alpha bet

If you wait till the dog's bottom is on the ground.... he will never get to interact with kids. The reality is that he is going to be excited around kids because kids are excited and he is also still a kid..... until he has matured he will be highly influenced by the energy levels around him. The objective is to give him plenty of opportunity to relax in different environments - sometimes low energy but also places that are high energy. Taking him on lead to things like sporting games - hang around watching the game, make him wait, stay there until he is accepting that life is not all about him. He needs to understand that he must be patient. Practice this behaviour as often as you can, go to any new or different environment and he has to wait - ignore any fuss he wants to make and wait. Any visitors must ignore him until he has calmed down only then can he be greeted - quietly - which means if kids can't be quiet for a greeting then those kids don't have the right energy to meet a pup. As he gains experience he will take less and less time to settle down - once his body slows down his brain is able to take in more information. It is also important that he has the chance to get out and run and frolic with other dogs. His body needs to burn off excess energy, so find friends with good sensible dogs who can help him learn and develop..... Good luck

After years of owning and breeding GSD - I moved away from them as I am somewhat concerned with the health both physically and mentally - many of the pets I see who come to class or stay in the boarding kennels, have issues. Often GSD from the working lines have extremely high prey drive which makes them far to much to handle for the average family. Some GSD have enormous early growth and trouble with growth plates - loose hocks are also a big concern. My advice would be to go to the German Shepherd League Clubs in NSW - watch the dogs at the obedience classes and the confirmation classes. Talk with owners and breeders, see what bloodlines you like, shape and temperament..... If there is a chance to go when they are conducting a Breed Survey you will see many examples of GSD which should help you find what you seek. Be prepared to take your time to find what really suits you - don't get talked into buying a pup from one of those breeders who want to discredit everyone else because only "THEY know how to breed a good dog these days". There are a lot of questionable GSD breeders out there and they can charge a fortune.

Many of the vets now accept the concept of three year vaccination of C3 if pushed by the client. These then provide the certificate which shows the due date as three years down the track and many of the dog clubs and even some of the more informed kennels are starting to accept the vet certificate. So you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one down your way who is prepared to help there..... just ring around and ask each clinic...... Remember tho it is exactly the same injection and not a specific triannual injection that some vets seem prepared to offer at a higher cost. Worth remember that the C4-C5 component for Kennel Cough - only has a 6 month life..... hence having this done annual is of no real benefit.... instead it is worth considering having this done only when you are feeling that your dog is at higher risk. On that point, at our kennels we have a different environment..... 18 years and not one case of kennel cough..... we believe there are specific factors that play a big role as to whether KC is an issue. Enjoy your new area.

Have to also agree with Nekhbet.... expensive waste of time.... people learning how to train a living creature from a TV show, Youtube or Online Course is absolutely no acceptable alternative to a hands on situation. Often people feel they have spent the money and done the program and feel they dont need to go further.... The results is just a money making excercise - if they have 100 sign up they have made themselves over $10,000 for four week sessions.... they can re-run these sessions again and again racking in the dough...... Courses for owners and also for people wishing to become dog trainers now being offered in the States are totally out of hand.... some are $1,000's - very common to see "one week full time course for just $2,500 - only 12 places available".....sheese! Are we now becoming a world were our phones rule our day and any learning without the aid of an Ipad must be second rate.......? The whole idea of having a dog is to actually remember how to connect with nature... get out in the sun/rain/wind... get dirty and have some fun.....

Oh the eutopia of bringing out animal ownership laws..... every rescue association would love to see Hence the government would be the one who decide who is acceptable to have a pet and who isn't..... excuse my sarcasm...... but do we really need MORE rules..... Australia already has many rules with regard to animal welfare and the authorities don't police these now, how on earth are they going to police more rules? If we are not careful pet ownership will be for the elite only.... and eventually no one. A SAD DAY.... South East Asia and other regions do not yet have a high ownership, in fact there are many countries who just co-exist with animals. Consider Samoa who have dogs roaming at will, they don't create a problem to the locals but only the tourists who try to interfer with them......Let these countries deal with their own situation in the way they feel best for their situation

Nobody should recommend both vaccines at once.... are you sure you understood what the trainer meant. the correct protocol is actually 8 week, 12 week and 16 week and then 14 months - the pups Maternal Derived Antibodies actually can kill off the vaccine, trouble is we don't know when the MDA's wear off enough to actually allow the vaccine to be effective, hence the need for the three puppy vaccines - two of the vaccines will be useless but we don't know which. You don't need to just rely on a forum for this information it is freely available : Here are some references they should answer all your questions on vaccine.... suggest you also give this information to your trainer. www.apvma.gov.au/use_safely/vaccination.php from Dr Jean Dodds DVM go to www.itsfortheanimals.com/HEMOPET.HTM also there is more information from two vet sites : www.vetsallnatural.com.au and also www.animaloptions.com.au

Dept Primary Industries conducted an Open Forum regarding the Registrations in April 2012 - focused on breeding rules - had huge number of people in attendance including many of the commercial breeders etc. They wanted feedback In reality of course it was more a case of a group of government pencil pushers sitting around a table coming up with "good ideas" about what would make the legislation. Then they present to a Forum for the sake of appearances and then they just drop in the rules and regs they think are best. Of course they never think of how these rules are to be policed.... most councils don't have the time to even check for the basic registration of family dogs let alone to cover the new stuff. Just consider that the councils already have the right to go and check out Commercial Breeders (puppy farms) with giving fair notice - but they don't......

www.ourpetworld.net This is a singapore based company that uses paypal - have found them great to purchase thru. I use Advantage - my local vet charged $16 for one tube but online I purchased a dozen tubes for $71 delivered - so share with friends as we found we only need to use thru the summer months

http://www.depi.vic.gov.au/pets/domestic-animal-businesses

I went to council 18 months ago to fill out the paperwork - the Council Officers had to look it up on the Internet.....and then download the paperwork.... I paid my fee but didn't receive an inspection till about 6 months later..... ! Had to fill out further forms....... At this point I was the only Animal Business recorded ! An animal business registration number is required for any Dog Training Establishment, Dog Boarding Kennels, Dog Breeding Therefore this would also be relevant to: Pet Sitters, Pet Nannies, Puppy Farms, Doggy Day Care, Vets who have animals staying overnight, Vets who run puppy schools, Pet Shops with animals on the premises, ANKC or Working Dog Club Members with more than 9 entire animals, all residential homes with more than 3 entire animals who do not belong to Assoc. Grooming Shops, Home Grooming Services..... even pet walkers Might even be worth compiling a list of businesses in your area so that if the Council Officers knock on your door you can ask the question to make sure that they are being fair and reasonable to all business in your region. Warning - they will want to know your insurance details etc etc etc.... Side note : Still haven't actually received an official number I just have my original form and receipt ... However have not yet received any request for a renewal...!

Dog owners pay rates just like everyone else - we also pay extra fees for our dogs - yet we get really nothing back from council for this. Councils subsides many community/family needs If you have children they subsidise; infant welfare clinics, kindergartens, after school programs If you are elderly they subsidise; community buses and activities If you are into sport they subsides; ovals, netball courts, basketball stadiums etc. If you are more into studious pursuits they subsidise; libraries, art festivals but if your a dog owner : you are treated as second class - even now the councils no longer provide an annual tag for your dog - if you loose it you have to pay for another - now they state you have to have it on your dog when in public even if the dog is onleash.... Consider the following # that the average family would use the child facilities for perhaps 5-6 years and then no longer. # that the average family 'might' use the elderly facilities for perhaps 5-10 years and then either into a home care or pass away. # that the average family could expect to use the sporting facilities for perhaps 10 years before the kids grow out of junior sport and perhaps 5 years of seniors # that the average family may use the library however with the internet this is greatly reduce any need and festivals might occur once or twice a year. However, in our Shire it is likely that at least 30-50% of households would own a dog - people are also likely to own their own dog from perhaps 21yo until they are shunted off to the nursing home..... perhaps 50-60 years of dog ownership and the councils do little if anything to support.... plus we are paying extra 'RATES' for this. My registration this year (Mitchell Shire) was $164 for my dogs (VCA member) and our council doesn't even provide any off leash area - they have started a pet expo one day a year which I discovered they were given a grant from state government for so this is not even paid out of rates.... The Rangers are quick to give people a hard time even if they are doing the right thing - instead could be door knocking and catching the people who don't register their dogs, who don't have adequate fencing to contain their dogs and policing the new policy to catch the bybers and puppy mills - of which there are many.... just walk into some of the shops and see the posters stuck up selling pups. Groups like VCA, RSPCA, and even the welfare groups should be encouraging greater acceptance for Pet Owners instead of creating more and more laws to hinder - Its time for Government (in all levels) to give back....

We have boarding kennels in Wandong (on the Hume) - we also breed Aussie Shepherds.

Best advice I would give - DONT GET ADVICE ONLINE FOR THIS TYPE OF BEHAVIOUR. Go and see someone who specialises in this.... not just your local obedience club.... This needs to be addressed immediately and there are many factors that need to be taken into account. Most advice here might be well meaning but most do not have the experience nor the facts to really assess the problems and solutions.

none !

If there is two dogs, there is usually one who has the lead... this is the dog to focus on

Everyone on DOL should go onto Free Press Leader facebood and add their opinions - this might make the free press stop and think

This is a very valid question and often what scares many people about walking their dogs in public. There are different situations of course how to react will often depend on different factors. * if you are alone or have a dog with you * if you have a child with you * if there is one or two dogs coming at you * how naturally confident you are * even what you are wearing. Firstly you need to understand that very, very few dogs will actually take on a human, more often they just want the human to move on - away from their perceived territory - often the way the human reactions will increase the energy and make more of an issue. Whereas if the human stops, ignores and then waits till the dog has lowered his energy then you can quietly move on. Just ignoring any lower level of barking, move slowly and confidently away. The real problem is when there is another dog. Sometimes loose dogs will charge out in the street at another dog walking past his area - On these occassions the dog is not really aware of the human as all his focus is on your dog. If your dog (and you) add more negative energy to the situation things can turn ugly.... Often the human will grab their dogs (usually little white fluffies) and pick them up, thus they frighten their own dog which starts a barking frenzy which will increases the reaction from a charging dog. In class we teach some techniques to help people develop some ideas... we call it "Own Your Space".... bit difficult to explain online but will try. To understand, we have off leash classes, we have perhaps 8-12 dogs in class - We start with a practice exercise where we place sticks on the ground creating a box about 4m square - human stands in the box and we place food on the ground - this will entice the loose dogs in class to enter the square.... human has to tell all the dogs to back off and get away.... of course the dogs want the food so some will really duck and weave to get in to the food. Human has to stand firm and make the dogs ignore the food and focus on the human. This is great for increasing the humans confidence in being able to control the dog..... We can take this a step further and increase the square and give the human their dog on leash to hold, they must then control their own dog trying to get the food as well as the dogs trying to enter. In real life situations we have hoped the human has build the confidence to OWN THEIR SPACE should they have a dog charge then they stand their ground - stand strong - one foot in front of the other, hold their dog steady behind them and wait - only if the dog moves in closer than about 3-4 m then they use a loud BAHHHH. Consider the idea of taking your nervous energy and holding it then using this energy to throw at the dog in one definate F#@K OFF ....... this is aimed at bringing the charging dogs attention to the human and away from the dog..... often then the dog will stop charging but may continuing the barking... human holds steady and strong and keeps the dog focused on the human..... dog might even try to circle around you to find a way in - you just circle and face the dog.... dog then starts to back off... perhaps still barking but you ignore this.... once he moves far enough away you can continue slowly on.... if he recharges you repeat....... the objective is to keep the offending dogs attention on the human and defuse the energy. Panic causes conflict - Calm and steady wins out..... Hope this helps.

You can check out Dr Bruce Symes Website - he has some articles about vaccinations that clarify just the question you have raised. He has been conducting titre testing for years. www.vetsallnatural.com.au Also some other vets who offer good info is www.animaloptions.com.au and Dr Pearson from Paws to Heal.....

Alysoha, I do share some of your frustrations...... Most vets do not breed yet often push their point of view..... Most vets are not feed specialist but happy to sell pre-packed food off their shelf...... Most vets don't have a broad range of experience with training yet conduct puppy classes.... For me, most vets are the same as a GP but we have to remember Vets are a GP for multi species - not an easy task so it is important that WE DON'T put them up on a pedestal and expect them to know everything. The big problem is the public do take everything their vet says as the be all and end all...... Hence I gain information from different sources and fill my puppy packs with information and references/links to these specialists - I encourage my puppy buyers to question advice from ALL professionals, including me.......

Whether we like it or not - the law MUST have a way of defining what a dog actually is and what the value might be.... hence they determine that a dog is property.... and at the point of sale there is a price... this is the value of the property..... The extent of the liability is that value... otherwise no one would want to ever breed a litter because if vet fees could be claimed back on the breeder or a value for pain and suffering we could never afford insurance to cover us. The interesting thing is that it is very rare to hear of anyone trying to claim back from pet shops or backyard breeders... instead they seem more prepared to put pressure on the registered breeder. Breeders need to take a stand and not just refund because someone is unhappy. If they have a claim due to HEREDITARY issues or health defect from the breeders home then return the pup to get a refund. Otherwise they should accept they want to keep the pup/dog and bear the cost. In the last 6.5 years I have had 52 pups, know where they all live and EVERY DOG gets a xmas card every year. Last Sunday we held our Annual Picnic and 28 of these dogs and families came up for the afternoon. This is my way to keep a track of everyone but also to support the families. I am sure other breeders do plenty of stuff to support their families and we get nothing for this but still have to deal with the crap from councils, dept of primary industry and at times the welfare groups wanting to critizise. end of rant....

For those who grew up in the 60's and 70's will remember that most people didn't bother desexing their pets. Nor did many use boarding kennels or even vaccination - diets were basically left overs, meat offcuts and bones from the butcher - obedience clubs were few and far between and often dogs roamed the streets and learnt their social skills out in the real world. Kids also were taught not to touch a strange dog, not to touch a sleeping dog and never touch a dog who is eating..... all my friends had dogs, sometimes 2 or 3, surprisingly I don't remember any of my friends being bitten and many of us had dogs that lived till 18 years or even more.... strong, healthy and very little need for vets..... The campaign for desexing didn't really get off the ground until the 80's and 90's and then came the vaccination program. By the year 2000 we have a pet industry pushing their own research to promote an all dry food diet - and now with the introduction of pet medical insurance then the vets can now start really raking in the cash.... Now our animals live shorter lives, seem to be inundated with diseases and genetic faults that costs thousands of dollars to fix. Even the concept of desexing pups at 6-8 weeks is becoming a priority....... I visited dog people in a few Euro countries 18 months ago and from chatting with them discovered (particularly Eastern Europe) they are looking after their animals much the same as we did in the 60's- their dogs are healthy and longer living.... and the limited research so far is supporting the concept of problems with early desexing and vaccination as well as processed food. So to answer this question : I think the science is still out on coming up with the answer hence nowdays I tend to advise that people consider desexing after 12 months and with bigger breeds even perhaps 18 months - As a breeder my own dogs aren't desexed until finished breeding - and I would never desex babies..... instead I maintain contact with the families for an extended period and we have an annual picnic get-together. With 52 aussie pups in the last 7 years, I know where they are and none have had accidental litters - only planned/registered pups.

BC Crazy - Flooding is a term often misunderstood.... and at times misused, however can be very effective if worked in stages. We get loads of reactive border collies as we live in a semi rural area and BC's are often the dog of choice for many such families. If placed in an environment with lots of other dogs and just ignored they start to become more interested and curious - hence they start to adjust their behaviour and become more accepting of new situations.

We all accept that the dog's personality is set, it is the behaviours that we can alter. That being said, of course the personality may affect the likely behaviours we will see. It is just up to us to modify these behaviours we don't want and encourage the behaviours that we do want. So to keep things simple we have to understand that we aren't actually trying to 'train' out an unwanted behaviour. The objective is to BLOCK behaviours we don't want - a BLOCK can be made by using good Management, verbal, mental and if need be physical. The more ingrained the unwanted behaviour the more dramatic the BLOCK might need to be. This can be very difficult for the inexperienced as they are reluctant to appear rough at all - also in this day and age with our 100% Positive Reinforcement mentality, it is not politically correct to manhandle a dog in any fashion. The advantage an experienced trainer has, is that often they have encountered unwanted behaviours in many different dogs thus have built up an ability to catch the behaviour at an earlier stage and place the block, often with very little sign of doing much. e.g. a dog who likes to hump peoples leg...... (I use this example as had one of these dogs yesterday).... Generally people wait to do anything until the dog is actually attached to the leg..... whereas when the dog arrived here he came up to me to say hello and immediately moved his nose into my crutch.... he was being rude so he coped a quick knock away from me... dog then watched and made much more polite moves to get to know me. However 15 minutes later another person arrived and he went into crutch mode and within perhaps 10 sec was into humping (now harder to stop). We then gave him different people to meet and each time he went to the crutch he got a knock away. Dog now starting to understand that he should not invade the humans space. The objective is to BLOCK the behaviour when he is still in the thought process - as in the above example, when he is sniffing - this is the behaviour that pre-empts the unwanted behaviour. Once he is in the mode of humping the leg he is in mindless mode and the lesson is not as obvious to the dog. With repetition a dog can start to altere his behaviour then there is a chance to TEACH him a different way to respond. This process can be used for all behaviours - and not one piece of food insight. In our school we dealt with many different problems over the last 20+ years - our objective is not to just provide a distraction to the problems but get the dog and handler to face the problems and learn how better to deal with issues - and it is true to say that nowdays I am much more subtle with my Blocking Response. We have many dogs who are reactive to other dogs and there are different approaches that we use depending on the personality of the dog we are dealing with. However our classes are run with dogs off leash for most of the class - reactive dogs might stay on-leash which is a form of Management and also allows us to use a physical block. Once the dog has learnt to relax in the company of others then they have the chance to learn that other dogs can be fun..... not all dogs are able to adjust and hence become a permanent form of Management but a greater percentage learn how to be social with different dogs and hence become much easier dogs to live with. But the subject of reactive dogs is a topic all of its own.....

I have a dog with Ivermectin Sensitivity - have been using Advantage when needed - no problems.

So much for a communist society - does that mean every chinese national is a millionaire.....