Tassie

That sounds like you're making really significant progress, hankdog!

But because of the sometimes difficult procedures that need to be gone through to get testing mandatory for registration, I would think it would be wise for someone to contact relevant breed clubs for wider and current information about appropriate health tests.

Thank you so much for being strong enough to do that for Tess, and for coming in to tell us about it - I know that makes it harder cos then you know it's real. It is truly the hardest thing we ever do for our dogs, but in many ways, one of the most important. There will be tears being shed for Tess and all the other good dogs who've gone before all round Australia - and comforting thoughts headed your way. RIP Tess - you were lucky to have been loved so much, and your humans will be able to treasure wonderful memories.

Try PMing Haredown Whippets - one of the resident Whippet experts - or ask in the Whippet Breed Subforums - a subforum in General. Whippet sub-forum Bet your puppy is very, very cute - people will want to see photos :D .

LOL Snook ...sounds like your Justice and my Kirra have the same attitude to anything containing treats left lying around ...the direct route :-).

I have a selection, but have just got a new one - more for out walking than for training, as I usually don't use a bag for training. It's the Doggone Good Rapid Rewards Training Pouch - has a clip for belt, and an optional belt. Lots of pockets, and nice and roomy inside - and zippered space at the back, ideal for some money. The main compartment has an inner pocket, which would fit a smaller cell phone - ot quite big enough for the Galaxy - but that fits in the main pouch, and my treats are in plastic. I'm really liking this bag. Velcro closure is nice too.

LOL kallistar...I'm sure we can keep it going.. ;-)

Just wanted to say - whatever you decide, it's pretty clear you will be doing it in your girl's best interests - weighing up all the considerations. They give us so much - the least we can do for them is to help them out when life is, or shortly will be, painful and/or undignified. They don't know they're ill, or what's wrong with them, and we have the ability to let them go when they still have some quality of life. And as OSS and others have said - it never gets any easier, and we will often second guess ourselves, but we owe it to them. You know you have the support and the thoughts of this community. As I know from experience, that can mean a lot - only other dog people really understand.

whitka - I know Fly isn't a puppy (she's very pretty - and looks smart BTW :) ), but one of the good DVDs around at the moment is the Mary Ellen Barry one, Foundation Fundamentals - aimed at puppies - but foundation is foundation, and IMHO, it's really important to develop the good foundation handling before you try to work on equipment. The obstacles are actually the relatively easy bit (well, weavers apart). As Greg Derrett says, agility is about running with your dog - the obstales are just speed bumps - the steering and teamwork are the real key. (Wish I'd known that when I started with Kirra. :laugh: ). The other important thing IMO, is helping the dog to learn to jump properly and independently. I really like the Susan Salo method.

That looks pretty good, Elise. The main thing is that it's fairly comfortable (endorse the gel seat!!) A bike shop will help fit it for you so that you'll feel comfortable. Light frame is also good if you'll be hoisting it on and off a bike rack. :) . I'm, jealous - like TerraNik - I'm out of dogs. :D

BC4ME You're not wrong there :-). Exciting that the first comp is so close. Hmm - well my list is still about the same length - although Mr Rory has picked up UD scent discrimination pretty fast - not perfected yet, but he's definitely got the idea, so that's one thing achieved - puts the DWD work closer :laugh: .

Thanks BC Crazy. He did good for a performance dog. :-).

LOL - I just went mad and shouted myself a Mason Pearson (thanks dancinbcs for that link to the shop in Sydney). Used it for the first time last week, and love it - and Rory went DogCC/RUBOB and AusBred inGroup in the morning show on Saturday, and BOB in the afternoon - feel like I won the lottery :laugh: .

:laugh: BC Crazy! If only ...!

Welcome to the wonderful world of Border Collies. :D It's quite confusing as there are so many products out there, people have their favourites - and as usual, different products suit different dogs. For a baby ... gentle shampoo (I use Bio-Groom Protein Lanolin tearless - still use it for my show boy's face, and as an all purpose pet shampoo for my agility girl); - a spray bottle for your detangler (or water) to lightly spray the coat before grooming. (My detangler of choice is Plush Puppy Revivacoat - but it doesn't suit all dogs.) - Collie comb/undercoat rake - but also, and for a baaby, this is the only comb I'd use .. a rotating tooth comb - sometimes sold as detanglers - gentler on the skin. - good quality pin brush - not just the cheapos - expensive to buy but will last and do a great job. - good quality slicker - I like Lawrence. And good nail clippers - my preference is for the scissor style ones, although I now mostly use a Dremel with the sanding belt attachment - much quicker. Scissors (curving blade) for trimming under feet. The blades curve away from the foot, so you're less likely to accidentally nick pads. Little and often is the rule for grooming, especially babies. If you can keep the coat tangle and mat free, they are really pretty easy care. Particular attnetion to pants and to the bits behind the ears. I did buy a Furminator, but would never use it on the Border Collies - for the reasons given - great for my chinchilla coated cat though, although you do end up in a cloud of fur . General rule is little and often.

And another one who agrees that I would hate to try and teach 2x2 without the DVD. I found I kept going back to it to check quite frequently. Have used various methods with previous dogs - and agree that different methods can be successful with different dogs. With Kirra, the slanted poles (weaveamatic) worked OK - but then I also had to do a lot of work on different entries. For toy oriented dogs, I just love 2x2 - results come quickly if you follow the program, and you're working entries and lateral distance and independence all at once. And the dog learns that it's a collected exercise - so thoughtful entry, then speed build up through the poles.

Tears for you and your mum on reading this - but how very brave of you guys to let dear Annie go. Hold close your memories, and know that the thoughts of many are with you. And as usual, Persephone has said it beautifully.

:D Thanks ness. And no - not tempted :laugh:

Got a liinky please, TSD?

Can't claim credit for the 4 poles, RS - learnt that one years ago from Deb Kelly (Guirmere BCs) when she came down for a seminar. I've had a bit of success converting a foodie to toys wiht some of those tuggies with a food pouch - got a nice sheepy one from Agility Click, and there are a couple of nice cloth frisbee things with a pocket. You need something with a bit of weight to throw, I think. megan_ - I know what you mean about the looking for the thrown reward - Rory will do that - as he comes out of the last pole though, thankfully. I think the timing of the throw is critical - and the direction - you want to be rewarding the head down drive through to the correct exit, so the throw needs to be hard and lowm and perfectly timed - yeah, right, I know - this from someone who has been known to scare grown ob judges with her DB throws

She's looking great RS. Love 2x2. I guess the only thing I can think of with the pulling out at 10 when she's on your right, is to keep at it, making sure the reward is thrown straight doen the line. I guess you could switch to 4 poles for a while to still work the straight line exit, but take the physical pressure of weaving 12. You do the same thing - work both sides - work round the clock, lateral distance, proofing against handler motion etc. etc.

No silly questions here :-). At the most basic level, it's checking to make sure bitches on the trial ground are not in season. Back in the day, some clubs would actually want to see all dogs, dogs and bitches but now it's usually only botched ..and some clubs will swab all bitches, while others will check for deserving tattoos and only swab entire bitches. You line up to have your bitch checked before the trial proper starts, then your number card is stamped to show you're ok to go in the ring.

Not sure where you are RMR - but assuming you are in Queensland as it says, you should probably have a look at the Dogs Queensland website. If you're not already a member of Dogs Queensland, You will need to join, and make sure Rilla is registered in your name (youi've probably already done this :-)). The Dogs Q website will show you the various affiliated clubs, and the show and trial calendar for the year. If you're a member of a club, I would be offering to help out at one or more of their trials - best way of learning how things tick, without the pressure of your first competition. Enjoy!

Sounds like a good start. Will he play with a toy? One that you can throw? My experience with 2x2 is that it is very much easier with a thrown toy.