Tassie

Where are his priorities? ;-)

So very sorry ... very hard for your mum too, but sometimes there's just nothing to be done.

That looks good, sheena - mind if I borrow that and try it out at our club. :D

So very sorry you and your mum are going through this with your dear old boy. Always so very hard to make those sort of decisions. Sending our very best good wishes to you all. Stay strong for the lad, and whatever happens, treasure the memories of the great times. ETA

:laugh:

All the best CC - hope it all goes brilliantly for you. :)

about Wolf, Bjelkier - but so glad that you were persistent, and that it's all ended well. TSD .. one of the things I teach my puppy class people when we're practising grooming care and checking for ticks, seeds etc. is to sniff the puppies' ears so they know what normal ears smell like - and then their vet will be amazed when they are able to say - the ear smells a bit different,.... could you check it out please. :laugh:

Bummer about Olivia's MCTs , but good that they were able to get them out with good margins. Good to hear that the man is still travelling well.

Quite a bit of misinformation on that website. And missing information .... I couldn't find any mention of the genetic problems (CEA, TNS and CL) that any Border Collie owner and/or intending purchaser needs to be aware of.

:cheer: Was wondering how you got on, biker girl. That's lovely news - great scores - and how good is Mr Jim.

It may be a bit late in the process, but a number of people, me included, have had success with Curash. Same principle of drying up.

Definitely not what you needed to hear. So sorry. He's still a lucky boy to have you by his side.

I'm sorry, Boronia ... is it really bad that your post had me laughing. :laugh: But thanks for the information about Stilboestrol. :)

Good Apple Isle mojo headed your way for you and Boof. All dogs should be lucky enough to have such a loving, caring owner. Hard time for sure though.

Agree - at the upper end - a lot depends on the dog, and how they are managed, and how well their jumping in particular has been trained. I've now retired my BC Kirra - her last trial was in December last year when she was almost 13. She has a light build by nature, and I've kept her lean (much to her disgust :laugh: ), and she has been on joint supplements for years, and managed by her acupuncture/massage vet. She's also had a fairly light training and competition load. I had people watching her closely for the last year or so, letting me know if they saw any waning signs that I was missing. If I thought a course was going to be problematic for us, I just wouldn't run her in that. Really the main reason for retiring her at this stage is that her eyesight is not what it was - cataracts developing , and that would likely contribute to jumping problems, and increase the possibility of injury. Having said all that though, she still insists on joining in training, and loves her runs. I am generally running her at 400 instead of her 500 though. I'm also very conservative at the younger end as well - in no rush to get them into competition.

Oh good, TSD and Kavik. I think that was what I was thinking. Of course it could be different on the ground, but on paper, that was what I was thinking. (Note to self - keep working on PNU stuff to cement those tight wraps. :laugh:) And yes - thanks again sheena.

:laugh: Trying to get organized with video - but still at the fairly un-sexy Flatwork stage. Trying to be nice and disciplined and really consolidating the basics.

Yikes :eek: So very, very glad you're all OK.

Just wanted to say thanks for putting this up and sparking a great discussion, sheena. I'm doing H360 too ... but not quite up to course work. Gotta say I'm loving the verbals, and coming to grips with blinds.

A friend down here has done a course with these people. Don't know about costs or coverage.

I've stayed with the dogs at pets inside cottages, cabins and houses in 6 states. I always make sure when inquiring about bookings that dogs are allowed inside. My dogs are allowed on furniture at home, but not in other people's houses. While Miss Kirra will sometimes try to push the boundaries, she knows she won't get away with it . Their crates are the first thing I unpack from the car, and then they're quite happy. I zip them into their crates when I can't supervise them .. otherwise they just hang out where they want .. floor or crates. I really appreciate being able to stay in comfortable surroundings. I prefer to have a fenced yard, but if not, I can always just take the dogs out on leash.

OMG ...Happy Birthday to that beautiful resilient little dog who truly found guardian angels. Awesome!

Spectators (without dogs) are usually welcome at DWD comps. There was DWD at the Western Classic, last night I think ... not sure when the next one is. There are some awesome DWD teams over West. :) ETA. Looks like there's a double comp at the Dogs West grounds on Friday 10 April. Dogs West office should be able to give you details .. or if you're a Dogs West member, the details will be in the Canine News(?)

Yep - was just about to suggest what sarsaparilla said. (DC's luring under your legs while you're sitting one the floor is good too. I've found that some of the terrier or more stiff legged breeds find the fold back easier - the one that starts from the stand. The hand with the lure goes back between the front legs a little, and then you just wait for the elbows to fold - you can reward this as an approximate step a couple of times, and then wait the dog out till the bottom drops. I like to teach pups both forms of the drop, as each one is useful for different things. It helps if you have nibbleable treats, so that you can hold the treat, pup can lick and nibble, but can't get the treat till you release it. Seems to help keep them in the game longer. If pup stands up, take the food away and then ask pup to try again. The angle the lure needs to go in at for both forms of the drop seems to be trial and error, but patience on the trainer's part is the key. I also find it easier to train if I'm kneeling in front of the pup. Oh - and kikopup has a Youtube video of teaching the foldback.

Another one who says ... be guided by your breeder. Certainly, at first, you'll be better off sticking with what the breeder has been feeding - pup will already have enough changes to deal with. Different dogs do better on different foods - and you need to consider what is do-able for you too. Your breeder will know the lines behind our pup, and will have an idea of what suits them.