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Really you are free to make any deal you wish... However you are talking about two different things here... a Lease or Breeders Terms. 1. to lease the bitch over to another breeder - From my understanding of ANKC - this requires a written agreement between yourself and the other person which shows conditions of the lease (usually done for another breeder wanting to have a litter)... length of time of lease and further points such as how much you receive either cash or pup; How many pups in litter and what age are pups considered surviving (i.e. 3 days, 3 weeks, 8 weeks);who is responsible for vet expenses for litter; who pays/how much should the bitch die ,.... The bitch is then signed over to the other breeder for the agreed time. 2. Breeders Terms - this was usually done when someone gets a pup from a breeder.... however the breeder wishes to have a litter (or litters) in future. In this case usually the bitch stays in the breeders name but resides with the family.. again... a written agreement should be made so that both parties understand the terms... This is often a great way for a new person to become involved in breeding themselves, this allows them to be involved with the litter and learn about breeder.... From my experience it was a common thing back in the 80's and it was how I started out.... Conditions can vary dependant upon what is agreed.... It might be 1 litter or minimum 6 pups (with survival age considered); who pays what costs (ie normal living costs compared to the litter costs); who pays for health testing for breeding such as hips/elbow; etc etc Ideally you should feel really comfortable dealing with this other breeder and try to think of all scenarios so that you both understand where you stand... Remember any agreement made should really be a fair deal for both parties..... good luck

There is a thing called 'coons disease' - this will often show as a possible tick problem... unsteady in legs and increasing to paralysis.... my brothers dog went to his vet and they thought it was tick however once they went to the neurological vet (which was at the Bondi Vet at the time) they immediately said "Coons Disease" - which has no treatment but just good nursing to keep dog healthy while it runs its course... Friends in USA said it was called 'coons disease' because it is often associated with the 'CoonHounds' that catch it off bites from racoons or skunks..... but often linked to a recent vaccination or even from eating raw chicken.... (might make sense as often racoons and skunks will kill and eat chickens) I hope this information might be helpful.....

Always difficult for science to actually agree... after all studies are set up to check - recheck - disprove...... and of course various studies that look at different angles of a similar question ....Hence it can take perhaps 10 years before society starts to see some of the conclusions that a drawn from all of these studies.... let alone time then for government groups or welfare to actually filter thru and start to realise that perhaps they need to change the regulations.... We actually do have an interesting summary written which takes in 55 different peer reviewed studies.... "Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs". by Laura J. Sanborn, M.S. May 14, 2007 Consider also that Dogs Victoria and Monash Vet University have now issued a Position Statement to say that they do not recommend Juvenile Desexing - Hopefully this will alter the breeders tendency to want to desex everything..... perhaps we will start to see local councils or some of the rescue groups start to alter their thinking. As a breeder.... I have to say the above information is enough for me to recommend that our pups are not desexed until after 14 months or so.... Just as with other factors such as diet or social development.... I don't want to waste 10 years for policy to come into effect.... the health and welfare of the dogs I breed are my first priority.

Actually it can be quite easy to make a simple balanced meal... at least better than what the Commercial Food Companies are doing now....For a start you can use real meat (not a meat by-product)... we don't have to get to worked up about getting trying to get the 'correct ratio' of fat to protein........ It is more about giving the dog a varied diet - using different meats such as beef/lamb/roo/venison helps to feed the different gut bacteria.. We can use products like Vets All Natural Complete Mix which will help to add the different minerals our dogs need from (without the cooking process that will kill of the benefits).... We can add products like Greek Yoghurt, sardines, fruit and bone broth. All relatively easy to buy or make.... Common sense applies.... we can buy our kids a Happy Meal for dinner.... OR.... we can get some fresh fruit and vegetables and make something for them..... Seems a pretty easy choice.....

look up a product.... www.vetsallnatural.com.au.... they have a product called complete mix...

Whether any of us think that the studies into dangers of certain commercial foods might be 'inconclusive' - do we really want to wait until further studies are done to clarify whether a food is safe or not... after all it can take years before studies are actually taken seriously by Governments or Associations..... In the meantime are we having problems with pets health. Remember the studies about the risk of juvenile desexing came out in 2012 but it was only 2019 that Dogs Victoria and Monash Vet University issued a Position Statement to state they do not recommend dogs/bitches being desexed until mature.....!!! Me .... Im happy I feed raw food - at least I know what is going in the bowl....

Perhaps it is a lesson in understanding that really a big Commercial Company is more focused on their profits.... they are a self regulated industry and the only time any outside body will come and check is when there have been serious problems proven... Surely they should be testing their products regularly looking at the quality control in house... but obviously not happening.... Companies have loads of ways to market their product to the consumer.... one way is too choose names like 'holistic' or 'Nature' ... when it is probably the same crap as found in any other processed food... It is like McDonalds... just because they might serve the food to the table on a wooden tray in a wicker basked doesn't make it any better than the fried crap served thru the drive thru window... So just like with our children... feeding food as close to its natural state makes more sense.... at least we know what is in the bowl....

When you have animals you have to accept that at times 'shit happens'.... but this is much the same as life in general.... having children is a risk, getting married is a risk, buying a house is a risk.... But also different life experiences are what makes us grow... I am sure you have wonderful memories of your 10 yo dog and perhaps only having one year with your next dog has made you nervous... but the reality is that your first dog lived till 10yo which for many of the bulldog is not considered unusual. Now we are learning from science that more and more there are things we need to consider... 1. how nutrition can affect a dog from prior to birth... what the mother is fed may impact the pups, immune system is developed in the womb... 2. processed food seems to have an impact on cancers - even the 'premium' brands are linked to some major problems.... 3. juvenile desexing can affect dogs with regard to bone growth and further problems.... Perhaps the fact you are even coming on here and asking the question... means you are ready for another dog.

Pet mince is often okay but there can be a some variety in the quality ... there are companies in Victoria around that may suit your needs - www.tuckertub.com.au - deliver most areas and www.bestforpets.net.au - deliver in the north central area.... I have bought mince from both of these and been very happy with the quality. I am a full raw feeder, changed over to raw 10 years ago and wean my pups from 3 weeks of age onto raw... we don't use kibble at all... instead we follow the Vets All Natural system.. you can learn more about this on www.vetsallnatural.com.au... we also feed bones, yoghurt and sardines a few times a week.

Regardless of what these types of articles say, the only way to really tell if a raw diet is better for your dog is to test it yourself... This article again is USA based (which always makes me skeptical) and really is only comparing 3 different commercial type foods.... so in effect could we relate this to comparing a hamburger from Macdonalds... to a frozen burger from the Supermarket or to the cook to order at a local Fish and Chip shop.... might have some variations to benefits but really not anywhere in the same realm as comparing ANY commercial product to the home made product. she states that there is not the scientific studies to believe that to feed fresh raw is any better! It is nigh on impossible to really give a broad scientific study on raw, based on the fact there is so much variation available to the home shopper.. but if we do consider much of the research that is out about 'gut health' (mainly from Europe) then common sense tells us that feeding dogs a mixed raw diet as opposed to commercial food then is as good for the dog as it is to feed your kids a good home based diet instead of the junk food....

Processed food is processed food... no matter how much you pay nor how pretty the packaging... The trouble with the commercial companies is they really care more for the bottom line and will feed you any line to convince you to spend your money on their products..... If you were happy using the Vets All Natural Roll but find it difficult to source - why not consider using the Vets All Natural Complete Mix with raw meat - we also add some yoghurt each day and sardines a couple of times a week... You can buy the Complete Mix online and have it delivered and source your meat from a local supply... I worked out that I can feed my dogs for about $4 per day each... so very much comparable to a supermarket processed food.... and I believe they are getting a good balanced diet without having too much fuss.

Maddy, I really don't see why you felt the need to respond negatively towards my comments.... One of the things I hate about social media is how it seems that people can be so ready to take offence and suddenly have all these online experts.... just accept that there are other points of view and often these are from people who have more experience. You are obviously a greyhound owner hence feel you know best....You may well have fostered greys but you have done this with dogs who are already been assessed as potential for domestic living. Hence you are probably dealing with the dogs who have that lovely soft relaxed nature. One big issue I have is the change to regulations meaning that Greys will be able to be out and about without muzzles.... regardless of whether they have passed the assessment testing - (personally think the GAP assessment program is terrific and should be compulsory) Queensland already has no muzzle for greys in place... and already getting issues with Greys grabbing small dogs in public - This is a big concern, we already have people in VIC who are letting greys off at the beach and dog parks - (greys do not have great recall)... with the rules changing we will have unmuzzled greys coming into the public that may not have any assessment or retraining - these could be a high risk off lead. I have had 40 greys thru here for retraining that were ones who had failed assessment... even with intensive work there were about half of these that were unreliable with small dogs..., under the new regulations the trainers can even hand these failures over to anyone in the public who wants them.... If a Greyhound's that have that prey drive.... can and will do a great deal of damage to another dog.... It is not about whether the greys are suited to live in a family home... it is about whether the public are able to understand how to handle this breed UNMUZZLED. So like ALL rehoming of dogs.... I believe families need to have assessment and support.

Actually think that Dr Dawson has been very fair in her comments on this article. Not all dogs (greyhound or otherwise) are suitable for adoption. The nature of adoption and rescue programs are such that the people involved (although well meaning) tend to be led by their emotions rather than a steady logical approach. Hence money is often spent unwisely to 'save' dogs that are past the point of success or even for dogs not really suitable for adoption. There are issues with greyhound adoption just the same as with any rescue adoptions. Greyhounds have a reputation for being a lounge lizard and hence perhaps many people go in with the wrong expectation - IF the GAP system are preparing the dogs to go to pet homes and IF they have a good selection process for pet homes then likely they will have a great success rate. However when they hold adoption weekends and have 50 odd dogs going out to homes what is the likelihood of all these homes being a great match.... All rescue/adoption programs should be providing a backup and committed support to ensure success for the dogs and families involved.

Perhaps the breeder hasn't behaved in a professional manner - if they have taken a deposit and left you with the idea that a particular pup was yours.... however the reality is that until you have the pup and money paid... there is always a chance of things changing... Online forums - it is important to remember that there are two sides to every story.... the breeder might have a different angle on this.... after all most breeders won't allocate a pup based on photos only - really most reputable breeders would want to meet you first before allocating a pup or at least have recommendations from people they know.

Sorry but have to say you have not been a responsible dog owner.... NOTHING works as well as a good fence....Unfortunately you have allowed him for months to learn how to escape and he enjoys going to the neighbours to visit as it is more fun there... I I am surprised your neighbours have been so good about it up till now... if I was your neighbour I would be holding on to the dog and ringing the ranger probably after the 2nd time I had asked you to comply... You need to secure the yard, In fact the. bigger the yard the harder it is to secure the perimeter - Instead you are better to create a back yard of perhaps 400sqm and make this secure... Just like a house backyard..... if he tries to dig under then you can have an electric tape placed low so he learns to leave the fence alone... It should be tall enough that he cannot scramble over - but you can provide an electric tape higher up if needed.... It is your responsibility to keep your dog contained to your property... so when you consider spending perhaps $1000 to provide a proper fence is better than a bad relationship with the neighbour or fines from council. Desexing won't help prevent this bad habit... however it will do no harm as he is now mature enough for desexing to not affect his growth... Once you have effected a secure fence you then need to work on building your communication skills with your dog.... Find a good trainer to help....

One of the easiest ways for people to feed raw and have good balanced diet is to follow the Vets All Natural (VAN). The Complete Mix has been around d a long time and Dr B Syme has been researching this for decades. hence us Joe Average can be fairly safe to accept that he has provided a good balance for the vitamins and minerals needed for dogs. I have been using this for over 8 years and weaning and raising litters of pups from 3 weeks of age. This is what we recommend to the puppy families..... We use the VAN and add either beef or roo meat (uncooked) along with a scoop of Greek Yoghurt and a drizzle of oil... Also adding some sardines and ox neck bones... We find this works well for most dogs and yet is still pretty affordable and often cheaper than some of the expensive dry such as Royal Canin or Eukanuba. We basically don't throw away anything... soft veggies can be cooked up into a stew and supplement the diet.... leftovers from the table go in their bowls or in the chook bucket.... Keep it simple ...

Like in any profession, there are good and bad .... and the indifferent.... Vets are no different. Personally it is not a problem for me as I learn as much as I can about my breed and health issues, so that I am equipped and ready to question any of the vets. However as a professional Trainer and also as a breeder - My biggest issue is that most of the public are guided by the vets and believe the statements given as gospel... however the vet has a tendency to give throw away lines without giving the clients the full breakdown.... also there is minimal time that Vets spend with clients to cover the health aspects with their animals. Now when I talk with my training and boarding clients or when we have Breed Information Days is that I now have to go thru the various aspects of health to give as much information and references to provide the alternatives to the 'Marketing Hype" that is being feed to the vets and hence being passed to the public. My main beef with the Vets is on the following topics. 1. DESEXING - Vets still seem to insist on puppies need desexing at 5-6 months.... often using scare tactics of - prevents cancers, it prevents males from marking and reduces aggression issues... Note all of this is actually showing up to be incorrect information yet most vets seem to be completely obsessed with this..... 2. VACCINATION - Seem to be ready to throw around the annual vaccination and no further discussion, very few seem to offer any alternative information. 3. DIET REQUIREMENTS - it is almost standard to hear vets reciting what we read on the packaging and in the Pet Magazines... "dry food has all the nutrient value your dog will need"..... "use a good quality dry food (just like the one we have here on the shelf)"....... "don't feed human food it is unsafe for your pet"...... "don't feed raw diets" I have met some great vets... both going back to the 70's and 80's and also some now... I am sure there are many... but as we see Commercial Companies start to take over local vet practices we are going to find less and less good vets as they will just become employees of the Corporate and hence will be hamstrung my the idea of producing profit.

As a trainer and a breeder - we never recommend someone getting a second dog until the first one is at least 2.5 years old... that way the first dog has matured enough to be more settled with a pup coming into the home... It also means that you create a great bond with your first dog and when the second pup comes you can also give this pup the chance to bond with you... Also your mature boxer can help your new pup learn the ropes - otherwise you might end up with huge problem of two outrageous teenagers that can go over the top. I would stay away from breeds that have heat problems, such as the frenchies etc, If you want a short hair dog I assume you don't want lots of dog hair so you might want to forget about labrador as we find they are one of the biggest for hair loss in the kennels. you need something that can play at the level of a boxer... surprisingly some of the wire haired breed might suit... schnauzers and cairn terriers are fabulous and have great energy without a silliness that will wear out your backyard... another I love is the Visla but some can be a bit stress heads so really talk to breeders about their dogs... one of my all time favourites is the Loggoto - amazing dogs who just keep on keeping on but are really steady and sensible. Best of luck - but really think about waiting till your dog is older....

One of the big things to remember is that the nutrient levels shown on the packaging are all PRIOR TO ANY COOKING.... hence we know that heat changes the elements..... therefore what they say on the packaging is actually... well BASICALLY BULLSHIT They can say it is lamb.... just because it came of a sheep... but what part ... it can be the crap bits that are all left overs that once upon a time... normally go in the bin

Actually see that Rodney Habib (planet paws) has put up some information about this article... probably worth noting that the author is actually involved with the major dog feed manufacturers.... Which can often happen when you search about the authors on various articles.... Recently also read a comprehensive article in the Pet Industry Magazine about the future of pet food.... the article didn't talk about the food or the quality or lack there off... in fact it actually discussed the future marketing objectives of the Pet Industry about how the millennial generation want to know about the science behind the food and that want to know the food is made in a 'kitchen' not in a factory.....with fresh ingredients just like when they go to a restaurant themselves and want the food presented in a certain fashion..... Which made me think about the new advert I have seen where someone is in a restaurant and places an order and the waiter takes the order out the back to the 'kitchen' where the 'chef' then chops up some lovely steak whilst another is washing and chopping fresh vegetables then it all gets poured into a bowl (which they show a hint of pouring in some kibble)..... and then carried out on a tray to the DOG..... We have already seen many of the dry food products now coming out with names that sound natural... 'Earthborn' 'Natures gift' etc... the marketing spin they were talking about means we are going to see appearing in the future will be products with names like SV786 - marketing to the tech savvy owners as well as more of the 'holistic' mentioning for the future yuppie. The Big Companies are going to fight against the raw feeding because they don't make profit from those who do it themselves.... so watch out for the bullshit heading our way about how many of our 'natural' products are going to come under fire for the danger of bacteria etc.......

If you only have had the pup for a few weeks. Then I suspect the breeder should refund the purchase price of the pup.... if it was only a few weeks, then the pup would have had the tumour already. Not that this would be something the breeder would realise. As far as costs for treatment it would seem unreasonable to expect the breeder to reimburse costs that you incurred... after all I imagine it is unlikely the breeder was given an option as to conduct $5,000 work of vet work... If I had been advised of some health issue of the pup I would really insist the dog was returned. Refund the amount and I would put the pup down.

'Asher' you are correct in saying that this is due to different factors.... Some dogs are not very adaptable - they can find social interaction difficult - yet they can fit outside of the 'norm' and the procedures that many trainers will often recommend don't really fit. These dogs like to have the world work to their schedule. Dogs can be nervous and try to scare other dogs away... or .... somewhat arrogant / frustrated when others won't play the way they want. Each dog is an individual and when addressing these types of issues there is no - "one solution" because there is no - "one motivation" for the behaviour. It is often worth thinking of kids in the school ground - they have to learn how to adjust and adapt to fit in with different groupings of kids. For some it is easy for some it takes time and others seem to really struggle. But learning how takes practice. We run workshops for dogs to build social skills. Our own dogs mix with many dogs and have broad skills which makes it easier for the dogs that struggle, It is also the humans who have to work out when to step in and when to let the dog alone to learn by trial and error.

Looks like you have a JRT type... don't be alarmed, this behaviour is quite normal... 6 month old terriers (especially JRT types) get too big for their boots and think they can take on the world... this really has nothing to do with the dog being entire but more just the age he is - basically he is now a teenager and he wants to make his own decisions - You have to create boundaries.... if you don't this behaviour will continue and become worse... There is no problem letting him have off leash play, but sounds like you need supervision with someone who understands how to create good social play. He needs to have patience.... this starts at the basics.... walking on the lead... he is not allowed to pull - if he seas another dog he is not allowed to bark or pull on the lead... you have to make him wait and wait and wait - don't make him sit just let him fiddle around on the lead(not pulling) until he realised you are not going to change. ..then you make him wait and wait again - until he stops and just watches.... until he becomes calm. This requires you to be calm and patient.... when you go to a park or walk in the street if he starts to yip or growl or bark you stop and correct him... you need to stop the mouth from taking charge of his actions....

These online groups can only check so much... They say they verify their sitters Quote "Just a note that the admin team does check every profile and you can see at a glance how the Pawshake team has verified their identity, be it through phone call, email, SMS or Facebook. I hope that helps! " Anyone, with any background can set up a phone number and email an SMS or have Facebook... this is NO VERIFICATION as to who they actually are.... what name they are using or even if they have had a criminal record for theft, animal cruelty.... There is no POLICE CHECK...no WORKING WITH CHILDREN CARD.... no COUNCIL APPROVAL.... no INSPECTION OF THE PROPERTY/FACILITY... not even to sight a DRIVERS LICENSE... I'm not saying you won't meet some wonderful people offering pet sitting in either Your House or Theirs.... however any Joe Sleezy Blog can set up the account and join..... Sheese... the 'Millenials" will see to accept anyone or anything as long as it is recommended on Google or social media..... Let the Consumer beware!

The metho doesn't need to be used for long... just when you see an outbreak - perhaps for 1-2 days and you break the cycle before it has a chance to get full blown. I wouldn't be having any vaccination at this point as her immune system is already overloaded... After all Vaccinations don't need to be done annual... three yearly has been approved by the AVA.... ref: Dr J Dodds... and also another reference is an article "Annual vaccinations are they necessary" by Dr. Bruce Same on www.vetsallnatural.com.au Also avoid worming etc... until the skin is back to normal.... One thing I will say... personally, don't really believe there is a better quality kibble.... they all have additives.... instead consider the option of the Vets all natural complete mix instead... he also has one for skin sensitivity....