Tassie

Worth trying the sound playlists. given your situation next to a reserve, I think I would be treating this a little bit differently, and at least while your boy is oung, try thanking him for letting you know, investigating with him, and verbally and with your body language telling him that it's OK .. not his problem. Then maybe doing a little bit of training with him .. sit,, stand drop, chase you .. that sort of thing .. for rewards ... then maybe giving him a frozen Kong or something to occupy him. I have a 9 month old girl here, first major barker I've had, and it's the tactic I'm trying with her . It's hard for dogs to understand what "No" means .. and also, there may be times when you actually want him to alert you to anything odd goin on at the fence or on the reserve. If you can be out there while the noises keep going, that would be ideal, then you can reward him for making the choice of not barking. Consider that if he's out in the yard, he will likely feel that it's his responsibility to deal with any possible problems. By you paying attention and thanking him for the alert, you are then taking over that responsibility.

Keep checking on him, and if in doubt, vet visit. If they're just enjoying scratching their back, the noises are usually groany ones IME. But see what he's like when you put him right way up. And put your ear against his chest cavity and listen.

From my experience with a couple of mad apricot eating BCs, as long as they leave the stones, no problems.. although if they eat enough, you're likely to get a bit of diarrhoea.

They're very sad circumstances, but it would definitely not be in the best interest of the pup or the mother dog to take a puppy at this age. Is the pup a singleton? That means it's in much greater need of its mother. Is it possible for you to take Lily and the pup until the owner feels able to cope. To be honest, I think your best bet is to talk to the RSPCA (and I'm not normally a fan, but in that area, there are some really good people), and see if they have any experienced foster carers who could help. Another alternative would be to talk to Lily's vet to see if they might have any suggestions. Please do anything you can to help keep mother and pup together.

Here you go ANKC rules. It's under the About Us pull down menu. The disciplines are organised more or less alphabetically .. but some are grouped .. so Rally O is under Obedience. And good for you for looking at the rules! Have fun getting back into it.

So sorry to read this. You have gone above and beyond for this little mite.

Not sure how far is too far, but I believe Pine Rivers is good. (Depends on the kind of training you're looking for, I guess). About half an hour from you. Pine Rivers Dog Training Club

What a sweetie. It really does sound as though she's turned the corner and is starting to settle nicely. Your mum must be relieved.

@sheena Check the ANKC rules and regs .. it's all set out there. The main reg is 6.8, but then there's a list of recognised bodies somewhere else. As far as I know, to be registered entire on the SR, the dog must have a pedigree registration with one of several working organisations recognized by the ANKC .. like ISDS.

Sounds like something's itchy or uncomfortable. There are quite a few allergic issues around at the moment. Anything to do with eyes, or possibly with eyes, earns a vet visit in my house. Worth getting it checked so your pup can be more comfortable.

So very sad to read your thread, twodoggies. Tears here for you and your dear boy, but no more seizures and suffering for him. . It's so hard when they crash so quickly.

My choice for a larger breed, easy going and easy to live with, would be a Bernese Mountain Dog. The ones I know will do as much or as little as you want, are enormously affectionate, usually get along pretty well with creatures large and small. They enjoy doing "stuff" with their owners (ones I know do DWD, herding, drafting, obedience etc. .. but to my observation are not demanding about it. As with any breed, researching and building up a relationship with a good breeder are key. The lifespan in Oz at least has got longer .. but as has been said, giant/large breed on average is going to be shorter than medium or small breeds.

Just check with pharmacist if you're on any other meds .. magnesium is contraindicated with some meds. Sounds like the vet visit was worth it .. if nothing else, it should help you to feel that you're maybe on the track of making Claudia feel a whole lot better. Fingers and paws crossed.

I have in the past done the 3rd one at 16 weeks .. but the last couple of puppies .. same vet .. he's now happy with just the 2 (although I think that would be different if we were in a high parvo area or season.) The advice our dog club has been given is that it's probably safe to allow puppies to enrol in our puppy class after their second vacc at 12 weeks (again, assuming no parvo epidemic) .

Sounds like one of those sad cases where for whatever reason, a person has completely lost the plot. This happened in UK, it was a brother/sister mating , so merle to merle apparently. So inadequate animal husbandry in the first place. The Kennel Club has suspended her registration pending an internal investigation. They need to get their ducks in a row, to prevent her challenging a ban. The KC can't ban owning or breeding .. like ANKC it is a registry. The courts have that power.

Such a hard position for you to be in. Hope your discussion with your vet is helpful. Quality of life is a key consideration IMHO, for your little dog and for your family. In your situation, I think I would be trying the pain/anxiety management through medication for a little while, if your vet is supportive, and managing when needed with the crate/baby gate. or crate/xpen, if it is workable (just to keep everyone safe.) The other thing you could do, which may ease the making of the hard decision, would be to make a list of things in the little dog's life and the family's life that are happy, and another list of things that are problematic/make the dog and/or the people unhappy. This could not only help you make the decision, but help the family come to terms with what is decided. Wish you all the best. You have done so much for this little girl. ETA Was typing when the last two posts went up. The laundry option sounds feasible for a try.

Agree with providing her with a sandpit/digging pit of her own, and then encourage her good choices about where it's OK to dig. As summer comes and you'll be spending more time in the garden, you might want to think also out using a portable x pen where she can be occupied close to you without being tempted ....something like stuffed frozen kongs for her to chew would be good. My experience is that some dogs are keener on digging than others ..my current Border Collie puppy is a digger, and she and my older BC both like to scuff at grassed areas and get into the dirt .. to eat dirt and presumably bugs in them. Obviously she'll also benefit from lots of mental stimulation .. so building on what you're already doing. And she's adorable, by the way.

This was what I was thinking as I was reading this thread. It's not just about the choice of dogs to breed ... though knowledge of possible genetic problems of particular breeds, and modes of inheritance is of high importance, and is one of the hallmarks of a responsible, ethical breeder, and not even just about the breeding bitches .. though that's obviously also of key importance. The thing that's missing in this sort of discussion (and including the new gee whizz state of the art (!!!!! ) factories, is that critical first 6-8 + weeks of the puppy's life. What happens in those weeks is key to determining not only the physical but also the social well-being of the puppy and the adult dog it is to become. When I watch the time and dedication and expertise and learning that breeders that I admire (you know who they are on DOL) spend on puppy raising, it is clear that this is not going to happen in a mass breeding environment, or in any breeding the primary purpose of which is to make money.

Ex Victorian here .. hopefully one of the locals will be along with more info ... but a few things. The NSW registration is only for NSW, so dogs will need to be registered with the local council in Vic You can find information about that at the relevant council websites .. Here's the one for Wyndham Council which covers the Werribee area. An agility friend of mine is enjoying Nosework classes here .. It's a private facility but there are also a few community dog training clubs within relatively easy reach.

So sorry for your loss, Poocow ... but what a grand life Darcy had with you. Another one of the special ones has left the building.

No experience with this specifically, but my adult Border Collies have been on joint support of some sort since they were youngsters. There's quite a big range now, so I'd be consulting with your pup's surgeon, or a rehab vet if you have access to one, on what they have found useful. (And probably on rehab and strengthening exercises generally .. plus things to avoid.) FWIW, my agility BC has regular hydrotherapy, and this may be something that would assist in keeping your lovely lad nice and strong. I'm a worry wort, so I'd be limiting his access to activities that you see are likely to cause him to be lame or stiff ... but again, seek guidance from your surgical/rehab professionals.

My 15.25 year old BC girl was diagnosed with Lymphoma back in February. Prednisolone shrank the lymph glands for a week, so bought me at least that much time. I saw no ill effects from the steroid but as my vet says, it's a one-off effect. The glands gradually came back up again, although thankfully she didn't seem to have pain. She did have some little collapse episodes (like partial absent seizures, which became more frequent, but was eating and happy enough, although getting tired, until the last evening Dr Google says average 1-2 months with no specific chemo treatment .. I got a good 6 weeks, with a quietly comfortable and apparently happy old girl. See how many of her favourite things you can fit in. It's not easy .. but it's certainly not the worst way to go. My old girl also had underlying early stage kidney disease .. asymptomatic at that stage ... and that would have been worse, I believe.

I always thank the dogs, and go to investigate what mine are barking at . If it looks like something that might go on, they come inside, just so I know they're safe and not annoying anyone.. I think you're doing the right thing by investigating, especially at this stage .. otherwise she may begin to feel she has to take all the responsibility.

It can be a step by step process to transfer the value ... especially if it hasn't been part of the pup's routine from a real youngster. It's not a bad thing IMO to have food as a high value reinforcer for some behaviours (where part of the behaviour is closeness to the handler, and toys for other behaviour, where it's fine to deliver a reward more remotely, but it is best of all to make sure that the pup not only loves the toy, but loves it as part of an interactive game to play with the handler. That can be increased by crazy excited behaviour on the handler's part while playing (easier for female humans, I think), and by having two similar tug toys, and playing a game where the pup learns to switch readily from toy to toy as indicated by the handler.

Sounds good. I'd just say, don't forget that for at least part of any walk, the walk should be the dog's walk .. sniffing, etc. etc. Then switch to the more controlled part where there are other dogs and/or people.