alpha bet

Really you are free to make any deal you wish... However you are talking about two different things here... a Lease or Breeders Terms. 1. to lease the bitch over to another breeder - From my understanding of ANKC - this requires a written agreement between yourself and the other person which shows conditions of the lease (usually done for another breeder wanting to have a litter)... length of time of lease and further points such as how much you receive either cash or pup; How many pups in litter and what age are pups considered surviving (i.e. 3 days, 3 weeks, 8 weeks);who is responsible for vet expenses for litter; who pays/how much should the bitch die ,.... The bitch is then signed over to the other breeder for the agreed time. 2. Breeders Terms - this was usually done when someone gets a pup from a breeder.... however the breeder wishes to have a litter (or litters) in future. In this case usually the bitch stays in the breeders name but resides with the family.. again... a written agreement should be made so that both parties understand the terms... This is often a great way for a new person to become involved in breeding themselves, this allows them to be involved with the litter and learn about breeder.... From my experience it was a common thing back in the 80's and it was how I started out.... Conditions can vary dependant upon what is agreed.... It might be 1 litter or minimum 6 pups (with survival age considered); who pays what costs (ie normal living costs compared to the litter costs); who pays for health testing for breeding such as hips/elbow; etc etc Ideally you should feel really comfortable dealing with this other breeder and try to think of all scenarios so that you both understand where you stand... Remember any agreement made should really be a fair deal for both parties..... good luck

There is a thing called 'coons disease' - this will often show as a possible tick problem... unsteady in legs and increasing to paralysis.... my brothers dog went to his vet and they thought it was tick however once they went to the neurological vet (which was at the Bondi Vet at the time) they immediately said "Coons Disease" - which has no treatment but just good nursing to keep dog healthy while it runs its course... Friends in USA said it was called 'coons disease' because it is often associated with the 'CoonHounds' that catch it off bites from racoons or skunks..... but often linked to a recent vaccination or even from eating raw chicken.... (might make sense as often racoons and skunks will kill and eat chickens) I hope this information might be helpful.....

Always difficult for science to actually agree... after all studies are set up to check - recheck - disprove...... and of course various studies that look at different angles of a similar question ....Hence it can take perhaps 10 years before society starts to see some of the conclusions that a drawn from all of these studies.... let alone time then for government groups or welfare to actually filter thru and start to realise that perhaps they need to change the regulations.... We actually do have an interesting summary written which takes in 55 different peer reviewed studies.... "Long-Term Health Risks and Benefits Associated with Spay / Neuter in Dogs". by Laura J. Sanborn, M.S. May 14, 2007 Consider also that Dogs Victoria and Monash Vet University have now issued a Position Statement to say that they do not recommend Juvenile Desexing - Hopefully this will alter the breeders tendency to want to desex everything..... perhaps we will start to see local councils or some of the rescue groups start to alter their thinking. As a breeder.... I have to say the above information is enough for me to recommend that our pups are not desexed until after 14 months or so.... Just as with other factors such as diet or social development.... I don't want to waste 10 years for policy to come into effect.... the health and welfare of the dogs I breed are my first priority.

Actually it can be quite easy to make a simple balanced meal... at least better than what the Commercial Food Companies are doing now....For a start you can use real meat (not a meat by-product)... we don't have to get to worked up about getting trying to get the 'correct ratio' of fat to protein........ It is more about giving the dog a varied diet - using different meats such as beef/lamb/roo/venison helps to feed the different gut bacteria.. We can use products like Vets All Natural Complete Mix which will help to add the different minerals our dogs need from (without the cooking process that will kill of the benefits).... We can add products like Greek Yoghurt, sardines, fruit and bone broth. All relatively easy to buy or make.... Common sense applies.... we can buy our kids a Happy Meal for dinner.... OR.... we can get some fresh fruit and vegetables and make something for them..... Seems a pretty easy choice.....

look up a product.... www.vetsallnatural.com.au.... they have a product called complete mix...

Whether any of us think that the studies into dangers of certain commercial foods might be 'inconclusive' - do we really want to wait until further studies are done to clarify whether a food is safe or not... after all it can take years before studies are actually taken seriously by Governments or Associations..... In the meantime are we having problems with pets health. Remember the studies about the risk of juvenile desexing came out in 2012 but it was only 2019 that Dogs Victoria and Monash Vet University issued a Position Statement to state they do not recommend dogs/bitches being desexed until mature.....!!! Me .... Im happy I feed raw food - at least I know what is going in the bowl....

Perhaps it is a lesson in understanding that really a big Commercial Company is more focused on their profits.... they are a self regulated industry and the only time any outside body will come and check is when there have been serious problems proven... Surely they should be testing their products regularly looking at the quality control in house... but obviously not happening.... Companies have loads of ways to market their product to the consumer.... one way is too choose names like 'holistic' or 'Nature' ... when it is probably the same crap as found in any other processed food... It is like McDonalds... just because they might serve the food to the table on a wooden tray in a wicker basked doesn't make it any better than the fried crap served thru the drive thru window... So just like with our children... feeding food as close to its natural state makes more sense.... at least we know what is in the bowl....

When you have animals you have to accept that at times 'shit happens'.... but this is much the same as life in general.... having children is a risk, getting married is a risk, buying a house is a risk.... But also different life experiences are what makes us grow... I am sure you have wonderful memories of your 10 yo dog and perhaps only having one year with your next dog has made you nervous... but the reality is that your first dog lived till 10yo which for many of the bulldog is not considered unusual. Now we are learning from science that more and more there are things we need to consider... 1. how nutrition can affect a dog from prior to birth... what the mother is fed may impact the pups, immune system is developed in the womb... 2. processed food seems to have an impact on cancers - even the 'premium' brands are linked to some major problems.... 3. juvenile desexing can affect dogs with regard to bone growth and further problems.... Perhaps the fact you are even coming on here and asking the question... means you are ready for another dog.

Pet mince is often okay but there can be a some variety in the quality ... there are companies in Victoria around that may suit your needs - www.tuckertub.com.au - deliver most areas and www.bestforpets.net.au - deliver in the north central area.... I have bought mince from both of these and been very happy with the quality. I am a full raw feeder, changed over to raw 10 years ago and wean my pups from 3 weeks of age onto raw... we don't use kibble at all... instead we follow the Vets All Natural system.. you can learn more about this on www.vetsallnatural.com.au... we also feed bones, yoghurt and sardines a few times a week.

Regardless of what these types of articles say, the only way to really tell if a raw diet is better for your dog is to test it yourself... This article again is USA based (which always makes me skeptical) and really is only comparing 3 different commercial type foods.... so in effect could we relate this to comparing a hamburger from Macdonalds... to a frozen burger from the Supermarket or to the cook to order at a local Fish and Chip shop.... might have some variations to benefits but really not anywhere in the same realm as comparing ANY commercial product to the home made product. she states that there is not the scientific studies to believe that to feed fresh raw is any better! It is nigh on impossible to really give a broad scientific study on raw, based on the fact there is so much variation available to the home shopper.. but if we do consider much of the research that is out about 'gut health' (mainly from Europe) then common sense tells us that feeding dogs a mixed raw diet as opposed to commercial food then is as good for the dog as it is to feed your kids a good home based diet instead of the junk food....

Processed food is processed food... no matter how much you pay nor how pretty the packaging... The trouble with the commercial companies is they really care more for the bottom line and will feed you any line to convince you to spend your money on their products..... If you were happy using the Vets All Natural Roll but find it difficult to source - why not consider using the Vets All Natural Complete Mix with raw meat - we also add some yoghurt each day and sardines a couple of times a week... You can buy the Complete Mix online and have it delivered and source your meat from a local supply... I worked out that I can feed my dogs for about $4 per day each... so very much comparable to a supermarket processed food.... and I believe they are getting a good balanced diet without having too much fuss.

Maddy, I really don't see why you felt the need to respond negatively towards my comments.... One of the things I hate about social media is how it seems that people can be so ready to take offence and suddenly have all these online experts.... just accept that there are other points of view and often these are from people who have more experience. You are obviously a greyhound owner hence feel you know best....You may well have fostered greys but you have done this with dogs who are already been assessed as potential for domestic living. Hence you are probably dealing with the dogs who have that lovely soft relaxed nature. One big issue I have is the change to regulations meaning that Greys will be able to be out and about without muzzles.... regardless of whether they have passed the assessment testing - (personally think the GAP assessment program is terrific and should be compulsory) Queensland already has no muzzle for greys in place... and already getting issues with Greys grabbing small dogs in public - This is a big concern, we already have people in VIC who are letting greys off at the beach and dog parks - (greys do not have great recall)... with the rules changing we will have unmuzzled greys coming into the public that may not have any assessment or retraining - these could be a high risk off lead. I have had 40 greys thru here for retraining that were ones who had failed assessment... even with intensive work there were about half of these that were unreliable with small dogs..., under the new regulations the trainers can even hand these failures over to anyone in the public who wants them.... If a Greyhound's that have that prey drive.... can and will do a great deal of damage to another dog.... It is not about whether the greys are suited to live in a family home... it is about whether the public are able to understand how to handle this breed UNMUZZLED. So like ALL rehoming of dogs.... I believe families need to have assessment and support.

Actually think that Dr Dawson has been very fair in her comments on this article. Not all dogs (greyhound or otherwise) are suitable for adoption. The nature of adoption and rescue programs are such that the people involved (although well meaning) tend to be led by their emotions rather than a steady logical approach. Hence money is often spent unwisely to 'save' dogs that are past the point of success or even for dogs not really suitable for adoption. There are issues with greyhound adoption just the same as with any rescue adoptions. Greyhounds have a reputation for being a lounge lizard and hence perhaps many people go in with the wrong expectation - IF the GAP system are preparing the dogs to go to pet homes and IF they have a good selection process for pet homes then likely they will have a great success rate. However when they hold adoption weekends and have 50 odd dogs going out to homes what is the likelihood of all these homes being a great match.... All rescue/adoption programs should be providing a backup and committed support to ensure success for the dogs and families involved.

Perhaps the breeder hasn't behaved in a professional manner - if they have taken a deposit and left you with the idea that a particular pup was yours.... however the reality is that until you have the pup and money paid... there is always a chance of things changing... Online forums - it is important to remember that there are two sides to every story.... the breeder might have a different angle on this.... after all most breeders won't allocate a pup based on photos only - really most reputable breeders would want to meet you first before allocating a pup or at least have recommendations from people they know.

Sorry but have to say you have not been a responsible dog owner.... NOTHING works as well as a good fence....Unfortunately you have allowed him for months to learn how to escape and he enjoys going to the neighbours to visit as it is more fun there... I I am surprised your neighbours have been so good about it up till now... if I was your neighbour I would be holding on to the dog and ringing the ranger probably after the 2nd time I had asked you to comply... You need to secure the yard, In fact the. bigger the yard the harder it is to secure the perimeter - Instead you are better to create a back yard of perhaps 400sqm and make this secure... Just like a house backyard..... if he tries to dig under then you can have an electric tape placed low so he learns to leave the fence alone... It should be tall enough that he cannot scramble over - but you can provide an electric tape higher up if needed.... It is your responsibility to keep your dog contained to your property... so when you consider spending perhaps $1000 to provide a proper fence is better than a bad relationship with the neighbour or fines from council. Desexing won't help prevent this bad habit... however it will do no harm as he is now mature enough for desexing to not affect his growth... Once you have effected a secure fence you then need to work on building your communication skills with your dog.... Find a good trainer to help....