for pups - pay an annual fee (over $500) and you get free desexing, vaccination, worming, flea treatment and puppy school - then 20% of clinic visit or surgery - then an annual fee for adults at over $300 for annual vaccination, flea treatment, worming and 20% discount of clinic or surgery..... I run a boarding kennel and accept (and use on my own dogs) the AVA recommendation. Happy also to accept the titre testing.... however when I asked the practice about titre test I was quoted $240 per dog..... sheese nobody is going to pay that...... I've starting giving my kennel and training clients a vaccination sheet, quoting AVA recommendations and links to Jean Dodds and Dr Bruce Syme web sites for further support.... if they have the info they can make their own choice.... happy to do my bit to save clients a bit of money.

Barking can be annoying for neighbours.... can also be annoying for me..... My dudes usually only get up and excitment barking when I take them for a run thru the paddocks - during this play is the usual time we get the bark... usually the one lagging behind or not involved in the tug of war that is the one barking, so after a couple of minutes I tell the barker off... but at the same time don't want to stop the games.....

No need for auto food dispenser. Dogs can go overnight without food. If you head off on a Saturday morning you can feed the dog - they will be fine till you get home on Sunday evening.... as long as they have plenty of water.... It doesnt matter if a meal is late..... most dogs don't need food twice a day or for that matter even 7 days a week. If away longer than the overnight then they need human contact.

It is not uncommon for Breeders to sell pups to families and ask to keep the dog entire for breeding.... Hence the term - Breeders Tersm. The terms should be clarified at time of sale. Not uncommon to hear of people paying good money for a boy and then having to keep them entire, the breeder then owns the bloodline/registration and the person owns the dog - and usually there is no stud fee unless agreed prior..... Bitches are also at times put out or sold on Breeders Terms - the rules on these vary greatly, have heard of people paying top dollar for the bitch and then the breeder having lifetime breeding of the girl (4-6 litters even) Usually the breeder pays the costs related to the litter but often the owner is responsible for the running around to get health testing etc and in some cases will actually raise the pups for the initial period. Personally, if I put a bitch out of Breeders Terms, it is no charge and I get one litter of minimum of 5 live pups, if less then we can go halves in a second litter. I pay costs and the bitch comes to me to whelp and raise the pups. Then if they want I sign the pup over to them. With the boys I sell the pup, if I think about using for stud that would purely depend if were happy to keep them entire and I would then pay a stud fee which is perhaps at a reduced price but at least enough to cover all the health testing required for our breed. However it is their decision - have only done this once each with two different boys. Currently have 3 girls out in homes on breeders terms, it allows me to have access to onbreed but not have to run too many dogs at home. As far as the collars go it is not uncommon in pups who have single looks to wear colour collars to help identify. Concerning the health testing - there is no real DNA tests for Weimaraner other than long coat gene. I believe there is no need for the hip/elbow xray (but this could be further clarified with the Kennel Body in your state.

Took Amani in for a scan - first time mum and dad - so had our fingers crossed. 7-9 pups by the look of things.... so far so good. Might end up with a really interesting xmas day - family here for lunch and perhaps puppies being born..... the day will be busy....

My take on this is that you have to find another solution other than leaving the dog at your parents - either fix your backyard to ensure she is safe or pay to put the dog in day care where she can have have the opportunity to develop positive experiences of mixing with different dogs. It appears you have tried so many different things but to no avail - you have no way of controlling the environment at your parents and it obviously doesn't suit your dog. Leaving her there is only going to allow these issues to fester.

You could spend an awful lot of money doing courses and it lead to nothing.... better still get hands on experience first... either with a local obedience club (volunteer to help out) or with a local professional trainer (again offer to work/help for nothing) Once you have a good idea of what is involved then consider spending the money..... after all what is the likelihood of Precision Training helping you get a job..... I suspect none..... It is one thing to want to be a dog training it is a totally different thing to actually be one.... after all it is more than training dogs, you have to learn how to handle people....

Like others here I keep an email folder with people who are interested. I can add notes to this file as they make further contact either thru phone or email - thus build up a bit of information about the environment and commitment of the people. Usually have some priority people - one or two people who may have been up and visited a previous litter and have been waiting for awhile and still committed - or else have someone with a pup from a few years ago looking for a second pup - I send updates at times and then once the pups are born I will email my priority people to check them first, then I contact the rest on the list and start a bit of a juggling act. Often half the list has either changed their mind or found another pup - which is cool by me. I really try to keep an open mind and not judge their lifestyle as in working or size of property, but more how committed and planning they seem to be towards getting a new dog.... If they havent met the aussies before they are welcome to come and see the dogs in the flesh - this can help me see how they might react and adapt to the dogs. I let all the dogs out together to run riot a bit just to see if they can deal with the energy.... My suggestion, is perhaps see if you can go and visit the pups - this gives you a chance to meet the breeder and they get to know you.... Once we have most of the pups allocated (usually by 3-4 weeks) I often have new people here each week for visits.

The bitch determines how many puppies - you could use 20 sires and still get the same amount as using one sire. exactly.... just as I had said in the entire comment made.... my questioning is why bother! after all if I get 6-8 pups from one sire I have the chance to get more pups to view from the breed mix hence the chance to see more how the combination worked and choose a bitch for future.... whereas if there are 3 from one sire and 3 from another...... I have actually limited my chances for both these objectives.... not to mention the fact I might have spent twice the money on stud fees.... hence perhaps $3000 on stud fees and limited choices... doesnt really make sense.

Have spoken with Sue Steinberg at a conference - she has conducted a large amount of research into dog parks however is not anti dog parks as such.... just that the owners often don't know what they are doing and also many of the parks are set up incorrectly. Have also visited several parks thru parts of California and there are key points to think about in the design of parks. Parks should not have seating..... this allows owners to stop and sit often chatting/playing on their phones instead of watching and interacting with their dogs. Parks need to be large enough and should have walking tracks inside the perimeter. This encourages owners to walk thus keeping the dogs moving around the area and reduces the ability for dogs to fixate on particular dogs. Parks work best when there is a large dam or lake which keeps the dogs focused on playing in and out of the water and also allows the more active dogs to burn off some of their energy in the water play. Parks should ideally have a double fence entry/exit to enable people to enter the fenced area and then allow the dogs time to sniff thru the fencing before opening the second gate to enter the area, this prevents the dogs bunching and charging dogs at the gateway. Dog Parks are important especially in built up areas - suburban dogs need the opportunity to stretch out and play.... what is needed is well designed parks and education programs to build the skills. There is a dog trainer in Texas who runs education days and he has sometimes 50+ dogs/families spending a couple of hours learning how to get the best out of the parks..... We do similar here (but only about 10-20 dogs) at our own private dog park... works really well and families learn how to deal with the good and bad of interacting dogs either in parks or even walking in the street. So don't write off the benefit of dog parks..... for many it may become the only option....