Tassie

I love my Kong Wubba friends for this. Heavy enough to throw a reasonable distance, but still a tug toy - and they squeak - my guys find thes super exciting. And totally agree with Vickie - in training the agility go on, you really need to be able to throw the reward, to make it quite clear to the dog exactly when the right thing has been done, and reward as quickly as possible, even though you're still catching up to play tug - to me, that best mimics the closing sequence scenario at an agility trial. Teaching an obedience sendaway, on the other hand is a different proposition, because the dog is being sent to a particular place, and expected to stay there until further command. Then I would use a stationary target.

Thanks for that link JulesP.

Very special, Vickie.

Cool! I've tried to get to WA a couple of times but something always goes wrong, like airlines going bankrupt! Let me know next time you book to go anywhere by plane, Jules. And you know you can drive to WA The dogs would enjoy the trip.

+1

Ptolomy - now why didn't you have that package going in April/May last year,

There are a lot of us about. I agree - once you 'get it' - which took me a little while, I must admit, but then I'm unco, you can quite quickly move this one into a nice stationary heel position - and you're starting the rear-end awareness process as an incidental.Mary used to have us get the dog into position - reward, then step to the right to a 90 degree angle from the dog, and repeat the process. Doing this you can quite quickly progress to less exaggerated movements and to the one step away that huski's after.

I was thinking it's easier to get one person across Bass Strait, than people and dogs. And a little side trip to the Apple Isle can only be a good thing.

Damn! Thanks for asking. JulesP - bet you and I were having the same thoughts.

Agree. I first learnt this one with Mary Ray at Camp Tailwaggers. The reason she takes the left leg back (*slightly in line behind the right) for the first few, is to get the people to take the dog well back, so that they can be coming up alongside in a straight line, - otherwise, they tend to come in to position at an angle - therefore head in position but bum out. The mark point (clicker or verbal) is at the back of the teardrop, as the dog's butt moves to bring it into line Then the reward is delivered with the left hand, when the dog is in position. When teaching find heel this way, Mary doesn't fuss at first whether dog is standing or sitting at that ppoint, as long as boody is parallel to handler. and dog is in position. If you can muster enough phone books or small steps/boxes of some knd, you can do perch work/rear-end awareness with multiple dogs, but it's harder. I've done it in a puppy class - had 3 phone books out as one of a number of 'stations'. Would prefer something a bit less slippy.

Jigsaw Just got the flyer from Sam. And yes - all working spots taken but there are still plenty of observer spots.

That's OK Ptolomy - go ahead and rub it in. After all, I can still 'channel' you when I'm heeling with Rory

Will you WA guys jsut stop rubbing it in. The phrase NOT FAIR springs to mind - and yes, I am shouting. @JulesP - it's only about 4 hours from you if you go up the back way . @Sue & Cindy - if it's the Albury and Border KC, they don't seem to ahve a website, but the phone number appears to be Eames Street Albury 2640 (02) 6041 5395 You could always try ruiging there if Jigsaw doesn't get back to you.

I'm in merbein close to mildura. So i'm not close to albury at all i'm afraid. Depends how you define 'close' I drove from Hobart to Tweed Heads to go to a seminar with Sue H at Camp Tailwaggers - mind you, it was a 4-day camp.

Hang in there Joelle! It is incredibly hard - especially watching the kids go through this - but I love that they're doing things like painting a cross for Jakey. Some people have reported that it has helped their kids to make up photo books, or little videos to commemmorate their pets. And don't feel bad about the tears - it just shows what a lovely family you are and how special Jakey was. And be prepared for the tears to still come even years later - especially when you hear about similar stories.

Well worth a drive!

So very sorry to hear that. But please don't second guess yourself anyway. I lost my dear Fergus (6 year old BC ) to an accidental poisoning a couple of years ago - I think from eating dahlia tubers, which according to the internet are not listed as poisonous. It was such a shock, so I can guess how you are feeling - and I only had myself to worry about. Take good care of yourself and your son - and know that you have lots of cyber support here. It does help.

It depends on the poison AFAIK. 1080 is definitely a secondary poison, and I believe some forms of rat pooison are too. If it were my dog, I would be definitely ringing the vet at the very least - and trying to find out what poiison had been used and when.

The Tasmanian Dog Control Act says : Which should stop people using flexis on a road - but ..... There's also Hmmm yes, effective control is certainly not age-dependent - saw a male GSD dragging his adult (slim) owner about 50 metres across the oval to try to get at another dog ;) - he was on an ordinary lead, but she was holding it right at the handle end.

;) Only on a dog forum! Edited because fingers raced brain LOL

Definitely not alone - there's even a fancy name for it - coprophagia. But I'd definitely be doing what I could to discourage her eating her own (pineapple like oakway says is supposed to work), but also interrupts and rapid clean up. Having said that, my two - my bitch in particular, loves kitty crunchies - in fact she doesn't wait for them to become crunchy. The poor cat gets followed down to her favourite toileting spots sometimes ..

;) That's lovely! and to the lovely Emmy

Poor pupper. Following on from what you said about him suddenly seeming better when he goes to the vet (like humans and the dentist ) - can you do a bit of videoing of the stifness etc you're seeing at hoje - maybe on your phone or ipod or something - then you can show the vet - in case the boy is all perky when you go. And best wishes toyou both.

LOL you'd probably have a heart attack if you came to one of my classes, I love to demonstrate the difference between being boring and having a party with your dog to our poor first nighters hehe! Don't worry about what other people think - do what works best for your dog. I am CONSTANTLY making an idiot out of myself and my dog loves it! Hell yes! I'm known to squeal and roll around on the ground with my dog when she's been exceptionally good, or turn into a "monster" and chase her around (she loves that). Even when you tug, you have to put effort in & look like you're having a great time. Boring is bad! ;) It's nothing to do with how you hold your hands. Be exciting! If you don't look excited, why would your dog be excited? Lot more of reinforcement, and often. If the dog's not excited for the reward, don't progress until it is - or you won't get the results you want. Make her hungry before training, get a super tasty reward food, & deliver it with animation & prey movements & excited praise. When you have excitement for the reward, I'd be getting the dog to sit in heel position, or just do one step with me, and then release & reward. If you can't get the level of animation you're after simply sitting at heel, you won't get it while you're walking either. The suggestion to train with more experienced people is also a great one. Perhaps attending a class in clicker training would help you? & thanks, OSoSwift! +1 ;) @ the 'being exciting' - one of the key lessons I give in my baby puppy class. Last week I told them something like "If other people don't think you're acting like an idiot, then you're not really trying" It's so hard to get people to be willing to party and have fun with their dog. I suspect it's one of the hangovers forom older methods of training, when it was all terribly 'serious'

Our club trains on a public oval, which other dogs have access to. We require proof of 2nd vacc for puppies - which, depending on the vaccine, makes them 12 weeks (or 10 weeks) minimum. We recognize the risks, and we explain them to the people - but for the most part they are taking puppies out anyway. So far, we have been lucky in not having had major parvo outbreaks in our area - and our various vets are pretty comfortable with our decisions. We would have to re-think in the short term in the event of a major outbreak. One thing to take into consideration is that if there is parvo around, owners and visitors can always bring it into their house and yard anyway. It really can be a lose-lose situation. - not sure that there is any completely 'right' solution.