Luke W

Your's too Snook!! As are everyone else's. Some very nice cloning - you'd never know.

I've tried it a little but gave up pretty quickly - I found it wasn't generally as effective as doing it by hand. From memory, it worked ok where is was easy to do by hand anyway. I use a Wacom tablet for my serious photoshop work - and that helps immensely. I have used the content aware scale on occasion. PS - when I look at it closely - I can see quite a few tell-tale marks of cloning Not my best work. But if you're not looking for it - you probably wouldn't notice.

PS.

I can't remember which photos I clone and which one's I don't.. I remembered this one and hunted it down... I often remove jumps and things from the background in agility photos. Illusion shattered.

Following up from what NotMidol (who the hell is he anyway ;)) said... Do you have a definition of cruel in mind? Abusive? IMO, "without a doubt" is pretty strict criteria. I'd modify it down to 'likely' or even 'possible'.

naaww...Widget looks like he's about to say "What?" and Bernie looks like he's ashamed and high-tailing it out of there ;)

Corvus - I think understand what you are saying. From a personal perspective, you challenge the assumptions and decisions I make (often unconsciously) about how I train my dog. You ask that I think (really, really think) about what I'm doing. You ask for objectivity (as far as is humanly possible). You ask for measurable outcomes. FWIW - I think your approach and perspective (while definitely admirable) - is far, far beyond the average professional dog trainer (let alone the average pet owner). There aren't many Bob Baileys out there, teaching dogs not to bark at the front door. Was I close?

Do you mean getting him to walk on a loose leash? Or walk on a loose leash and maintain that position all the time? I don't think that sounds like something that would be a big failing as a handler, though I guess we all have different expectations and priorities. I personally don't care if my dogs walk in front of me, as long as they don't pull on the leash as I find walking dogs that pull on the leash really unpleasant. Loose leash is no problem 99% of the time - unless there's something particular tasty just out of reach on the ground (discarded sandwiches for example) - he's not a puller. I'm incredibly fussy. I want him to walk shoulder to my leg, on lead 100% of the time (a 'loose heal position'). I don't like running into him when I turn, or having to use the lead to guide him or changing the length of the lead.....Hmmmm....my standards are a bit high aren't they I'm forever saying 'close' - it's his cue to slow down and drop back 6 inches. I don't walk him much on lead - off-lead parks abound in Melbourne. Oh yes, and who could resist gravy indeed!!! added again. Sorry for the thread hijack OP!

Thanks JulesP :) Your dogs stays are something I dream of :)

Yeah, the first bit was easy. Go to mat is a pretty solid behaviour. These are the sort of things that are 'slow' 1. Building duration. 2. Proofing. Ie. When I spill gravy on the floor and have to turn my back to go to the sink to fetch a wash cloth. added - and even these - I know if I put in more time and was more consistent and motivated - I could get these solidly proofed pretty quickly. You gets whats you put in.

Not talking in regards to whether you are using rewards or aversives etc, but Luke W, how long would you persevere with a method without seeing a positive change or consistent (desired) results? How long would anyone else persevere with something before deciding it wasn't working? The above just made me curious. I would question a training method that took a long time to start showing the desired outcome. Obviously the big picture things we train can take years to perfect, but we can see progress and know we are on the right track. Interesting question. In this particular case, ''slow" means weeks I guess. But that's more to do with my inconsistency At the moment, he knows the verbal cue "kitchen", coupled with a body cue. He does this pretty reliably for me (as long as the body cue is obvious enough) he'll remain there for minutes at a time. It's not an automatic behaviour when I walk into the kitchen yet though. I started seeing small changes in behaviour immediately. If I didn't, then I'd try something else immediately. Except of course for the things that are really hard and I have no idea how to train against. Some of those I persevere with no results for years and/or start to learn to live with. It depends on how important they are to me. As an illustration, I'm ashamed to admit I've never been able to get him to walk on-lead with his shoulder level with my legs. He's always walked half his body length ahead. It sometimes drives me crazy and it's one of my biggest failings as a trainer. His formal heal position on the other hand is mostly spectacular - go figure. In a general sense, I'd expect to see even the slightest change immediately and at least slow but steady process. I'm a patient man. In the meantime, I try to manage the behaviour. I'm not really willing to give big corrections or use physical punishment. I'm a softie and not very good at it. I've never had to deal with a very aggressive dog or a behaviour that I truly couldn't accept (and that includes Barkly's resource guarding).

I suppose it really depends on how the dog is affected in the long term. Either -R or +P can elicit a long-term conditioned emotional response, and in some cases it can be quite non-discriminative (e.g punish dog for counter-surfing, dog gets anxious in kitchen if there isn't a clear contingency between counter-surfing and punishment). This is really the whole point of limiting the use of aversives, we limit the risks of fall-out. Speaking of counter-surfing I'm currently training Barkly to stay out of the kitchen. The new addition to my household isn't quite as used to him getting under her feet as I am, and he's not as adept at getting out of her way as he is mine (years of agility means he knows exactly where I'm about to move to). :) I'm training it by 'teaching an incompatible behaviour'. The 'incompatible behaviour' is being in a down in the dining room whenever we're in the kitchen. It's a slow, but stress-free approach.

I think it would be a real shame if in 20 years time the only acceptable training method was positive reinforcement. Do you really believe that every dog can be trained using "100% positive training" only? Taking into account the difference in each dog and handler, the different goals, behaviour problems and purpose for which people train I am always a bit perplexed when someone thinks that there is a one size fits all approach for training. Personally, I don't see how anyone could train '100% positively' because there is always some element of stress in learning. Removing a reward from a dog can be more aversive than giving a correction with a prong or e-collar. It's about context and the dog you have in front of you. I don't really understand the us and them mentality that these kinds of threads generate. I'm not sure what we think will be achieved from running down other trainers or their methods. If someone wants to be a DELTA qualified trainer and use only those methods and style of training props to them, but forcing that style of training on to everyone else is tiring and I don't understand why so many people waste their energy trying to convince everyone else that their training style is the only one that is 'right'. Dog training is not black and white and there is a lot more to it than being a training who uses positive reinforcement only and being a trainer who uses compulsion or aversives. I really could not care less about the methods other trainers use, I'm far more interested in seeing the results they get with the dogs and humans they work with. If a 100% positive only approach is getting them super results, that's brilliant. If a trainer uses compulsion or aversives and achieves super results, great! Most pet owners that seek help from professional trainers don't know or care about quadrants or training theory in general. They care about the results you can help them to achieve with their dogs. That's why I find these kinds of debates (and we all love a good debate) generally become really tiring, pointless and honestly quite pathetic. Training shouldn't be about positive vs negative, at least I don't think it should be. It should be about getting the best result for dog and handler. I'm not sure what else matters more than that. You're right about the 100% positive - I'll go back and edit my post and remove "100%" and explain in my "edited for" comment. Here's a good article on the Karen Pryor site. http://www.clickertraining.com/node/988 For what it's worth - I believe it's not just the results that matter and I'm sure you're the same. And no surprise to anyone - a thread on DOL is making me think about my own attitudes, preconceptions, and level of knowledge.

To the OP... Seeing as the thread has (unsurprisingly) strayed into the pros and cons of positive versus compulsive training methods and the Delta versus NTDF philosophy...Perhaps it might be a good idea to familiarise yourself with the controversy. A few of questions to help you start thinking about which course would be most suitable for you. Are you new to dog training? Have you done much reading on training in general? Are you familiar with the four quadrants that have been mentioned here? Do you know what positive training is? Do you know what compulsion and aversive mean? Do you know what operant and classical conditioning mean? Do you have a philosophical position on training? Are you willing to inflict pain, discomfort, stress or anxiety on your dog to achieve your training goals? Are you willing to forgo some training methods and therefore make training your dog harder? Are you interested in the science of training? I'd suggest you do a lot of reading (not here). A 'positive' training methodology (a la Delta) - is slowly winning favour in the mainstream (as it has been in the animal training world for many years) as the most effective and humane method of animal training. Personally, I believe that in 20 years time, compulsion and aversives will have gone the way of rubbing your dog's nose in it's piss. Finally - training positively for some behaviours is not easy. It's particularly challenging to use positive training to stop a dog from doing something. It's not impossible though and there are ways to avoid even needing to train a dog to stop doing something. I have a philosophical bent towards positive training. I'm a human though and sometime I do growl at my dog, or correct it with a flat collar. I wish I didn't though. It's one of my failings. If you want a reading list (biased towards positive training).,.these books have inspired me... The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson Don't Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell * Edited: Changed "I have a philosophical bent towards 100% positive training." to "I have a philosophical bent towards positive training"

Zoomie.jpg No EXIF - but I bet the shutter speed was faster than the others. DSC_0044.JPG 18.0-55.0 mm f/3.5-5.6 55.0 mm 1/160 sec; f/5.6; ISO 1600 Shutter speed too slow (or your panning wasn't quite spot on, panning dogs is tough). DSC_0456.JPG 18.0-55.0 mm f/3.5-5.6 55.0 mm (in 35mm: 82.0 mm) 1/125 sec; f/5.6; ISO 360 Shutter speed too slow. For fast running dogs, you'll want to have a shutter speed of at least 1/500. This will mean: bumping up the ISO until you get 1/500. If you can't get 1/500 with your highest ISO...time for a faster lens ($$$$). Shooting in brighter conditions will make your chances of getting the shot higher.

You want to see my unedited images??!?!?!?!?!? I know. Sort of like leaving the house without make up on. Or pants. I was thinking about doing a self-portrait this afternoon with me and Barkly. But I can't find the screw that holds my camera to my tripod! I think I threw it away during a recent office cleanup. "What's this little screw? Meh, bin."

And then we could talk about the difference between each of the focus points, how they work and why you STILL don't get focus on what you want :)

I like the last one huga. A creative way to get a person and a dog in the same shot. Nice harmonious colours, awesome focus and sharpness. I like the washed out feel, it goes with the faded and torn jeans. Nice catchlight in the eyes. Some tiny little points... - was the camera parallel with the wall - maybe it's a trick of the eye, but it looks like the wall gets sharpen from left to right. - the line of bricks slopes down to the right - I would have transformed to make the line of bricks horizontal as well. Super picky on those points - it's the critic in me :) Still a lovely shot I wish I'd taken! For those playing at home: Notice the crop position is mid-thigh - perfect - never crop at a wrist, a knee, an elbow. There are specific points of a body where it's ok to crop! Get down at your dogs level. You can shoot from above or below (it's a little trickier), but eye level is the best place to start! Get down on the ground!

You want to see my unedited images??!?!?!?!?!?

I've got a Double K at home that is AWESOME, it's used to dry a full coated Cocker and a lil Papillon!! :p

I don't know if this helps: http://www.ilsau.com.au/respiratory Good luck and hugs

Barkly at the National Agility Championships: Image by Fairley Photography Fairley Photoghraphy - Nationals Heats - June 12 2012

Appollo Archie Armand Arminius Asher Aussie x2 Axl Bailey x 4 Balou Bandit Banjo x2 Bardigrub Barkly Bart x 2 Barton Baxter Basil Bear x2 Benji Benny Benson x2 Beowulf Bertie Billy Bing Bluey Boss Boxer Brady x 2 Brock x 2 Brockie Brody Bronson Bruce Bud Buddy Bundy Buster Caleb Caramel Carl Carter Cash Casper Cedar Champ Charlie x 4 Chester Chevy Chip Chisel Coco x 2 Cobber Connor x2 Cooper x 4 Cowan x 2 Cruise Cuba D'Artagnan Dakota Dalton a joke from the road house movie "I thought he'd be bigger" he is a big boy Damit Danny Darcy x 3 Dashx2 Deakin Deek Dean Declan Delgado Denver Denzal Dennys Dog Deputy Dexter Diablo Diesel Digby Digger Dinky Disco Doc Dog Douglas Dozer Dragon Drifter Drogo Dumas Dylan x2 Ebon Eddie EJ Elijah Elliott Elvis Edge Enuff Esky Fender Fergus FEZ Fido Fionneaghan (Fionn) FlashBazil Flash Harry Fox Frank Franky J Holden Fred Gandor Gimmick Granger Greedy Griffin Gus x 2 Guiness McGuinness Gypsy Hail Hamish Harley Harrison Harry Hemi Henry x2 Hiram Hudson Hugo x 2 Ivan Jack x 3 Jacques Jake x 3 Jasper x 2 JayDee Jethro Jett Jingles Jock Joe Jonty Jordan x 2 Joshua Judd Juggie Kahn Kaiser Kasper Kaos Kiba Kei Kippy Kisho Kobe Kyle Kyojin Kyzer Leo Leroy x2 Lestat Link Logan Louie Louis Luca Lucky Lughie Lukas MacKenzie Magnus Manny Mars Maui Maverick Max x 4 Maxey Maxie Mel Merlin x 2 Merlot Merry Micah Midge Milky Milosh Minook Mistral Mogwai Mokha Morrison Morris Moses Mr Darcy Mungo Murphy Murray Nammu Napoleon x2 Ned Nelson Nicky Nigel Nikolai Nipper Noah Nova Nudge Nugget Nutnut Oberon Odin Ollie Oliver Onslow Oscar x 2 Oso Oz x 2 Payton Percy Piikki Porsha Porthos Punch Quick Rafe Raffy Ralph Rambo Randy Rasta Rauri Reeve Remy Rex x 2 Rhaegar Rhino Rico Riku Riley Ripley River Roary Rocks Rocky x 2 Rolly Rookie Rory Rove Rover Roy Jones Jnr Ruff Ryan Rupert Rusty x2 Sam Samurai (Sam) SARGE Scout Scrap Scratch Sebastion Shadow x2 Silas Snitch Snoopy Sonny sox Speed Spencer x 2 Spike x 2 Sport Spud Stanley Sterling Storm Sully Swanky Tango Tazz x 2 Ted Teddy Tey Dog Theo Thunder Tiger Tirra Toby x 2 Toffee Tonka Trojan Trusty Tub Tusca Tye Tyrant Tyson Ulf Valentino Viserys Vulcan Wade Wags Walker Walter Watson x 2 Weave Will Willow Willy Winston Woody Wolf Xander Yelka Zac Zander Zedley Zep Zephyr Zero Zeus Ziggy Zontie

For nails, I went to a Dremmel. Works a treat - much less stress for both of us.

That's an awesome list. Do you know how long it takes to grant a permit in Frankston? Cardinia?