Tassie

As others have said, it varies - but in general sooner is better than later. Most dog clubs that I know of take puppies into their puppy class as soon as the pup has had 2nd vacc (that is about 12 weeks - some vets like the pup to wait another couple of weeks after second vacc - and I'd do that if there was parvo in the area. Check with your local dog training clubs on their requirements. Puppy classes at local clubs will often have pups at different levels - no big deal - the instructors can give the more advanced handlers some additional work to do - like going from just learning to get their pups to drop, to building up a little drop stay. Puppy classes are not so much about learning specific commands, but about building up a teaching and learning relationship between the pup and the handler. They will also deal with handlers' questions. And of course, there's always the meet and greet with other puppies - particularly pups of different breeds, and learning to observe dog behavioiur. Most clubs will start the more 'formal' training when the pups are about 6 months, and are mature enough to cope with a class which may have raw beginner adult dogs in it.

I'm another who wouldn't put a check chain or a halti on a puppy. I used one of the Black Dog training collars - (scroll down to training collars) - with Rory, and really liked it. All the advantages of both a martingale and a normal flat collar. It just made sure he couldn't slip out of a flat colalr while he was learningn to walk nicely on lead.

Superminty and TSD - you guys are really raising the bar a bit high, aren't you? And WTG Ness getting Miss K to enjoy that mock trial (just about to watch the vid.). Hey Ptolomy - I'm planning to come over for Agility Nats April/May next year - hope it all works out. Haven't been to Perth for a very very long time,and it seemed like a good chance - and Rorys breeder can see how the little man has grown.

Good advice from Ness and Kavik here. BTW, I don't know what your club does in agility with 6 months old pups, but personally I wouldn't consider putting a Boxer on any equipment until about 12 months - but the preparatory work on the flat is vital, and will translate well into obedience. As the others have said, your most important job is to make yourself more fascinating than the other distractions . Lots and lots of reinforcement coming from you - even for a brief moment of attention. Use your body movement as much as you can to stimulate his attention. Personally, I'd be working further away from the distractions - i.e. not too close to other dogs - and then as you get more focus, moving in closer. You can use the sniffing as a reward - a moment's attention to you, then reward with a release to go sniff for a little while. A 6 month old Boxer is still a baby, so you're only going to be getting little bits of attention at a time. If I find my 9 month old BC boy losing attention in a class, I'll just apologise to the instructor, break off and go and take him for a wee or something to let him get his brain in gear again. If you haven't worked on 'look at me/watch' as a separate exercise, I'd certainly be doing that.

Have PMd you KC - and didn't read the original message properly - Hobart, no problem.

Turf hockey shoes are the vogue here - though some wear touch footy shoes. I have Grays hockey shoes - pretty good, and others have Ditas. Better if you can get them here - you can be sure of the fit then.

Hi Noels - that would be me too. I love doing different stuff - but I'm not a dedicated or consistent enough trainer to get perfection. I am trying to be good with Mr Rory, and put a lot of foundation work into him - not specifically obedience, although I think what I'm doing will pay off in obedience. Luckily I don't have to do the show stuff - I have a lovely friend who does that - I just taxi him round, and enjoy it . Miss Kirra doesn't believe in obedience (the discipline that is ) - so I don't have to fit that in with her. We mostly do agility now - training maybe only once a week now she has her Masters titles. I was lucky to have the chance with Kirra to learn to do some farm sheep work - that was a buzz, and both she and Fergus got their TD and got Test 4. Hopefully Kirra and I can go on with our tracking this year, and I've started some baby tracking with Rory. My time is somewhat limited since I've gone back to work 4 days a week - to be able to feed the luzxury part of my doggy habit . Oh, and then there are the couple of classes I teach at dog club on Sundays. I'd love to do some more with doggy dancing - but you're right - it's incredibly time consuming and difficult in ways the other disciplines aren't - even at just above entry level. And I need someone pushing me to do stuff and do it properly. But hey - the dogs and I are having fun - and if all we're doing on a given day is hanging out - that's fine too.

It's all very exciting - well done! I thought all ANKC affiliates issued a Title Certificate as well as the new Certificate of Registration. And at least some issue a Breeder's certificate as well, certifying the dog (with title) was bred by ...... My agility girl's breeder likes to keep those - which I think is pretty good.

I'm so very sorry to hear of your loss of Jessie, troppodogs. I lost a much loved BC to immune mediated haemolytic anaemia about 8 years ago - it was also a case of going from apparently fit to dead in just a few days. I also lost a 7 year old BC boy to accidental poisoning last year, so I totally know the shock and grief you're feeling now. It's natural - and if my experience is anything to go by, your other dog will definitely be grieving too - and that grief may go on for some time - for both you and your OH and your other dog. I agree with Erny about giving your other dog jobs to do - maybe train some new tricks or something. Depending on your situation, you might also consider getting another dog sooner rather than later. I did that both times - the new pup arrived after about 6 to 12 weeks, and in each case, made a huge difference to the surviving dog. Not saying that's always an answer - just that it worked for my dogs. And for me, of course. Take care of yourself - and know that many of us here can know and sympathise with how you're feeling. The tears will never be too far away, and you will shed a few even years later when you hear of similar things happening to other much loved dogs.

The new one is probably something called Nobivac. My little big man Rory had a 6 week C3, then a C5 at 12 weeks. My vet doesn't now do the third puppy shot, so Rory's next one will be at 14 months. I usually take a new puppy to the vet for an introductory well puppy visit, pretty much as soon as they arrive. (Great chance for the pup to build up happy asociations - lots of cuddles, nothing horrible ). That's a good time to discuss the worming and vaccination protocols with your vet.

Now that's what you call a good weekend . Young Gabby sounds like she's doing brilliantly for you. :rolleyes: about the 2.5 minute stand stay. My first BC Sam did one of those one day - he was concerned about the stand in dog, so he moved about a metre forward in an out of sight, (can't remember if it was UD or Open - may have been UD), then stood without moving for the rest of the time. Dogs'll do that to you.

Sure is. I hadn't put the remains of the box away yet, so this morning he got it up on the bed and resumed the destruction. ;) Can't complain though, he's only destructive about paper and cardboard, for the most part, so I let that go.

No eventually about it with the box I was using with Rory last week, Gamby. (Just started some free shaping with him.) I'd left the box in the living room, and during his mad hour yesterday evening, when I was checking my email, I heard ripping souinds - next thing along comes a happy grinning BC pup with the remains of the box hanging out of his mouth (Reminds self to bring another suitable box home.)

Aaaaww! Seriously cute. He was tiny, wasn't he. Very good looking little man - and you've got to love a sleeping puppy.

You're very welcome. It seems like this time of puppyhood will go on for ever ... but it doesn't. My boy is 7.5 months now, and almost, almost totally reliable - well, at least as far as peeing goes. Your baby sounds like a lovely puppy. Make sure you take plenty of photos of him while he's little. they grow up all too fast.

The thing is i havent used a crate for at least a month with him, he sleeps outside with my other 7 year old foxie. He is inside in the afternoon and night before bed. the method i am using is just yelling at him and saying no, and i know he understands that he does something wrong coz his tail hangs between his legs and then i put him outside. Please don't yell at your puppy - he's a baby - and no, he doesn't know he's done something wrong - he just knows that you're yelling at him and he's scared - no wonder he puts his tail between his legs. All this is likely to do is to make him fearful of you, and probably more likely to pee. Unless you catch him in the act, just clean up with vinegar or a specific enzymatic cleaner, and think to yourself what you were doing that you weren't watching him. I really like the idea of having a light long line connecting you and the puppy while he's inside - that way, you'll be remembering to watch him for signs he's going to pee, and you'll remember to take him outside after he's been eating, or playing for a while, or sleeping. If you do catch him in the act, just a quiet 'No' or "Uh-uh" as you pick him up and quietly take him outside - then wait and watch and praise him when he pees in the right place. As far as the biting etc. goes - you're right - it will be worse while he's teething. Again, a quiet "Uh-uh" and give him a chew toy and encourage him to chew and then tell him what a good pup he is. So he keeps getting the message that you know he has to chew, but chewing on you is not OK. So it's good if you've got chew toys close by wherever you are in the house.

4 month old BC? I'd second a recommendation for a thorough vet check first up - if it's not just rough play, it sounds pretty unusual - so vet check would be my frist step. A vet who knows something about aggression sounds like a good place to start. Can the person get some of the behaviours on video - or even just video general interactions the pup has.

Yep - totally agree - meant to say something about size and general flexibility . 12 months is fine for a fit, flexible girl like Kenzie - and I have to say you exercised noble restraint, ness, after getting your 2x2s . And I think the delay is paying off. To do weavers well and at speed is quite challenging mentally as well as physically, so I think you're reaping the benefits of giving her those extra couple of months. :rolleyes: ETfix typo

Greg and Laura Derrett were saying at the Melbourne seminar that they leave weaves till last. They start formal obstacle training at about 13 months, so their dogs are about 15 months when they get to weaves. I'm planning to leave weaves till my boy is at least 12 months - (for reasons Poodlefan said - strain on legs and back), and maybe later.

Good advice. I was going to add - I've found the 'umbilical cord' method good - especially when there's a busy adult. the pup is tethered to the adult on a longish line if they're not in their crate or pen. They just mooch around with you - have some freedom, but not too much, and you can't really forget them - so you're more likely to take them outside regularly. Interrupting an accident is fine - just don't be too stern - a little 'Uh-uh' is usually enough. Otherwise, if you haven't been there - don't get upset - just clean it up with an enzymatic cleaner or vinegar, and remind yourself to pay more attention . It does take a while for some pups to get the idea of going outside when they need to go, or of telling you. My BC boy - it was probably 4 months before he was anything like reliable. Good on you for praising the little pup whenever he toilets outside. That definitely helps.

That's my sort of experience with my BC boy. He's 7 months now - can usually sleep through from about 10.30 till 7.00 - sometimes a bit later, sometimes a bit earlier - but occasionally - like last night - he jsut needs to go in the middle of the night. (The dogs get taken out on lead at night - too many critters around otherwise.) Last night it was for a wee about 3.00 am, then about 20 minutes later, for a poo. That had a fiar bit to do with the fact that he'd helped himself to a couple of apples from the tree yesterday evening. For the OP - a rule of thumb that I've seen is that it's reasonable to expect a healthy pup to hold on for 1 hour more than its age - so for a 5 month old - 6 hours overnight is not unreasonable in normal circumstances (which obviously don't include eating more than 1 apple .

Heidi A couple of thoughts. I know you're keen to get going, but consider that it's not fair to your dog to enter a trial when the dog isn't pretty darn confident on the equipment. I'm one of a number of folks who only entered jumping trials for about 6 months, before I started entering agility. (Even then I probably started trialling too soon ) The trial environment can be pretty challenging - remembering that you'll likely be very nervous, and there's lots of hype - so IMHO it's worth holding off on trials until you and your dog have done lots and lots of preparation.

Yep - agree with Laffi and Kavik. BTW Laffi - I really liked that idea of imagining there was no wrong entry - to get the correct line for the right hand tunnel entry. Must try that - I have trouble with off-entries - I can get the RFP/baulkk/threadle arm - bit, but then have trouble setting the correct line for the left arm send. As I understand it, you hold the threadle arm (right arm in this case) just long enough to get the dog past the worong entry, and then resume the left arm and continue to the tunnel - so thinking about it, it really is just a threadle manoeuvre, isn't it. The Derretts call the off arm the 'evil arm' - change of arm means change of sides - but if you used the off arm (right in this case) to send to the tunnel, you'd be signalling, but actually wanting, a change of sides. Sorry - I've probably confused people again - just do what Laffi and Kavik said.

Hope you've seen the vet by now. I'm with neatz - don't muck around with eyes. My BC pup had this for less than 24 hours and I was at the vet - apologising for probably wasting his time - but he was really pleased that I'd brought the pup in so quickly. Couple of days on a/b ointment and he was fine - it came back a week or so later, but only needed two treatments. The other dog got it too, but again only one or two treatments needed.

Just a caution about agility. Personally I won't be putting my Border Collie on any obstacles - other than the flexi tunnel - until he's over 12 months. The weavers, if you're going to do them properly, put a lot of strain on a pup's spine, so many top trainers leave those till 13/14 months - and that's with BCs. That said - there's heaps of preparatory flat work you can do while the pup is growing, so that they have really good focus and teamwork, they learn to follow your body, learn to target, and do plank work, rear end awareness work (especially important for larger breeds), and jump preparation, using speed humps (half large diameter PVC pipes. I'm trying to mix and match with my 7 month old boy - we probably do a couple of long walks a week - mixture of bitumen and soft surface and stoney bush tracks. Then we have shorter walks, and some free running in off leash areas. (But I tend to be ultra onservative, as I plan to be still doing stuff with my dogs until they're 12 or so - like I did with a previous BC.)