tdierikx

Virkon-S and Trigene are also effective against parvo... but pretty much ALL methods of removing parvo with a solution of chemicals is to have it in contact with the surface being cleaned for 20-30 mins, then washed off... very time consuming and a PITA - but what price the lives we are entrusted with, hey? Porous surfaces are the worst to clean (but not as hard as getting it out of dirt)... and depending on the surface, it may just not be viable/feasible to get it properly clean. Travel crates and cages are the easiest to clean, as they are mostly non-porous (yay), but bedding, newspaper, etc, is just easier to destroy than to get properly clean. I've destroyed all bedding, toys, etc that were too hard to guarantee being clean enough for reuse. mita has a great point there - we ALL need to be on the same page when it comes to getting dogs to and fro - if the chain of "cleanliness" and "isolation" (to the best extent we can anyways) between pound and carer is broken, there is a possibility that the dogs we care enough about to save may get sick and actually die... and for that reason alone we should all keep the issue foremost in our minds, yes? Right now we are seeing a very early start to the "parvo season", and the number of infected dogs is rising daily. None of us wants to be thought responsible for adding to the problem, do we? I'm not looking for a witch hunt to find and point fingers at anyone - the parvo problem itself supercedes that sort of mentality. All I'm looking for is a good educational reminding of the dangers out there, and hoping that we are ALL doing our absolute damndest to not contribute to the problem. T.

It is legal to prescribe medications off-label as long as the dosages are not likely to cause harm... as far as I understand it it anyways... I will reiterate... The vet advised a dosage of ibuprofen that would not be dangerous to give to the cat in question, and would give it some pain relief until the owner could get it to a vet clinic during business hours. Remember that the OWNER was the one to quadruple the dose... not the vet. T.

You can't and the subject has been discussed ad finitum. A search will find lots of questions about the transport of dogs straight from pounds. But it never hurts to have a reminder topic every now and then, does it DD? Just so none of us becomes complacent... Especially as we are seeing larger numbers of parvo popping up right now... T.

Most pounds I have dealt with charge a surrender fee - but they don't charge 2 different ones depending on whether you want the dog rehomed or euthanaised... that sounds a bit scary to be honest. T.

Normally I have my fosters quarantined at our rescue's kennels before they come to me - but the last lot were not... and they had parvo. They were contained to only the granny flat and the outside pen area - both of which are now unusable for at least 12 months due to wooden floors in the granny flat, and dirt/grass in the pen. The rest of my yard should be relatively clear, but still no fosters allowed for at least 12 months to be much more certain. All crates/cages/playpens/bedding/toys etc they were in contact with have been bleached and F10'd or destroyed. My car has been F10'd also - but I'd still not offer to transport anyone's pups for at least 6 months in my car. As soon as my pups were diagnosed with parvo, I contacted the people who transported them to me, and advised that they F10, bleach, or destroy anything those pups had come into contact with while with them - also gave advice that the overnight foster carer that had them should do the same. But how can you ensure that everyone in the chain is keeping up with good hygeine practices so that diseases like parvo aren't spread far and wide? T.

I have 4 dogs - one is a Lab... and that's enough crazy for me... lol! I couldn't think of having 2 Labs unless I really researched where I was going to get them from. Mine is a BYB, so she's probably crazier than a well bred one. T.

Surely keeping your cat contained within your own property would prevent this? But there aren't any laws stating that cats HAVE to be contained to their own property... stupid, I know, but that's how it is. Keeping your dog from exercising it's prey drive in a public place is probably the best bet - whether that be a muzzle or other device, so be it. T. Obviously. But accidents can and do happen. Sure they do - but we can minimise their occurrences too. If your dog is likely to home in on a smaller animal as prey, then maybe a muzzle in public is a worthwile investment... and that way accidents are less likely to happen, yes? T.

We had an avocado farm, and the dog used to eat the seeds regularly... never did him any harm. I'd be more worried about the onion stuff actually... You are going to get the nastiest farts tonight... but hopefully that will be the worst of it. T.

Here is a pic of my last Rotti... his name was Connor, and the most gentle boy ever. Fully intact his whole life and not an aggressive bone in his body - even when picked on by other intact male dogs... This photo was taken a couple of weeks before he sadly had to go to the Bridge due to bone cancer. Miss ya big guy! T.

The recent spate of puppy parvo cases we've seen here of late has got me thinking... I'm thinkng of not only the quarantine practices of where they end up in care, but the whole process of them getting into rescue - temporary foster carers, transport, etc. Any thoughts on how to minimise the possibility of infection when sometimes a pup (or litter) goes through quite a few hands and environments before reaching the rescue that has stuck up their hands for it/them? T.

You can cuddle Neo, as long as you agree to throw his ball too... What? Only ONE ball in his mouth? You call him a Rotti? My girl Blossom used to get at least 3 in there! Happy to throw a slobbery ball for Neo, as long as he will allow cuddles in between throws... *grin* T.

Surely keeping your cat contained within your own property would prevent this? But there aren't any laws stating that cats HAVE to be contained to their own property... stupid, I know, but that's how it is. Keeping your dog from exercising it's prey drive in a public place is probably the best bet - whether that be a muzzle or other device, so be it. T.

Everyone gets a chaperone at this house... they have to make sure you don't fall in... lol! T.

Oh my! They don't come much cuter, do they? What a stunner! T.

If it didn't hurt just a bit when each one leaves, then you aren't doing it right... *grin* As I foster pups, it can be very hard to say goodbye to the little souls that I've helped mould the personalities of, etc... but the big reward is seeing those well adjusted and confident little buggers trot off happily with their new families and knowing that they will be loved very much for their whole lives. That said - I do have TWO foster failures here... hehe! T.

Plenty of adoption interest appointments at our shelter this week... *grin* T.

My all time favourite heart dog was Woosie the Rotti... she was perfect in every way - and everyone who met her adored her too. My soul broke when she left me in 2004. T.

Funnily enough, pounds CAN be selective with which rescues they will deal with - there is no law that says come one come all with regards to who can take animals. A 16D is all that is required by some pounds, and others take a stricter approach to avoid animals becoming "bungee" pets bouncing from pound to rescue to home to pound again and again. I know 1 pound that has a very short list of who in rescue they will deal with, and who they absolutely won't... and it works very well to get the right dogs to the right rescues, and then to the right homes. Establishing a relationship with the pounds you want to deal with is VERY important. Making judgements and public statements about how things are run is NOT a good start to working with any pound IMHO. You work WITH them, and by THEIR rules if you wish to continue sourcing animals from them... it's not rocket science - but it does involve a certain level of tact and diplomacy on the part of the rescue (and their "agents"). I reckon the reason that some are more successful in their dealings with their pounds of choice than others is completely due to the above. MUP has displayed this admirably - and is well deserving of the accolades she has received - maybe some others could learn from her? T.

My Lab will fetch other dogs' balls, but if told to "give" she'll spit them out quick smart. She sometimes used to take the ball back to the thrower and drop it at their feet if I didn't yell "give" fast enough for the owner's dog to get the ball themselves... most people thought that it was quite funny, but I actively discouraged her taking other dogs' balls. She also has very good recall, so if I saw her going for another dog's ball, I'd call her back pretty smartly - she's bloody fast though, and can see things being thrown from a very long distance... *grin* T.

The only thing better than bookend Rotties on the couch... is being bookended by Rotties on the couch... *grin* T.

Awww.... that is seriously cute! T.

In all honesty, I'd be looking to buy a pup from a reputable registered breeder rather than trying to find someone who wants to breed their girl with your boy. It can be pot luck with pups bred from dogs of unknown backgrounds, and the pups might not be all that you hoped for if the proper consideration hasn't gone into their "creation"... T.

What a stud... lol! T.

My opinion? The person with the uncontrolled dog was in the wrong... and I'm pretty sure even in an off leash area, all dogs must still be under effective control. If she couldn't or wouldn't call it away from your dog, then she is legally in the wrong. T.

I'll give you plenty of warning if I want to board my dogs then OSoSwift... and I don't like holidaying during school holidays, so hopefully you'll have the space... *grin* T.