chris.p.day

When we stayed up near there for a couple of weeks, our dog stayed at Tarraray out at Bonville, they also show Belgian Shepherds. They may be able to help you out. www.tarraray.com.au

Do you mean if you walk him to the park he just sits there once you get to the park, or he refuses to walk altogether? Since he is so young, if you walk him to the park, he may be buggered by the time you get there are just want to flop down and do nothing. With our Cocker we drive to the park (about a 20 minute walk there), when we first arrive there is a burst of energy for 5 minutes playing and sniffing and running around saying hello Then, unless we walk around the park, there is 15 minutes of laying down and watching the world. Then we get 5 minutes of playing again, then 15 minutes of nothing, etc, etc. Not sure how long you stay at the park after the walk there, but it may just be that Rodney has decided he has done enough for little bit and it's time to rest! You could try going for a slow stroll (slow enough for puppy to walk) and he may be happy to wander along with you, othewise try waiting 15-20 minutes and the batteries may be recharged. Also if he is going through a fear period, may be best to keep him at home for a week and just play fetch and do training. Great time to work on loose leash walking with no distractions. And I don't think 10 minute walks around the block are going to do much harm

We have a cocker and we wiped her ears with a moistened makeup remover pad and when we went to see the vet recently we were told she was a little yeasty in one ear and to wipe her ears with just the dry pad.

Most cameras you can pop the flash up and it will strobe to get a focus lock, then you can put it back down to take the photo. Easier than carrying a flash light around! This may not help if you are focusing on something outside of the range of the flash.

You would use the spot metering to take the picture. That's why the AE lock button (*) is useful. Most cameras, once you get a focus lock, will still evaluate the exposure until you fully press the shutter. This can be a problem if the camera is pointing at something bright (or dark) but it is not your subject Eg. scene is person next to a window with light streaming through, you want to frame so window is centre right of frame and person is on the left. You want to expose correctly for the person. You compose and take picture and find the person is woefully underexposed but the window is exposed just fine! So then you point your camera at the person, get an exposure lock (and most likely a focus lock as well) then recompose with window in the centre-right then take the picture, the person is better but still a little under-exposed. So then you change to spot-metering from evaulative (or even centre-weighted) and do the same as above and finally the person comes out perfectly exposed!

Can you get the aperture (f number) and shutter speed from the different photos? (since they should all be iso 200) Some cameras metering can be confused if there is a particularly bright light source in the frame or just out of it, causing the camera to over or under-expose. You can play with the different metering options to see which one works best in different situations.

This is called Exposure Locking (or AE lock), this can be useful when the thing you want to focus on may not provide the best exposure information for the rest of the scene. Usually for most cameras you can hold the AE lock button (usually the *) then recompose for the focus, half-press shutter for the focus lock, then recompose then full press of shutter to take photo. I've used this when taking sunset shots at the beach looking into the sun, point the camera along the beach for exposure lock, point at waters edge for focus lock, then point at setting sun to take photo. The exposure lock can become more important when using spot metering rather than center-weighted or matrix metering. Spot metering is useful when taking pictures of a person you can spot meter and focus on their face then recompose.

When I started feeding raw, I nearly the mistake of not swapping the chicken necks for wings as she got older and also a good idea is to give it to them directly from the freezer, otherwise they may choke on it because they try to eat it too quick or it's a bit too small so they try to swallow it whole. And our pup doesn't seem to have a problem eating it when it's still frozen, even when it's cold! Just holds it in her paws and munches away, looks pretty cute

I think the only thing I can add is the usually stated purpose of B&W and why photo's can look so much better in B&W! B&W is used when you would like to bring out the texture of something, so in this photo the first thing you look at is the hair (fantastic texture) which draws your eyes down the photo, you can't see the eyes, so you keep moving down the photo, then BANG! the sunlight on the shoulder...this draws you into the photo and into the world of the photo. Where was he sitting? What is he looking at? Because it's in B&W you can remove some of the distractions (like bokeh is used to remove distractions from the background). Eg. imagine the wall behind him was painted a garish pink colour, B&W instantly removes that distraction! I'm probably talking out of my bum...but hopefully it explains something.

I've been (forever) planning to get the Canon IXUS waterproof housing for scuba diving, they go down to 40 metres, so unless you are a tech diver I doubt you'll need to worry about going past your limit with that. You can pick up the IXUS cameras pretty cheap, range from about $125ish up to $500, but the housing is about $300(!). The pictures that come out should be pretty good, and the newer IXUS's even have an underwater mode to set the right white balance, flash exposure, etc.

A lot is explained by looking at Darwin's theory of evolution, if there is a survival niche then an organism will grow to fill it. The wolf - Europe and North America don't have big cats, so you get these big dogs who "pack" together to fufill the "bring down the large herbivores" niche (deer, cows etc), crows (as one eg.) fill the scavenger niche The hyena - Africa has large cats to fill the "bring down the large herbivores" niche, so hyenas fill the scavenger niche How would it play out if humans were suddenly not to exist? Well it would depend on the environment and what niches are available to fill. That's only one half though...if dogs (wolves) originally packed (to bring down large game), what do they do now? Indeed they scavenge (wait to be fed ) But now the primary thing is the social side of things, just like physiology gets shaped by evolution (sharp claws, big teeth!), there are social behaviours that also get shaped along the way. I have seen no arguments (from Kelpie's source) to suggest how social behaviours in dogs have evolved, or even if they have altered in any significant way. Scientifically "packing" may only refer to the hunt, but there is a reason why most people think of "packing" as the social interaction as well. Whilst hunting may have gone by the wayside the social side of things may still be in full force within dogs, and studying how dogs work within the social hierarchy is more important than the the change from hunting to scavenging (IMVHO) Cheers, Chris

Hi, Not sure if you are still thinking about lenses, but I would definitely look at the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8, this lens is razor sharp throughout the focal range and only costs about $550-600, not as cheap as the Nikkor 50mm 1.8, but a lot more versatile and only a smidgen less sharp at 50mm. You can check out the review at photozone (good site for lens reviews) http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-...-report--review I'm sure other people may tell you the same thing, but it's better to keep your body and invest in good glass! Cheers, Chris ps. If you are looking for a store Dirt Cheap Cameras is pretty good http://www.dirtcheapcameras.com.au/sp-af17...-if-p-1245.html

f/4.5 1/1000sec ISO 100 Focal length 100mm Easiest way to get this information is to right-click on the picture in Windows Explorer, click "Properties" then go to "Details" tab.

There is also the SABTC, they are in Strathfield/Concord near Elizabeth Park. Basic training is Sunday mornings http://www.sabdtc.com/index.html