Tassie

Sounds encouraging. Did the vet include an SDMA test when they did the bloods? Per my vet, this is a much more sensitive test than the usual BUN/creatinine that are done in the basic CBC panel.

As has been pointed out, there are so many variables. To be honest, as a buyer, my first consideration is what breed/s do I want to spend the next 15 years of my life with. Then what breed/s would be appropriate for my lifestyle, living conditions and budget ongoing. At that point, I will be looking for word of mouth recommendations from people I trust, I might be researching on DOL, and maybe visiting some shows to meet some breeders in person. At some point I will make contact with a breeder whose values as far as I can make out, are in line with mine .. on breeding decisions, health testing, puppy raising methods, support offered, especially to new dog owners etc.etc. etc. I would obviously have given some consideration to a price range that I could be comfortable with, but it's certainly not up the front of my actual choice.

If non ANKC pedigreed dogs are registered on the Associate Register they must be desexed. There is alsio an ANKC Sporting Register, which does allow for entire dogs and bitches, but they must be registered on a limited number of specified pefigree registries accepted by the ANKC ... the list is on the ANKC site .. but an example is ISDS registered working sheep dogs .. so there are many Sporting Register Border Colliws competing in agility.. All kinds of dogs compete in agility, but Retrieveing (except for a basic aptitude test) is linited to Certain breeds ... you can find the details on the AN KC website, and as far as I know, they must be ABKC registered.

FWIW, I am primarily a performance person so I have no reservations about getting a dog on LR, because I am only going to get a pup froma breeder whose practices in relation to breeding, including extensive testing, I approve of, and who knows me or of me enough to know what kind of life my dogs have. In the case of both my current dogs, the breeders were considering whether to keep the dog I eventually got, or a sibling. So my dogs were 'show quality" . As it happens, both dogs ended up on Main Register .. one was the breeder's decision .. knowing I had a local mentor in the breed who would likely show the dog for me, and the other at my request, once people whose opinion I respect here said the dog was worth showing. The breeder was happy to do the upgrade. Both dogs are now neutered ... one is a Tri Ch Neuter Ch ... and the other has a show Ch and is working towrds performance titles. Bottom line in my opinion is taking the time to get to know breeders and being honest and open in your dealings. Common sensew really, though sadly, not always all that common.

So the answer id ,,, it depends, The first place you're going to win points is at your breed level, once the pup is 6 months old. To get points, you have to win your class (eg. Minor PUppy Bitch, then compete against the other bitches (if any) for the Bitch Challenge. If your bitch is the only one of her breed, then as long as the judge is prepared to award her, she would get 6 points ..and would then go on to compete with the best male for Best of Breed. So the basic points for Best of Breed is 6 .. and then 1 point for each dog/bitch 6 months or over, beaten The Best of Breeds in each Group go on to contest Best in Group .. 25 points I think .. (my dogs didn't ever achieve that , and then the 7 Best in Group go on to contest Best in Show.. More points. So how long and how many shows does it take to make up a Champion? Depends on how many dogs in your breed are being shown. Small numbers can mean more chance of getting Challenge points, but at 6 points a show, it will take you a minimum of 16 shows. And no, there is no requirement to travel interstate to gain your points. Hope that helps.

My only worry would be the airbag if there are airbags. If not, as the others have said .. a proper seat belt attachment harness should be pretty safe.

Yes ... well done on those first points. As @Rebannesays .. they are precious. (Do make sure you keep your records and certificates safe and organised in a folder... it will save you time and stress later in her career .) And I hope you both enjoyed your experience.

Same here @persephone I think it's going to be a bit addictive. And interesting as a Border Collie person, sho's had one dog that learned to work Merinos, to see the big groups of dogs working on the large properies. No expert .. but they're a nice looking litter of pups.

So sorry you didn't have longer with Katie, but so glad that her last weeks were spent in such wonderful care and love.

Agree with @Rebanne. It seems like there's a little inadvertent behaviour chain going on here. You might get some ideas from this podcast. https://dogsthat.com/podcast/16/

As long as you don[t have a cat. Advantix is specifically labelled as not for use around cats.

And winning your class from Minot Puppy up gives the right to compete for Bitch/Dog Challenge. Winning that challenge entitles the dog to compete for Best of Breed. @just started and as @Rebanne said, Dogs Vic should hopefully have some of this information available for members. (It does take a while to get your head around it .

The red flags for me in this situation are the other people in the home. The person himself might be able to cope OK .. although maybe not an ideal situation, but apart from the obvious physical dangers of trips and nipping and scratching, there is likely to be maximum confusion for the pup, which is not good for any pup, but perhaps especially problematic for an ACD.. Is the breeder aware of the hoe situation the pup is going to.? How much is the breeder likelhy to bew able to provide guidance and assistance if necessary?

Many towns have FB Lost and Found pets pages, where you can post a description, or photo if you can get it of a lost dog, even when you can't get hold of it. Our local one will put up 'Seen" posts .. that can at least give owners a clue as to where to look. If you can get hold of a dog (I always have several leashes in my car anyway) then first port of call is probably the Council .. but if it's after hours, then calling a vet office you know will often give yous ome guidance as to where you can take them, so that their chip can be read and the dog kept safely. The time I needed to do this .. was with friends fortunately, so we were able to corral the two dogs running near a busy road ... we put them on the lost and found pets FB page, and called a vet office, which said the local vet emergency service would keep dogs overnight till things were open again. As it happened , just as we were finishing those calls and going to head to drip the dogs off, the owners turned up. So the dogs were safe for the time being ... though apparently they were serial offenders . The owners as well as the dogs.

What the others have said. You are to be congratulated in that you recognized that in the changed circumstances, you could not meet the dog;'s needs, and you did the aprropriate thing, which would have been in your contaract with the breeder ... you returned her to the breeder so that the breeder could find a more appropriate home for her ... whcih is whaat has happened. Everything has been done in the best interests of the dog, and while of course you will be sad, you need to be glad for the dog.. When the time and circumstances are right for you, you will be in a better position to get a more appropriate dog, and start a new relationship. Noone, including yourself, should blame you for making a tough decision to put the dog's best interests first.

Although the prices may seem eye-watering, it's worth remembering that apart from the time and effort that has gone into breeding those dogs .. from lines going back generations, and the time spent working them up to expert level.... it's worth also considering that the price paid would probably represent a year or two of stockman's wages, let alone cost of diesel, that the dog and its offspring will likely save the buyer, and future buyers of offspring.

Oh they do worry us as they get older don;t they. Per my vet, the SDMA test is more diagnostic of kidney function than BUN and Creatinine alone. Do hope you get some good news.

The giveaway for vestibular disease in one of my dogs,and a couple of other dogs I've seen with it, is nystagmus .. uncontrolled repetitive movements of the eyes usually flickering from side to side.

Can I say I really like the way you're thinking this through, and the questions you are asking here. As far as gong to a show and talking to people is concerned, it can be a bit hard. Probably rule #1 is don't try to talk to someone when they're obviously busy getting a dog ready to go into the ring in a short time. Just take your time to have a wander and have a look at the breeds that you like. It's worth looking at the ANKC websit to see the list of breeds and the groups that they're in. Some make a lot of sense.. like Group 5 .. Working Dogs .. pretty much msot of the stock working breeds. Others have a weird and wonderful mixture. A good approach to not so busy people is to appreciate their dogs, and ask about some of the characteristics. That would be an icebreaker. On your question about Rally and Obedience. Obedience is a much older discipline, and is very formal. The dog/handler team are told what to do by the judge, and the exercises are laid out in the rules, and how penalties are to be applied. Handlers are limited in what they cansay to their dogs and when. Rally was introduced to have a rather less formal competition, which still requires good formal obedience skille .. heeling, neat sits. downs etc., but allows the handler to talk to their dogs, and encourage and praise them as they make their way round the course, which consists of a set number of 'stations' where there is a sign indicating the action to be performed by the team.. Some of those will be turns, others, things like have the dog sit, walk around the dog returning to heel position, and then once the station is completed, move on to the next numbered station. Handlers (without dogs) have a period to walk the course and work out what they will be required to do. The handler is responsible for getting round the course, once the judge has told them to start. So in that sense, it's a bit more relaxed,

I'm basically a dog sports person .. obedience, Rally and Agility, but I was lucky enough to get a show quality boy from a WA breeder, who when she found I had a mentor (who she knew) who wanted to show Rory for me, he came to me on Main Register. So I was lucky not to have to learn to handle, but it took a while to sus out the system. For their Champion, they need to accumulate 100 points ... which they get by winning at Breed level, based on the number of dogs and bitches in their breed they beat ... then if they win Best in their Group, iit's more, and then Best in Show .. beating the winners of the other 6 Groups ... more still. My boy started his career with a Best Baby Puppy in Show (!) .. no points for babies ... and finished his title just after his 2nd birthday with a 21 point Best of Breed and RUnner Up in Group 5 at Launceston ROyal, under an International judge ... a bit exciting. He has gone on to be a Tri Champion (Tracking and Rally as well as conformation) and Neuter Champion .. he was neutered at age 9, and has titles in Obedience, Agility and Dances with Dogs as well. So you never know where things will lead you. Definitely go to any shows you can get to, and get to know some breeders whose dogs you like. And as far as other disciplines go, wa is the home of some great positive dog training, so have a look on the Dogs West site to see what ANKC affiliated clubs might be near you.

That was a horrible thing to have happen to your pup, @MadisonC. It"s fortunate that his physical injuries are not worse, and also that the other dog's owners have taken responsibility - at least that's one thing off your mind. It's quite likely, since it had already started, that the uncertain behaviours in relation to people is not directly related . That sort of age can in some dogs be a time when they might experience another fear period. And it's unlikely that it has to do with Ace still being entire. It might be worth trying to get in touch with a specialist vet - specialising in behaviour. You'll find a list of them here https://www.anzcvs.org.au/chapters/veterinary+behaviour+chapter - you'll need to scroll down to get to the lists .. and then you can scroll to the list for Victoria. (I personally know 2 of the vets on the Victorian list.) Lockdown might make things a bit difficult, but some may do online consults. You might also get some useful general information in a couple of the Susan Garrett Dogs That podcasts.. This particular one https://dogsthat.com/podcast/45/ is relevant to your situation. In the meantime, distance is your friend ..as I think you're already doing. I like the ;emergency; turn and go .. just a U turn, preferably with you stepping in front of your dog as you turn, and trying to stay very cool for him .. treats if he'll take them. Please keep us updated as to how Ace is going.

Good for you for checking that with your vet. I would be making sure that the area is not one that's used by large numbers of dogs, but I have certainly done that sort of thing with pups. Socialisation is not just meeting other pups .. the more important things in some ways are seeing and hearing the big wide world. And you do know that photos of said puppy are really important .. DOLers love their puppy fixes..

A super nice fellow at our dog club has a lovely Whippet boy called Obi ... getting on now, but the nicest dog, and the name really suits him.

Following on from what @persephonehas said, it might be useful for you to do some fairly serious record keeping .. noting things like activities, time of day, particular behaviours noted, possible triggers noted .. that sort of thing. Then as a general principle, you would be concentrating on staying within the pup's comfort zone, and making distance for him away from things he might find concerning. As we can't see your pup, we are basically only suggesting possibilities. 9 months of age can be a time when pups can go through a fear period, so it is really important for the next few weeks not to put him in situations that he finds stressful or worrying. At the same time you can concentrate on building up pup's confidence by using reward based methods and teaching him tricks for instance, or setting up scent puzzles for him .... treats hidden in boxes, and making a big happy fuss of him when hne gets things right or even nearly right. There plenty of tricks online ... have a look at The Wonderdogs, and at Kikopup on Youtube. ANd you mnight find some interesting information and ideas in Susan Garrett's podcast series ... you can find them at www.dogsthat.com/podcast. This one might give you some ideas for some fun exercising in lockdown time. Episode 32: 20 Easy Ways to Exercise Your Dog at Home - DogsThat

In most places with lockdown, getting veterinary treatment for an animal is an allowed reason for leaving your house .. but probably not further than the specified distance. Check with NSW Public Health website. It's likely the vet will be doing car park handovers, so check with your vet about the protocols they are using. So the 12 week vaccination should not be an issue. And in terms of puppy training and entertainment .. have a look at a game often called It's Yer Choice ... helps puppy to learn not to mug hands, and eventually, to leave food on the floor until/unless given permission to eat it. And little recalls, hide and seek, chasey games .. pup chasing you, all help to build the relationship between you and the pup (always rewarding when the pup find.catches you, If pup is wearing a collar , get pup used to you touching and eventually grabbing the collar being a good thing ... always rewarded with a treat. If the weather is nice, you could sit outside in your front yard and let pup see and hear the world go by. Oh and we would love to see photos of the small one.