tyra20007

It is not at all normal for a dog to be still teething at one year of age! An informative website states the following: Like us, dogs will have two sets of teeth in their lifetime-baby teeth and permanent adult teeth. Their baby teeth, number 28 and erupt through the gums when the dog is between three and six weeks old. The dog will shed its baby teeth and its permanent adult teeth will come in between two and eight months of age. While there is some variation between breeds, most adult dogs have 42 teeth. Incisors come in first, then canines (fangs), and then the dogs’ premolars. The molars come in last at about six or seven months. Reasons for it still being an issue could be that the dog is a badly bred x breed and no care has been taken by the breeder to check for any health issues with either parent. I would think a complete check up with your vet will confirm if there are any problems with the teething or if it is something else.

Regarding feeding grain & BARF Vs Raw - this is something I obviously feel strongly about I am a strict BARF feeder and believe that a dog needs to have balance when being fed raw. I think that a percentage of vegetables and grain is essential. If you are working on the prey predication then it would mimic the dog eating the stomach contents of small animals such as rabbits whom eat grasses and grains, some people argue that a dog discards the stomach but there are arguments for and against everything when it comes to feeding raw. I make a mix of beef mince, minced chicken frames, selective minced offal with a soaked (fermented) mix of the Vets All Natural which adds some whole grain to the diet - this does not get totally digested, instead it stimulates and cleans the intestines and stimulates anal glands, feeding only protein can clag up on the walls and possibly cause problems later in life. I of course feed a lot of raw meaty bones and all my bones and meat are human grade as pet mince can be very much inferior IMO Info on Vets All Natural: http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/PDFS/CMIX.pdf My dogs also get a live yogurt a couple of times a week and an egg on other days 2 a week each - I have 2 Dobermann so feed these according to weight of dog obviously. Mine get raw grated vegetables in the mix and plenty of fruit whenever it is available apple, melons, berries even oranges (sadly I cannot eat any fruit without 2 pools of drool appearing on my lap as my 2 both adore all fruit & it has never done them any harm) in the wild a dog would happily eat berries from a bush as fresh prey is not a daily occurrence, also dogs will eat grass for many reasons to help digestion and for their gut as well as eating dirt to search for minerals to supplement - animals do eat holistically and instinct tells them what they need. I also add the following supplements to my dogs diets and they do really well on this: http://www.greenpet.com.au/pet-shop/cart.p...;category_id=74 This is for misc greens. http://www.greenpet.com.au/pet-shop/cart.p...;category_id=76 A great Omega 3 Blend Oil http://www.petpepup.com.au/ingredients/ This is a probiotic good to keeping the gut in balance to aid digestion. Information of the BARF diet http://www.barfworld.com/index.shtml I am more than happy to give out any information and answer any questions as I fully support people feeding raw (feel free to PM me)- although I personally do not agree with the Prey model when they do not believe in veges/grains/fruits.. but raw is better than processed any day in my opinion.. (some people around here consider me to be a BARF Nazi LOL - Happy to wear that badge as my dogs are the proof that what I do is working very well thank you very much & the people I have helped to convert from processed to BARF would also attest to this - so Whatever LOL )

I am a strict BARF feeder and believe that a dog needs to have balance when being fed raw. I think that a percentage of vegetables and grain is essential. If you are working on the prey predication then it would mimic the dog eating the stomach contents of small animals such as rabbits who eat grasses and grains, some people argue that a dog discards the stomach but there are arguments for and against everything when it comes to feeding raw. I make a mix of beef mince, minced chicken frames, selective minced offal with a soaked (fermented) mix of the Vets All Natural which adds some whole grain to the diet - this does not get digested instead it stimulates and cleans the intestines and stimulates anal glands, feeding only protein can clag up on the walls and possibly cause problems later in life. I of course feed a lot of raw meaty bones and all my bones and meat are human grade as pet mince can be very much inferior IMO Info on Vets All Natural http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/PDFS/CMIX.pdf My dogs also get a live yogurt a couple of times a week and an egg on on other days 2 a week each - I have Dobermann so feed these according to wight of dog obviously. Mine get raw grated vegetables in the mix and plenty of fruit whenever it is available apple, melons, berries even oranges (sadly I cannot eat any fruit without 2 pools of drool appearing on my lap as my 2 both adore all fruit & it has never done them any harm) in the wild a dog would happily eat berries from a bush as fresh prey is not a daily occurance, also dogs will eat grass for many reasons to help digestion and for their gut as well as eating dirt to search for minerals to supplement - they do eat holistically and instinct tells them what they need. I also add the following supplements to my dogs diets and they do really well on this: http://www.greenpet.com.au/pet-shop/cart.p...;category_id=74 This is for misc greens. http://www.greenpet.com.au/pet-shop/cart.p...;category_id=76 A great Omega 3 Blend Oil http://www.petpepup.com.au/ingredients/ This is a probiotic good to keeping the gut in balance to aid digestion. Information of the BARF diet http://www.barfworld.com/index.shtml http://www.njboxers.com/faqs.htm I am more than happy to give out any information and answer any questions as I fully support people feeding raw (feel free to PM me)- although I personally do not agree with the Prey model when they do not believe in veges/grains/fruits.. but raw is better than processed any day in my opinion.. (warning people around here consider me to be a BARF Nazi LOL - Happy to wear that badge as my dogs are the proof that what I do is working very well thank you very much & the people I have helped to convert from processed to BARF would also atest to this - so Whatever LOL)

oh Tyra, those look divine. Since it's a bottomless box and one can't gain weight in this waiting room, I think I'll have one of each I bags the jelly bean ones Er.... what about teeth? Can they rot here???? Oh I forgot to mention they are completely teeth friendly too :D so no fear of rot LOL PS White Sheperd mom - I would highly recommend the one of each approach too - nothing nicer than a nice cup of tea and a cupcake or 12 :p Gosh I hope Jane can feel the love (& smell the delicious goodies like cupcakes & lasagne) from this waiting room everyone that is here in print and in spirit is here for the same reason & the love and thoughts of healing for Jane are just so immense :) for you all

Afternoon waiting room peoples Here are some low fat, super healthy cupcakes for everyone to enjoy The box is magically bottomless so there will always be cupcakes fresh and delicious - so when Jane is up to it she too can join us all and have a cupcake of her own Best wishes Jane - so glad to hear that you are taking those baby steps on the way to recovering fully. Thank you Toohey and all those who are tending to Jane's furbabies - you are all worth your weight in gold ;)

As for where to buy it (sorry missed that bit ;) ) I searched the various tool places online & then printed off that price, took it to bunnings & they bettered it every bit helps. Bunnings has all the range there so you can get an idea of what works well for you ergonomically.

I have the lithium Ion rechargeable cordless model - almost top of the range but the reasons I like it are: Battery memory better as you can charge it any time and not affect the life of the battery & it stays charged for longer. Better speed variable settings so you can easily find the one that is just right for your dog. Less vibration than some models. I use the standard sandpaper barrel that comes with the unit - I find it doesnt heat up quickly and doesnt take too much off too fast. Overall I highly recommend a Dremel. Also here is a link to Dremelling your dogs nails easily. It is for Dobermanns but any nail can be cut the same way http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html Happy Dremelling

I would much prefer to titre test annually than just immunise. Please let us know where is Pennant Hills and I will check to see if you have allocated a day & come get mine done. Thanks for the heads up

Have you thought about having some offal in the mix I use 35% human grade Beef Mince 35% minced chicken frames 20% minced or chopped offal (lamb liver / brains / kidney) 10% Soaked Vets All Natural I mix this up and freeze in individual portions - thenn add grated carrot/ zuchinni/ apple I also add supplements to this diet: An omega 3 oil mix A tsp of Pet Pep Up A desert spoon of a green mix essentials + a salmon oil capsule daily a fresh sardine daily Mine get RMB daily for breakfast - I avoid sharp splintery bones like lamb shanks and large weight bearing beef bones. Best Bones are lamb - neck/breast/chine beef - chuck (spine bone) twice a week as a toothbrush bone All you need is a to do a little bit of fine tuning to get the diet balanced At least you are happy to put the time in to get it right Well Done

Agree with the Paw Paw Ointment - very good product. If it is very infected there is another product called Medi-Honey which I have found works really well on dry skin infections and lick granulanomas (Spelling Bad - sorry!) But Paw Paw is awesome - always have a tube & tub somewhere close by Have you got a raised dog bed on the concrete? I know some dogs love to just lie on concrete & then there isn't much you can do. Good Luck

I find tablets simple - i buy the 97% fat free Hans hot dogs and cut a small section off and stuff the tablet in - dog thinks it is a treat - Easy Even though I am a strict BARF feeder - this little treat is like the junk food for the day & sadly they love it - like a kid with Maccas LOL Mind you my bitch will eat any tablet without the need for a hot dog wrapping - eats all her salmon oil & even the glucosamines - Love Her - So Easy! I like the sound of the flavoured gel caps - that is a cool concept.

I always use greenpet.com.au for all my supplements - ordering online is so easy. One stop shopping. They have a liquid seaweed supplement NATRAKELP 1 litre $24.50 Description Is 100% pure organic seaweed. One of nature’s most mineral rich plants. Easily digested and assimilated, this product is rich in minerals, vitamins, amino acids and trace elements. Animals have always sought out seaweed for its health giving nutrients going so far as grazing these plants in salt water. An excellent food supplement for horses, cows, sheep, goat’s, pigs, poultry, dogs and cats. It can easily be added to food or water supply. Hope that helps

perhaps those looking for raw food providers should go to a topic that has been "pinned" to make it easy to keep all the information in one place. http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=156406

Ohhhh sorry to go off topic! Well I was amazed that you didn't find anything disturbing about the information I posted. I particularly found most of it disturbing and it completely reinforced why I would never trust anything that wasn't human grade. Why is it that the Great Dane breed seems so susseptable to allergies? Have you had the dogs tested for allergies? I noted with interest when I received my shipment of supplements today that the company I get these supplements from (Greenpet.com.au) does a compatibilty allergen test from dog fur/hair sample which tests for food and other common allergens for $127.

OK then - if you are happy to feed your dogs fallen stock, great! You've got lucky dogs! Yes mostly, except for the line that I put in bold which related to raw meat! Reasons to worry:- Basically these are "standards" that may or may not be followed by a producer. who is the person doing the health inspection? An employee of the producer. Just my opinion, but if even the RSPCA advises to buy human grade meat then that should get you thinking.

From the RSPCA website: http://kb.rspca.org.au/Is-the-pet-food-ind...tralia_306.html Is the pet food industry regulated in Australia? Article ID: 306 The Australian Pet Food Industry is currently self-regulated via the Pet Food Industry Association of Australia. The Industry sets its own standards using a voluntary code of practice. RSPCA Australia considers companion animal nutrition to be one of the most important aspects of pet care. Therefore, RSPCA Australia advocates the comprehensive regulation of the Pet Food Industry along the entire supply chain. This should include independent pet food safety assessments to remove any conflicts of interest; and the reliable and accurate labelling of pet food products to inform pet owners about any ingredients and/or treatments pet food products may have been subjected to. Specific areas of concern include: •The lack of legislative control over what is incorporated into pet food, and in particular, whether preservatives are added (the controls over the use of preservatives for humans are much stricter than for animal food) •The lack of any legal requirement for full and accurate labelling of the ingredients in pet food - for many pet foods, the only labelling of ingredients provided is the minimum analysis which covers the percentage of crude protein, fat, fibre, moisture and salt. Listing other ingredients (including preservatives) is optional. Where there is no full ingredient list, owners are unable to make informed decisions regarding the contents and safety of the product •The lack of regulation for accurate labelling to inform owners of any treatments the product may have been subjected to (eg gamma irradiation for quarantine purposes) •The lack of independent and compulsory safety assessments for both imported and domestic pet food products. Two recent issues highlighted the need for more stringent regulations with regard to product safety standards: the irradiation of imported Orijen pet food has been linked to severe feline neurological disease with a number of cats dying or being euthanased; and imported Kramar chicken jerky treats the ingestion of which has been associated with serious kidney disease in dogs, particularly small breed dogs. If you are concerned about the lack of regulation of the pet food industry we suggest you contact your local MP to express these concerns. Please see the attached article " How can I lobby government to improve animal welfare?" for further information. If you are concerned about what you should feed your pet dog or cat (or other animal) the following precautions may be taken: •Choose high quality commercial foods that include a full list of ingredients on the packaging. You may wish to contact the company directly to enquire about the ingredients including the addition of any preservatives and /or treatments that may have been applied to the product eg irradiation •Only feed raw meat/meat products that are labelled for human consumption - you may wish to obtain meat products from your local butcher, where appropriate legislation usually affords protection against the use of preservatives in human-grade meat products •Feed a varied diet Articles of interest 1.Thiamine deficiency due to sulphur dioxide preservative in ‘pet meat’– a case of d�j� vu Australian Veterinary Journal Volume 83, No 7, July 2005 2.Leukoencephalomyelopathy in Specific Pathogen-free Cats Vet Pathol 44:912-916 (2007) 3.Effects of Gamma Irradiation and Pasteurization on the Nutritive Composition of Commercially Available Animal Diets Journal of the American Association of Laboratory Animal Science Volume 47, Number 6, November 2008 , pp. 61-66(6)

Do you have any further info on that? Like I said, AFAIK there are regulations that have to be adhered to, and free of parasites is one of them. If there are abbatoirs not sticking to the regulations maybe someone should dob them in. I think there might be complications with the bunny thing wrt land zoning? I'm sure I read about this one time. I guess a lot of reptile owners breed their own rats etc. There might be animal ethics issues as well. SAS sorry for totally going off topic - FYI my butcher is getting info and prices on goat & bunny - will have it tomorrow (THURS) OK for Corvus & all the people that think "pet food" is no different to human grade - here are a few disturbing quotes from the standard. 5.1 Pet meat raw material shall be sourced from: (a) animals slaughtered at an abattoir or poultry abattoir and passed as fit for human consumption (b) animals slaughtered at an abattoir or poultry abattoir and determined in whole or part by an inspector to be suitable for pet meat © animals processed at a knackery (d) game animals passed as fit for human consumption (e) wild animals harvested in the field (f) fallen stock, where permitted by a controlling authority (g) field-dressed carcases of large, feral animals where permitted by a controlling authority. 6.10.1 Fallen stock may only be processed in accordance with the approval of the relevant controlling authority. 6.10.2 Carcases shall be inspected before processing and any carcases observed to have any infectious disease or abnormal condition which may render the carcase unfit for pet meat shall be directed for rendering or other approved method of treatment. 6.10.3 Carcases of fallen stock shall all be protected from contamination and deterioration by whatever means is necessary to maintain standards of hygiene during holding and transport before their arrival at a knackery. 6.10.4 Carcases of fallen stock must be processed within a suitable time after death to avoid putrefaction. The above extracts were taken from the CSIRO - standards for raw pet meat in Australia The Appendix B Post-mortem observations and dispositions is reason enough for me to never feed Pet Grade meats http://www.publish.csiro.au/Books/download.cfm?ID=6180 (INTERESTING READING!) A very disturbing PDF for people who insist that feeding their dog dried/processed food is a "great diet" is found here: Produced By the Pet Food Industry Assoc of Aust http://www.pfiaa.com.au/site/files/ul/data_text30/442896.pdf Just my opinion but I do not find ANY LEVELS OF MELAMINE (2.5ppm) Acceptable!!!

Lamb neck can be good and consumed completely so nothing left to bury Lamb briskit of breast flaps are great and you can get the butcher to cut them into appropriate sizes. Lamb Chine bone is great and not too fatty a it is the spine bone. I avoid the big marrow bones because they can wear out the teeth if left with the dog for very long periods + there is something to bury. My favourite teeth cleaning bone is a beef chuck bone as it has lots of angles and is a good challenge.. I take away whatever is left after an hour or 2 so it doesn't get buried for later LOL The only bones I really avoid are pork bones as they seem very sharp and brittle. 3-4 times a week is better than nothing, I give my 2 dobes bones for breakfast every day and there BARF mince mix for dinner.

Whoa, hold your horses. AFAIK that is actually not true. Before I went raw I spent some time researching the meat industry and the requirements for carcasses bound for pet consumption in NSW. Unless things have changed dramatically in the last few years, carcasses with parasites are wholly condemned, as in thrown out. You can't even use the parts that aren't affected, which is perfectly safe. They also can't sell discoloured meat as pet food, regardless of the reason for the discolouration. And they can't use anything that wasn't slaughtered at at the abbatior by the staff there. From what I could gather, the standard for meat for pet food consumption is still quite high. It is not safe for humans to eat and is processed at separate abbatoirs and stored in separate compounds and transported in separate trucks etc, but IMO the only dodgy thing about it is it sometimes hasn't been bled as thoroughly. Sometimes. Depending who you get it from. I get wings from Cliff at Just Food 4 Dogs and I honestly think the only thing wrong with them is that they are often broken or undersized. Mince for pets is different to human grade mince in that it can contain all sorts of bits and pieces from the animal. That's all. If you buy it from the shops, it may have been treated with preservatives, and they are often a kind that is banned for use in human grade food. That's the only thing you have to be careful of to my knowledge. By all means correct me if I'm wrong. Sorry I can't be of further help to the OP. I sent emails to a few game meat providers around Sydney a while ago and no one ever got back to me. I've only seen goat in Woolworths occasionally. It wasn't terribly expensive for forequarter pieces, but my dogs didn't like it anyway. It's easier to get game meats at Woolworths stores in the city. What about fish? ETA I remember seeing goat at a butcher in Hurstville, now that I think about it. Having visited a couple of "pet food" abbatoirs there is no comparison to human grade. The animals they use are old (diseased, dying) also there is not the refrigeration standards that compare to human abbatoirs. It was a disturbing experience indeed. I have been warned against pet grade kangaroo as it can have parasites as there is no health checks for pet grade food. I simply stick to my meat from my butcher who does not use all the antibiotic steroid meats that woolworths & coles seem to favour. SAS - I have asked my local butcher if he can get goat in & what prices it would be - will let you know tomorrow. I have 2 Dobes to feed and understand that the cost of feeding raw natural can be a little costly but I have managed to get mine down to about $5per day per dog for dinner mince mix (which includes VAN & quite a few supplements) + about $2 per day in bones from the butcher, but I do spoil mine a bit - also thankfully (touch wood) I have not had to deal with any allergies with my dobes, previously had a very sensitive kelpie that drove me nuts with allergies.

Personally I do not buy "pet grade" food for my dogs BARF diet. Meat that is suitable for pets is a long way from being suitable for human consumption. It is allowed to contain parasites and is not subject to that same health regulations that is enforced for human grade meat. I befriend my local butcher and get a "reasonable" price for all the items I need. "Pet Food" prices are not worth it in the end for me or my dogs. If you want to feed raw on a budget then buying minced chicken frames in bulk can go as low as 50c per kilo. Otherwise Lenards Chicken shops sell minced chicken frames for $1.50 and it is readily available. PS: Nice avatar sas

Nothing beats a good bone try a bone that is totally consumable like lamb neck or lamb brisket. My favourite bone which I call the toothbrush bone is a beef chuck - there are soooo many angles that they really have to chew from all directions to get the meat & it really cleans all the back and front teeth. The only teeth I find hardish to get clean are the canines - which I scrape gently once a month to keep them at their best. I personally would never use a toothpaste. With 2 dogs on a total BARF diet and bones every day, there really is no need for any toothpaste.

I swear by RepelX Have used it on many dogs and also on the entrances to firends kennels and it works a treat.

I have helped a couple of dogs with massive food allergies with a balanced BARF diet. One of the dogs had thick black skin on it's back with no fur at all and within 3 months there was no sign of any of the thickened skin and the fur grew back well. The other was constantly itchy and couldn't stop rubbing and scratching. I add supplements to their diet as well like a good omega 3 oil blend and adding Pet Pep Up which is like a probiotic for the gut. If you would like me to send you an outline of the diet, PM me with an email address and I can send it through. I hope all goes well with everything.

I have the lithium-Ion one and find it fantastic, the battery has a good life once charged and no cord to get in the way. I just use the standard sandpaper barrel attachment that comes with it and it lasts well. It has multiple speeds and I find that 3-4 is enough to do the job without getting hot too quickly (the faster the speed the faster the nail gets hot) witht he Lithium you can top up the charge anytime compared to standard battery which should be run down to flat before re-charging as the battery has a memory and charging it too much or leaving it on charge can affect the battery memory. The good thing about getting a "proper" dremel compared to the "pet" version is it is a very handy tool for many little jobs.

I guess because the conditions state the there must be "provision for" an undercover area, they have to cater to indoors because with all the organisation and decorating of the ring the last thing they want to do is change from outdoors to indoors due to the weather and have to rush in from the rain and have the indoor arena not as ready as outdoors. I am just guessing, but I guess they have to cater to "Murphy's Law" and don't trust that Mother Nature will be kind on the day (she is an unpredicatable B**ch at the best of times LOL)