Luke W

In the RAW processor (the equivalent of Lightroom) - White balance change, some minor changes to exposure, recovery, fill light, blacks, brightness and contrast. In Photoshop, I added a soft focus layer to add extra saturation and a 'glow' to the shot. I then masked his face from the soft focus effect. Not must post processing at all really. But a little can really give it an extra punch (for my taste anyway).

Yep.

Today at the beach:

1. Dunbar Before and After available for download: http://www.siriuspup.com/pdfs/BEFOREphotos.pdf http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/AFTER%20...our%20Puppy.pdf 2. Crate Train 3. Clicker train with food

Sometimes it can be made a bit better. Post a link to the full-res version.

I ran into problems with Barkly targeting multiple parts of his body. I would make sure his nose touch is very strong before you introduce any other targeting. If you really want to do it at all. I would make sure his verbal cue is absolutely rock solid and that he doesn't nose target without the verbal cue. When you introduce a new body part - his natural tendency is going to be to use your body or target cue and nose touch.

Ignore Adobe Image Ready. To learn how to use Photoshop - start by deciding what you want to do and search google for a tutorial. For example... Start by learning how to crop, straighten and resize, sharpen and save. Then move on to adjustment layers (curves mainly). Then the clone tool Then layer masks. google search for "photoshop crop tutorial", "photoshop straighten horizon" That's pretty much how I got started. Then I read some books.

drool - Elspan baby ! Belinda did really well at the Royal Melbourne... Yep - no problem using pic for the website.

Awesome!

As opposed to playing cards - which is time for goofiness

My dog does this a bit as well. I don't have any solutions. The best I could come up with, was getting someone to come to the door 20 times a day and walk away unless dog was calm. Of course this is impractical.But I bet it's going to be the only thing that would work. We just aren't patient enough to out-wait our dogs excitement.

Not that I know of. There seems to be much variation in the signals that people use. It comes down to individual preferences I think.

If you are considering the 70-200 2.8 L IS - I can't recommend it highly enough. For agility - it's a cracker - really. All my agility images are shot with this lens. It's incredible versatile. The 100mm macro is a great lens too - if you like macro work. (It also makes a decent portrait lens as well - but because you've got the 50mm 1.8, you'd tend to use the 50mm for portraits). For the 100mm you need to be close to the subject. Send me a PM if you want me to bring the 70-200 and the 100mm to Croydon.. I'm happy for you to have a feel of them both - -see how close you need to be for the macro etc.

For what it's worth: "Price fixing is collusion between businesses on the price goods and services will be sold to consumers. Price fixing is prohibited under s. 45 of the Trade Practices Act." http://www.accc.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/716949

It's been way too long!

A quick update - Barkly went off to see the specialist last week. His eyes were all good except... The specialist diagnosed a minor case of 'allergic conjunctivitis' and prescribed some stronger steroid drops (Prednefrin Forte). Follow up in 4 weeks - hopefully all cleared up (for good). Sorry I missed you Elfin! Hopefully I'll see you for our follow up!

Done!

Contact Altona - The guy (Murray) who made the ones you saw at Altona still hangs out there - he can probably make you a set. I know the ones your are talking about. ETA - I just emailed Murray to ask if I can give you his email address...

I don't use filters at all. Any more. Most stuff you can do in Photoshop. Polarisers are difficult to approximate in photoshop - but still, I don't like the uneven skies they often produce. ND filters (not grads) can be useful for reducing shutter speed to get flowing waterfall shots. That's about it. A 23 filter kit for $60 bucks? Probably poor quality filters. IMO - better to spend your filter money on an alarm clock to wake you up before sunrise oh - PS - filter size has to match the size of your lens(es) - or you have to get 'step up' or 'step down' rings to convert sizes. Or you can buy Cokin filters which are square and sit in a holder.

With flame suit on and wary of the wrath of the other school... For what it's worth... This is Barkly. "By the time your pup is five months old, he must have a mouth as soft and reliable as a fourteen-year-old working Labrador Retriever: your puppy should never initiate mouthing unless requested; he should never exert any pressure when mouthing; and he should stop mouthing and calm down immediately upon request by any family member. ... For owners who have good control over their dog, there is no better way to maintain the dog's soft mouth than by regular play-fighting. However, to prevent your puppy from getting out of control and to fully realize the many benefits of play-fighting, you must play by the rules and teach your dog to play by the rules."

I just have to say that I adore this photo....... He wubs me

"the website" highlighted in blue above, links to this page: http://kb.rspca.org.au/What-is-a-dangerous-dog_71.html And nowhere on that page does it mention "from a reputable breeder". and a search of the RSCPA website doesn't list any such statement about reputable breeders and pit bulls. What atrocious reporting. I don't suppose anyone checked.

Sounds good. The new AF is particularly interesting.

How do I select the right settings if I'm using Ilford paper and therefore can't use the Epson software? I pick the closest Epson paper. For Ilford Gloss papers - I use the printer setting for the Epson Gloss. Oh - and yes - just print directly from Photoshop. That's what I do. The print dialogue will give you options for paper type. Just choose the closest Epson match.